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Gunslinger

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Posts posted by Gunslinger

  1. The car Rodger Ward awarded at Indy is owned by his son, Rodger Jr. The current edition of Avanti Magaizne has a story on it by Rodger's other son, David. According to his son, he really wanted a car with air conditioning so he got R1034, which is owned by David and is actually for sale right now. David Ward is asking $32k for it.

  2. There's a product called "Bearin' Seal". While it's a not a true fix it will greatly help. The only true fix is to replace the rear main seal.

    Years ago when I owned a '63 R1, it leaked oil badly. I tried a can of Bearin' Seal and while it didn't stop the leaks completely, I would say it reduced it by at least 75%.

    What it does is make the seals expand to fill the gaps. It's not the best way to take care of it, but it does work. There are probably other brands on the market that do the same thing. Go to someplace like NAPA, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. Any of them will probably carry a brand that will do it.

  3. 7" wide rims are fine for 70 series tires...probably the optimum width for them. My '69 Corvette came from the factory with 70 series tires on its stock 15"x8" rims, though I think that's pushing it a bit for that size. I have P215/70R15 tires on both the Vette and my '70 Avanti. P225/70R15 tires would fit 7" wide rims just as well if not better.

    When deciding on a tire/wheel combination, you're taking into account two main things...correct overall tire diameter to keep the speedometer/odometer accurate, and wheel backspacing/brake caliper clearance. If all those are within correct parameters for the car, you're fine. You also have other considerations...the "look" you want, cost, etc., but none of that counts if they won't clear the brakes, frame, body, etc.

  4. It depends on what aspect ratio tire you want to provide the proper diameter. The best choices are P205/75R15 or P215/70R15. They're each nearly identical in diameter...the 70 series is a bit wider and is probably your best choice.

  5. Welcome to the group!

    Avanti's run hot...get used to it. It seems to be the nature of the beast, but there are a few things than can be done to help.

    Primarily about all you can do is make sure the seals around all interior vents, wiring, etc., are in place. You can put insulation inside the bulkhead behind the dash.

    Considering the age of your car, the vent tubes from the cowl to the transmission tunnel are likely deteriorated beyond recognition, so instead of directing cool air to the tunnel and console area the air is probably venting where it's not needed. That can be replaced but it's a pain unless you remove the dash.

    One big thing you can do is have the padding under the carpeting replaced with heat barrier padding. Most any automotive carpet and upholstery shop can get it. It's not as inexpensive as standard carpet padding but it does do a good job.

    Hope this gives you some ideas and again...welcome to the group.

  6. The grille (or stone guard) under the front end is stainless steel and should be left natural. If you want it painted body color, any well equipped auto paint supplier can computer match any color if they don't have paint charts for manufacturer and model year. Any good paint supplier should have those color charts with modern formulas.

  7. Now that I have my key problem resolved thanks to Joliet Studebaker, :D I need to address the running of the car.

    What if anything needs to be done to make the car run safely with todays unleaded fuel? Additives - how often? Not looking to do any mechanical mods right now.

    I have searched the forums and I cannot find any info.

    There seems to be a lot of controversy with an answer to your question and everyone seems to have a different opinion with just as many conflicting bits of evidence.

    Octane ratings are figured differently now than when Stude originally built your car. If you have an R1 with it's rated 10.25-1 compression ratio you still need premium grade gasoline. R2's have a lower compression ration but with the supercharger they still need the high octane stuff to combat detonation...so, unless you've significantly lowered your compression ratio from stock, an Avanti still needs the high octane...leaded or unleaded. These cars aren't like modern cars with computerized ignitions that can automatically adjust timing when it detects engine knock due to use of lower than specified octane fuel.

    About all you can find now, outside of racing fuels or aviation fuel, is 92 or 93 octane unleaded. The lead originally used in gasoline was a cheap valve lubricant, that's why it was used. Allegedly the use of unleaded gas in older engines...built prior to about '71 or '72, can cause damage to valve seats. Since that time manufacturers have installed or built in hardened valve seats into cylinder heads to keep that from happening. If your cylinder heads have been rebuilt since that time period, they may well have hardened valve seats installled...it's pretty much done automatically.

