Gunslinger
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Posts posted by Gunslinger
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That steering wheel came on many later Avanti's, maybe it was even standard. And I agree with you...it is strange looking.
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If there's anything you want to ask you don't feel asking on the board, simply send one of us a private message. I don't think anyone would mind that.
For me, I have no information on the VIN sequencing of the Avanti over the years, but I have read that cars weren't always assembled in VIN sequence. For instance, Avanti Motors ran the RQA and RQB cars concurrently until the RQA cars were discontinued during the 1970 model year. I've read in one source the RQB cars were started at RQB1500 but I've also seen the AOAI register cars listed with RQB VIN's much lower than that. Without complete records of production and sales, I don't see how anyone can compile an accurate list of cars completed. It's obvious you can't go by VIN numbers alone.
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There are many books on the small block Chevy available. Just check your local Borders, Barnes & Noble or even Amazon.com. I would suggest going to the book store so you can page through and see if any particular is what you want as the 400, while a small block, has some differences from the rest. Some books are more about performance upgrades and some are about the rebuilding of stock engines. The 400 was basically used for sedans and station wagons...it's not a performance engine like the 350's installed in Vettes and Camaro's.
You will find the standard '63-'64 shop manual a huge help, but you'll also find there are some differences between what it lists and what Avanti Motors did on some aspects of the car. The wiring harness is different for the Avanti II's, though the schematic in the manual is still a great help. You will run into certain things Avanti Motors did different...sometimes out of necessity due to lack of original parts, or for added options not available when Studebaker made the car. If your car has a rear window defogger, it's not mentioned in the manual as it wasn't an option. The same goes for sunroofs. Starting in 1970 with the RQB models, they installed a transistorized ignition, about '71 or '72 there was a change in rear brake hardware, later they changed the parking brake lever...these are things you find out sometimes the hard way and by asking questions. There were many running changes.
By and large, the Studebaker shop manual and a good small block Chevy manual and a GM transmission book are all you'll need. For what things don't fit under any of those categories, ask here. Many of us have gone through rebuilding an Avanti II and found what interchanges or modifications will work.
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You can contact Nostalgic Motors at 1-800-AVANTI-1 or through their website <www.avantiparts.net>. There are other excellent Avanti vendors and sources of information out there...like Studebaker International and Jon Myers, but for an '87 Avanti Dan and Betty Booth are probably your best source.
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Welcome to the group! There's a lot of experience and help here so don't be afraid to ask questions.
I don't know the number of convertibles made, but it's not very many...certainly less than 100 and that may well be a generously high number.
It definitely looks like a project car but it's worth saving. If I'm not mistaken, it's built on a Chevrolet chassis...either a Monte Carlo or El Camino but hopefully someone else will give more accurate information. Being a Chevy platform rebuilding the chassis shouldn't be much of a problem. Most drive train parts will be standard GM as well. It's the body and interior stuff that can drive you crazy sourcing.
Your best bet for many parts will be Dan and Betty Booth at Nostalgic Motors. They seem to be the best source of parts and information for the late South Bend and Youngstown Avanti's.
Again...welcome and don't be afraid to ask questions, and keep us advised of the progress...and TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES! Besides it documenting the rebuilding process, it can help a lot of others who may be tackling their own project.
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There are add-on third brake light kits you can get from JC Whitney, Summit Racing, Jegs, and some hot rod catalogs. The wiring is probably pretty simple but I've never tried it.
JMenaker has installed one in his Avanti I believe, but I don't know where he got it from. If he happens to see your question I'm sure he can answer it.
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Is it a GM power steering pump? If so, it's probably a standard GM application for that year...look under Corvette 300hp.
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I frequent other forums as well, primarily Corvette forums and the discussions are quite lively on this subject. There's also a lot of misinformation out there as well.
Essentially, due to EPA regulatory changes, auto manufacturers have required zinc (ZDDP) to be nearly eliminated from motor oils. This is not a big deal for new cars as roller rocker valve train assemblies are used now which eliminates the need for the extreme pressure protection ZDDP provides. Older design engines with flat tappet valve trains need this, particularly with new camshafts which need to be broken in properly. The last few years have seen a spike in early camshaft failures, often with less than 1000 miles on them. Part of the problem has been poor quality cam castings and lifters, particularly from China, and lack of proper lubrication due to not enough ZDDP in the oils.
In short, if you have a flat tappet engine, many say you need an oil with sufficient ZDDP, which is being completely or almost completely phased out of modern oils. One of the most popular additives has been GM EOS, which contained the additives required. Now, even EOS has been reformulated and may not be sufficient. The parts manager at a local GM dealership told me that EOS is simply GM's version of STP. STP has ZDDP additives...especially the red container made for four cylinder engines. Since all this controversy has been going on, STP in the red container has been difficult to find from so many buying it up. The law of supply and demand rears its ugly head!
