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Gunslinger

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Posts posted by Gunslinger

  1. I recently had the 700R4 swap done in my '70 for the Borg-Warner and can give you some insight. Some would be the same, maybe some would not.

    Essentially, what I found out was to rebuild the BW would, for all intents and purposes, cost as much as the swap to a 700R4. About the only major difference was the need for a new driveshaft. The change to a TH350 may require a new driveshaft as well...that I don't know.

    The transmission support required relocating, but that was no problem. Just mark and drill holes for the new location and bolt it in.

    The TH350 may or may not require modifications to the transmission tunnel. It seems some people have had to do so and some didn't. The 700R4 swap for me didn't require any. The linkages had to be fabricated as well as the neutral safety switch and back-up light switch as the originals wouldn't work with the swap.

    You'll need a new flexplate but they're pretty inexpensive. You'll also need a new torque converter...not inexpensive but not prohibitively so. One may come provided with a transmission.

    When you buy a new driveshaft, you can get an aluminum unit. A bit more expensive but worth the money. It reduces weight off the car and reduces rotating mass the engine has to turn over.

    The TH350, as the 700R4, requires a vacuum hookup to the engine intake manifold. Not a problem but you'll have to tap into an exisiting vaccum line or install a fitting on the intake which would be the preferable course.

    Check with Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors or Jon Myers of Myers Studebaker...they can give you all the advice you need about what's required and probably have most of the conversion parts in stock.

  2. That photo is of one of the two convertible prototypes. I'm not sure on every point, but I believe the photo is of the first prototype, which was based on a '78 that was converted in the mid 1980's at the request of Steve Blake.

    The prototypes were contracted out to to different custom shops. The reason I believe that car is the first is due to the high convertible top boot instead of one made more flush with the body, and I read the first conversion was like that. Production cars had the top fold down much more flush with the body. All production cars were also rubber bumper cars...only the two prototypes have chrome bumpers.

    I'm also not sure but I believe the convertible top mechanisms on production cars were modified GM systems but I don't know from what GM cars they were modified from.

  3. The P215/70R15 is a good size for Avanti's. I used to sell tires and still try and keep up with the market and what's available. Due to that connection I've developed some prejudices both pro and con on different tires and manufacturers. Other's certainly have different opinions and thoughts on tires than I do. To my way of thinking, tire choices are so important that even the best tires are barely god enough considering the role they play in safety and performance.

    I have a '69 Corvette that uses the same size as my '70 Avanti. On the Vette I purchased Cooper Lifeliner SLE Touring tires with white stripes...for the Avanti I got Cooper Cobra redline tires. The Vette got white stripe tires to give it its original appearance according to its window sticker (though radials weren't original). The Avanti got the redlines because I liked the way they looked and complimented the red pinstripe. I bought Cooper because I like their quality, ratings and the dealer who sells them locally.

    If you want raised letter tires. go with the BFG Radial T/A, Firestone Firehawks or Cooper Cobra. They're all excellent tires. I've heard mixed reviews to the Goodyear lines.

  4. I would contact Jon Myers at Myers Studebaker. He's as knowledgeable as anyone I know of for any issue on these cars. I recently had a brake problem on my car (different issue than yours) and asked Jon...as soon as I told him what was happening he knew what he problem was though long experience and I was able to get the brake issues corrected quickly.

    Jon's business number is 740-674-4897.

  5. I'm not sure, and hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe '85 was the last year on the Stude frame. After that I think Avanti Motors started using GM chassis...Monte Carlo, Caprice or El Camino depending on year and whether it was a coupe, 4-door, LSC or convertible.

    Also I'm sure, but I believe they used carburetors throughout most of the 1980's if not completely. The big issue to me would be that for much of those years, I think they were computer controlled carburetors, which may complicate servicing and repairs.

    As far as chrome bumpers go, I think '83 might be the last year for them...again I hope someone will correct me if I'm incorrect.

