wdaly
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Posts posted by wdaly
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I still can't believe my eyes (are they deceiving me?) On the back cover of the latest Avanti Magazine #140 the top picture has a red Avanti that appears to have a round headlight on the passenger side and a SQUARE headlight on the drivers side! What's up???
Bill D
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Yes but it shoudn't be nessesary. Larger amp alternators can be used, will look and bolt up the same.
The stock alternator is at least 80 amp rated. I have a '87 and have had no problems and I added an electric fan. I would say you have a alternator or battery problem. Alternator not producing enough amps or volts, or battery not keeping reserve. You need to have the charging system checked out, at 2000 rpm with a load you will produce max amps and around 14 volts.
I just replaced a truck alternator on a truck that produced max amps but only 12 volts. It would charge the batteries great but only to up to 12 volts, so they have been fighting a starting problem for a year.
Be aware that Avanti Motors wired up the electrical system kind of weird. I know my '87 does not match their wiring diagram, and I wouldn't trust the voltage gauge either. They show 3 seperate power supply wires, just like the Monte Carlo coming into the interior. There is only one on mine and it goes to the amp gauge first and then to the fuse box etc. On my '87 you can reach up behind the amp gauge and pull off the push-on supply wire and then you can't start the car, kills everything.
Thanks I-Jim & G-Slinger:
Perhaps I should have mentioned that when I do overload the electrical system the belt starts screetching, but probably more important than that - this is the ORIGINAL alternator with 112000+ miles on it!
Perhaps I should consider replacing it in general.
Bill D
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Is it possible to up the output on my 88 Coupe (aka-Monte Carlo)?
I have installed a digital voltage gauge some time ago and it will "flash" when the demand exceeds the capability of the alternator. ie. it will flash when it reads below 12 volts as a nice warning that I had better start turning off stuff. In winter that stuff includes rear window defogger grid, defroster fan, wipers, lights... Summertime is not much better with the AC on sitting at a long stoplight.
My understanding is I probably have a typical 40-45 Amp system? We all know our friendly neighborhood cops have enhanced electrical systems - so - what would be involved? Is it just a matter of fitting in a, I assume, physically larger unit?
Bill D
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There are some pretty smart "regular" guys on this site that will no doubt give you their expert opinions (I am not one of those guys). I have an '88 and yes it gets a little tough getting all the way down to those lower gears in general. Everything is GM on these. Get the Monte Carlo service manual and any needed adjustments will be explained - or better yet do like I do - find an older mechanic who knows how to work on these things blindfolded - they have been there and done that. The newer cars are what that can't work on much anymore. You don't say if you bought car new or used - any changes made by any previous owner? You can "pop-off" the console and look in there if you like.Two questions1. In my 1987 Avanti convertible the steering wheel's normal position is OK, when I go to use the tilt wheel it only goes down lower and lower and lower. Is this normal, or did someone install the tilt wheel incorrectly.
2. What brand of cable connect the gear shift to the automatic transmission, is it from an 1987 Monte Carlo, the car barely goes into drive and I can not get into the lower gears because I am at the very back of the console slot.
I am not a mechanic, I hope I have explained my problems well enough.
Thanks Bill Donnelly
As far as the steering wheel is concerned. "What do you consider normal?" On mine if you put the steering all the way up it is hitting the dash. Put it down one or two clicks and you can still see most of the gauges. The rest (downward) blocks the gauges. Go all the way down and the wheel is hitting your legs and you can't even steer.
Bill D
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This is pretty coolwow , and here i am using warm soap and water. what will they think of next?lolololol
stuff and has been out since last year. It is water based - so it washes right off. Want to rob a bank - no problem - just spray your "Avanti" with this stuff (it comes in different colors) rob the bank and then wash your car. "It wasn't me officer, my car is not the same color as the identified get-away-vehicle". I have used it to "see" what my car would look like under different schemes, ie. I sprayed my silver Avanti roof BLACK to see what it would look like if I faked a convertible roof / it looked like an Avanti with a vinyl top! You're suppose to wash it off after 3 days. I have gone as long as 5 days with no problem at all...Bill D
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Hey Tom:your photos dont shown the hole i have. i will post photos this weekend, the hole is at the bottom shelf below the tank to the left of the wiring harness juction. their is a flat indention spot in the fiberglass. i will kill him the most humanly as i can. glue boards? i came up with a idea about closing the hole and will post photos of the idea. ps i check the trap, nothing i took it out tom and put down glue boards.Pictures really are worth "a thousand words". You're gas tank set-up is pretty-much a 'clone' of my 1988 coupe - but what's with the Heavy-Duty wiring coming from the sender? My wiring is not much bigger than strong fish-line!! Is this why my gas gauge is a guessing game at best? Did you change anything (metal gas lines on top of tank for example). What are the 2 white wires from the sender on the right side?