Even Shell Rotella, which has been a very popular oil for its ZDDP contents is being reformulated with less to meet future EPA requirements. There are some other oils that do carry the proper amounts of ZDDP, but are on the expensive side...racing oils such as Joe Gibbs Oil. Mobil is also coming out with a synthetic oil for older engines.
It's not enough we have such problems maintaining and rebuilding older cars, much less orphans such as Studebakers and Avanti's, but now we'll have headaches with finding the proper oils for them. Or...just go buy some STP which Studebaker was doing all along!
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It sure looks that way! I have no idea if it's poor retouching by an ad agency way back when or an optical illusion from the angle one looks at it. Either way, it's odd.
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On my '70 I have Sanderson headers installed. They're the block hugger design and are ceramic coated. From what I've seen, Sanderson is about as good as it gets for headers...they have the thickest flanges I've ever seen on a header which goes a long way to keeping from warping or the bolts from backing out and creating leaks. In any case, most any brand block hugger design headers should work.
For the rest of the exhaust system I had a 2 1/2" pipe installed all the way back with Magnaflow mufflers. I'm not sure, but I think the speed shop that fabricated the system may have had to pinch the pipes slightly where they pass through the frame openings to keep them from rattling.
The only other issue I can think of was the shop had to fabricate a different backup light and neutral safety switch arrangement as the stock setup was too close to the exhaust pipe on that side, but this may have been more due to having a 700R4 installed and it's somewhat larger size compared to the original Borg Warner Power Shift than the larger exhaust pipes by themselves.
Any good custom shop or exhaust shop equipped with a pipe bender should be able to handle a new exhaust system for you.
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The Timken numbers are Set 2 for the outer bearings and Set 6 for the inner bearings. NAPA numbers are BR6 and BR2.
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Since you have a GM tranny behind a GM engine, I would imagine any universal cable for a GM car of that vintage would work. When I had a 700R4 installed in my '70 a universal cable worked fine.
I would check some speed shops or Corvette or Chevelle sources.
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I have the Edelbrock EFI in my '70 and it took some custom machining to be able to use the air cleaner I wanted so it would clear. I could have gone other routes for an air cleaner, and would have if the custom shop was unable to do as they did.
I would think TPI would clear the hood, but an air cleaner may have to be custom fabricated, but parts for doing so are pretty available. Look at the custom speed section of stores like Pep Boys and catalogs like Summit Racing, Jegs, Speedway Motors and the like. Due to the contours of an Avanti hood I think you'd be very lucky to find an air cleaner assembly from another car that would drop in.
When I was looking for possible alternatives for an air cleaner for my car if my preferred system wouldn't work, I found there was lots of mix and match type parts out there and something could have worked. I realize TPI uses and completely different plenum and throttle body design than than the Edelbrock carburetor style throttle body, you should be able to come up with something.
Besides stores like Pep Boys and sites like Summit Racing, look at manufacturers like K&N, S&B and others. They have a huge selection of air filter configurations.
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It's available for pre-order on Amazon.com for about $23.00. I placed my order for it already.
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It should be a very available alternator...you should be able to find a replacement at any NAPA dealer, or Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc. You can also buy a brand new aftermarket replacement from Summit Racing or Jegs.
You can also take it to any auto electrical rebuilder and have it rebuilt with new bearings, etc.
I'm a bit surprised your garage guy didn't know this and make a recommendation. GM alternators are not the least bit rare.
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and from what I've heard elsewhere you can't plant it in a Avanti anyway.
Jim Wood
You have an excellent point. Due to the front end bias getting the rear tires to hook up in an Avanti can be problematic. It takes removing a lot of weight off the front end, adding a lot of weight in the rear (or both) to gain usable traction. That's one reason why my '70 smokes the tires so easily, if not the main reason. With a more power engine with EFI, the gearing of the 700R4, an aluminum driveshaft and composite rear leaf springs, it's no wonder you have to be careful starting off to save the tires from premature wear!
I remember reading in Andy Granatelli's book "They Call Me Mister 500!", that to gain traction at Bonneville they put several hundred pounds of chains in the trunk.
I'm sure it takes guys who ever drag raced Avanti's a lot of effort and practice to get the best from it.
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Charlie...
Replacing the whole thing is what I did...GM Performance 350HO crate engine with the EFI installed and a 700R4 behind it. I considered the GM Ramjet EFI but was told by a speed shop owner I trust that GM was having some problems with it in service, plus it's a tall system. I thought there would be definite clearance problem as well. I went with the Edelbrock system since it's a proven system and I've always had high respect for Edelbrock products.