    Even if your engine has never been rebuilt, you would likely never experience problems, especially if you don't drive your car hard and keep it in proper state of tune. You can still put additives in it to help. There are lead substitutes on the market and upper cylinder lubes. You'll find people swearing by or at different brands. Go to auto supply stores and see what's available and read the instructions. Try it and see.

    I have a '69 Corvette with a 427 engine with a rated 11:1 compression ratio. When the engine was rebuilt the compression ratio was lowered to 10.6:1 and I have noticed no detonation issues with 93 octane pump gas. I do add upper cylinder lube occasionally but I don't know if it does anything...it's more of a peace of mind thing I guess.

  8. You have several options. Most standard 7" round headlights sold today are Halogen and fit the same as the originals. You can also buy high internsity conversion headlights which are a 7" round headlight body with a replaceable H3 or H4 bulb. Once assembled they fit the same, but depending on the maker you may have to remove the rubber seal on the backside. The seal is to keep moisture out but since most Avanti's have glass enclosures with rubber seals protecting the headlights it shouldn't hurt anything to remove the seal.

    There are a number of conversion kits available...Hella, Pilot Motorsports and Zoops among others. Summit Racing, Jeg's, JC Whitney carry them.

    As far as how much power they draw compared to standard headlights, I don't have that answer. It may be insignificant.

    You can always add driving lights like Avanti II's came equipped with. Driving lights are intended to be connected to the high beam switch so they run only with your high beams. They come with a wiring harness and relay and stay on a seperate circuit.

  9. I'm sure we all would love to see someone or a group committed to the product come along and pick up the pieces...though we are speculating in a vacuum of facts and accurate information.

    The first question anyone needs to ask is whether what offenses Mike Kelly is accused of benefited Avanti Motors and whether it can be proven Avanti Motors received fraudulently obtained funds. If so, then we have to see what legal actions the government can take to recover those funds and how it can tie up any potential sale of the company. The fact that the company is incorporated in the US and the factory and assets are in Mexico raises all kinds of legal issues as well as international trade issues. I certainly have no idea the answers to any of those questions.

    There well may be those desiring to scoop up Avanti Motors and continue the marque...there always has been up to now. It's whether both the legal questions can and financial burdens can be overcome in the short-term before even cosidering long-term viability.

    All we can do is hope for the best. Our Avanti's have been orphaned before and we can handle being orphaned again.

  10. I think you may be in luck! My '70 has a new crate engine with fuel injection and I think the throttle bell crank is still among the leftover parts. I don't know if I have the part here in my garage or it's still with other leftover parts at the shop that did the work.

    I'll post later if I can find the part. My in-laws are coming in for the weekend so I may not be able to check right away.

  11. I agree...I think the manual transmission early Avanti II's are a pretty rare commodity. Hurst didn't make their shifter for an Avanti until about '69, so earlier cars that had sticks used the standard T10 shifter that would have come on a Stude.

    You can always install a 4-speed in an original automatic car, or a newer 5- or 6-speed which would make for a sweet driving car. I think the hard part would be finding the appropriate parts such as the brake and clutch pedals, linkages, etc. There's not too many of them lying about not already in use. Once you have the parts the swap wouldn't be difficult.

    Avanti Motors eventually dropped the manual transmission option due to lack of sales and the expense of meeting emissions standards for sales figures in the single digit percentages. It was a basic business and economic decision.

    If you can find a manual equipped Avanti II that's for sale, go for it if it's priced fairly...but don't equate rarity with necessarily having more value. That's been a discussion of its own. My opinion is there are far more Stude Avanti's with 4-speeds than Avanti II's. The Stude version is the more sporting version...the Avanti II was built and promoted more as a performance boulevard cruiser for those who wanted something different and willing to pay for it.

