lschuc
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Posts posted by lschuc
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I chem stripped my 63 many years ago, and recently purchased a 71 that had been soda blasted. It was work to chem strip the car, no idea about the soda blast, however; the chem strip car had a great surface and the blasted car will be a lot of work to get it to the same point as the chem strip.
Ron, since you soda blasted the finish on your Avanti, make sure you use something to neutralize the fiberglass. I've heard that this is needed to get all traces of the baking soda out of the fiberglass pores, otherwise the primers and paint could react badly to any trace of the soda embedded in the fiberglass.
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I took some pictures, but this forum won't let me upload pictures. I posted them on the SDC forum.
It should have let you post them. I added them to your post, Brad.
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The fifth print will be available later in 2016, and the sixth print after that.
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The Gibson Auction Company will be holding an auction next month, Dec. 4-5, at the Don “Hoss” Waugh Memory Lane Motorcycle Museum Auction in Orange, Virginia.
The entire contents of the museum will be sold in both a Live and Internet public auction. Included are many motorcycles and cars, including this 1963 Avanti. See more in this link http://gibsonauction.com/waughmuseum/
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Great gathering of magazine covers through the years! A trip down memory lane!
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Wrong, MFG. Bonneville Avanti #1112 belongs to David and Rosa Marie Livesay.
And the number, #1112, is for November 12, their late son's birthday.
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Mike,
contact Gerald Kurtz, email: jerezstude@aol.com
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The 25th anniversary Avantis built for the 1988 model year all has Paxton superchargers. I believe none were supercharged in 1987.
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It almost looks like the Avanti was Photoshopped into the scene. It doesn't look like a natural photograph parked at that spot.
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I'm guessing Paxton Products.
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When a Black Avanti was no longer an option, Studebaker replace Avanti Black with Avanti Gray..... until James Bond author Ian Fleming insisted on purchase of a black Avanti... and the factory went back to black. That's the author with his Avanti in attached photo.
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An interesting list of collectible cars. Check out #5 on this list.
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Ken, check with Brad Bez. He replaced another '89 convertible top and can give you the company that made the top for him.
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Well, Brad is technically correct, since all those parts make up a complete Paxton supercharger. But the parts kit left out the ball driver... but probably should have included it.
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Also, Mazda Miata front bucket seats fit well too. I know of a 63 Avanti that uses them and were a near bolt in fit.
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Also, make sure that there is no air bubble or air pocket in the cooling system. If your engine block, heads and radiator were completely empty, you may have thought the cooling system was filled with coolant, but there could still be an air bubble or air pocket that has not worked out of the system. That would also cause your temperature gauge to run hotter if the coolant was not circulating very well.
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Yes, models were based on the calendar.
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False.. I believe that all 8 cylinder wall are close to the same thickness.
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Yes, TRUE!!!
The airbox on the 9 production R3 Avantis were left in natural metal. Photo below is of R3 Avanti #9, the last production Avanti.
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Ron, actually, Carolyn was president around 1998-2002 of the AOAI (not the SDC). Their white Avanti with black vinyl room was on the cover of Avanti Magazine Issue #110 in 2000.
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FALSE. The 50th anniversary is this year, 2015. The AOAI was formed in 1965.
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The clatter or rattle that you hear when you blip the throttle only, could be the heat riser valve on the passenger side exhaust pipe, between the pipe and exhaust manifold. It could be missing its spring that opens the valve once warmed up. Without the spring, or a broken or missing spring, the valve and weight could be the cause of the rattle or clatter.
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Orange County Studebaker, 350 E. Orangethorpe #11, Placentia, CA 99870
714-572-3777
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One set of polished spinners showed up on eBay now... an unpolished set should turn up soon.
Power-shift, shifting sluggishly
in 1963-64 Avanti
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If you're going to go to the trouble of cleaning the valve body, pressure regulator and replacing servo from under the car, if I were you I would remove the transission and take it all apart so you could also check the bands and replace them if needed and also replace the clutches and seals inside the front and rear drum assemblies. From age and heat, those rubber seals inside the clutch and drum assemblies are most likely hard and could be the reason that your transmission is shifting sluggishly when cold. Once the seals warm up, they are probably working a little better.
It are able to remove and replace the transmission from under the car without too much problem.