Gunslinger
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Posts posted by Gunslinger
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I frequent other forums as well, primarily Corvette forums and the discussions are quite lively on this subject. There's also a lot of misinformation out there as well.
Essentially, due to EPA regulatory changes, auto manufacturers have required zinc (ZDDP) to be nearly eliminated from motor oils. This is not a big deal for new cars as roller rocker valve train assemblies are used now which eliminates the need for the extreme pressure protection ZDDP provides. Older design engines with flat tappet valve trains need this, particularly with new camshafts which need to be broken in properly. The last few years have seen a spike in early camshaft failures, often with less than 1000 miles on them. Part of the problem has been poor quality cam castings and lifters, particularly from China, and lack of proper lubrication due to not enough ZDDP in the oils.
In short, if you have a flat tappet engine, many say you need an oil with sufficient ZDDP, which is being completely or almost completely phased out of modern oils. One of the most popular additives has been GM EOS, which contained the additives required. Now, even EOS has been reformulated and may not be sufficient. The parts manager at a local GM dealership told me that EOS is simply GM's version of STP. STP has ZDDP additives...especially the red container made for four cylinder engines. Since all this controversy has been going on, STP in the red container has been difficult to find from so many buying it up. The law of supply and demand rears its ugly head!
Even Shell Rotella, which has been a very popular oil for its ZDDP contents is being reformulated with less to meet future EPA requirements. There are some other oils that do carry the proper amounts of ZDDP, but are on the expensive side...racing oils such as Joe Gibbs Oil. Mobil is also coming out with a synthetic oil for older engines.
It's not enough we have such problems maintaining and rebuilding older cars, much less orphans such as Studebakers and Avanti's, but now we'll have headaches with finding the proper oils for them. Or...just go buy some STP which Studebaker was doing all along!
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It sure looks that way! I have no idea if it's poor retouching by an ad agency way back when or an optical illusion from the angle one looks at it. Either way, it's odd.
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On my '70 I have Sanderson headers installed. They're the block hugger design and are ceramic coated. From what I've seen, Sanderson is about as good as it gets for headers...they have the thickest flanges I've ever seen on a header which goes a long way to keeping from warping or the bolts from backing out and creating leaks. In any case, most any brand block hugger design headers should work.
For the rest of the exhaust system I had a 2 1/2" pipe installed all the way back with Magnaflow mufflers. I'm not sure, but I think the speed shop that fabricated the system may have had to pinch the pipes slightly where they pass through the frame openings to keep them from rattling.
The only other issue I can think of was the shop had to fabricate a different backup light and neutral safety switch arrangement as the stock setup was too close to the exhaust pipe on that side, but this may have been more due to having a 700R4 installed and it's somewhat larger size compared to the original Borg Warner Power Shift than the larger exhaust pipes by themselves.
Any good custom shop or exhaust shop equipped with a pipe bender should be able to handle a new exhaust system for you.
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The Timken numbers are Set 2 for the outer bearings and Set 6 for the inner bearings. NAPA numbers are BR6 and BR2.
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Since you have a GM tranny behind a GM engine, I would imagine any universal cable for a GM car of that vintage would work. When I had a 700R4 installed in my '70 a universal cable worked fine.
I would check some speed shops or Corvette or Chevelle sources.
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I have the Edelbrock EFI in my '70 and it took some custom machining to be able to use the air cleaner I wanted so it would clear. I could have gone other routes for an air cleaner, and would have if the custom shop was unable to do as they did.
I would think TPI would clear the hood, but an air cleaner may have to be custom fabricated, but parts for doing so are pretty available. Look at the custom speed section of stores like Pep Boys and catalogs like Summit Racing, Jegs, Speedway Motors and the like. Due to the contours of an Avanti hood I think you'd be very lucky to find an air cleaner assembly from another car that would drop in.
When I was looking for possible alternatives for an air cleaner for my car if my preferred system wouldn't work, I found there was lots of mix and match type parts out there and something could have worked. I realize TPI uses and completely different plenum and throttle body design than than the Edelbrock carburetor style throttle body, you should be able to come up with something.