  12. 1975 most of the industry went to cats. Some Mopars got away with it for a couple more model years. I'll leave the rest of the question to the Avanti II guys.

    Ernie R2 R5388

    As far as decreased performance regarding Avanti's, it's more accurate to say all cars of the emissions era suffered from reduced performance. The manufacturers were pretty much concentrating on reducing emissions and increased safety standards (bumpers, etc.), as well as trying to increase fuel economy and performance was secondary at best. I would put that time period as starting around '71-'73 and really hitting bottom about '75-'77. After that period the manufacturers were still on the learning curve of increasing performance again, or at least stopping the decline.

    If there is an era where Avanti performance began to suffer, it was probably when the 350 Vette engine was changed in favor of the 400 cubic inch sedan engine with a two barrel carburetor. I don't know the reason for the switch...maybe it was availability issues with GM, maybe emissions issues, maybe it was cost...I certainly don't have a clue. I understand the 400 had some definite driveability issues, particularly at take-off, during that era. Things apparently got worse when the 400 was switched to the 305 later in the '70s. Not that there were anything inherently wrong with the engines...the small block Chevy is one of the outstanding engines of all time, but it was a combination of reduced compression ratio, emissions equipment robbing the power even more, increased weight of the car as more and more mandated equipment was added, and the restrictive exhaust system necessary.

    As far as Avanti quality, I've read where the quality began to decline after Nate Altman died in '76. Even though his brother took his place and the people involved loved the car, without Nate's force of personality the company began to drift and quality allegedly suffered. I've also read where they ran out of original Avanti and Lark convertible frames and adapted Stude frames that were thinner guage steel and less strong, plus had been sitting out in the weather for years. Supposedly this occured for the last half of the '70s.

    Supposedly, after Steve Blake bought the company around '83-'84 the quality control went up again...at least until the paint debacle which helped throw the company into bankruptcy.

    A lot of the alleged problems really don't mean a lot now...I would think that either the cars have been updated and restored or they've been parted out or waiting to be parted out.

  13. Bruce

    I'll admit I never thought about the cars that are cannabilized, but if there weren't some people restoring them they wouldn't be worth parting out. Actually, the cost of restoring most cars is going to be a lot more than their resale value, not just Avantis. Especially if it's not a top shelf, 99 pt. restoration. I've resigned myself to the fact that I must view my hobby as an one that costs me money with the ability to recoup a only small percentage of what I spend.

    I don't completely understand the weak pricing of the Avanti II but I hope it stays down 'til I can buy one. Wouldn't mind building one a lot like yours :)

    Ernie

    BTW, I had my opinions on the matter published in the club magazine a few years ago. I also wrote a little "story" as a sidebar to one of the points I made in the letter. I said that some TV hero needs to drive an Avanti like Don Johnson, Tom Selleck or Burt Reynolds. They all made cars desirable and oddly enough the Miami Vice Ferrari was actually a kit car based on a Corvette but look what happened to Daytona values back then. And, the black and gold Trans Ams will be "Bandit" cars even to people that don't know why they are called that. And last but not least, the General Lee!!!

    Everytime I see a Mopar going for some ridiculous amount of money I tell my wife that they were not the greatest cars ( I have to be careful she has a 72 Duster ). I was in the gas station business in the early 70's and had the opportunity to tear into a lot of vehicles that are collectible today. I know what they are made of.

    Anyway if anyone's is interested in reading my little story I'll post it, might ive you a couple of laughs.

    Ernie

    Ernie...

    Your comment that the Avanti needs a high profile setting and driver like Tim Selleck, Don Johnson, etc., is very true. Twenty years ago when I owned my '63 R1, I got a call from a movie production company regarding using my car in a '60s era movie they were filming in Baltimore (I live less than an hour from there).

    I checked it out and it was a genuine offer...not bogus. Of course I contacted them back and offered them the use of the car. That would have been really sweet.