You'll find with the serpentine belt system, unless you plan on installing electric fans, you'll have to modify the fan shroud. It requires a few notches cut. That and you'll need a reverse rotation fan and fan clutch.
I understand when you said "Lots more power an at the same time probably better fuel economy depending of course on how it's driven!" It takes no effort at all to smoke the tires in the first three gears!
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TPI is an excellent system to use. I think the headaches you'll run into are making sure you get the complete system from the donor car, plus you'll need an electric fuel pump. The ecu from the donor car may have to get a custom tuned chip to match the 305, transmission and rear end ratio specs of your Avanti. It's nothing that can't be done, but it may well take time and a lot of headaches getting things correct.
You might be better off by buying a standalone system like the Edelbrock Pro-Flo or Holley Commander EFI. They come complete with everything needed but are not inexpensive compared to getting used parts from a donor car.
I have the Edelbrock Pro-Flo on my '70 and am completely happy with how it runs. It took a bit of time to get it dialed in, but it does run excellent. There was also a bit of fabrication needed to fit up an air cleaner but there are lots of options to doing that.
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When it screeches, that would indicate a belt problem...either stretched, glazed or not adjusted properly, or a combination of those. An alternator bearing going bad would be obvious at all rpm's.
The mileage certainly doesn't mean the alternator is in need of replacement. My daily driver has 114k miles on it and I have had no problems with the alternator, but that doesn't mean it can't go out tomorrow either.
Give the belt a good visual inspection. If it looks good, try spraying some silicone spray or belt dressing on the belt as the car is idling and with the rpm's being run up and see if the squeal goes away. If it does, replace the belt.
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If your stock alternator isn't up to the job, it may be because of a bad internal regulator, slipping belt. etc. It would be hard to imagine your alternator can't handle the load of factory options.
I'm guessing your stock alternator is probably in the 65 amp range, maybe a bit more. The stock Prestolite in a Stude Avanti was 40 amp back in '63.
If you feel an upgrade is necessary, you could probably go with up to about a 105 amp alternator without having to upgrade your car's wiring. Look at either Summit Racing or Jegs catalog for replacement alternators with built-in regulators. They should bolt right on, but you might have to use a different length belt, but maybe not.
On my '70 Avanti a 105 amp alternator was added with the crate engine and the additional amperage created no issues for the stock wiring harness.
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MikeValent is correct...Nostalgic Motors has the washer reservoir you need. They also have the coolant tank as well, though you can probably find an identical unit at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA as well.
The a/c compressor should be easily sourced from most auto supply stores. They may require your old compressor in trade. You'll need to add a new receiver/dryer as well...it standard procedure anytime you open up your a/c system.
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1) My understanding is the mirrors were installed by the dealer, even if they were a factory option. I also understand that for 1963, the mirrors tended to be on the tops of the front fenders and in '64 they tended to be mounted more often on the doors. Maybe someone else will chime in with better information. I would say mount them wherever you best like them and that provides best view. I don't believe there is any specific correct location.
2) There are well nuts available for proper securing of the screws for mirrors. Studebaker International and Nostalgic Motors have them, probably other sources as well. They're also very inexpensive so use what's designed for them.
3) If the head of the mirror is loose, about all you can do is replace the entire assembly. New reproductions are available from sources mentioned already. There's a used mirror on Ebay right now for significantly less than new (if someone hasn't already bought it).
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The king-pin suspension may be old school and is very robust, but like many old design suspensions, it's very maintenance and lubrication dependent. Any Studebaker or Stude framed Avanti needs its suspension lubricated very regularly. If not, excessive wear is the result. There are numerous grease fittings to hit...not like current designs with sealed joints.
If, in fact, your suspension needs rebuilding, parts are easily obtainable. You can buy either kits to rebuild your parts yourself, or get complete rebuilt parts to simply install and send your old parts back for cores, thus keeping them "in the food chain" for eventual use by other Stude and Avanti owners. My understanding is rebuilding your king pins yourself is not difficult, but a dirty and greasy job, so it's up to you.
Parts and complete suspension kits are available. Try Jon Myers Studebaker, Studebaker International or Dan and Betty Booth at Nostalgic Motors. All are excellent to deal with and can give you great advice.
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The bolt circle is 5 x 4 1/2". It stayed that way until they went to a GM platform in the mid-1980's. As long as the car is on the original Stude design chassis it has a 4 1/2" bolt circle...same as Ford, Mopar and American Motors of the same era.
'89 Avanti Conver on e-Bay
in 1984-91 Avanti
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That's essentially a rebodied Chevrolet so everything would be as it would in a Caprice, Monte Carlo or whatever chassis was used. That serpentine belt system makes for a different accessory layout. The Avanti body contours and panels were, by necessity, adapted to the chassis, not engineered to be an Avanti with a traditional Avanti layout of everything.