Besides stores like Pep Boys and sites like Summit Racing, look at manufacturers like K&N, S&B and others. They have a huge selection of air filter configurations.
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It's available for pre-order on Amazon.com for about $23.00. I placed my order for it already.
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It should be a very available alternator...you should be able to find a replacement at any NAPA dealer, or Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc. You can also buy a brand new aftermarket replacement from Summit Racing or Jegs.
You can also take it to any auto electrical rebuilder and have it rebuilt with new bearings, etc.
I'm a bit surprised your garage guy didn't know this and make a recommendation. GM alternators are not the least bit rare.
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and from what I've heard elsewhere you can't plant it in a Avanti anyway.
Jim Wood
You have an excellent point. Due to the front end bias getting the rear tires to hook up in an Avanti can be problematic. It takes removing a lot of weight off the front end, adding a lot of weight in the rear (or both) to gain usable traction. That's one reason why my '70 smokes the tires so easily, if not the main reason. With a more power engine with EFI, the gearing of the 700R4, an aluminum driveshaft and composite rear leaf springs, it's no wonder you have to be careful starting off to save the tires from premature wear!
I remember reading in Andy Granatelli's book "They Call Me Mister 500!", that to gain traction at Bonneville they put several hundred pounds of chains in the trunk.
I'm sure it takes guys who ever drag raced Avanti's a lot of effort and practice to get the best from it.
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Charlie...
Replacing the whole thing is what I did...GM Performance 350HO crate engine with the EFI installed and a 700R4 behind it. I considered the GM Ramjet EFI but was told by a speed shop owner I trust that GM was having some problems with it in service, plus it's a tall system. I thought there would be definite clearance problem as well. I went with the Edelbrock system since it's a proven system and I've always had high respect for Edelbrock products.
You'll find with the serpentine belt system, unless you plan on installing electric fans, you'll have to modify the fan shroud. It requires a few notches cut. That and you'll need a reverse rotation fan and fan clutch.
I understand when you said "Lots more power an at the same time probably better fuel economy depending of course on how it's driven!" It takes no effort at all to smoke the tires in the first three gears!
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TPI is an excellent system to use. I think the headaches you'll run into are making sure you get the complete system from the donor car, plus you'll need an electric fuel pump. The ecu from the donor car may have to get a custom tuned chip to match the 305, transmission and rear end ratio specs of your Avanti. It's nothing that can't be done, but it may well take time and a lot of headaches getting things correct.
You might be better off by buying a standalone system like the Edelbrock Pro-Flo or Holley Commander EFI. They come complete with everything needed but are not inexpensive compared to getting used parts from a donor car.
I have the Edelbrock Pro-Flo on my '70 and am completely happy with how it runs. It took a bit of time to get it dialed in, but it does run excellent. There was also a bit of fabrication needed to fit up an air cleaner but there are lots of options to doing that.
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When it screeches, that would indicate a belt problem...either stretched, glazed or not adjusted properly, or a combination of those. An alternator bearing going bad would be obvious at all rpm's.
The mileage certainly doesn't mean the alternator is in need of replacement. My daily driver has 114k miles on it and I have had no problems with the alternator, but that doesn't mean it can't go out tomorrow either.
Give the belt a good visual inspection. If it looks good, try spraying some silicone spray or belt dressing on the belt as the car is idling and with the rpm's being run up and see if the squeal goes away. If it does, replace the belt.
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If your stock alternator isn't up to the job, it may be because of a bad internal regulator, slipping belt. etc. It would be hard to imagine your alternator can't handle the load of factory options.
I'm guessing your stock alternator is probably in the 65 amp range, maybe a bit more. The stock Prestolite in a Stude Avanti was 40 amp back in '63.
If you feel an upgrade is necessary, you could probably go with up to about a 105 amp alternator without having to upgrade your car's wiring. Look at either Summit Racing or Jegs catalog for replacement alternators with built-in regulators. They should bolt right on, but you might have to use a different length belt, but maybe not.
On my '70 Avanti a 105 amp alternator was added with the crate engine and the additional amperage created no issues for the stock wiring harness.
