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IndyJimW

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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. Before spending money on items that may not work, grab a volt meter and perform a voltage drop test from the battery to the starter. If more then .2 volts when cranking, you have a problem with loose terminals, corrosion etc. Next perform an amp test, should draw no more then 1 amp per cubic inch, 350ci = 350 amps. If drawing too many amps make sure the distributor advance isn't set to high, this can cause the same problem when hot. Shouldn't need a shield if it didn't come with one.

  2. My 87 Avanti came with a v-belt fan and the only electric fans I've seen up to the 90's have been owner installed. Yours was possibly a factory option?

    You can get a GM Fan Switch from Summit Racing in different settings this one is 195 on / 180 off.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jet-60600/overview/make/chevrolet

    Use one that doesn't fight your thermostat setting, the one above wouldn't work with a 195 thermostat because it wouldn't allow the thermostat to open fully.

    A bosch relay, fuses and add the A/C to the system so the fan powers on when the A/C is on and your set. Why do you need an adjustable fan controller? Just something else to go wrong.

    I may have a wiring diagram somewhere if you need one.

    Good luck,

    Jim

  3. I'm a mechanic and I see a lot of Avanti owner jump to replacing radiators etc, without starting at the basics.

    1- I looked up 1985 Chevrolet 305ci and it uses a 195 thermostat and was designed to operate at this temperature. Running a lower temperature may cause drivability problems. Is the engine overheating or just running hotter then you think it should? If the gauge is OFF by 10 percent that would add 20 degrees.

    2- I can cause a older engine to run hotter up a hill by setting the distributer advance wrong. I would be surprised if it was vapor lock as I've never run into it in 35 years as a mechanic. When the engine dies look down the carburetor and operate the linkage and see if it's squiring fuel, if it is that's not the problem. 1980's electronics weren't the best and you may be loosing spark because of heat breakdown of the ignition module or pickup.

    3- Start with the basics in your cooling system, this will cause 80 percent of your problems. V belts don't like running at the hotter temps, that why manufactures starting using serpentine belts. Make sure v belts are adjusted correct. Run 50/50 mix coolant, not water. Is your shroud missing or cracked? Is your fan clutch working? Radiator cap the correct pressure and working? Overflow tank working and radiator completely full? Condenser and radiator clean so that air can flow?

    I changed my 87 Avanti over to Tuned Port Injection, serpentine belt system and electric fan. Not because it needed it but because I like that type of setup. That setup runs a195 thermostat and the GM factory computer won't turn on the fan until 225 degrees, that is normal.

    If you came into my shop I would start by looking at your ignition system first. If you have the large cap GM distributor the advance weights were bad about wearing out and sticking in full advance. After that I would look at your cooling system basics.

    Good luck,

    Jim

  4. Questions 1& 2 -

    My '87 Avanti uses Chrysler window motors from a 1987 Lebaron, the OEM # is on the motor. I am currently repairing my gears, if the motor runs the clutch in the gear kit is probably bad. Gear kit is CARDONE # 42-94 about $20.00.

    http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=aYl4KZldCPnhgNFN9CEIKfWVDUhpyBUkAUz0A

    Question 3 –

    You can get the Avanti Service Manual on CD disc from Studebaker International. My ’87 Avanti uses the same regulator as the original.

    Question 4 –

    I used the specs. for the ’87 Monte Carlo to align my ’87 Avanti on my Hunter Alignment machine. So ’89 Caprice should work fine for you.

    Question 5 & 6 –

    Got mine from Restoration Specialties, talked to Dave Mihalko Jr @ (814) 467-9842. I ordered a six foot length of the outer, had him round the ends and cut in half. The rear of the outer metal needs to be rounded, the front fits under the rubber for the vent window. You will need to cut with metal shears to fit and the strip will need to be bent to shape as you install it. The inner pieces can be cut to length, but it was easier to take door panel to upholstery shop for install.

    http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

    Jim Wood

  5. Pictures of door seal install.

    407608804.jpg

    Upper seal is old seal, Lower seal is new OEM Chevy Monte Carlo seal.

    407608818.jpg

    Rear lower part of seal held in place by two screws.

    407608812.jpg

    Rear corner and top of seal held into runners.

    407608807.jpg

    Front corner, runner stops at windshield post. Double sided emblem tape is used on post.

    407608806.jpg

    End of new seal is cut off at base of windshield post.

    Jim Wood

  6. Brilliant! I need to do a roof rail weather-strip replacement on my 89. I have the frame-less window and need to replace the strips and readjust the window for a tighter seal , any suggestions?

    I compared a G-body (Monte Carlo, Malibu, El Camino, Cutlass, Grand Prix, Grand National, Regal) to my 87 Avanti to match the seals. You may also compare a B-body ( Buick Roadmaster, Chev. Caprice) to your '89 Avanti.

