Gunslinger
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Posts posted by Gunslinger
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Their website is back online now.
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The actual serial number or Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for a Studebaker Avanti is located on a plate riveted to the upper frame on the right side of the car, just ahead of the firewall. It's quite likely it's covered by dirt and grease. That's the only place the VIN is on a Stude Avanti as far as I know. The number on the plate by the hood latch (RQ XXXX) is the body number. The VIN should read 63RXXXX or simply RXXXX depending when it was assembled. There are some VIN's that end in a "B", and I believe there's some controversy where that came from and its meaning.
Hopefully the body number doesn't become confused for the VIN and erroneously listed on a title as the VIN.
I believe the Avanti II's began putting the VIN on the door jamb.
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Do a web search for clock repairs and you should find someone that can fix it without too much problem. See if anyone can convert it to quartz movement...it will be much more accurate and reliable.
It probably has a Stewart Warner tach, but I don't now that for sure. There should be repair services for that as well. Tachs are designed in a variety of ways in how they operate. It could have a seperate tach sending unit which usually looks like a big flat can. They do go bad and can be fixed. It could also be as simple as a bad connection. Since yours is a '78 it should have a GM HEI ignition. In some GM cars (Corvette's at least), they used a tach filter in-line due to the very higher voltage output. The filter can and does go bad. If Avanti was using a tach filter, look at it. It depends on who made the tach.
You can always simply replace all the gauges with new VDO or Autometer units. Besides being superior gauges you can really individualize your car with them. A bit more work but it can really add to the appearance and be a practical upgrade.
Best of luck and congrats on buying it!
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Try <www.JustDashes.com>. Restoring dashes is their specialty. I've not used them but people I know who have say they do outstanding work.
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You should have a 289. Stude Avanti's all were 289's (R1 & R2) or the rare R3 (299 or 304.5).
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It shouldn't hurt a thing beyond introducing some additional back pressure into the exhaust. You can buy low-restriction converters through Summit Racing and Jeg's that will minimize any horsepower penalty.
That brings up the obvious question...what would want to install cats on a car that has no need or requirement for them?
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I can't say it is or isn't normal, but the '63 R1 I used to own did pretty much the same. The shifter would get pretty hot. I tend to think it's the nature of the beasts.
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I've seen other brand alternators adapted for Studes, but there should be no reason why your Prestolite can't be rebuilt to like new by a competent rebuilder. When I had my '63 R1, I had my alternator rebuilt by a local shop and had it back the same day.
A potential problem with other alternators is if you use one with too high an output with the original electrical wiring it may cause problems. Often heavier gauge wiring is necessary.
If needed, I can put you on to a shop that does quality work and will accept units shipped in and will ship it back to you.
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Welcome to the club! You're in good company.
The best replater I know of is Paul's Chrome in Pennsylvania. Their web address is <http://www.paulschrome.com>. I've never used them but have seen their work and it is flawless. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Check them out.
Just posting to say hello to the members here. I would also like to ask a question about Avanti bumpers .. my rear bumper needs to be replaced or rechromed -Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Tom
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I don't know any part numbers, but it's the same application that fits a '63-'64 Buick Riviera. That may be easier to look up.
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The car was built in South Bend. Avanti's were never made in Canada.
Whatever issues are appropriate for any Avanti applies to this one as well. Check the hog troughs, check it for water leaks and whatever else applies to checking out a used car, particularly of this vintage.
Avanti II's all used a small block Chevy engine, including the 400 which this car has. I'm not sure what year Avanti Motors began using the 400, but it was about this time, so it may well be the original engine. I do understand the 400's with two barrel carburetors were less than stellar performers, but then again, this was the beginning of the smog emission era, and most cars were being choked by government regulations. One good thing...now the car is over 25 years old, most emissions laws no longer apply and you can modify the engine to run great. Install a four barrel intake and carburetor or convert it to fuel injection, remove the smog equipment and enjoy it! The car likely has a GM Hydramatic transmission as well.
