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Posts posted by IndyJimW
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Here is a picture of one of the holes behind the fuel tank, are these holes normal or should I cover them?
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Needed a new hood liner and found this site,
http://hoodliners.blogspot.com/
I have sent him a template for my '87 Avanti and will post pictures when I get the new liner installed. I also ordered the Avanti decal in red.
JIm Wood
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I am repainting my '87 Avanti and decided to delete the rubber trim that goes around the body for a cleaner look. The rubber trim hides the bolts the hold the sides of the fiberglass bumper to the body. I decided that a 3/8" bumper bolt would sit in the depression and work well. I couldn't find any bolts with chrome covers so I looked on the web and found a company that makes chrome bumper bolts with colored LED's in the center. Their 3/8" bolts aren't long enough but they offered to make some special 3/8" x 2" for me. I recieved two amber and two red bolts for $72.00 with shipping. I am going to wire them into the turn signals and use them as side marker lights. Will post pictures soon.
Jim Wood
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My '87 Avanti sat for a while before I purchased it, when I got it chipmunks had left acorns everywhere in the interior. I just removed the gas tank to replace hoses, fuel sender and to install an in-tank fuel pump for my TPI system. While cleaning up more acorns I came upon two large holes in the body in both corners behind the fuel tank. The panel that separates the trunk from the fuel tank compartment and connects to the fuel tank tray is short about 4" wide by 2" deep. You can see the ground behind the rear wheels from inside the car. Is there a reason for these holes or is this just poor workmanship? There is evidence of water getting in from these holes.
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I have the manual on CD. Also there were no shims between the the door hinge and door panel on my Avanti's door so I had to elongate the holes.
Jim Wood
Before you do anything, get the shop manual. SI and others have it on CD for $20. The in-out adjustment is done with shims between the hinges and hinge mount panels. If adjusting using shims doesn't get you all the way there, then you can consider elongating holes.
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I'm painting my car so I finally got around to adjusting the door. I had to remove the upper hinge and elongate the 4 holes about a 1/4". I was then able to move the door flush at the top.
Jim Wood
The driver’s door, front top will not adjust flush with the fender. It sticks out about 1/4 inch, if I elongate the adjustment holes in the hinge further will I be able to adjust it flush? Has anyone done this?
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To Lew,
Removed the door panel from my '87 Avanti's drivers door and found the initials KLR 8/7/87 written in chalk on the inside panel.
Mike Baker said that you may know something about the builder?
Thanks,
Jim Wood
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Doing some repairs on my '87 Avanti and I'm replacing the door lock actuator's, here is what I found.
Part is from a '87 Monte Carlo.
Chevrolet & AC Delco # 22062740. No bracket. $54.00 - $95.00
Standard Motor Products # DLA1. With bracket and rubber body boot. $76.00 - $157.00
Dorman # 746-014. No bracket comes with rubber body boot. $39.00 - $68.00.
Standard and Dorman come with a nice rubber boot around the body of the actuator, this is not part of the orginal but would be good for keeping out the weather. The bracket is held on with 4 screws so changing it over is easy. I purchased the Dorman for about $39.00.
Jim Wood
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I have an 87' Avanti with the Monte Carlo chassis, I have heard that Avanti redesigned the bottom of the body to mount on the Monte Carlo frame. I havn't compared the two but will look into it the next chance I get.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
I have heard enough about the improved handling and ride performance that is realized on the Avanti equipped with GM's Monte Carlo frame that it has me considering the swap. I have already acquired an original frame to replace the one I have that has rotted through and has only the slightest into of once having hog troughs. What modifications are necessary to a newer, (maybe 88?), Monte frame to make the changeover possible from a 72 to 88 or so. Are there mounting plates to be added, a good deal of welding etc? Has only undertaken this?
Thanks for the help.
Sal
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Take a look at this web page -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html
Good luck
Jim
I have read the thread of Indyjimw's installation of LEDs in his gauges three years ago. LEDs have probably advanced again in the last three years.
I'm desiring to put red LEDs in my VDO cockpit gauges in my Avanti.
These new VDO gauges have indirect side lighting, taking a wedge type bulb. The indirect lighting is like aftermarket Stewart Warner gauges, where the bulb plugs directly in the back of the gauge.
Has anyone done this that would have LED bulb recomendations?
Also, the VDO vacuum gauge because of the mechanical construction has much weaker side illumination than the other electrical gauges perhaps by 1/2. Has anyone overcome this with a specific LED?
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No your '89 does not have hog troughs.
