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brad

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Posts posted by brad

  1. Mallory sold out earlier this year, and is no longer making the Studebaker distributors for Dave Thibeault.

    Dave does have a Mallory Unilite conversion for a Prestolite distributor, that he is now selling.

    I never was impressed with the Unilite setup, from way back. the grease and oil in the engine compartment can coat the lens of the optics in the pickup assembly, rendering them useless.

    You can dunk the Chrysler hall effect pickup in oil, and it would not be effected.

    I like to use the Big Block Chrysler distributor guts with the hall effect pickup, triggering a MSD capacitive box. You get the benefits of stable dwell, and timing, and multiple firing of the plugs below 3000 rpm. (Above 3000 rpm you still get 1 big spark to the plugs). You can then run a much better "E" core coil that saturates much faster than stock, and can deliver 60,000 volts to the plugs.

    Some may say "If it ain't broke don't fix it", but these are the same people that say Studebaker was the "high point" of automotive technology. Believe it or not technology HAS improved in 60 years

  2. Yes, the frame bolts do have to come out. They are 11/16" nuts, and 5/8 bolt heads. The outer end bolts that go through the fiberglass into the bumper also need to be removed. It helps to have something or someone holding up the bumper so it won't drop and scratch the paint. Also loosen the two side bracket adjusting bolts so when you remove the other bolts, it can be removed.

    When you go to put things back together put the frame bolts in, THEN put the side bolts in FINGER TIGHT. Then tighten the side arm adjusting bolts. The reason being is you don't want to draw the bumper bracket along with the fiberglass behind it out to the bumper. By tightening it first, the bumper is drawn into the bracket without any outwards pressure on the fiberglass. The steel bracket takes the force. Of course you will have to add the rubber shims between the bumper and the body.

  3. Ron, yes, I'm aware of the upper control arm bushings. Actually they are a 1951 and 52 stock piece. Studebaker didn't go to rubber bushed uppers until 53. Its on the 'tunneled' upper mounting, and the taller different forging lower outer knuckle that I was saying was extremely rare.

    By the way, I will be up in the northeast the later part of the month for a week or so, in north New Hampshire. My kids and grand kids live there. I am in the process of relocating to be closer to them.

    Don't worry about us and the cold, I met my wife, and we lived in Wyoming for years.

  4. The front suspension also had other changes. King pin, spindle and lower knuckle were also different! Those changes along with the lowered upper control arm mount were Studebaker designed changes not Granetelli designed changes and they all have Studebaker drawing numbers.

    But, I doubt more than two cars utilized them.

  5. The balance tube on the exhaust was a standard feature of the quiet tone exhaust. The added benefit is better scavenging.

    R3 flanged rear axles were NOT the same as regular Studebaker flanged rear axles. The axles themselves were far larger, the bearings were different and were sealed (same as 71 F150). The corresponding outer ends and the backing plate bolts were 1/2" not 3/8.

    One I restored had an oil temperature and fuel pressure gauge on the console. It was plumbed directly off the fuel pump, and fuel went inside the passenger compartment! I corrected that stupid mistake and used a fuel pressure isolator, which uses silicone fluid to transfer pressure.

    I'm helping restore the very first of the nine production R3 Avantis right now.

    Only a few race cars had the inset upper control arm mounts, and some got the modified lower outer trunion mount too.

    I have never seen one on a production car.

    It seems like a lot of the Granetelli modifications were experimental, and kind of like"hey lets try this" tactics. easy to do if it's off a corporate paycheck, and you don't have to pay for broken parts. There was a reason there was no warrantee available on R3 and R4 engines. Sure they put larger intakes, but the exhaust ports are the same. They moved the valves out 1/4" but didn't also move the rocker arms, so the pad hits the stem way off to the side!

  6. I'm rebuilding the supercharger for the #1 R3, and in stripping the case, I noticed the paint color is different than most I have seen.

    It is the original blower and did have the rare full sized elbow still attached!

    Anyways, it's neither the orange of the regular blowers, nor the R3 red. It's more like Porsche Guards Red in color.

    interesting. It had never been repainted.

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