IndyJimW
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Posts posted by IndyJimW
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I'm sure I'll run into problems, like right now I'm trying to figure out if I need a different radiator, since the coolant flows backwards, etc. but the problems should be worth the better performance and mileage.
The coolant flows backward INSIDE the engine, still comes in the waterpump and out the thermostat housing.
Jim Wood
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I have a '87 and ran into the same problem. Do you have power at the fuse block? All power comes into the car from one wire that goes to the Amp gauge first and then splits to the fuse block and the ignition switch etc. If one of the wires to the Amp gauge comes off you will have no power to the fuse block or the ignition switch. The amp gauge wiring is push on so its the easiest to check for 12 volts. My problem was between the firewall plug and the Amp gauge at a marine style twist connector behind the heater controls, I bypassed the connector.
The Monte Carlo wiring diagram is only good for under the hood and the ECM, it shows 3 power wires going inside the car but my '87 only has one. The Avanti wiring diagram isn't completly correct for inside the car but is somewhat helpful in showing how Avanti wanted to wire it, kind of....
You can get a copy of the '87 Avanti wiring diagram from Mr. Ernest Edwards at
eedwards0839@yahoo.com.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Hello to all....just brought home a 1989 Avanti Convertible yesterday. It has just 17,000 miles on it and is in great shape. I do have a couple of questions for those of you with similar cars/years. On the way home, cruising at 75 at an outside temp of about 85 degrees, the motor temp ran what looked to be 205 degrees (a bit of assumption here...the guage goes from 160 to 220 with a couple of slash marks in between). Just to be safe (I had 1000 miles to drive) I kept the AC off for a good bit of the time and it stayed right aroung 195 or so. Can you give me some insight as to "normal operating temp" on these cars......of course it has the 305 motor Monte Carlo Chassis. The owners manual doesnt give you this info.....it does reference 220 degrees as the threshhold level for overheating.
That apperar normal, my '87 uses the same setup, 195 thermostat and would register about the same on the gauge. You can install a 185 thermostat and it will lower the engine temperature 10 degrees, but it is not recommended as the engine ECM is designed to run 195 and may not come out of open loop.
Also....any tips on tire/wheel combos? It has the standard "C4 Corvette look" wheels on it in great shape....I just dont care for the look. I saw some wheels that looked like Magnum 500's on an 89 on the internet recently, but I thought they were all Mopar and Ford bolt patterns? Suggestions or ideas? I do like the Magnum 500's.....that is what is on my '80 Avanti Coupe and they always look great.I am running 16x7 rims, 4" backspace, Chevy 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern and P225/60R16 tires. Thats about as big a tire/rim combo that you would want, the only rub I have is if you crank the steering wheel all the way to the left hand stop the inside rear of the left front tire will rub the parking brake cable. That size tire will only change the revolutions about 2 tire turns in a mile so no change is needed for the speedometer. More performance tires are available in that size and it REALLY changed the handling.
I do have a set of 15" Magnum 500's that I took off my '87 that are for sale.
Jim Wood
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Sounds like someone has installed a circuit breaker, I use them for problems that only happen on occassion. Just replace with a standard fuse and see if it works.
Jim Wood
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My '87 Avanti has no window frames and doesn't use the older Avanti upper door seals that glue on, the seal is one piece and fits in a channel. The Monte seal is longer on both ends and it looks like Avanti cut it shorter on both ends to fit. The seal is just a long "L" so when you place the molded corner of the "L" in the upper rear of the door opening the rest of the seal fits in the channel and you trim to lenght.
The other part that I'm looking for is the rubber piece that screws onto the door jamb to seal the rear of the window, its the same as a Monte Carlo.
Seems smart to me to use EVERY part that you can from the donor car to cut costs.
Jim Wood
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After looking at the door rubber on a '87 Monte Carlo and seeing that it was the same I talked to my local Chevrolet dealer and found that they were still available. I had them order the drivers side for me at a cost of $142.00. This is the seal attached to the body that seals the drivers window. I also picked up all the parts to replace the inner and outter window sweeps from Restoration Specialities, will have pictures and Part #'s later.
Jim Wood
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Great info Ernie! Ahh, the memories of working on carburetors and points. I installed many a one-way vacuum check valve to stop Chevrolet exhaust cross-over valves from rattling during take-offs.
With all the different engines used in the Avanti I’m kind of interested in what is a normal running temperature, I remember that the 400ci Chevys were a bear to keep from overheating no matter what vehicle they were in.