    Ultimately, they declined to use my car. The scene it was to be in was at a union hall, and they decided an Avanti wouldn't fit in as it wasn't the type of car that would look right at such a location.

    The movie..."Tin Men". Richard Dreyfuss, Danny DeVito...a Barry Levinson film. I never have gone to see it.

    But you're right...if just one high profile film and star used an Avanti, values would take a jump.

  14. Ernie...

    I agree with your sentiments for the most part. What values Avanti's are bringing is really a double-edged sword. High values are great...if you're selling. Low values are great if you're buying. The best we can hope for is to find a reasonable compromise in the middle.

    As we've already discussed, rarity doesn't necessarily translate into desireability or increased value. The Avanti community seems quite small and rarity and value for an Avanti seems to matter only within that small community...not the general automotive hobby. Advertise for sale a genuine factory R3 Avanti and listen to the deafening silence and yawns from the mainstream hobbyists and investors. Advertise a run of the mill Cobra (if there is such a thing as a run of the mill Cobra) and watch the dollar signs shine in people's eyes.

    To my way of thinking, what the low relative values of Avanti's does to hurt us is it makes them unattractive for restoration or rebuilding otherwise. They are simply not cost effective to rebuild compared to potential resale value. That results in more and more Avanti's being parted out when they might be quite restorable otherwise. I've seen several Avanti's parted out because of this. I think the numbers of Avanti's out there is or will be steadily decreasing due to this. For this to change, either the cars get increased mainstream recognition and desireabilty or ultimately what few Avanti's remain will never get driven anymore as they begin failing at an increasing rate and not repaired.

    I'm afraid a small bunch of Avanti fanatics can't do it all. New converts need to be brought into the fold.

  15. It depends on the source of the noise. Is it a whine that increases and decreases with engine rpm? If so, it's the alternator. If it's consistant it's likely the ignition...is your distributor and coil shroud in place and the plug wires shielded? Is the noise strictly in the AM band or the FM as well?

    The fiberglass body offers no ability to shield from radio frequence interference. It requires the shrouding to be in place and maybe even additional filters to keep it from being a nuisance.

    Your stereo may need to be shielded itself or have filters attached to it...or it could simply be defective in it's filtering capability. Such things do happen.

    You might want to visit an auto stereo shop and ask them for advice...they will probably have whatever filters you require.

  16. With the 700R4 you do need a new shifter indicator dial and new indicator housing...the indicator won't work with the original. The original shifter can be re-used. The parts are available from Nostalgia Motors.

    The linkages will have to be changed and a different setup for the neutral safety swtich and backup light switch will need to be fabricated. There's not enough clearance for the originals...at least that's how it went on my car.

    You'll also need a new driveshaft. For mine I went for an aluminum unit to reduce rotating mass.

    My car also did not require any modifications to the floorpan's transmission tunnel for the conversion, though some people say they found it necessary.

  17. Jerry...

    The speed shop that installed the crate engine and a 700R4 in my '70 has done a rack and pinion conversion to an Avanti in the past. I don't know what their experience was or how well it turned out. They are very careful about what they do and won't do anything that's unsafe or not properly engineered.

    There are 4-wheel disc brake kits on the market...Turner and Steeltech come to mind. I don't know how either kit handles the parking brake for the rear, though. My feeling for a shop to do that kind of work would be to allow them to obtain all the parts...that way THEY have to warranty everything, not just their labor. If you provide the parts, some places simply won't do it, or if they do and there's a defect problem, you'll be paying labor several times before it's done right. This way may be somewhat more expensive, but unless you have the tools, facility and knowledge to do it yourself, I believe it's the better way to go. There's also no reason why a shop can't order the entire kit from Turner or Steeltech and add on a reasonable profit...it does take a lot of potential headaches off your shoulders.

