64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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9 minutes ago, brad said:
I bought some from TCP Global, and had a very hard time getting it to lay down and shine. The old Lucite was far better. Although this did buff out, it should have been better to start with. If you order from them....get a lot extra, and really lay it on, because you will be cutting most of it off. I think most of the problems can be traced back to the thinner which is reformulated for lower VOC.
How much should be ordered?
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Why go to this trouble. I have 51 upper and lower arms with steel bushings. I am sure other have as well.
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Just curious where the factory R3 came from. Does any one know if there is a list of factory R3 engines?
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Can you provide serial number of car? Do you have production order from the Studebaker museum?
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11 hours ago, 1963r2 said:
Excuse my lack of knowledge on the subject but I thought R3 blocks would have an "A" or "B" designation?
Are there more options ?
pb
Factory R3 serial numbers are in the form R3S followed by a letter for the month, followed by the number 3 (for 1963) followed by day of month.
There may also be a 'B' number, most say it is located back by the distributor.
This appears to be a rare factory block. That is why I stated that I would return it to R3 configuration. I wonder if it has the domed pistons and Howard's rods.
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14 hours ago, Rags63 said:
Casting number for the heads STU-V 1555479
Number on engine block is R3S M305
Would the dual carb setup be a good fit with all the head work done
If I decode the engine number correctly, the block is R3 assembled on 12/5/63. The head numbers seem correct for R3/R4. If it was up to me, I would attempt a full R3 restore and sell the R4 parts.
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My best guess is the plastic bushing at the end of the steering column is shot.
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I found it was used to coat the inside of several engine blocks I have rebuilt.
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Just went through this. There was a change where the inner was longer and the outer shorter. According to parts book, this occured around serial # 4904.
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Since the 64 version included a noise suppressor, I will say 1) supercharger noise
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Non R2 carb bases would not have the passages that keep the fuel mixture from seeping past the shafts under boost. Of course, that may be overkill and not necessary.
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Sounds like EPAS may be the way to go for a driver quality car. Cost appears to be about the same (for new components) as sourcing and installing the original hydraulic.
Please check messages for contact info.
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sent a message with contact info.
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do you need the entire column then?
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My mistake, you do not need to remove dampener. You do need to remove the big crank pulley.
I would guess that if you cannot do the work yourself, plan on at least $2,000 for parts and labor depending on your local labor rate.
You can contact me via forum. That way, we are not publicly sharing personal information.
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Is yours bent? I have a spare.
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I)f I R)ecall C)orrectly.
I have almost all the parts. I could not find the special water manifold bolts and the auxiliary bracket that attaches the pump to the bolt in the exhaust manifold. I also could not find the clamps that attach to the frame to keep the hoses tidy. Those pieces are likely somewhere safe so I would not lose them. The bolts are available from Studebaker International for about $20 each. Thet are showing the exhaust maniford bracket for $26. They may have the clamps as well.
You should get new hoses and a belt. For little more than the cost of the hoses, about $240, Studebaker International has a kit with the hoses plus rebuild kits for the pump, ram, and control.
I don't know if you plan on doing the work yourself, but you will need to remove and replace the crankshaft dampener to install the pulley. There is a special tool for that. The rest of the installation is fairly straight forward.
Rebuilding the pump can be difficult. Studebaker International has a rebuilt for $218 plus exchange.
Also, some have commented that they could not get the control unit to stop leaking after rebuild.
If you are interested in these parts let me know.
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You would need pump and brackets with bolts, ram and bracket, P.S. bellcrank, P.S crank pulley, control assembly with reach rod and pitman arm as well as hoses and a couple of clamps to keep the hoses tidy.
IIRC, the steering gear ratio is different - you may want to change out steering box.
I may have a complete set of spares. I will check later this morning.
I would guess about 8-10 hours to install. Maybe a little more if you change the steering gear.
I don't have any idea on electric conversion. I am sure someone will chime in on that.
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For the Edelbrock to work correctly shouldn't something be done so the floats do not collapse?
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My guess is timing gear.
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Thinking this might be another trick question, I looked on the internet. The official name was Ross Tool and Gear Company later purchased by TRW.
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True
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Do not have link handy, but if you put seller:ccarspec in the ebay search you will get a list of everything he has listed on ebay.
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Ccarspec, Barry Hackney, has a 76 in Houston on Ebay. May be a little far for you.
Avanti Paint!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
Thanks. Great info.