If you have an engine with a 10psi radiator cap, the cap would raise the boiling point of the coolant about 2.5 degrees for every psi, from 212 degrees to 237 degrees. So the engine doesn’t overheat by design until the radiator cap vents coolant at 237 degrees. But most of us feel that an engine is RUNNING HOT at over 210 degrees. I believe that today’s engines last longer because of heat, newer fluids, EFI and electronic ignition. The problem that you run into with older cars is that the fuel and ignition systems just can’t handle the heat. I’ve never heard of a newer car with “vapor lock” that disappeared with EFI and its higher fuel pressures. Some of the newer coil-on-plug ignition systems can produce 80,000 volts and with electronics heat just doesn’t break down the system.
Dennis it sounds like the idle was a little too slow and your fuel system and ignition didn’t like the added heat it caused, Ernie has some great ideas to help you with those. I believe that most Avanti’s that run hot have a simple problem with the cooling system, BUT experience has showed me some mind numbing problems also, in those cases it takes time and the willingness to look at each piece of the system at its basic to find the problem.
I finally found the problem with my wife’s Jeep running hot, (Man I hate working on my own stuff) after beating me up on this one I pulled the water pump and found that the blades were loose on the shaft. Most of the time the water pump would work OK but on occasion the blades would slip and the engine would run hot, a new water pump seems to have cured it so far. (Did I mention that I hate working on my own stuff?).
Good luck
Jim Wood
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Try the people at Restoration Speciaties they have helped me with trim for my '87 Avanti Coupe. Download their catalog and you can compare. This last weekend I had a chance to look at a '87 Monte Carlo and the door rubber was the same, so Avanti used some rubber from the donor car. You may want to compare yours to a Caprice.
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/
Good luck
Jim Wood
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I stand corrected; sometimes I go into stupid mode and don’t see the oblivious. I’m a Shell distributor so yesterday I called my supplier and asked for the Technical Engineers phone number. He told me the following:
Shell recommends Rotella T in ALL older cars. Rotella T 15W40 is good down to 0 degrees, for colder temperatures you can use Rotella T 10W30 or Rotella T SB 5W40. Rotella T SB is a synthetic blend and all current Rotella T formulas have 1200 ppm of zinc. If your car sits much you should change oil every 6 months because the oil attracts moisture and will form acids.
Jim Wood
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For older cars use a name brand 5W30, a good oil filter and change it every 3,000 miles or once a year after winter. I believe it to be that simple.
I own a company that is a Shell distributor and has changed oil for fleets for over 25 years. I have used custom oils, taken tens of thousands of oil analysis, run extended oil changes on engines and have taken care of thousands of vehicles from the first oil change to the last. I have attended conferences by the oil companies about the newer oils and almost all the changes have been because of pollution controls and mileage standards. Some of the older additives don’t play well with catalytic convertors on cars or newer diesel trucks.
When I started as a mechanic the AVERAGE car engine needed a valve job by 40,000 miles and the engine rebuilt by 80,000 miles. A car with over 100,000 miles was rare. I would think that any modern name brand oil would make the engine last longer than it was originally designed.
Most of the discussion about flat tappet cams that I have seen is for high performance engines that would have more stress then older engine designs. For these engines I can see using a custom oil or additive.
Today’s motor oils are greatly superior to the engine oils of the 1960’s and any loss of additives would be made up for by their superior capabilities. I don’t like the idea of using 15W40 motor oil because most of the wear in an engine comes during cold starts. A 5W30 will crank with less resistance and build up oil pressure faster in Winter weather. Most of you probably drive less than 3,000 miles a year in your older car, I would recommend that you change your oil at the beginning of Spring so as to remove all the contaminates that cold Winter starts put into your crankcase. I believe that this is harder on your older engine then lack of additives in modern oil.
I’m not a big believer in motor oil additives, they change the base oil and no oil manufacture will warranty their oil if you add anything to it. I service thousands of gasoline vehicles that have over 150,000 miles on them using nothing but 5W30 or 5W20 motor oil.
Synthetic motor oil is the BEST oil you can buy, but I don’t think you need it. If I can get 200,000 miles out of a gasoline engine with regular motor oil why spend the extra money. I recommend synthetic if it was the OEM fill or in a high temperature environment, remember the Mobil 1 oil frying in the pan, or for cold environments. I have diesel trucks that sit outside all Winter and can’t be plugged in, they crank slow and are hard to start with a 15W40 diesel oil but change over to synthetic 5W30 diesel oil and they crank like its 70 degrees outside.
I hope that my experience can help this discussion.
Jim Wood
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Google "small block chevrolet casting numbers" for engine ID info and parts interchange.
Jim Wood
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I do not believe that there is a design problem with the Avanti that causes over-heating!
