AG-R3

I'll bet you can find something in here, if not... call them and they can do magic... https://www.restorationspecialties.com/assets/pdfs/2025_PDF_Catalog_RSSI.pdf

The 70 RQA had a 350/300 and the only way to get to plugs 5/7 were, to raise the car using the main crossmember,...brace with jack stands under the frame.... remove the Dside whee and use a hole saw to cut through the fiberglass inner fender, to enable a straight shot with a socket for #5. To get to #7, you had to lay on your back and approach from the Pside on a creeper until you could see the plug straight up from underneath. Then then reach up past the steering box with a socket in your fingers and place it over the plug, then attach the socket wrench and remove/reinstall the plug. You could not get a socket on a wrench in there in one move ... Now, since I had an engine change and the heads are now the "dart style", its even worse...

The explanation by SilverStude above is the instruction from Studebaker International. So in your latest pic, the alignment of the middle example would seemingly be correct, however in the interest of having the best anchor to the lid, the example farthest from the lens would be optimal. Ironically, I just checked my car, where the seals are about 10 years old and what I have is totally different, in that the seal is a rectangular tube with rounded edges and not having an opening and it adheres to the main body of the lid and not to the extended, thin section that hides the seal itself

Avanti Shop manual....

Very nice car, congrats on your work.. Also a nice place for an Italian tune-up.....

Might be your trunk lid weatherstrip.

Methinks he is speaking of this

Sharp... do you use a latching relay for the start/stop button?

Well done! Thanks for the update....

arghh, you're right...

No underside pics either other than the rocker panel area

I used a tilt column for a 96-ish chevy van. It was the correct length and used the same rag joint / bolted right up

Chuck Collins, I believe, was an AOAI member who was instrumental in starting the Washington DC chapter, back in the early 70's.

You might want to look up the local SDC chapter. They may have a few hooks in the area....

Where is 4179 advertised?

there's this.... http://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Qjet/tuneaQjet.pdf

That was up for sale last August also...

I've seen announcements over the past week that phone users were seeing it, but today is the first it's been back online to me

What he said!!....

Here are a couple ideas... http://studebaker-info.org/rjtechjan2023p1.html#BRAKELIGHTSW

Just found that out, thanks....

I can't even get the page... tried to email the webmaster and got this Sorry, we were unable to deliver your message to the following address. <webmaster@forum.studebakerdriversclub.com>: 525: 5.7.13 Disabled recipient address

...."and there ya have it"

Supposedly in the same family since new - Logan WV https://www.facebook.com/share/18LBY5RLcj/ ....passed down in 2014 and in Clearwater Fl since... 55K R2, 4 speed

The story that has been told over the years, is that the California DMV established a new digital registration system around the time the 63's came out. The minimum number of characters accepted for a registration was eight. The Avantis only had seven ( 63Rnnnn), so the "A" or "B" was appended to make up the difference. The reasoning for one or the other, has never been revealed.... but someone knows... Nor is it known how far into the 60's that this process was continued. Any 64's with an A or a B... It was in mid 63 that the mandate to remove the 63 from the serial numbers was issued and to only use the Rnnnn. Any 63's or 64's with RnnnnAAA. Probably was a lot of sausage made in the DMV in those days.