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Jim, I am interested in the wire wheel covers. Jeff

"Belzona"! That was my ex-wife's name😬

GuyByMy overhead switchs were not functioning at all. New ones are were not currently available so I decided to open up the switches and see if I could recondition them. They are very simple inside, mechanically nothing wrong, the lube they used on the inside had turned into a waxy substance that prevented the contacts from passing electricity. Degreased and cleaned contacts checked continuity from spade to contact and spade to spade then reassembled. Repainted rockers to freashen up the look, almost like new.

R5335, you are now clearly in the lead for first prize. Now, let me think; what should the "worst screwed-up Avanti" trophy look like? Maybe a piston with a hole in it? --Dwight, R-4228, R-5407

Wow!

My first purchase was a 63 Avanti 63R-1220. I knew it needed help but got a real big surprise when I tried to remedy the braking issue. The car had no brakes, I figured this could be an easy fix. Well, first, someone in the past replaced the Front disc brakes with drums? So I removed the drums to install the Turner disc brake setup and there was no hardware! No shoes, no springs, no nothing other than a clogged up rusted wheel cylinders. So decided to check the rear brake drums, dang same thing. Nothing. This car currently going under a major restoration, engine and transmission at the machine shops currently. The second purchase was a 64 Avanti, R-5335. The car looked Ok until I got underneath and started digging around. Someone tried to turn this R1 into a pseudo R3. First they replaced the steering system with a rack and pinion unit and replaced the suspension with a tubular setup. Turns out the rack and pinion unit interfered with the oil pan. One day trying to figure out why the pan leaks, I noticed a crack. I took a Sharp scrapper and started picking at it and only to find out the entire pan had been coated Bondo to hide the mess. In order to get the pan in, they had cut the pan up into several pieces, brazed it back together and to hide the deed, smothered in Bondo. The brazing job was not very good and had several leaks. Add to that the pan is all banged up I guess in the effort to get the engine in. Then the suspension system is a mess. I'm working this issue now. No way to get caster, camber and toe-in correct. Looks like I'll need shims to straighten this out. As far as the engine, the distributor was a wreck. Some left over Chrysler 1980's electronic unit. I've tried to remove it and replace with a new Petronix but can get the unit out. Something internally keeping it from being pulled up. I've had several folks try and no way. The engine will need to come out to fix this along with the pan. Then, there is a "Spider" gear inside the distributor that has a key to keep it in sync with the distributor shaft. Well, they used a wrong key, it kept falling through. When it did, I'd lose timing and had to retime it. Eventually figured this out and place a proper key in place to hold the spider gear in place. Finally, the engine runs like a champ but still dealing with the steering/suspension issues and eventually the pan issue. Currently, stopped 99% of the pan leaks with a metal epoxy called Belzona.

No problem, or you can email me at peterbacich@yahoo.com Ta pb

I' ll post some in a bit.

Jim, Do you have photos of the other used parts at all? Thx Peter

yes

What do you mean by "frame rails for a 64 R1"? Do you mean the frame rails that are about 15 feet long and weigh several hundred pounds? --Dwight

I have a set of frame rails for a 64 R1. Also a set of wire wheel hubcaps with centers and clips, also a lot of other used parts that came with the car when I bought it

I had a serious leak in the power steering system in my 64 Avanti R1. After rebuilding the pump, replacing all the hoses, it turned out to be the spooling valve. Sent it off to get rebuilt. No leaks now.

Like Ronmanfredi wrote. Check this might be missing or broken: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

Good question … I believe the knock sensor ‘alerts’ the onboard computer to retard the engine timing somewhat… Without a computer’s ‘help’, I don’t see how it could really work. (other than the light alerting you to take your foot off the gas a bit !)

Since a knock sensor should theoretically detect a ping before the driver could hear it, could a knock sensor be installed on the engine and wired to a red light on the dash in such a way to alert the driver?

Great info!

'63 R2. The left rear axle had stripped threads (how? I dunno) and the axle nut "secured" with red Locktite. Once around the block after I got it running, and the wheel nearly fell off. Thank goodness it was a literal block, because I was 1/2 way around when I knew something was way bad. I replaced the axle and then rebuilt the non-functional rear brakes... front brakes too. Oh, and it had about 3/4" of toe out.

Be careful upon reassembly. the shaft has a very sharp edge that can cut the new seal. I also look at the shaft to make sure it isn't grooves where the seal rides. I have had to install ready sleeves to repair them in the past. Also look at the reservoir to pump body gaskets. They are square shouldered "O" rings. Be sure the lid is vented properly, or it will leak again. Aftermarket repair kits sold by All the vendors use the wrong cover post stud gaskets.

R1 (570) heads will already have a tighter quench and squish than an R2 head, so there's that. In my experiences, dish pistons give better turbulence, and better combustion than flat top pistons.

I think it all depends on how you drive your Avanti…. If you feel your car has adequate performance now, I would leave it ‘as is’!

I agree with psdenno… and shaft seal not very hard to change once pump is off.

The difference in wheelbase lengths on the Lark is negligible (1/2”)… A driveshaft from any shorter wheelbase Lark with auto trans will work…(109–109 1/2” wheelbase) You will find a driveshaft from a Lark ‘6’ is smaller in diameter and ‘thinner’ walled, but it too will work in a pinch!

Start with the pulley shaft seal and then check the hose connections. Pulley shaft leaks are typical.