    Since there are visual differences between chrome bumper Avanti's and rubber bumper ones...including the rectangular headlights, a lot depends on what look you prefer. I would decide what I liked better then start looking for one based on that. Each has its own faults and strengths. My own personal preferences lean towards the chrome bumper look, but condition is very important and a good rubber bumper car is preferable to a poor chrome bumper car.

    To be honest, I believe the parts situation for the earlier cars is generally better than the later cars. Most parts of the early cars are Studebaker derived. Suspension and running gear aside, many parts for the later cars are adapted from other makes and it's difficult to find replacements for some parts since no one seems to have an interchange list.

    Mechanical, frame and running gear parts are pretty well available for any generation Avanti. It's the small trim parts that can kill you...trying to find them and then the cost for them. Most Avanti trim parts are Avanti specific and there weren't that many Avanti's built...around 8000-9000 total, plus whatever spare parts Studebaker made. Some stuff is being reproduced today, but not everything.

    Avanti's are great cars...whatever generation. Hope you find one that makes you happy.

  6. You can contact Nostalgia Motors (they have a website) and for something like $20 obtain a copy of your car's original build sheet...it can tell how the car was originally equipped by the factory when built...interior color, exterior color, optional equipment, etc.

    Maybe some Avanti owners in California can recommend a good body and paint. Try some Corvette clubs...they'll have a handle on who to recommend. If a shop knows fiberglass for Corvettes, they should have the knowledge and skill for an Avanti body.

    The same goes for chroming. I know of a great chromer on the east coast, but there's likely someone your way equally good. Southern California is a car mecca...there has to be quality shops there.

  7. Welcome! Lots of good people here to answer questions, so don't be afraid to ask.

    An '81 is still a Studebaker framed Avanti...about the only things GM are the engine and transmission. Maybe a few other parts but they're the major ones, so no servicing or parts issues in that respect. Getting parts for the suspension, frame and other service items are pretty available through a number of specialty suppliers. It's the trim stuff that can be hard to find if needed...some is amazingly easy to find and some is near impossible...that's why so many of us regularly watch for such items on Ebay.

    There's no issues I'm aware of on an '81 to be aware of. About the only potentially negative has less to do with it being an '81 Avanti than it being an '81 anything. The mid-1970's into the 1980's were pretty much all about emissions control and less on performance. Most any car from that era suffers from less than sterling performance, but the Avanti does fare well compared to its contemporaries. Since it's over 25 years old and depending on your state's regulartions, you may be able to remove the emissions equipment or disable it if it's causing problems. An '81 is a 305 cubic inch engine...many replace it with a 350 crate engine.

    As far as the a/c unit goes, I can't answer that without seeing a photo of under the hood. For many years Avanti used a York compressor and eventually went to the GM A6 axial compressor, but I don't know when that occurred. The York compressors were used in many vehicles...Ford used them for years and many aftermarket a/c units used them as well, so a replacement if necessary can be found. The problem may not be the compressor but could be a bad condenser under the front end, but whatever the problem is, I'm sure a qualified a/c shop can diagnose it. Parts are available as well as universal stuff sold through custom shops, though some bracket fabrication might be required.

    The frame and hog troughs are very important to look out as repair can be prohibitive...maybe even to the point of making an otherwise nice car little more than a parts car. You need to get the car up on a lift and have someone inspect it. The hog troughs are essentially what bonds the body to the frame, and also anchors the roll bar. The hog troughs are likely covered in undercoating, so anyone inspecting them would have to rap on them with their knuckles or with some tools to test their strength. Hog trough and frame rust can be repaired, but as I said, it can get very, very expensive. Where is the car located? Maybe it's near enough to a member here who can go take a look at it for you.

    One nice thing about an Avanti II...since all were special order cars and no two were built alike, you can customize it pretty much as you like if some parts are unavailable, and as long as it's done well, you really won't hurt the car's value. You can easily make it your own that way.

  8. Also, you did not make any other alterations elsewhere, like a new heat riser valve, or other exhaust changes, etc, did you?

