64studeavanti
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Posts posted by 64studeavanti
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do you need the entire column then?
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My mistake, you do not need to remove dampener. You do need to remove the big crank pulley.
I would guess that if you cannot do the work yourself, plan on at least $2,000 for parts and labor depending on your local labor rate.
You can contact me via forum. That way, we are not publicly sharing personal information.
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Is yours bent? I have a spare.
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I)f I R)ecall C)orrectly.
I have almost all the parts. I could not find the special water manifold bolts and the auxiliary bracket that attaches the pump to the bolt in the exhaust manifold. I also could not find the clamps that attach to the frame to keep the hoses tidy. Those pieces are likely somewhere safe so I would not lose them. The bolts are available from Studebaker International for about $20 each. Thet are showing the exhaust maniford bracket for $26. They may have the clamps as well.
You should get new hoses and a belt. For little more than the cost of the hoses, about $240, Studebaker International has a kit with the hoses plus rebuild kits for the pump, ram, and control.
I don't know if you plan on doing the work yourself, but you will need to remove and replace the crankshaft dampener to install the pulley. There is a special tool for that. The rest of the installation is fairly straight forward.
Rebuilding the pump can be difficult. Studebaker International has a rebuilt for $218 plus exchange.
Also, some have commented that they could not get the control unit to stop leaking after rebuild.
If you are interested in these parts let me know.
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You would need pump and brackets with bolts, ram and bracket, P.S. bellcrank, P.S crank pulley, control assembly with reach rod and pitman arm as well as hoses and a couple of clamps to keep the hoses tidy.
IIRC, the steering gear ratio is different - you may want to change out steering box.
I may have a complete set of spares. I will check later this morning.
I would guess about 8-10 hours to install. Maybe a little more if you change the steering gear.
I don't have any idea on electric conversion. I am sure someone will chime in on that.
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For the Edelbrock to work correctly shouldn't something be done so the floats do not collapse?
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My guess is timing gear.
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Thinking this might be another trick question, I looked on the internet. The official name was Ross Tool and Gear Company later purchased by TRW.
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True
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Do not have link handy, but if you put seller:ccarspec in the ebay search you will get a list of everything he has listed on ebay.
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Ccarspec, Barry Hackney, has a 76 in Houston on Ebay. May be a little far for you.
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Maybe because the Avanti used a rag joint whereas the other models did not.
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IIRC, the plate just goes under the battery.
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Likely the one under the rear seat.
I just put some duct tape over it.
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1 55.
The R3 was rated at 335 and the R4 at 280.
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I have a similar tag on a spare door I purchased at one of the International meets. Not sure which year, but it does have the hole for the remote mirror.
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I have not noticed blocks on any of my Avantis. Can you post a picture?
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My best guess is that the 3 is an indicator of which mold was used for the casting.
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Here is picture of casting number.
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Regnalbob is correct. The heads have a casting number of 1557570 and a part number of 1557571. Please check your parts catalog.
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I will say false. My 64 R5408 was assembled 12/2/63. It is unlikely that 235 were assembled in the few days before production ended.
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There were several with 3spd trans. There were also several black Avantis. 4spd with hill holder was not rare (I have one). Therefore I will go with no radio!
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I do the same. Curious to find out if correct.
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Have you checked with SMS in Oregon? I got some Elk and Fawn from them a few years ago.
ADDING POWER STEERING TO A 1963 4 SPEED R2
in 1963-64 Avanti
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sent a message with contact info.