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MikeValent is correct...Nostalgic Motors has the washer reservoir you need. They also have the coolant tank as well, though you can probably find an identical unit at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA as well.
The a/c compressor should be easily sourced from most auto supply stores. They may require your old compressor in trade. You'll need to add a new receiver/dryer as well...it standard procedure anytime you open up your a/c system.
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1) My understanding is the mirrors were installed by the dealer, even if they were a factory option. I also understand that for 1963, the mirrors tended to be on the tops of the front fenders and in '64 they tended to be mounted more often on the doors. Maybe someone else will chime in with better information. I would say mount them wherever you best like them and that provides best view. I don't believe there is any specific correct location.
2) There are well nuts available for proper securing of the screws for mirrors. Studebaker International and Nostalgic Motors have them, probably other sources as well. They're also very inexpensive so use what's designed for them.
3) If the head of the mirror is loose, about all you can do is replace the entire assembly. New reproductions are available from sources mentioned already. There's a used mirror on Ebay right now for significantly less than new (if someone hasn't already bought it).
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The king-pin suspension may be old school and is very robust, but like many old design suspensions, it's very maintenance and lubrication dependent. Any Studebaker or Stude framed Avanti needs its suspension lubricated very regularly. If not, excessive wear is the result. There are numerous grease fittings to hit...not like current designs with sealed joints.
If, in fact, your suspension needs rebuilding, parts are easily obtainable. You can buy either kits to rebuild your parts yourself, or get complete rebuilt parts to simply install and send your old parts back for cores, thus keeping them "in the food chain" for eventual use by other Stude and Avanti owners. My understanding is rebuilding your king pins yourself is not difficult, but a dirty and greasy job, so it's up to you.
Parts and complete suspension kits are available. Try Jon Myers Studebaker, Studebaker International or Dan and Betty Booth at Nostalgic Motors. All are excellent to deal with and can give you great advice.
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The bolt circle is 5 x 4 1/2". It stayed that way until they went to a GM platform in the mid-1980's. As long as the car is on the original Stude design chassis it has a 4 1/2" bolt circle...same as Ford, Mopar and American Motors of the same era.
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On the a/c compressor, it depends on what make compressor your car has. It could be a GM A-6 compressor, which is the very heavy and long unit, the GM R-4 radial compressor, or possibly something different yet. I would suspect it's one of the GM units. If so, you should be able to buy a rebuilt replacement at many auto supply stores like NAPA, Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Auto Zone or a GM dealership. Also be advised once you open your system up the receiver/dryer needs to be replaced. Even if your car might have one of the old York compressors, they're available as well.
I'm not familiar what expansion tank an '82 uses for the cooling system. Does it have the modified Stude tank or the plastic tank mounted in the corner by the hood hinge? If it's the plastic type, there are universal tanks on the market that will fit.
I'm also not familiar with what washer fluid reservoir an '82 uses...the vinyl bag that hangs on the right inside fender apron or the plastic one mounted on the cowl behind the brake booster? The vinyl bags are available from Studebaker International...they're also interchangeable with some Ford and American Motors cars of the '60s. The plastic tank...don't know a replacement source but if it's cracked, there should be some repair stuff on the market. Try J-B Weld you can buy in Wal Mart or similar stores. You might also check with Eastwood...they have many products for automotive repair and may have just what you need.
Repair of tach...contact Stewart Warner for advice. Also check the AOAI magazine. There are vendors advertising in there that repair gauges. It may not be the gauge itself...it could be the sending unit if it has a separate sending unit like in earlier Avanti's.
Replacement brake cylinder...contact Jon Myer's Studebaker, Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors or Studebaker International. Any of them should be able to fix you up.
Replacement radio...that car is sooo obsolete for radios that fit. Custom Autosound makes a drop-in radio with cassette, but I've heard little good about the quality of them. Your options are somewhat limited for a modern radio. There are rebuilders out there as well as specialists who can convert your radio from AM/FM to stereo, etc. A web search should find some of them. Otherwise you'll have to modify your dash opening to receive a modern slide-in stereo/CD player. That would include removing the dash. While my car was being rebuilt, I had the dash out anyway so that's when I had mine done. There are also those who have installed a drop-in type radio wired to a remote CD changer in the glove box or trunk.