There, I’ve said it and stirred up the pot now here is why I believe this is just a myth.
My background - I have my own shop and have been an ASE Master Auto & Truck Tech for over 25 years and a professional mechanic for 33 years.
My Avanti – ’87 Coupe with a Monte Carlo chassis. Standard body, no holes in fender wells. When I first purchased it, the temperature gauge would read 205 degrees at all times, idle to interstate with or without A/C on. I hooked up my scanner and it reads 195 degrees, same as thermostat, so gauge is off a little. I installed an electric fan to eliminate a LOUD wind noise from the shroud that made the car a pain to drive, no difference in operating temperature. Installed an air dam to hide the bottom radiator cross member, no difference in operating temperature. Last summer I installed a 180 degree thermostat to see what would happen, operating temperature is now 180 degrees at all times. My engine temperature is no different then the Monte Carlo body that supplied my chassis.
Some of the problems that could cause overheating;
1. Bad radiator cap not holding pressure, this will cause coolant to boil at a lower temperature.
2. Bad or missing thermostat, will not keep engine at correct operating temperature. No thermostat may cause engine to run hotter.
3. Fan belt loose not turning fan fast enough.
4. Fan clutch bad not turning fan fast enough.
5. Water pump blades corroded not allowing coolant to flow enough.
6. Distributor advance wrong making engine run hotter.
7. Plugged radiator, this can be inside or outside.
8. Head gasket leaking.
One of the biggest problem with vehicles from the late seventies and earlier is rust in the cooling system coating the inside of the block and not allowing proper heat transfer to the coolant. I worked for a fleet for 23 years beginning in 1975 and they would lose at least one engine a month to overheating during the winter and two a month during the summer. The people in charge would not use anti-freeze year round or install overflow tank systems because of the cost. New management took over in the late eighties and I talked them into overflow systems and using anti-freeze year round and the engine losses dropped by 90%.
Back in the sixties a mechanic for C&F Trucking discovered that the air pocket that was left in the top of the radiator for expansion was causing problems with the cooling of the engine. As the coolant expanded the air would mix with the coolant and travel in the system causing hot spots and rust inside the block. He designed the over-flow system to allow the coolant to expand without allowing air into the system. All the truck and automotive manufactures started installing the system on their vehicles in the early seventies. In the late eighties I saw an interview with the inventor on TV; he said that he was suing the manufactures because they didn’t pay him to use the system. He won his lawsuit in 2000 and became a very rich man.
The system uses a double seal radiator cap that allows the coolant to travel to the overflow tank during system heat up, then when the engine cools down it causes a vacuum to suck the coolant back into the radiator instead of air.
Test the radiator cap for pressure and make sure the seals are good, also make sure that the hose to the overflow tank is good with no leaks. Mark the overflow tank level cold, the level should rise as the engine reaches operating temperature and return to its original mark after the engine cools down. If the level doesn’t move you have a leak in the system allowing air in.
Always use a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze for best protection and replace it as recommended because the additives wear out. The anti-freeze may still read OK for freeze protection but have no more additives to protect the engine. If you don’t want to install an overflow system on your older Avanti then add a product to your coolant like Pencool Coolant additive, it will keep the inside of your block looking like new.
Jim Wood
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Be careful in prying socket out, the black plastic socket will come loose from the metal base leaving the metal base and bulb in the gauge. This allows the bulb to drop into the gauge resulting in removal of the gauge to remove bulb. The spring tries to push the plastic socket and metal base apart, so after they come apart a couple of times the metal base will not stay in the plastic socket. I needed to replace several of mine with a new style socket from Steward/Warner.
Jim Wood
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The '88 Avanti should be the same as my '87, Chevrolet Monte Carlo, parts should be available and most shops or GM dealer can work on it.
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After running both blue and red LED bulbs in a couple of gauges I finally decided to install the red LED bulbs, the blue were too bright. I replaced the gauge bulbs with the 4 LED bulbs and all of the other bulbs with the same color 1 LED bulbs. Green for turn signals, blue for high beams, red for all warning bulbs and yellow for the Check Engine light. The Green turn signals helped in daylight because the OEM bulbs were not bright enough.
There is a special level of HELL for the people who designed the dash gauges in my '87. Spent about 4 hours replacing bulbs and two of the sockets. The sockets are a bad one wire design that can seperate leaving part of the socket and the bulb in the gauge, forcing the removal of the gauge. Replaced with two wire sockets from Steward Warner.
I also replaced the 211-1 bulbs in the interior lights with LED's, seem just as bright with no worry of burning the plactic covers form the heat.