    That brings up another possibility...check the exhaust system thoroughly. If you have a collapsed or otherwise completely restricted muffler(s) or exhaust pipe the car would run very poorly or not at all. This is pretty uncommon, but I have seen cars have this happen, even if the parts look good from the outside.

    You don't have any neighborhood kids known for stuffing potatos up tailpipes do you?

  9. The L48 is no more prone to jumping time than any other engine. It does sound like your timing chain may have jumped. How many miles on your engine? Small block Chevy engines are quite reliable in that regard but depending on mileage and previous care (or lack thereof) they can be prone to timing chain problems...not really common but it does happen. It makes you wonder why other manufacturers didn't simply use timing gears as Studebaker did.

    I think you should log onto some Corvette sites and ask some of the same questions about your problems. Try <www.corvetteforum.com> and click the forum link to C3 Corvettes...they're the same vintage as your '77 and scan the topics and ask some questions. It's a pretty heavily used forum so someone should have some answers for you.

  10. There's the possibility your distributor is installed a cog off...not likely but it is possible. You may also have a loose timing chain. Check the timing...see if the timing marks jumps around or holds steady. If it jumps around you need a new timing chain.

    What kind of vacuum does your engine hold when running? The vacuum gauge can be very helpful in disgnosing problems. A healthy engine should hold 17-21 inches on the gauge. If it's less or jumping around it could be several issues. Check for vacuum leaks...that can cause many kinds of troubles. Not all vacuum leaks are obvious...it could also happen inside the brake booster. You've already done some of this...pull all vacuum lines one at a time and see if the engine runs differently (it should speed up). The engine should run differently when you pull a hose...if it doesn't, you've found a source of a vacuum leak. It appears someone before you suspected vacuum leak problems or there wouldn't be plugged lines.

    Your EGR valve could be bad. On a '78 Corvette I had, I eliminated the EGR and installed a block-off plate on the intake, and removed the rest of the smog controls, also replacing the thermostat housing with the vacuum switch with a standard housing. The car ran better and also a bit cooler after that.

    Does that Quadrajet have an anti-stall solenoid mounted on it? Where earlier cars used anti-stall dashpots GM had moved to electric or vacuum solenoids to keep the engine from stalling when there's a sudden throttle drop...your solenoid could be bad or missing. It could also be a result of a vacuum problem, so don't condemn it right away.

    The occasional backfiring through the carb could be simply the result of too much fuel in the bowl after aggressive pumping the pedal.

  11. I've never seen an assembly line rebuilt carburetor worth a damn...too many variations in jetting, choke setup, etc. Assembly line rebuilders generally clean the carburetors and install some new gaskets, etc., and give them a baseline adjustment and box them. I have always had my own carbs rebuilt by someone who knew them. When I worked in an auto shop, the failure rate of assembly line rebuilt carbs was horrendous.

    As much as I think Quadrajets are as good a street carb as you can find, you should either have that carb rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing or replace it with something else. I would install an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake with an Edelbrock 1406 electric choke carb or an Edelbrock Performer intake with a Demon carburetor...I'm not a big fan of Holley.

    If your state exempts cars over 25 years old from emissions testing, I would scrap all the emissions equipment...it will run better and somewhat more cool, as well as clean up the underhood appearance.

    As far as finding a vacuum line chart, check some Camaro or Corvette websites or suppliers. Many will have have vacuum charts of at least a generic variety to look at.

  12. I would think there should be an emissions sticker under the hood with the engine desgination on it. If you can find that do a search for GM engine specs for that engine. It should tell you want you want. I'm not sure, but if that's a Camaro engine you can look it up that way.

    If you can find no sticker under the hood, you'll have to get the engine codes stamped in the block and find the information out by them.

  13. Never say never, but the blower is most likely an aftermarket addition. The Altman's did add a Paxton to one early Avanti II, and for a 1988 Silver Anniversary model Paxton blowers were installed, but your '83 it wouldn't be likely a factory addition at all. For sure provenance, contact either Nostalgia Motors or the Studebaker National Museum and get a copy of your car's build sheet. That should answer most of your questions.