Bill D
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As far as the rusted springs are concerned, or any rust anywhere, try POR-15. Interesting stuff. They have a web-site, interestingly enough - POR-15.com.thank guys, it is a hole about 2" and looks like it would be if their was a ruppture in the tank it could drain their. . i found that their is 1' hole at the top on both rear fender sides from the tank area for vent lines and it seems to be the freeway for the mice to the trunk. i checked it last night and found the trap was sprung and the bait gone. i will try a glue boards next. the hunt is on. i still have not pulled the tank yet the outside looks good but i wanted to do is check the inside.
'
Bill D
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Open question. Does any one know what the power windows rocker switches came from??? In the LSC's or 88 models.
I believe thats where My problem is.Cleaned the contacts in them. yesterday. Its better ,but I think its only a temporary fix.
Here is what I have written down from the June 1998 Meet that Mike Kelly mentioned regarding parts for these cars. "Dura(?) 'Bapsco' Elkhardt, IN - window switches". That's it! I would think you could go to a good 'professional' electric supply store/vendor and find a replacement, or possibly a marine-boating parts supplier (West Marine). I would bring in the switch. Bill D
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A poll on your Avanti.NEVER - and I have the rust to prove it! Car is driven daily in Wisconsin in all kinds of weather. My car is an '88 and I have some important news for you '87-'88 owners WE HAVE A BIG PROBLEM or will soon. A fellow member (who will not be identified until he permits it) has removed the body from the monte carlo chassis because the side mounting mating steel piece (I don't know what you call it) BUT there are 3 body bolts on each side (not including 2 in front & 2 in back) basically it was all rusted-out, the bolts were GONE! I would think this would be the very first instance where body was removed on a Kelly Avanti. And we thought "I ain't got no hogtroughs - I'm in good shape". Probably just the opposite I'm afraid.
Bill D
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Bill, did you receive the pictures I sent to your email address on sunday?
WayneC - I did and I sent you a 'personal' email on Monday, but now I don't see as a sent item in the folder. Anyway, great stuff and a lot of effort on your part. You wanted my address if I needed any 'tracings' and such and I included that. Let me ask my 16yr old how to go about this so the "whole world" doesn't know where I live ( I may have enemys some day).
Bill D
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I would check the resistance of the window to roll up and down. Sometimes the window guides need adjusting or the channel felt needs replaced. Spray some silicone into the channels and see if the window will travel up and down easier. I've also used larger washers, like the ones used on the door hinge bolts, to spread the clamping force to a larger area.
Jim Wood
Thanks for your input Jim. I have sprayed and slathered everything known to man (and some not) on the various mechanisms. I will look into your larger washer suggestion just as soon as the snow melts - I'd say in about 2 months! I have to admit though, that "vent" window adjustment is, well, IFFY at best. I have kept it Loose for now.
Bill Daly
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I would check the resistance of the window to roll up and down. Sometimes the window guides need adjusting or the channel felt needs replaced. Spray some silicone into the channels and see if the window will travel up and down easier. I've also used larger washers, like the ones used on the door hinge bolts, to spread the clamping force to a larger area.
Jim Wood
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I repaired the problem on the passenger door on one of my Avantis (a 66, I believe)
some years back by fabricating a bracket of stiff aircraft-grade sheet aluminum, about
a sixteenth inch thick. I had some elongated holes and some cracks in the fiberglass,
and you could plainly see the door panel bulging inward as the window was operated.
