brad

Usually it is the mechanical sweep sticking on the ring magnet inside the tach. You will have to center the magnet, and set it with superglue. Usually they hit around 2500 RPM.

A 67 would be the same as Studebaker versions. The outer rubber is replaceable and slides into the stainless channel. Available from SI. No need to reinvent the wheel.

DO versions were generally yellow. One I had was very clean, but I could see how it would be a problem on neglected maintenance.

I hope Lew sees this, and has his prototype 4 dr shell donated too. That would free up his enclosed trailer.

If you're going to the expense of upgrading to forged pistons, do yourself a favor and upgrade to a modern ring package so you can use thinner low friction rings and/or zero gap 2nd rings.

False. For some reason Avantis used a T-86 threes speed rather than the T-85. The T85 is what became the T-10 with the reverse moved into the tail housing.

They were listed as 1750 stall whereas, Avantis are 2500 ish. I have had Avanti converters made for 3000 rpm stall.

False. GH didn't have a higher stall.

Fuel drains, also the hard lines for fuel and vacuum are hard plumbed without the need for rubber seals.

No, it sold.

Yes, the short block was rebuilt many years ago, but the heads were not done. The last owner had someone do the heads that did not do a good job. Now they are done correctly. new valves, new guides. bronze inserts in the guides, and surfaced the gasket surface .003.

R3SH320 is back together.

Yes, The only thing I like about them is the copper fire ring. The new graphite gaskets seal better. These had no crush or "give" to them, and someone forgot to use tacky copper spray.

There are two studs that pass through a fiberglass piece bonded to the front of the opening. There re two 3/8s nuts securing the door to the stude. Often, they will be rusted, and break off if not careful removing them. use penetrating oil and take it slow. I bent up a long reach box wrench to get on the nuts easier.

The heads had a previous valve job with poor workmanship. The guides were beaten in and all bent on the top, the valves were ground so there was no margin left on the edges. I blended the pockets under the valves as there were sharp edges. Got new guides, and valves. The new guides will be bored out for bronze inserts, and positive stem seals installed. All seat and stem heights matched. Springs shimmed to proper installed height. The shortblock looked great. It was a combination of crappy gas, and poor workmanship that stuck three valves.

Working on the 1st R3 (of the 9) in the shop today. Getting ready for a valve job

I have a couple of those here too. (no brace, and left prop rod)

The custom build I did back in 2016 is up for sale by the owner. Links to the build are here: Blog – Bez Auto Alchemy. He is asking 75K. Serious inquires and I'll forward his contact information.