64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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Don't know about the first, but the one I have is dated December 63. That should be late enough to have most, if not all, the running changes.
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You should get a copy of Stan Gundry's book "What the Shop Manual Won't Tell You". It has info on this as well as many other useful bits. I believe you can order it from his web site.
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There is a pair for sale on ebay. The picture shows that they are 17" center to center.
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New ones are available at a reasonable price.
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You either need to raise the body a little or cut a little off the inner fenders. The support was installed before body was mounted to frame.
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They look like pins. I will post a picture if I can figure out how.
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Maybe we are discussing different things. Standard AFBs have 4 external vents, one at each corner. This carb has them plugged. Where is the vent you indicate located?
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The floats are removable - not part of the airhorn. The external vents are indeed plugged on my model 3507S airhorn with the "sealed" carb tag. Yes, the accelerator pump seal is staked in a recess - non-sealed AFBs have the same recess. The seal could be staked on non-sealed airhorns as well.
If you bother to look at the base (the part that mounts to manifold) you would observe a substantial difference in the machining to control leakage via the throttle shafts under boost.
In short, a non-sealed airhorn can easily become sealed by plugging the external vent holes and installing the pump seal in the existing recess as was done at the factory. The floats, not a permanent part of the airhorn would need to be used as well. If you are looking for authenticity, you would also need to install the "sealed carb" label.
A non-sealed carb base requires significant machining to resemble a sealed one. Adding the seals for the idle screws is also trivial.
Of course, you would need to use sealer on the screws as per the shop manual.
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I do not recall any special machining for the sealed accelerator pump. However, I will check in the morning. The 4 external vents just have small plugs driven into them. The base is what requires the machining not the airhorn!
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The seal for the accelerator pump is not part of the airhorn. The four vents are just plugged on the sealed airhorn. Any AFB airhorn could be similarly plugged. It would take quite a bit of machining to convert a regular AFB base to match the function of the sealed one. I believe that Bob Johnstone's site has instructions for the conversion.
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The body is quite a bit different from "generic" AFBs. The base of the R2 carb has slots to keep fuel from leaking around the shafts under boost. The body also contains the special non-collapsible floats and seals on the idle screws. Other than the tag, any air horn could be used.
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Do you have the L&R knuckles/spindles? Are they in good condition?
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I believe viscous fan drives were filled with silicone fluid.
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IIRC, HydroVac.
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Serendipity, was just looking at this. The AD is 49 9/32" and the 3spd is 45 25/32". So the answer is true.
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It also appears that the heater hose routing is different if equipped with A/C.
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I checked 5408 as well as 4551. Both have an elbow closest to the radiator. Please note that 1691714 is described as an elbow. There are a couple of pictures of R1 engine bays in the Authenticity manual.
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The studebaker avanti radiators did not have neck as they used expansion tanks. My 78 has radiator similar to studebaker with the fill connected by hose to radiator and another hose to water outlet on the engine.
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IIRC, you need to remove the A/C evaporator and then the air distribution duct. One side of the distribution duct looks like it is made of tar paper. You can easily destroy the duct if you don't do it correctly. Unfortunately, the shop manual does not discuss removing the core or duct with A/C installed.
Forgot to mention that the heater core housing is attached on the passenger side with a well nut. If the well nut is seized, you may need to cut it loose.
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Curious what was said about the Mustang (Falcon) and Barracuda (Valiant) as well as others.
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TCP Global may be a good resource. They have an extensive library of colors and can provide acrylic lacquer.
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If they are indeed the bendix/dunlop you can purchase new sumitomo calipers from parts geek for around $80 each. They are labeled for Nissan. There are the correct 2 1/8. I believe larger 2 1/4 are also available that will fit into the caliper brackets.
Look for 64 Jag XKE.
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2) North American Rockwell. I have replacement door with a tag in it.
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I just looked up R5361. According to Fred Fox, it was also the first Avanti to be painted maroon.
1963 Avanti - Barnyard find
in Avanti Parts
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If the O.P. does not, I have a couple of spares.