Jim Wood
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Does the '87 Avanti have a Vehicle Speed Sensor and if so where?
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Should be a '87 Monte Carlo, if not AC Delco use to sell a cut to length cable kit that would work or check around for a local cable shop that can make one.
Jim Wood
Does anyone know what the lower speedometer cable on a 1987 Avanti is out of. It's approximately 62"long and one end is female that goes on the transmission (200-4R) and the top has a 7/8th in threaded end that goes into a 2' square box, that I'm old is for the cruise???[/size] -
My '87 Avanti Coupe in on a Monte Carlo SS chassis, it has a 305 HO engine, 200R4 trans. and a 10 bolt 2.43 rear axle with posi. Suspension and steering is Monte Carlo but I believe the rear springs have been changed as stock springs raise the rear of the car up about 3 inches. Engine and computer wiring is Monte Carlo with everything else Avanti.
Good luck
Jim Wood
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Avanti 2 light system -
Avanti 2 light system with 4 bulbs -
Avanti 2 light system with Center Brake light -
Avanti 2 light system with 4 bulbs and Center Brake light -
Avanti 2 light system and Trunk lights -
Avanti 2 light system with 4 bulbs and Trunk lights -
Avanti 2 light system with Trunk and Center Brake lights -
Avanti 2 light system with 4 bulbs, Trunk and Center Brake lights, Factory on my '87 -
I would first recommend that you get some reflective furnace tape from Home Depot and line the insides of your light sockets, this made one of the biggest improvements to my brake lights.
This is the factory 3rd brake light out of my Avanti, its GM and I think from the Monte Carlo donor car. Disassemble and check any light assembly for melted plastic sockets as this is quite common. Thats the reason its sitting on my work bench, installed new socket and LED light.
This is how the factory modified the standard light asemmbly for the Avanti to accept 2 lights.
Good luck
Jim Wood
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Here is a picture of the truck socket lined with reflective tape.
My regular lights were modified by the factory for 2 bulbs each.
My '87 Avanti came with a third brake light, I believe it's from the Monte Carlo donor car. I just installed a LED bulb because the socket was melted, this is a problem with third brale lights so open up the used light before you purchase.
Jim Wood
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I've seen a lot of discussion on the forums of ways to have Avanti brake lights seen better. My '87 Avanti Coupe came with 7 brake light bulbs and it was still not up to par with todays cars. So to help others decide how to upgrade their Avanti I am going to unplug different sets and take pictures with the brake lights on to show how each upgrade will help.
The first upgrade I made was to line the sockets with reflective tape from Home Depot, this has made the biggest improvement.
Her are the options I'll show:
Two brake lights.
Two brake lights with 4 bulbs.
Two brake lights and Center brake light.
Two brake lights with 4 bulbs and Center brake light.
Two brake lights with Trunk lights.
Two brake lights, Trunk lights and Center brake light.
Two brake lights with 4 bulbs, Trunk lights and Center brake light. - My '87 came from the factory this way.
LED bulbs - I finally found a 1157 LED that works. It is as bright or brighter than a regular 1157 but fills the whole lens with light with no shaded areas. You would have to change all the lights to LED because they operate quicker, when installed next to regular bulbs they come on first and shut off first. Plays tricks with your eyes.
If anyone has a different way let me know and I'll try it.
Jim Wood
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I am currently installing over 100 high output LED brake lights on a fleet of vehicles as an addition to their third brake light if equiped. It's oval, about 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" tall by 4" long and can be surface mounted or placed in a rubber grommet. The light is divided into two halfs and when you brake the light will first flash between sides and then light fully. This light is BRIGHT and VERY visible. It pulls almost no amps but needs to be wired to the third brake light or the brake light switch. I was going to get a housing or use the one I have on my '87. Monday I'll get the name of the company and the part # and maybe post some pictures.
Jim Wood
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I had four new tires put on my '78 Avanti. It has True Spoke wire wheels with knockoffs. The garage called to say that they could put three lugs back on three of the wheels (one per wheel) because they were crossthreaded, maybe from over torque.
They say I need three lugs and three studs. I don't think True Spoke is in business anymore.
Suggestions welcome!
Tim
I would think that the studs and nuts would be standard and not True Spoke, should be able to get them from any Parts stone in Dorman.
Look on Bob Johnstone's site for part #.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx3.html
Jim Wood
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My best is the guy that came up and said, " I havn't seen one of those in a long time, that's one of those Indiana Hot Rods"
87 radiator
in 1984-91 Avanti
Posted
Its not a Monte Carlo. Had my '87 recored with 3 rows, not a problem for a good radiator shop.
Jim Wood