wdaly
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Posts posted by wdaly
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If the console is anything like my (former) '88 coupe - it is secured by 4 simple clips at the corners. Pry from the side-s while pulling from shift boot hole.
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Perhaps I should keep this to myself, but since no one else has replied as of yet........... I'm seriously thinking don''t even worry about the leaf springs (they were almost made to rust under any other car conditions). You could possibly spray them with oil - maybe.
Bill D
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Bought it brand new from the sole WI Dealer - a Lincoln/Mercury dealer. It is driven 24/7 except early on for one Winter and again one year off (2010-11) as I was replacing the heater core, windshield (which I broke trying to remove the dash to replace the core), and right 'A' pillar (which I discovered was totally rusted thru while replacing the windshield)!!!!!!!!! Yeah.............. I have tried various treatments, but it is hopeless. We're talking body-OFF. I know one of our members from New Zealand has done this //// but I can't afford it.
Bill D
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It's worse than you think - I don't have 'Hog Troughs' but something WORSE. A convoluted metal system designed to attach the body to the frame that was made to RUST! I have pieces (chunks) falling off from time-to-time, and I'm missing at least one body mount (found the bolt lying on the garage floor one day years ago). I'm talking about the '87-88 Monte Carlo frames.
Bill D
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Update:
OK - I needed moral support on this one and got it. I loosened the striker with a T-50 Torx exactly one turn and with the handle of the ratchet wrench tapped it down very slightly and the door is almost like new. After I put the interior door panel back on I will determine if I may want to adjust the striker further out as well. Was wondering though - should the door latch slightly hit the top of the striker (as I have it), or totally clear it?
Thanks for the help!
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I have read all the articles as listed in the 'Roster' concerning sagging doors. My door is getting harder to close - the striker (GM) bolt has wear. My hinges appear OK according to a Bodyshop guy I know..
I'm considering adjusting the striker bolt very slightly down, but I have never done this before. I will pre-mark it's location, but I'm concerned about losing the backing plate if I loosen too much. Any recommendations would be appreciated. btw - interesting thing / when I removed the inside door panel the door closed way better!
Bill D
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My '88 has this located on the left rear side - way underneath - it is a very thin bare stranded wire. Check again. EDIT: OK, I'm back - I checked from the inside of my trunk cause my carpeting is removed due to wetness after every rain. So, the wire I'm talking about goes from the latch area to a hole where the wires go for the back-up lights and license plate lights.
Bill D
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Well.........on my '88 a foot long crease on the rocker panel just in front of the driver's side REAR wheel (been that way for years).
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Summer of 1963 I was a teenage caddy at the Evanston Golf Club in Illinois. There it was in the parking lot, my dream car, a turquoise Avanti - Big round headlights and everything!
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This is also the case with the '87-'88 Avanti-Carlos. The Monte Carlo rear section was cut (not sure how much). How do I know / how did I find out? One day I went to a Trailer Hitch place and told them to put a Monte Carlo hitch on - they came back and advised me of the missing needed rear portion!
Bill D
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Well, you caused me to go out and look at my '88 (305 w Stewart Warner gauges) Oil Gauge and I was surprised to find the needle at just below 30 (I thought it would be at 0)! Normal operating position is 40 and it can go down to 14 when at operating temp and idling. Almost seems like your gauge needle is simply misadjusted by about 32 psi - but if it reads correctly when running I would think that is OK. Without going to the trouble of reading my official GM manual I could imagine that the oil pressure gauge stops and stays at where it was last just before shutting the engine off (for some reason) btw my gauge will go above 40 if engine is cold and I drive fast..
Bill D
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I have moved my fuel gauge UP from it's original position so I could see it better (moved the vacuum gauge DOWN). I have an '88 coupe and (it helps to be a contortionist) you can remove the gauge without removing the dash (smaller fingers help also).
Start by tapping the gauge hard with your finger (old aviation trick) it might work.
You could remove the rear seat and fiberglass backing to reach the gas tank with the sending unit connections on top. The PINK wire should be the sending wire. btw - all of these wires are really small diameter.
We have Stewart Warner gauges (0-180 ohms I think) not GM-type 0 - 90 ohm.