Jim Wood
I have a 1989 beauty. My question is this. Since my frame is a Monte Carlo, (or perhaps a Caprice), do I still have hog troughs? I must admit my ignorance. I really don't know what to look for. Thanks for your help.
JB
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The question came up about the light weight of the Avanti fiberglass body. Several years ago I had my '87 Avanti weighed; adjusting for driver and fuel the dry weight was 3294 lbs. The heaviest dry weight listing that I could find for the '87 Monte Carlo SS that is used for the frame and chassis is 3239 lbs. So my Avanti weights 50 lbs. MORE than the steel bodied Monte Carlo.
The question I have is what is the Dry weight of a '63 Avanti to a similarly equipped '63 Lark?
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My favorite was from a guy at a filling station "Hey, isn't that one of those South Bend hot rods?".
Jim
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I would think the car would likely perform as good or better than the Chevy it's based on...lighter fiberglass (or Kevlar) body compared to the original steel body. I understand the concern regarding the 305 engine compared to a 350, but you have to take into account few cars contemporary to it had any better performance. Today it might seem sluggish by comparison, but that can be taken car of by either an engine transplant or some work on the 305, depending on how it runs now and cost/benefit analysis of building the 305 up vs. a new crate engine.
Hi Gunslinger,
Just for the record I had my '87 Avanti weighted and with the fiberglass body it is 50 lbs. MORE than the Monte Carlo and its steel body. Thats some thick fiberglass.
Jim
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I'll be looking at an 88 Avanti later this week. I know it does not have hog troughs but is mounted on a full Chevy frame. Does this in any way compromise the handling characteristics, ride, steer etc. It has a 305 rather than the 350 I would prefer. Should I expect noticeably different acceleration, top end etc? How is this year production viewed compared to older or more recent models/
Thanks, Sal
I have a 87 Avanti, they don't have hog troughs and the handling is much better then the Studebaker based Avanti's that I have driven. Coil springs on all four corners, ride is great. Easy to modify steering, suspension and brakes, just look for Monte Carlo performance parts.
Good luck,
Jim
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We moved and I have been going though boxes of old material and came across the orginal leather interior sales and care guide for my Avanti. It was from Eagle Ottawa Interiors and they are still in business.
www.eagleottawa.com
I have contacted them about replacement leather and will let the site know if it is availible.
Jim Wood
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After reading an acticle in Auto Restorer about the new ISIS wiring system I looked into it more,
http://www.isispower.com/products.html?ProductID=ISIS3BOXZ
if you don't care about OEM I would think it would offer alot to older vehicles. With all the problems that Avanti's have with not being able to find replacement switches, etc. It would be nice to have a system that grounds the switches instead of powering them. I've wanted to rewire my '87 Avanti and this looks like the way to go.
Jim Wood
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On my '87 Avanti all current goes thru the amp gauge before going to the ignition switch or the fuse block. Make sure you have power on both sides of the amp gauge.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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The driver’s door, front top will not adjust flush with the fender. It sticks out about 1/4 inch, if I elongate the adjustment holes in the hinge further will I be able to adjust it flush? Has anyone done this?
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The gauges and lights are removed from the back, tiny hands are helpful.
I talked to a company that does soda-blasting a couple of weeks ago and they told me that some fiberglass can't be soda-blasted, it will shread it. They told me to bring a part by so that they could test it first.
Good luck
Jim Wood
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You will need to tap into the Light Green wire coming off of the Transmission Position Switch mounted on the transmission. It has a six wire plug and looks like it is mounted on the top rear of the transmission. The diagrams I'm looking at are for a '90 Caprice. If you need the diagrams give me your e-mail address and I'll send them to you.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Thats why I make the those big mechanic bucks. lol
Jim Wood
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As a mechanic the first thing I would look at is the u-joints, then the transmission and engine mounts. Engine idle speed may be too high.
Good luck
Jim Wood
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Why do you need to tap into the circuit and why can't you tap into the wires at the backup lights?
Jim Wood
Holes in body
in Avanti Pub
Posted
Thanks for the info, I wanted to make sure that these holes aren't for ventilation or something. You can't see from the photo but the hole goes to the right another 3", same on the other side of the compartment. I think the easiest way to fill the hole will be with spray insulation foam. The factory filled the area around the fuel tank with pink housing insulation, which held water coming in from these holes and caused alot of surface rust as you can see from the straps. The factory also brought the foam insulation that is under the carpeting up and glued in to the front of the gas tank. If any fuel leaked it would soak int the foam and down into the carpet.
Jim Wood