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IndyJimW

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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. I remember seeing a close-up picture of the right rear corner of a late 80's black Avanti with the lights on. I can't seem to locate it now, does anyone know where I can find a copy?

    Thanks,

    Jim Wood

  2. The inside mirror glass for my '87 was bad, I looked all around for a replacement and couldn't find one so I went down to the local Pull-A-Part and looked in the 80's GM cars until I found one that that was a perfect match down to the mold marks. Cost about 2 bucks and I didn't even have to change the windshield button. Thats if yours is a glue on. :unsure:

    Jim Wood

  3. How dificult was it to install the In tank pump, and where did you get the AVANTI cover for the TPI??

    Charlie

    RQB3921

    Search for my post 'Fuel tank removal' 12/17/10. :excl:

    The TPI cover is a decal I got from Nostalgic Motor Cars that was a replacement for the orginal one on the air filter cover of my 1987. I saw that it was the perfect size for the TPI so I cut most of the black from the decal and used it. :D

    Jim Wood

  4. Well I'm trying to get my HVAC unit out now so that I can replace it with a Vintage Air unit, what a PITA!

    Local dealer has ordered mock-up units for me to try. Will have directions and pictures soon.

    1987 Avanti Coupe

    Jim Wood

  5. Finally found some of the VIN from the donor car, the last 9 digits of the VIN are stamped in the the transmission case on the left rear above the pan. 7HR102501 - The full code would be 1G1GZ11G7HR102501 for the 1987 Monte Carlo SS that was used.

    Also I have found a problem with my Avanti VIN 12AAV1230H1000108, that VIN will not decode. The 9th digit is a 0, this is the check sum digit for the VIN and can't be a 0. It must be 1-9 or X. If I add up the weight of the VIN numbers and letters this number should be a 3. If a 3 is entered in this position then the car WILL show up on the national VIN list.

    Jim Wood

  6. 394927788.jpg

    Hoodliner and Decal installed!!! Picture is not as good as the real thing, my old camera is playing tricks. Decal looks better and no marks on hoodliner left of decal.

    Hoodliner material is great, decal is very nice. The way the material is trimmed by "Gonzo" is rough, I would measure large and cut to size for a better fit. I had measured larger and after looking at the fit decided to cut it back to where the hood is a single thickness of fiberglass. Instructions are very nice. Would highly recommend this product, recieved my hoodliner less then a week from my mailing template. Gonzo should have my template for those interested. Cost for hoodliner, decal and shipping $123.00.

    Gonzo Productions

    http://hoodliners.blogspot.com

    333 S. Dobson St.

    Westland, MI 48186-8405

    tbirddmnd@worldnet.att.net

    734-637-8596

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  7. I ended up replacing the front of the engine with a GM serpentine belt setup. It came with the new style compressor etc. It worked OK but the system doesn't defrost worth a darn. Replacing the HVAC box with an aftermarket is one of my future projects.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

    Sooooo, many years later...... did you ever replace the HVAC monstrousity? Cuz I can't see putting this thing back together as originally designed and built ('88 coupe).

  8. I have a 87 Avanti and it looks like a big PITA, if I had to replace mine I would go with a better aftermarket kit like Vintage Air or Hod Rod Air.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

    Hello everyone, I'm new here. I am in the process of purchasing a 1987 Avanti that needs a heater core and maybe an evaporator. I've read some messages in these forums that are scaring me off. Has anyone sucessfully changed done this or does anyone know a tech in the NY metro area that is capable of it. Thank you in advance

  9. Its time to remove the fuel tank from my ’87 Avanti, my goals are:

    1. Stop gas fumes from getting inside car when the tank is full.

    2. Get my fuel gauge to work correctly.

    3. Replace all 20 year old hoses.

    4. Install a pump in the tank for a TPI engine upgrade.

    I started by draining the fuel tank, you will need to remove the fitting from the bottom of the fuel tank to allow the fuel tank to be removed later, I would install a flush hex head plug to prevent any fuel that is left from spilling out onto the interior when you remove

    the fuel tank. My fitting had a screen and I was glad to see that it was clean. Next remove the front seats, center console and rear seat to give you enough room to move. After removing all the screws that hold the fuel tank cover in place it pried out easily, no sealer was used by the factory on my Avanti. The sound deadening foam had been continued from under the carpeting and glued to the front of the fuel tank.