Bill D
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Try looking in the trunk (under the rear shelf) that's where a lot of other car companies put them. Not much if any room behind the dash. FYI the cigar box computer for my '88 is wedged behind the passenger side dashboard.
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I'm almost certain the '90 has the 'gunsight' raised hood on the driver's side which means the windshield would come with the cut-out. All things considered (mostly cost of manufacture) it's probably the same. My local windshield repair place refused to do the job because they said they only replace windshields they can get. I told them I could get one, but they still refused! One thought is that they just don't know how to do the 'old fashion' install (ie. '50's & '60's). Anyway, because of the lack of trim pieces for your A-pillar, etc. (lucky you) I'm gonna have to say your windshield is installed just like most modern cars (easy). If you have trouble finding one I can look-up where I got mine a few years back (I have an '88).
Bill D
ps. The 1990 windshield probably has dark banding all around to cover-up the adhesive process so THAT would be different!
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I just sent you (I guess) a personal message concerning the 'extra instructions'.
Here is what I know:
The '89 has a whole new hood opening mechanism.
New trunk lifts/springs design.
No front vent window (some might though) so window mechanics probably different (couldn't be worse).
Rear vent windows are non operable.
Gas tank no longer behind rear seat.
Different windshield wiper motor (not sure about wiper crank-system though).
No carburetor.
Bill
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Bill:
Welcome to the Forum - good people here. First off I have an '88 Coupe so we have kinda different cars.
In case you didn't know your car is a Caprice so get yourself some Helms factory manuals.
Some of the inner parts/mechanisms may still be from the Stude days (mine does but yours probably not so much) maybe think about getting the 2 original Stude manuals or CD's.
My car came with an owners manual that was pretty much worthless.
As far as interior-type work someone here once a long time ago sent me the 'official' repair information (ie. how to remove the dash, etc) and this was helpful but not for your year car.
I've seen '89's and I'm gonna have to say the dash itself will need to be removed for the speedo (not fun).
I may still have my power antenna motor (but the shed doors are frozen shut). From what I remember this unit was a simple 'universal' type that you can probably still get.
I thru-out my radio (sorry) it didn't have CD capability!
Good Luck
Bill
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I just ordered one on Ebay ($15). Interesting thing - I was driving with the headlights on and happened to notice that both turn signal dash indicators were 'glowing' dimly. I can only attribute this (although I'm not an electrical engineer) to a feedback situation related to the filament side markers in front versus the LED turn signals as our GM wiring has the marker ground attached to the hi-power turn circuit for Ground / thus the alternating flash when the headlights are on. My understanding is if I used LED marker lights they would not flash at all with the headlights ON because of LED polarity issues. In any case I don't have a problem with the glowing indicator lights and I doubt the pig-tail flasher will change that, but I will install it anyway THANKS. btw the way to test for the polarity of a turn signal flasher mount is to set a voltmeter to 20V and place the red pin to the "X" location (according to what your flasher has marked) and the black to ground. With the ignition 'On' if you get a 12V reading then the "X" position truly is the Power/Battery vs "L" for Load. If you don't get a 12V reading move the red pin to "L" to see if the set-up is reverse polarity. I just received 2 V-leds 3 ohm load resistors for my Camry project. These things are well designed and built. I also ordered the pigtail adapters to give me more mounting location choices. I only bring this up because I haven't seen 3 ohm load resistors available anywhere else.
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Hi Wopony12:
Actually, I finished this project a few days ago (it took some doing though). I ordered the black flasher #CF12ANL-01. The only other 2 prong flasher was the RED one except the power/battery prong location was 180degress wrong! Long story short - the flasher did nothing. I found an old EF (electromechanical / one step up from thermal) flasher and it actually worked, but only if I kept at least 2 of the rear light bulbs as filament instead of all LED. I have 2 leds located towards the middle (where the back-up lights were on the older cars). Interestingly (and quite cool) the leds flash a split second before the others so that I'm getting a sequential light flash from middle to side.
