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Engine running, and the battery is registering about 12.6v (same as with car off, key-off). Also used the multimeter to test the 12v key-on power and nothing. Where's a good place to get the key-on power? There are 4 terminals on the external regulator, three go to the original alternator, one of which is supposed to be key-on power. Is it feed power from the battery side of the starter? Just looking for a clean way to grab that key-on power. Thanks.

I'm late to the game, but added the emblems to my 1980, both hood and sail panel. I like it. I bought the gold "S" buckles, but they quickly faded to silver. Disappointing, but they still look good. I also added the 63/64 wheel covers and plan to remove the front spring shims.

Do you have a voltmeter?… That would identify how much current and where it is going… or not going…. Even a basic 12V test lamp will allow you to ‘see’ the electricity.

Ok, I installed the new alternator and the car is running much better. However, the battery is not being charged by the alternator. Also, the ignition powered wire isn't delivering 12v. My only assumption is that the external regulator is actually bad. I rewired according to the above referenced article by Bill Henderson. Next step is to wire the BAT alternator terminal directly to the the battery, with inline 60amp fuse, and just bypass the regulator entirely. My next question is how to get 12v to the alternator when the ignition key is "on"? (My shop manual is in the mail and should be here Monday.) Thank you everyone.

I'm going to see if we still have any control over the site and possibly bring it to life again.

In addition… no extra holes to drill!..… The factory screw which retains console side upholstery can be utilized to support toggle switch by crafting simple ‘L’ shaped bracket.

That’s it… I have an ‘off-on’ toggle mounted on driver’s side console within easy reach. The lockup disconnect at rear of stop light switch is still functioning. My normal driving routine is to not lock the converter unless I’m on the highway, or higher speed secondary road. As I remember, the problem I found with the factory computer controlled converter lockup was that it locked to early… at too low an engine RPM causing what I can best describe as ‘lugging’. I heard many years ago that not allowing the converter to lock up automatically would damage the converter by overheating it…. In 15 years of manually controlled lockup, overheating has never happened… ALSO…. I believe the simplest way to accomplish this, if your Avanti has CCC, is to install toggle into the converter lockup switch wiring (at rear portion of stoplight switch)….located at brake pedal.

Ha!

The hydraulic brake switches suffer from a dual problem beyond aversion to silicone fluid…current ones are made offshore now and simply don’t last…and original, well made switches are old enough now that they’re suspect in how well they work for any length of time.

FINALLY! I got the rear brakes to engage. I replaced the "new" master cylinder I purchased from NAPA with a rebuilt one from Autozone. The NAPA was the issue. Brakes are doing the job. Now onto starting the car. It seems I get no voltage to the HEI distributer during cranking. But as soon as I release the key from crank to run the engine with start. Seems like no voltage in crank but its there in run. Is that a bad ignitions switch? It's a 72 with the GM collum switch. And do I need to replace the pink resister wire with a normal one? A diagram of the 72 starting circuit and switch would help me a lot.

Guslinger made some good points… Also, those hydraulic switches commonly fail… When in doubt… change it out!!! Or convert to a mechanical brake light switch.

You have "DOT 5" on your master cylinder cap so I assume that's what's in it. Silicone brake fluid is notoriously difficult to bleed all the air out of...the little air bubbles like to hide wherever they can and defy being bled out. If the car had standard DOT 3/4 fluid in it and wasn't completely flushed out and all the hoses replaced you will have spongy brakes or even fail in rare cases. The best performance cars don't use DOT 5 as strong cornering can cause bubbles in the system. DOT 5 also can kill the hydraulic brake switches...why I don't remember but it was explained to me once. The use of DOT 5 might be the cause of your problems.

Just beware of red, orange, or turquoise ‘salt’ !

OK… This changes the ‘picture’…… Eliminating computer controlled converter lockup on Avantis factory equipped with CCC is quite easy by removing the tan lockup control wire from the onboard computer and then completing the circuit by grounding that wire via a manual switch. (as I did on my ‘83) Your ‘A’ series Avanti never had a computer… so basically the internal lockup solenoid needs to be fed 12volts… and it’s negative (ground) wire (to frame) can be controlled with a switch. A wiring diagram pertaining to your transmission conversion would be helpful. Or, you can leave your Avanti, and your wallet, at a transmission shop… as others have suggested!

I was told this car didn't orginally have the valve and I was advised to remove it. I installed a residual check valve. Still not getting rear brakes to engage. Also, I could not find proportioning valve tool that fit mine when I did have it installed. So I could not center the thing.

I've been around Avantis forever and have heard many Avanti folks refer to "all" speckled colored carpeting as salt and pepper. Based on my history, it's odd to limit the term to just tan and black.

Yes, it has been

Let’s just say… More ‘natural’ than a 426 Chrysler Hemi !!!!!

I’m ask the administrator about this BTW …AG-R3.., your profile indicates you own an early ‘A’ series Avanti ll. That wouldn’t have a lockup converter… Or has it been retrofitted with a later ‘Turbo’ transmission?

That’s strange!…. I never requested to not receive messages

....... your PM capability has been rescinded.... You will get a response stating you "cannot receive messages"

Yes … black ‘box’ marked 2

(still awaiting my shop manual) Would one of these be the external regulator?

Still waiting for my shop manual to arrive. Thank you for any advice. It takes the brake pedal to be pushed about 95% of full range to activate the brake lights. Aside from slamming on the brakes for an unexpected obstacle, I don't think I ever really have the pedal go that far. It appears to be a hydraulic switch on the master cylinder, so not adjustable. Correct? The fluid is full, and since a trusted mechanic replaced all the brake lines with stainless, I'm sure that they were bleed properly. Also, the brake booster was rebuilt, and a new master cylinder installed. The brakes themselves work fine, and no squishiness, etc. A). Should I try and bleed the lines first to help diagnose (or if I need to replace the switch, I'll have to bleed them again). B). Do the switches fail? Or should I be looking elsewhere for my perceived issue? C). If they do fail, where might I start hunting for a new one?