    393705964.jpg

    Around the fuel tank pink insulation had been installed, it was matted from being wet. I removed all the insulation and cut away the foam that was attached to the fuel tank.

    My stray bolts were rusted so I soaked them down with penetrating oil several times while I worked on other things. Disconnect the wiring from the sending unit and trunk and move it out of the way.

    There are 4 different rubber hoses that go to my fuel tank and all of them were hard to the touch.

    1. Fuel supply hose - At the bottom center of the fuel tank to a line on the frame that goes to the fuel pump. I replaced it when I first got my Avanti because it’s the only one that you can see.

    2. Vent hose – Metal lines attach at the top of both ends of the fuel tank then connect together with hoses and a tee at the center top of fuel tank, the hose then goes out a hole on the drivers side front of fuel tank compartment to a metal line in front of the drivers rear wheel and up to the charcoal canister.

    3. Fuel return hose – Comes from a line connected to the fuel pump and travels down the frame to the front of the passenger rear wheel, a hose connects to this metal line goes into the fuel tank compartment at the passenger front on tank and attaches to a fuel return fitting on the passenger top of fuel tank.

    4. Fuel inlet hose – Large hose from fuel inlet to top on fuel tank. I noticed staining at the top of the tank and assumed it was causes by this hose.

    I disconnected all the hoses and pulled the vent hose and fuel return hose into the fuel tank compartment.

    The vent hose contraption has to be removed from the top of the fuel tank before the fuel tank can be removed. Disconnect the metal tubes from both ends of the fuel tank and then the nuts holding the supports to the studs in the fuel tank; remove all the pieces from the fuel tank compartment.

    Disconnect the fuel return hose from fuel tank fitting and remove.

    Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel tank. You will need to detach it when you remove the fuel tank.

    I cleaned the fuel tank strap nuts and before trying to remove them I coated them with CRC Freeze-Off penetrating oil, both nuts came right off. When trying to remove fuel tank strap nuts, STOP if you see the strap start to turn with the nut, if not you can twist the strap and break it.

    From the outside of the Avanti I removed the fuel cap, leather drip cover and the 5 screws holding the fuel inlet nozzle, pulling up I disconnected the fuel inlet hose from the fuel tank. The fuel tank is then free to remove from the car. I left the straps in the car because I didn’t want to chance breaking them by trying to remove the rear rusted strap nuts.

    393705962.jpg

    With the fuel tank out of the car I examined it for fuel leaks, there had been puddling on the top of the tank at the fuel inlet, but the inlet hose showed no sign of leakage. I made sure I got as much gasoline out of the fuel tank as possible, I then replaced the fittings with plugs, placed a metal plate and gasket over the sending hole and found a ball that would fit the fuel inlet pipe snuggly. I mixed up three gallons of hot water with some degreaser and poured it into the fuel inlet and then sealed it with the ball. Outside on the drive I carefully rolled the fuel tank front to back and end to end, after five minutes of this I removed the ball and the drain plug. I inserted a water hose into the fuel inlet and ran water into the tank for another five minutes. When the water quit draining I removed all of the plugs and the metal plate, I checked all the holes for any gasoline fumes. With all of the plugs removed I inserted into the fuel inlet the hose from my Shop-Vac connected to the exhaust side. I blew air into the tank for an hour to dry out any moisture. I picked up a cheap set of brass wire wheels and used them on my drill to remove loose rust and adhesive from the fuel tank. Because of the rust around the seams I decided that it would be a good thing to have my fuel tank tested for leaks, I installed all the plugs back into the fuel tank and took the tank down to my local radiator shop. After pressurizing the fuel tank they found that the seam were alright, but I had two leaks at soldered joints, the main one was at the base of the fuel inlet pipe and the other was at the fuel return fitting. They soldered the fuel inlet pipe, and removed the fuel return tube (the new TPI pump kit has a new larger fuel return fitting) and soldered a plate over the hole. If I hadn’t pressure tested the fuel tank I would never have found the cause of my gas smell, the solder didn’t look cracked or bad in any way.