    As far as any fan issues if you lower the body, if you go with electric fans you can dispense with the fan shroud altogether. Get a fan kit that contains a built in shroud that covers the entire radiator core. One potential issue with electric fans (or too many electrical additions) is by increasing the current draw you might need to upgrade to a higher output alternator, which can require heavier guage wiring, which can require a custom wiring harness, etc. You get the point. Rarely does changing one item not require additional changes to safely accomodate it. I'm not saying this will happen, just it's something to keep in mind when proposing changes. I believe the stock electrical system should be able to handle up to a 100 amp alternator without the need for modifications, but you should check with a custom shop to make sure of that.

    Regarding body modifications, you'll need to find a really good custom body shop. I think air dams would look nice on the front of an Avanti...something like the Blake Avanti that raced at Daytona back in the '80s. You would have to watch out for speed bumps and curbs...it might be really easy to damage.

    There's lots of things you can do to change the dash without actually modifying the dash itself. In my '70 I had new inlays made up for the guage cluster, console and a/c bezel. There are lots of choices to pick from...brushed aluminum, a variety of wood grains and colors, several colors in carbon fiber, etc. There are also numerous brands and styles of guages available...both analog and digital readouts. You can transfor the dash without actually changing the dash pad and structure at all. If you remove the air conditioing, you can mount guages or a DVD screen in that center bezel. Then again...you're in Florida so I would think you'd want to keep the a/c!

    Sounds like you're going to have a killer car when it's done.

    Bruce

  18. I agree completely. I guess the author of the book never heard of people having the freedom to buy and drive whatever they like, and who cares what his opinion is.

    The fact is, the Avanti (specifically the Stude variety, but the Avanti II should qualify even more) is a certified Milestone Car. To attain Milestone status, it has to excel in five categories...the model should be distinctive because of Styling, Engineering, Performance, Innovation, and Craftsmanship-relative to their contemporaries.

    There are not very many cars that qualify as Milestone Cars. The rub is that just because a car attains that status, it doesn't necessarily translate to values. Look at the values of Mopars with Hemi's or 440 engines...while I believe Mopar made some of the most bulletproof engines and transmissions of anyone, the rest of their cars were crap...weak electrical systems, tinny bodies, cheap materials in the interior, etc. There should be no real way they should be pulling the money they are, but the fact is they are.

    Early on, the Avanti was derided as only a Lark in a guilded cage. Well, what was a Mustang but a pedestrian Falcon with a different body? How it was promoted made a big difference, among other things (being available where the Avanti had major production bottlenecks helped as well).

    The Avanti has always been an automobile for those who not only like something different, but something a cut above as well. Does the car have a troubled past and maybe future? Yes, but maybe that's part of the mystique.

  19. Jerry...

    I'm pretty clueless on lowering an Avanti, but as far as the air cleaner not having clearance, unless you're determined to retain the air cleaner you have, there are many drop base air cleaners on the market. One of them may do what you want without resorting to a hood bulge.

    On my '70 which is still being reassembled, I know I'm going to have air cleaner issues when it get to that point. It looks that the air cleaner I prefer likely won't clear, so I've been looking at options...some I'm OK with, some I may simply have to live with if it comes to that.

    I'm hoping a drop base air cleaner will work off the throttle body of the EFI. If not, my next choice will be the Holley Hi Tek air cleaner, which is kind of unusual looking to my eyes...it reminds me of Princess Leia's hair in Start Wars, with two air filter elements...one on either side of the throttle body. It's not inexpensive either, but may be my best way to go. I'm guessing my last choice will be to use a carburetor bonnet, like for a supercharger and use a tapered cone air filter attached to it. It will get worked out...just a matter of which way is best.

    You have options. I'd hate to see you cut your hood for a bulge or scoop.

  20. Wayne...

    Looks like you found your solution. The best I've come up with is a refernce that states the master cylinder is either from a '70 Dodge Polara or a '68 Dodge Charger with drum brakes, and I'm pretty sure they're both the four bolt variety.

    The only other thing I've come up with so far is a master cylinder rebuild kit, but the list doesn't say if it's for the four bolt ot two bolt style. The number is Bendix 2800.

    Either way, it looks like you've got the information you need.

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