Most parts are readily available, including some suppliers that offer upgrades, such as 4-wheel disc brake systems, etc.
Hope this helps.
HelloMy first Avanti II
I am contimplating the purchase of a 1973 Avanti II. It has a 400Cubic inch Chevy engine. I will be taking it to a local mechanic for a inspection.
My questions are:
*Are there any inherent problems I should be aware of?
*I went to our local library, and could not find any information other than "Standard Guide to Cars & Prices 2005". Where can I get publications regarding a 1973 Avanti II?
* What I gleaned off the Avanti web site, was that this car was built in Canada. Did this car originally have a 400 cubic inch Chevy engine, and did it also have a Chevy drive train?
* Are replacement parts (breaks, suspension, etc) for this car readily available?
Any information will be appeciated
Thank you
Charlie
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That sounds like it's a '63 that was titled originally as a '64. If the VIN you're giving is correct, it's older than the '63 I used to own. If so...not too uncommon.
Are you sure that's the VIN and not the body number? The VIN is a plate riveted to the upper frame on the right side just ahead of the firewall. It may be grease covered and need cleaning off. The body number is the one on the plate on the right front cowl. Are you sure the number isn't "RQ3911" instead of RO3911? That sounds more like a body number. The wood grain steering wheel, if original, would be more likely for a '64. Does it have square headlight bezels or round? Square would make it a '64.
Either way, $17,500 sounds high considering the problems with the car you've already noted. They could be minor to repair or be a signal of more serious attention. For that money the car should have everything working properly, even if it's not quite in show condition.
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Welcome to the group, Tom.
$15K should buy you a nice Avanti...not perfect, but nice. You need to decide what you're looking for...a nice driver like an R1, or more performance oriented like the supercharged R2. Everything else being equal, an R2 will cost you more, especially if it has a 4-speed instead of an automatic.
Regardless of what you acquire, the best thing you can do is get a shop manual and parts manual. You won't regret having them.
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You can get it from Studebaker International. Their web address is
<http://www.studebaker-intl.com/products.html>
The part number is 800913 and the cost is $6.00.
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Custom Autosound (http://www.custom-autosound.com) custom makes stereos for many cars and lists Studebaker and Avanti II's among them. They have several feature levels and styles with cassette players.
The only downside is I've heard they have a spotty reputation...I've heard some good and not so good reports from Corvette people who have tried their products. I've no experience with them myself.
It's at least worth investigating.
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I'm not saying silicone brake fluid is a bad thing...to use it you simply have to be very thorough in purging your old brake fluid first and in bleeding the air out of the system after adding the new fluid.
If you've had no problems with it after twenty years, then you're definitely doing something right. It is true that if you look at most, if not all performance cars, their manuals specifically say to use DOT 3 fluid, but generally don't say why. Besides my Avanti, I own two Corvettes and the same goes for them...every Vette specialist I know of says don't use silicone fluid...just use DOT 3 and change the fluid annually. Of course, old habits and prejudices die hard...I still use good ole STP in my cars when I know it's not necessary with the quality of today's motor oils.
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Be very careful when using silicone brake fluid. You have to completely purge the old, non-silicone fluid from the system or you're going to have problems. If not done properly, silicone fluid will aerate and cause problems with spongy pedal feel and is very difficult to completely bleed.
Just about all makers of performance cars specifically say that DOT 5 (silicone fluid) NOT be used in their cars as aggressive handling promotes this aeration. Silicone fluid is great for cars that are driven little or in a museum, but shouldn't be used in performance oriented vehicles.
puzzling AM Radio Question
in 1963-64 Avanti
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The factory location for the antenna is the top of the left rear quarter panel. The antenna also needs to be grounded to be able to perform properly. It's not like a steel bodied car where the antenna grounds simply from being tightened down to the bodyand receives a big ground plane from all the sheet metal.
Make sure any antenna you install on an Avanti gets grounded securely.