64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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They will never stay aligned. Each tire will move at a slightly different speed depending on factors such as air pressure, weight distribution etc. Additionally, the tires will turn at different speeds when cornering. And of course, there will be differences in the construction of each tire giving different circumferences.
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A standard 7/16 bolt has a smaller diameter and should not be used. I suspect several of the Stude vendors have the correct bolts. If not, let me know and i will send a couple.
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Yes, i included the head in the measurement, so you are looking for about 2" bolt. You do need the larger diameter in order to properly register the starter in the housing. I have heard of issues ruining starter gears and flywheel ring gears using improper bolts .
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That is .4375 not .375. The correct starter bolts are 7/16 x 20 fine thread. The bolt head is 5/8 hex and the nut is 11/16 hex. I checked several bell housings and the special bolts fit snugly whereas the standard are loose.
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Forgot the grade of the bolt.
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Here is what i found. A regular bolt has a shank diameter of .435. The starter bolts are .4375 which is precisely 7/16.
I measured 3 of each and the measurements are consistent.
The overall length of the starter bolts is about 2 1/4 with the unthreaded part at about 1 1/16 and the threaded part at about 7/8.
This assumes i read the micrometer correctly.
Old tools and even older eyes.
The bolts are grade 5.
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The "special" part is the shoulder. It is larger in diameter than regular bolts. Later this pm i will be able to get to the shop so i can measure them.
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IIRC, this is for fuel injection.
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Apparently there was an article in Petersens that showed a swap of the olds into an Avanti that had r4. I quess the reason for false is it was not HRM.
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I believe that there was only one factory r4 - a daytona.
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I was just responding to the post that the 225r75 is narrower than 215r70. While tire width does affect steering effort, I don't think that is your problem. Without having the car to look at, my best guess is that you have something binding. Is everything greased correctly? The king pins can be a bear to get the grease in the thrust bearings. Are the tierod bolts pointing away from the oilpan? Is the steering box filled with lube and properly adjusted?
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Actually, the first number is the nominal width of the tire in mm. So, a 225 will be about 1/2 inch wider than 215. The 75, 70, ... is the profile of the sidewall which determines tire height. I believe it is nominally expressed as a percentage of tread width.
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I have R 4551 originally a California car. The serial number on the plate does have an 'A' stamped on it to match the title. It is a different size and font and spaced quite a distance from the rest of the numbers
I assume that either California, the dealer, or a previous owner did this so the serial number would match the title.
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I will agree with 5% (or less). If you take a 225 hp 289 and bump it up 10%, you get 247.5 which is more than the R1. So basically the math does not work for 10%.
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I believe you are looking for a better quench with the shim gasket. Of course, this assumes that the block has not been decked, the heads shaved etal. Better quench, in theory, should result in less detonation. On the other hand, i had quite a bit of pinging on my 64 with the thin gaskets and pump premium. Everything else on the engine was stock including timing. After i changed to the thicker gaskets, the pinging went away. As the popular saying goes, your results may vary.
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Once again, not to be a nag, but how was this measured. The compression on R2 is higher than a non R engine. I doubt seriously if the carb would make much difference as there is not much boost at the lower rpms. The centrifigual timing curve on R2 dist may make a little difference. But i still cannot believe that just removing the S/C would produce less hp than a non R engine.
Do you have any dyno runs or anything else to support this? Is this like most Studebaker lore and just anecdotal?
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10% makes no sense! That is a drop of 24hp from an R1. So you are saying an unblown R2 generates only 216 hp whereas a non R engine with lower compression, milder cam, and weaker valve springs is rated at 225. Where did this 10% information come from?
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I would guess 5%. Supposedly, the 289 with 4bbl and dual exhaust is rated at 225. The R1 is rated at 240. The difference is only 15 hp which is around 6 % .
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Are you thinking about the change that adds the plastic vent cover instead of just the screen?
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I know they added another vent just below the windshield
They also added cooling for the auto trans. Finally, whereas one of the slots in the console was split, with 2 controls and each of the half controls being half size. The round knobs only control one function
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Maybe due to chrome rings needing more time to seat.
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It was smaller - so it would turn faster.
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Likely false as early 4spds used chev pattern bell.
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I think the correct filter is PH11 or equivalent from someone other than Fram.
Ignition Sheild
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
I believe it was to reduce interference "static" in radio reception. Could accomplish same with suppressant spark plug cables and resister plugs.