64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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The biggest difference is the advance curve. If that is adjustable, it should work just fine. Many owners replace the prestolite dist with delco from non Avanti Stude.
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Studebaker International has/had a replacement 160 mph faceplate listed.
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You might want to look at rear brakes. After sitting that long, it is likely that they are frozen solid.
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Also check the windshield frame and a pillars, especially under the windshield reveal molding on the sides of the windshield. Quite often these items are completely rusted away. They can be replaced, but at a substantial cost.
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I am not convinced using the larger 2 1/4" caliper has any benefit. After all, the brake pads are not changing from the stock size of the 2 1/8". It seems to me that a larger caliper would require more pedal pressure as well.
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Sumis are a direct replacement. May be the only ones you can buy new. Of course, the originals were labeled Bendix. I have a few of those. Dunlop were an early replacement, not sure if any Studes came from the factory with dunlop. The sumis, used by some Datsun (Nissan) cars seem to work just as well as any of the others.
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Not sure about 81 Avantis, but for most cars, the door and ignition keys are the same.
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I could be wrong, but I believe it should be 700r4.
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Where are you located?
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IMHO, it is easily worth twice the offer. After all, just a new set of pistons and rings cost more than that.
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Studebaker International is showing them for $299.95. Confusing is that the sale ended 4/27.
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I believe we are discussing 2 different things. A tapered axle has a separate hub that is affixed to the axle via a key and nut. For flanged axles, the hub is part of the axle.
It seems like you are talking about a tapered seal?
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Are you sure about the tapered axles? I believe all Avanti IIs and later used flanged axles.
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Sometimes dieseling can be caused by the throttle plates not closing all the way. Could be cause of hard starting as well.
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There is also some anti rattle goop.
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You could probably have the slots cut. I assume that Studebaker did that.
I don't know why the difference, I assume the engineers knew what they were doing.
As far as aluminum, If you can find one, Lionel Stone cast one. Sometimes there were machining problems and they needed welding and remachining. If you go onto the SDC website, Jeff Rice, who goes by DeepNHock, makes adapters to use other manifolds.
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The intake casting number of 15557144 does not necessarily indicate the correct intake manifold. R1 intakes have the same casting number. The difference is the R1 does not have the transfer slots. The first picture is R1 manifold. R2 and other Studes have slots similar to the ones in picture 2 of an older WCFB manifold.
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Here are some pictures of Avanti water manifold. Casting number is 1555738.
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You need to check the casting numbers of the heads. If they end in 570, you would nave too much compression for S/C. IIRC, the R2 heads end in 582. Water pump manifold for Avanti R1 is the same as for R2. The standard Stude water manifold if quite different.
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All full flow blocks are the same. You can have a stock cam ground to R1/R2 specs. You could even do the Isky ST5 or R2+ grind. Hopefully, you do have a full flow block. Having the Avanti oil pan and breather tube is a plus as these are getting hard to come by. The R2 AFB intake is the same for all engines except for R1. Crank, rods etc are the same for all 289 engines. You should be able to go .060 over on the cylinders giving 299 C.I. to go larger, you should get the block sonic tested.
The heads are the same as low compression trucks of the same vintage. The exhaust valves and the valve springs are different.
I may have forgotten other differences, I am sure others will chime in.
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Since you are not staying original, it would be more cost effective to replace the drive train with SBC or LS, Tremac trans and Ford 9" R/A.
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If you mean the one and only long grill for a 63, I have a spare.
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I live just North of Parrish on 301. Send me a list and I will check to see what I have.
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Roy, where are you located? If near either Tampa FL or Crossville TN, I may be able to help with parts, encouragement, and/or expertise.
'63 R1 A/T Stuck in Park
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
With a hub puller, you run it up tight by hand, then with a dead blow hammer you pound on the ears to tighten further. After that, you whack the end of the puller to loosen the hub. If not successful at first, you tighten some more. Some have good luck getting the puller as tight as possible, then letting it sit for a bit. Please remember to put the nut so the threads of the axle are covered, that way you do not bugger them. Ensure that the adjusters are completely backed off and that the emergency brake cables are fully released. This should allow the shoes to separate from the drum. In case the shoes are frozen to the drum, lightly tapping on the side of the drum may loosen them.
This is only for rear brakes. The front discs come off by removing the cotter pin and nut.