    Use the current issue of Avanti Magazine for door adjustments or get the Avanti Manual on CD from Studebaker International.

    Jim Wood

  7. Just replaced my roof rail weather-strips on my ’87 Coupe. The seal attaches to the body from the base of the windshield post over the window and down to the top of the door. The seals are for a ’87 Monte Carlo. I used Steele Rubber Products PN 82-0035-68 which includes both drivers and passenger door seals. Great product.

    http://www.steelerub...le=2-door-coupe

    The seal fits into the runners in the rear and top without any glue needed. The seal comes with push clips instead of using screws on the rear bottom, my OEM seal used one screw but I am going to drill another small hole for the second push clip. The front of the seal is attached to the windshield post using double sided emblem tape. I cut off the bottom front of the seal to match the original.

  8. It’s that time of year again and my shop is getting into the A/C mode so I thought I would throw out what could be done for the A/C system in your Avanti.

    R12 - Keep it original, the best performing A/C for your Avanti. Cost, availability and lack of someone with the skill are making this harder to accomplish.

    R134a Conversion – For R134a to operate correctly pretty much everything from the firewall forward will have to be replaced and the expansion valve, if used,. I’m also replacing everything inside my ’87 Avanti because of the poor design. I would recommend a Vintage Air system. Cost to convert around $2500.00.

    R134a Retrofit Kit – Will not cool as well as either of the above but is better than nothing. For $20.00 you can get a FJC Retrofit Kit PN – 2538 from Amazon or your local auto parts store. This includes R12 to R134a fittings and new oil. You will still need someone to recover the R12 and the old oil and charge the system with R134a. I would recommend this option until something major fails, then do an R134a Conversion.

    Jim Wood

  9. Humor me. My (new) 1989 convert has "sport suspension" and torsion (added) bars front and rear. The ride is VERY stiff and the cornering very flat. How can I trade flat for stiff? Tires are fairly new and inflated 30 psi front and rear. How much lower could I go? Mostly bumpy city driving.

    dapy,

    You have a completely different suspension. Try softer springs and shocks or an air suspension.

    Jim Wood

  10. Check into an AC Delco drier, the ones I have used come with new stickers in the box that have the charge on them. I wouldn't go to the expense of changing components, just get a FJC R134a conversion kit and use R134a in the R12 system. Then if and when you have a problem spend the money on R134a components. I have been using R134a in my 1993 Mercury for 7 years now with no problems.

  11. Depends on the frame used on your '89 it may be an Impala. My '87 Coupe uses a Monte Carlo frame and that caused some problems with the rear wheel opening. After upgrading the suspension I wanted some better tires with less sidewall flex. I found that the widest tires that would fit in the rear because of the frame was a P225/60R16. The rim I used was a 16"x7" with a 4" backspacing. This will keep the tire inside the wheel well with gap of a 1/2" between the sidewall of the tire and the frame. Rims wider then 7" will contact the frame or will mount the tire outside the wheel well and may touch the body. That tire diameter is also the same as the OEM 15" tires and will not affect the VSS or speedometer. I dropped the nose 2 1/2" with drop spindles and have no problem with rubbing unless I go to the lock in a left turn, the tire will rub the inner fender well where it bulges from the parking brake cable.

  12. I've found that the problem is the buildup of old grease in the tumbler that becomes hard. Start by getting a can of Brake Cleaner with a spout and stick it into the tumbler like you would your key. Spray for a couple of seconds and then use your key to turn the tumbler back and forth. Repeat until the key turns free, then spray with a good lock lubricant.

    I've never seen the solenoid cause a problem like that, usually when they go bad they don't pull the plunger in and out far enough. If the lock button will move up and down easily by hand then the linkage is OK.

  13. I have seen it on '87 and later Avantis in case the solenoid won't open the trunk. ie - battery dead and your jumper cables in trunk. It connects at the linkage to the solenoid plunger and then goes out the hole for the bumper lights Hangs down a couple of inchs out the hole. You can reach the cable loop from under the car behind the bumper roughly between the licence plate and the drivers tail light.

  14. My cable rusted away so I picked up the parts to make a new one. Parts needed - 18" of 1/8 inch galvanized cable. 1-3/8" eyelet for 14-16 gauge electrical wire. 1-Parallel terminal for 10-12 gauge wire. Parts cost should be about $1.00.

    1. Slide parallel terminal onto cable 6", loop other end into terminal and crush with hammer. Solder terminal.

    2. Add eyelet to other end of cable and cruch with hammer. Solder eyelet.

    New cable will be 16" long.

    406281748.jpg

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