64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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One picture looks like the correct control knobs.
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Looks like you may have round knobs as well. I believe I have some spare panels and controls. I will check in the morning.
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Acrylic lacquer.
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Do not recall spool orientation. However, make sure the lips ln the seals point in bound - toward each other. Otherwise, it leaks.
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Service letter K-1963-5 refers to step up rods for high altitude operation. So number 1 carburetors.
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Does SI still sell the spray cans? If so, you could spray some into a small container and dip a touchup brush.
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There is one on ebay now. $27.49 with free shipping.
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I purchased one on ebay a while back. You might look there.
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Silver mist metallic is original paint???
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IIRC, brake lines are on the inside of the frame. So false.
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IIRC, the 78 already has the forklift steering box and the "quick" steering arms.
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My 64 does not have the ports plugged or otherwise. Are you 100% certain about this? Anyone else have a 4spd Avanti?
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The auto needs the cooling tank, the manual does not. My 63s with auto have the cooling lines. My 64 4spd does not. All appear to be original.
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Did a little more research. The part number for R2 heads is the same for the low compression heads as used on trucks snd some exports. Unless someone can establish that the same part number can be different, I suspect this is another Studebaker urban legend. I had the same discussion a couple of years ago on the SDC forum regarding 570 heads for R1.
Some of the more experienced Studes guys insist that the spark plug seats are different between R1 and regular engines. Seems to be the case for R2 vs low compression truck and export heads.
So I ask the question. How can the same part number have different machining?
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I have actually measured the heads I have and they are all the same. Perhaps R2/truck heads are different. Imagine the poor parts guy or dealer mechanic attempting to get the correct one.
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Brad, have you actually measured the spark plug seats between the 2 heads? The reason I asked, is that I have several sets of 570, some of which are known to be R1, some 555 heads and some 294 heads. All have the same machining for the spark plugs.
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I have used Jerry Forester as well and have gotten good results. Barry Hackney at Texas Studebaker Ranch also does chrome. I have not used him, so cannot speak to quality.
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11 hours ago, VtMike said:
64studeavanti - That sounds pretty darn good to me. Did the modifications change the drivability/comfort when you are tooling around town? Estimated cost of the upgrades?
The cost is about the same as a normal rebuild. NOS Isky cams are no longer available, however, I believe that Isky will regrind existing cams. Others are selling R2+ regrind cams that are very similar. The additional machine work such are cylinder boring, decking, balancing etc are not very expensive. IIRC, I spent around $1000 or so. I used Silvolite flat top hypereutetic pistons. I did not do any extensive porting on the heads just cc'd them. There is likely some performance gains with some good head work. There are some good performance builders that frequent the forums. Hopefully they will chime in soon.
The drivability is good. A little doggy on the bottom end, but really comes alive over 3,000 rpm. Valve train is quite a bit noisier. I am sure that a well tuned R2 will perform stronger, but what I have is more than adequate and I have factory A/C!
If the block is good enough, it can take an overbore that brings the displacement to around 308.
How fast you want to go correlates well with how much money you want to spend.
As has been said, the S/C is the most effective way to increase performance. But, as you noted, there is quite a cost difference between factory R2 vs R1. Adding the S/C and other associated performance parts is not cheap either.
Factory R2 4spd will cost more and will hold/increase value as they are much more desirable.
Of course, you could also swap in SBC or LS. Not cheap either and frowned on by the purists.
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I have R1 that is quite fun to drive. 289 + .060 giving 299 c.u. Isky ST5 cam, lifters and valve springs. Block zero decked with thick head gaskets to get good quench.
4spd with 3.54 tt. Don't know what power it is putting out, but when you tach 3,000 or so, it takes off like a rocket.
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Reattach is easy. Install the clip on the handle (correct way this time) and push the handle on.
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Paradise Wheels took over the Paxton ball drive super chargers. You may wish to contact them as well.
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Some 63s had wood grain trim, brown steering wheels, round console knobs etc. That came with the 813BKV trim option. R4551 is a 63 with that option.
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According to workshop manual, aytomatic driveshaft is 46 9/32 long with 2 3/4 diameter. 4spd is 51 29/32 and 3 1/4.
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If not already taken, I could use it. Where in Fl are you? I am just south of Tampa.
Woodgrain Interior Trim on Console
in 1963-64 Avanti
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Sorry about the delay. Have been suffering with a nasty cold. Hope to get to the shop in the morning. I will go through the spares to see what I have.