wdaly
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Posts posted by wdaly
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Or, maybe it does. My suggestions come from 29 yrs personal experience with an '88 coupe (including removing the entire dash to replace a heater core, replacing a rusted A-pillar and putting in a new windshield). My first experience (of many) with a non-functioning hood was in Winter or colder periods. The hood would not open at first - maybe the spring had problems, BUT the cable never failed!
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At the risk of sounding, well, weird - as a last ditch effort (starting now) try this for the '88 hood. Pull on the hood release while at the Same Time someone else attempts to pull-up on one of the corners of the hood (start with drivers side). You may want to consider a plastic pry tool like for interior trim removal (may want to tape the tool so as not to scratch anything). Couldn't hurt!
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I'm not certain about the '89, but the '88 has a small opening (cut-out) on the interior door panel at the back end of the door (check your '88 to see what I mean). If your '89 is the same refer to my earlier post and you just might get the door to open - I did. As I recall it has something to do with a worn/bad spring on the latch (?).
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This is bugging me (besides, I'm retired and bored). I just messaged Plwindish as he has (had?) an 'actual' '89 so maybe he can help!
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If there is an emergency release cable it is probably similar to the cable used (at least on '87-88) rear trunk release - a wire that is no larger than a picture frame hanging wire. Looking at the picture I would guess this cable can be reached from behind the dash (w/o removing the dash).
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Nice investigative detective work Avanti83!
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My $0.02: Using my former '88 coupe as reference -
Hood - Try removing Drivers side inner fender liner to see if you can get close to the release mechanism.
Door - Get inside the car and go to the rear seat / you should see a small cut-out where the latch-lock is located on the door. Take a small screwdriver and try and push the lock lever up (or in). I can't remember everything, but I think you need to pull the inside door release handle while doing this. Your problem is probably with the locking.
I just thought of this......... Regarding the Hood. Before doing anything else, try this. On the left and right corners nearest the windshield hit each corner hard with your closed fist - I think starting with the right corner first!
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Hmmmm. You're not talking about the FRP manufacturer. Only FRP (generic) things I can think of is the different requirements necessary for the GM frame, maybe design reductions in number of parts needed, or ????
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Left (?) front fenders possibly cracking.
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Mercedes.
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According to the AARP magazine article and picture - '63.
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Might as well order the rubber SEAL as well!
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OK - remove the windshield wipers
Also might as well remove the dash-mounted inside rearview mirror.
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Remove the 'A' pillar weather strip in order to remove the screws holding the 'A' pillar stainless.
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TRUE - if you are counting 2 front and 2 rear straps that connect to each other (as memory serves me).
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Jaguar?
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A large - wide "V".
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This sounds like a 50/50 proposition. I'm no Gambler (and no expert), but..............I suppose it's possible on a special order - kinda doubt the company would do it though if it was not a stated option.
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Yippee! I Win! I'll take the Lump Sum payment please.
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After much consternation (headaches) the answer to this 'trick' question is ........... all of the above!
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I don't know - but I do know he had a bar in Cancun that I visited some 20 yrs ago. Think it was called "Avanti"!
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I just happen to be in possession of several 'body-off' pictures of this (Monte) car. As you said, as installed the very rear section of frame now moves closer to the center! Interesting. Thanks!
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I did not Know that! Why did they do that?
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The only thing I can think of is the cutting off of part of the rear end, but that's not very drastic/highly unusual.
Success! Got hood open on the 1988 Convertible
in 1984-91 Avanti
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YIKES! Congratulations!!!