I cannot recall or describe exactly what I did, but I was able to fashion an odd-shaped flat piece,
perhaps a foot long, that nestled in a depression that connects various mounting holes of the
mechanisms involved (motor and regulator). I started by roughing it out on thin cardboard,
then drawing it precisely on paper (I was once a draftsman), with dimensions between the holes,
making a cardboard pattern from that drawing, trial fitting it, reiterating until I had a pattern that
appeared to fit properly, whereupon I traced it to the aluminum and fabricated a bracket.
Once the holes are elongated, however, it's tough to know exactly where they are supposed to be,
hence my trial & error approach with the cardboard patterns.... apparently I located the holes
with sufficient accuracy to do the job; it would be nice to have a car without the problem to use for measurements, and in fact you may be able to use the opposite door to assist in making a mirror-image pattern.
I vaguely remember having a problem (with the new bracket in place) remounting the armrest bracket,
and with the rod/wire actuator from the inside door lock lever; I can't remember exactly
what I did to overcome those issues, except to say they weren't major stumbling blocks.
I roughed the surfaces of the door and the bracket, epoxied the bracket into place on the passenger
compartment side of the door (I think I ended up using several slightly longer screws), and the window
worked fine thereafter.
The trick is to encompass as many mechanism mounting holes as possible with the bracket, since the
forces brought into play by these components push/pull against each other, eventually fatiguing
the fiberglass.
I have no idea whether the door panel on your later model car is the same as the one I repaired.
I've since sold that car, but I may have the pattern/drawing I used for the bracket somewhere in
the boxes of auto junk in my garage... If you email me, I'll look for it, and if I find it, perhaps
I can take a digital photo of it for you to give you a better idea of the bracket I fashioned.
Thank you for your quick response. The E-mail is on it's way. Bill D.
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Hello to you crazy guys in our 83-91 subgroup:
By way of a short into - I purchased my Avanti new at a dealer here in Wisconsin. I joined AOAI shortly thereafter. I joined this site I guess a few years ago, but am just starting to use it. Yes, I have had all the same issues as the rest of you with regards to body/interior problems and GM/Chevy quality control. I will get to those and other items in the future, but for now...
Although I do not consider myself much of a motorhead
I have tackeled my share of troubles on my own when I didn't know who else could or would, but mostly because I'm cheap 
I have the Workshop Manual and last year I ordered the re-built PowerWindow Regulator assembly (it's all there & ready to go) from Nostalgic $295 + 100 core charge (passenger side). I installed it (one of the most frustrating experiences of my life) and it worked - but not for long. Apparently the mounting holes in the fiberglass door have elongated so that the 3 bolts for the Regulator Pivot and the 4 bolts for the Regulator (with motor attached) are moving every which way with the torque of operation all the way up or all the way down. Tightening does not help. Nostalgic said I have to use "mud" for each hole - basically try and redo the holes. The major problem is where to start because you will never know if the fix worked until you're done. The regulator and the pivot have to be perfectly mounted versus each other or the whole mechanism will BIND-UP and STOP. So, is there another way of going about this without redoing the fiberglass holes? Say, fabricating an add-on patch plate/bracket. By the way, my Avanti is a daily driver (107,000mi).Bill Daly
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This round headlight thing can be a little confusing. I'm pretty sure you are talking about the actual headlight itself. Any Avanti made prior to the 1983 model year (Blake era) had round headlights. Now the headlight trim is different. The 1963 Avanti's all had round headlights and the trim was also round. Starting with the 1964 models the headlight was round but the headlight trim or bezel was square. This continued up until 1983 (with the 20th Anniversary Edition) when both the headlight and the surrounding trim were square. So basically the 1964 thru 1982 cars looked exactly the same - except for a federally mandated bumper change in the 70's that looked like they simply added-on a bumper bar with 2 big black rubber bumpers. Some one else can take it from here...
Bill Daly
'88 Vent Air-INLET?
in 1984-91 Avanti
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For as long as I have owned this car (1988) the vent air is HOT in the summer and I actually use it to WARM the vehicle in the Winter. Now I am getting the smell of antifreeze thru the vents BUT only AFTER the temp. reaches 160 degrees. I don't think it's the heater core (hope not) no leakage. Cannot find any leaks under the hood, but the vapor seems to be drawn in from the outside - SO where is the AIR INTAKE for the heater core box?
Bill D