    To remove your gauge inlay, you have to first remove the gauges...a bit of a pain but it can be done...especially if you have small hands. Your oil pressure gauge is just as likely a bad sending unit on the engine.

    I don't know at what point in production, Avanti Motors did replace the front speaker and grille with a coin bin, for lack of a better description, when door and rear deck speakers were commonly installed for stereo radios. You always find a used radio grille and paint it to match your interior and install it.

    As far as the second hump in the hood, your guess is as good as anyone's.

    As I said before, getting a copy of your car's build order will answer many questions.

  14. The right inserts should be very available. I don't know who you called, but try Jon Myers Studebaker, Studebaker International or Nostalgia Motors. Any of them should have them.

    Not sure what to tell you about the screws for the license plate bracket. You may have to drill them out. Maybe cut the body inserts from behind if you have clearance. Hard to say without physically seeing it. If you do all that you'll likely ruin them, if they're not that way already. You should order replacements along with the one for the mirror.

  15. Any carb rebuilder would have no problem rebuilding your carburetor. For the carb specs as well as all your tune-up specs, simply look up an L48 Corvette from your car's model year...they'll be identical. Same spark plug application and gap, same timing specs, etc. It's the same engine.

  16. There's a bushing at the bottom of the steering column that likely needs replacing. If the one you have is broken (quite probable), you'll have a lot of play in the steering.

    Go ahead and rebuild the ram and the power steering control valve. If you don't have the experience, it's better to send them to someone like Jon Myers who has the experience to do so properly.

    You may well ned a new set of hoses. They're not inexpensive but are money well spent.

    Essentially, you need to rebuild the entire system...to not do so will cost you more time and grief ultimately. Do it all while you have the system apart...the whole hydraulic system, king pins, bushings, etc. You might also consider a pair of quick steering arms, but that's not truly necessary. What it does it reduces your steering from 3.5 turns lock to lock down to maybe 3 turns. Again...your call.

  17. The interchanges I have for your belts are:

    a/c belt...

    Gates 9490

    Dayco 15545

    Goodyear 17491

    alt. belt...

    Gates 7440

    Dayco 15435

    Goodyear 13441

    I don't have the dimensions of the belts...just the parts numbers. If your pulley arrangement has been changed over the years, you'll have to run a string around the pulleys and measure it.

  18. The car Rodger Ward awarded at Indy is owned by his son, Rodger Jr. The current edition of Avanti Magaizne has a story on it by Rodger's other son, David. According to his son, he really wanted a car with air conditioning so he got R1034, which is owned by David and is actually for sale right now. David Ward is asking $32k for it.

  19. There's a product called "Bearin' Seal". While it's a not a true fix it will greatly help. The only true fix is to replace the rear main seal.

    Years ago when I owned a '63 R1, it leaked oil badly. I tried a can of Bearin' Seal and while it didn't stop the leaks completely, I would say it reduced it by at least 75%.

    What it does is make the seals expand to fill the gaps. It's not the best way to take care of it, but it does work. There are probably other brands on the market that do the same thing. Go to someplace like NAPA, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. Any of them will probably carry a brand that will do it.

  20. 7" wide rims are fine for 70 series tires...probably the optimum width for them. My '69 Corvette came from the factory with 70 series tires on its stock 15"x8" rims, though I think that's pushing it a bit for that size. I have P215/70R15 tires on both the Vette and my '70 Avanti. P225/70R15 tires would fit 7" wide rims just as well if not better.

    When deciding on a tire/wheel combination, you're taking into account two main things...correct overall tire diameter to keep the speedometer/odometer accurate, and wheel backspacing/brake caliper clearance. If all those are within correct parameters for the car, you're fine. You also have other considerations...the "look" you want, cost, etc., but none of that counts if they won't clear the brakes, frame, body, etc.

  21. It depends on what aspect ratio tire you want to provide the proper diameter. The best choices are P205/75R15 or P215/70R15. They're each nearly identical in diameter...the 70 series is a bit wider and is probably your best choice.

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