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Avanti Motors used the Studebaker steering column up through 1970. If you can find a Nardi kit that interchanges with a Grant 4286 installation kit it's what you want. Besides Avanti's through '70, it's the same kit for a '63 Ford Fairlane and '63-'64 full-sized Fords.
For all I know the Grant kit may work with Nardi steering wheels. The Grant kit is available from Summit Racing for less than $20.
To make sure, call Jon Myers at Myers Studebaker. He knows more about these cars than anyone else I know.
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Check with the Studebaker National Museum in their museum shop. They have numerous films available and may have what you're looking for.
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It should be on the door jamb close to the lock receiver or whatever it's called. If you open the driver's door and look on the body by the lock receiver you should see it.
If the owner has a title for the car, I don't know what problem California would have registering it. If it came from a non-title state, I don't know what the procedure would be. Back then, few cars came with more than one VIN plate, I don't believe it was mandatory until a few years later, though a number of manufacturers did do it. I don't believe Avanti Motors did it until later.
If your neighbor can't come up with documentation to satisfy California or find the VIN, many states will assign their own VIN for the car and provide a VIN plate.
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There should be an ID plate on the driver's side body either above or below the door lock, along with a sticker of what government standards it either meets or is exempt from.
The only other one I'm aware of is there may be (don't know what year they started this), is an embossed label attached to the back of the driver's side of the padded dash cover. The unfortunate thing is you have to remove the dash to see it. I don't think they started that as early as '67. For a '67 the VIN will start with "RQ-A"
If the factory ID plate is missing, you're pretty much out of luck unless you have some documentation with the car. Engine numbers are basically Chevy codes, but they are recorded in the car's build sheet. That's saying the car has its original engine still. Build sheets are available through Dan and Betty Booth at Nostalgic Motors.
What's the reason? Are you looking at a car to buy that has no readable VIN?
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Sorry if I'm repeating -- still learning forum functionality.
I have wire wheels on my car. The brakes just seem very weak, maybe I'm comparing them to new car brake effectiveness. I have a local garage that I trust -- are Avanti II brakes unique enough that they wouldn't be able to check and repair brakes if necessary?
Thanks everyone for your generous advice. I'm new to Avanti ownership and this is all so helpful.
Tim "Kellerbear"
The disc brakes used by Studebaker and Avanti Motors present no problem to any good tech. There is some variation from other designs but nothing to cause alarm. Bendix licensed the design from Dunlop and they're essentially lifted from many Jaguars of the period as well as some Datsuns from the mid-60's. Actually, the calipers on my '70, instead of saying Bendix have Sumitomo cast into the caliper housings. It just shows the design was licensed to other companies as well and Avanti Motors must have purchased them from whatever supplier could meet the design specs.
I do understand what you say about comparing them to new car effectiveness. They do have a different feel to the brakes compared to newer cars, but brake design is far more advanced now. The disc brakes on these Avanti's were adapted from Jaguars which weight significantly less and gave a good safety margin. Put those same brakes on a much heavier Avanti and while the design is certainly adequate, the safety factor is less. Basically it's an adequate brake system, but toward the outer edge of its capabilities.
The stock system will do all that's reasonably requested of it. If you want to upgrade, have at it. Make sure your wheels will clear the upgraded calipers. If they don't, that's an expense that really boosts the total cost of the conversion.
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What wheels do you have for your car or will install? Before my '70 was redone, I considered the Turner or Steeltech brake conversions. Both told me their systems either would not be compatible or they didn't think their conversions would be compatible with Magnum 500 wheels, which my car has. I didn't want to change to a bigger diameter wheel as I had already bought new tires for the car and didn't care to do that again plus new wheels, plus I like the look of the Magnum 500 on an Avanti.
The stock brake system works well so I really had no need to change it, but had the Magnum 500's been compatible, I still may have done the conversion.
Power Steering Pulley
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Is it a GM power steering pump? If so, it's probably a standard GM application for that year...look under Corvette 300hp.