    393705951.jpg

    The shiny spot is where the inlet tube was leaking.

    My fuel gauge stopped working correctly and with the fuel tank removed now was the best time to fix it. Make sure that the fuel gauge is powered, fuses good etc. Using the two wires from the sending unit you can test the wiring and gauge. My Steward Warner gauge uses resistance between 33 – 240 Ohms.

    33 ohms across the wires will cause the gauge to read FULL, 240 Ohms across the wires will cause the gauge to read EMPTY. I have a Borroughs BT7707A Instrument Tester to test gauges, but you can accomplish the same thing with resistors from Radio Shack. A pack of 5 resistor costs a dollar. A package of 30 ohm and 250 ohm resistors will allow you to check Full, Empty and if you connect several 30 Ohm resistors together in Serial you can test the gauge midways. My gauge moved from EMPTY to FULL when the proper Ohms were applied to the sending unit wires, so my gauge and wiring were OK. If your gauge still doesn’t work remove the wires from the gauge that goes to the sending unit and connect a resistor to the gauge with short wire leads and test like before, if the gauge works you have a wire problem, if not you need a new gauge.

    Turning my attention to the sending unit I brought out my Ohm meter and tested the sending unit across the connectors, mine showed 0 Ohms. With the gas tank empty my sending unit should show 240 Ohms. I removed the sending unit and with the Ohm meter attached I worked the float up and down, the Ohm meter never moved from 0 Ohms, time for a new sending unit. I purchased a tube type sending unit, with no float arm this would give me space for my in tank fuel pump kit.

    393705955.jpg

    The new tube float is on the left, the old float on the right.

    I am going to install a Chevrolet TPI system in place of my carburetor, this system requires 45 lbs of fuel pressure and since I don’t like frame mounted high pressure fuel pumps I decided to install a Tanks PA-2 Pump Module kit.

    393705947.jpg

    Complete Tanks kit.

    I installed the kit as per the detailed instructions. A compete install can be viewed at –

    http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=324&SID=2

    With the fuel tank clean and all modifications complete I installed all the pipe fittings and replaced the vent tubes with new lines. I recommend a product called GASOILA Thread Sealant, it is a soft set product made for gas and oil pipes, it sets in a day and gives you time to adjust fittings without ruining the seal. I painted the fuel tank with a rust shield paint to stop all current and future rust.

    394093502.jpg

    Before reinstalling the fuel tank I decided to seal and sound insulate the fuel tank compartment. There are two large holes in the rear corners of the fuel compartment on my ’87 Avanti, these measures 2” tall by 4” wide. I used a can of household spray foam to fill these gaps and other holes in the panels for the wiring etc. Using Dynamat I covered the walls of the fuel compartment.

    394093507.jpg

    I will be covering the compartment panel with Dynamat and replacing all the hoses I can with metal line in the fuel tank compartment area.

    Jim Wood

  10. One of the advantages of having the '87 Avanti is it has the Monte Carlo suspension, which is the same as an S-10 pick-up. I picked up a set of 2" drop spindles for an S-10 and dropped my Avanti 2 1/2" at the nose to give me the orginal rake.

    108041594.jpg

    Have no problems with the tires touching the fenders. I also know of 1 Avanti II here in Indiana where the owner machined the king-pins to get the orginal rake.

    Jim Wood

  11. My ’87 Avanti has a gas smell inside the car after filling the fuel tank. I removed the gas tank to make repairs and found stains from fuel on the top of the tank at the fuel inlet. Seeing nothing wrong with the hose, I took the tank to have it tested. The solder was bad around the fuel inlets under side and around the fuel return pipe. I’m replacing the hoses but if I didn’t have the tank tested and repaired I would have had the same problem.

    Jim Wood

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