What turned out to be a royal pain was installing the leds into the 2 front turn signal sockets (they wanted no part of it and I broke one of my $15 Led's just trying to push and turn into the socket). I eventually wound up accidentally using the Sylvania Zevo Hi-Power white for the front, but again only after using my Dremel to carefully cut off a part that was preventing the bulb socket from clearing the ground prong on the side of the socket that came with the car. Even then one of the bulbs fell out of the socket as I was trying to install it into the light fixture hole (not much room behind there). Some day I might look into replacing the 1157 socket with a 3157 socket IF I can find one that actually matches the hole-tab design of what we have (Ford or GM?).
A couple of notes: Phillips and Sylvania LEDS are out there, but just try and find them in Amber for 1157. Also, 2 prong flashers do not seem to be available at local parts stores if you're looking for the Electronic type (too Old-Fashioned?). Finally, (I guess) my understanding is that if your left and right front and rear turn signals are on the same circuit (one for left & one for right) you can simply install a 3ohm load resistor (one on each side) for a total of just two to be able to add just enough resistance to operate all LEDs without using 4 load resistors (I'll probably break down and try this on my Camry by only hooking-up 2 3ohm load resistors in the trunk area left and right to get front and back turn signals to work).
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I haven't seen any discusiion regarding LED turn signal retros here. I know someone has made LED replacement lights for the rear and recently a magazine article referred to the use of Load Resistors.
A loooong time ago I otdered LED bulbs from JC Whitney. They were the 'Forward Firing Cluster' type and were not even as good as the old filament bulbs (and they hyper-flashed).
It seems as if (I haven't tried it yet) we can forgo the load resistors and replace both the turn signal AND hazard flasher relays with ones that work with LEDs. Check out Superbrightleds (.com) and input your car (mine is 1988 Chevy Monte Carlo) and WALA! They have them and for as much or less than the resistors. These are square units and may not fit every situation (on the '87-'88 Avanti the mounting location has no interference vs the original round flashers). They do Not make any clicking noise though. Also, some people (not necessarily GM-types) have had to reverse the polarity on the flashers to get them to work (simple cross wiring (?).
I bring this up because I really can't see using the load resistors as their is no benefit to power use reduction and they get Hot. Also, I did do this kind of flasher/swap on my son's Corolla and it was perfect. Can't do it on my Camry (no flasher).
We are kind of lucky in that we don't have to worry about Canbus (?) or CK sockets. I recommend only 'Tower' type LEDs and for our use the smaller number of LEDs. FYI: they say you should use the same color LED bulb as the color of the lense.
I have replaced some of the interior lights with LED and what-a-difference!
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H4 aka HB2 & 9003 60/55W (halogen):
I've had them in my '88 for years mostly for the 'newer' composite look vs sealed beam - nice & updated look just to see in the daytime. I started with the Hella composites (fearing no more sealed beam availability). Changed to a different (better looking style) Not Pilot (cheap) but similar (wish I could show a picture). The thing is if you ever have to change the bulb you still have to remove the whole light just like a sealed beam since the light buckett is not open to the rear. And I did have to use a hole saw on the buckett to get the actual composite light fixture to fit in. No probs with heat or the heat of the law!
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I had to read your message a few times in order to understand - so, you have ONE exhaust pipe coming from the Cat Conv that connects to a muffler that is located underneath the trunk area - And this muffler has TWO tail pipe exhausts coming OUT of it?
My '88 Coupe has 2 exhaust pipes that are split from one larger pipe after the Cat Conv - the 2 mufflers are Before the rear axle.
I'm pretty sure this is std. for GM (Monte Carlo). Sounds like yours (unless you are the original owner as am I) was changed. I kinda like yours if this is the case since I have replaced mine (glass packs) many times and the 2 pipe system ain't CHEAP! How is that 1 muffler attached under your trunk?
Bill D
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Was told by mechanic, the radiator on my 88 is not a GM radiator. Any truth or is it BS?
The radiator (according to Mike Kelly) is from Acme Radiator Goshen, IN. My mechanic says it's Not from GM (think it's smaller but thicker). I've had mine re-cored Twice since I bought it New.
Bill D
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The one I saw the neighbor was not the Colonel - I'm pretty sure the Colonel was the FIRST neighbor.
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OR - you could unplug the wiring from the 'good' switch and plug-in the 'bad' switch harness to the known 'good' switch and see what happens.
AOAI Magazine #180
in Avanti Pub
Posted
We are truly fortunate to have Mr. Schucart!