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After doing my own repair I can appreciate the work that the restoration specialty shops apply to the task. However, I now know it's a project that can be completed by most Avanti owners if they have the time and the inclination. The cost of the rebuilding materials is about the same as a couple visits to Starbucks. The greatest cost was having the wheel professionally color matched and painted. If I had instead painted it myself with a close color match "rattle can", total cost would have been under $50. I enjoy the sense of accomplishment.

My ducts were warped almost closed. I had my windshield out for repainting so I took the opportunity to address this condition at that time. I made wedges from wood, heated up the ducts a little at a time with my commercial grade heat gun, and inserted the wedges into the defroster slots, while hot, to expand them. I let the ducts cool overnight and removed the wedges. My ducts are back to factory appearance and shapes. May not last but they won't be out in the sun like the first 60 years. I do like that metal "fix" described above, though. I'll bet a supplier could use one of those digital parts copiers by using the first metal plates as patterns.

There are a number of steering wheel restoration specialty shops listed in Hemmings under services offered. I've used several over the years. They are expensive but come with a guarantee and the work is phenomenal. Woodgrain wheels also.

Not gonna debate your basic point, but should note that your statement that Avanti IIs came with Chevy 350s from about 1965 to 1985 is not really correct. The first Avanti IIs came with 327s, and the 1972-76 models came with 400s. And a lot came with 305s after that (too lazy to look up the exact years). Avanti Motors tended to buy whatever Chevy small-block V8s were available in bulk at the time. Chevy 350s were/are truly ubiquitous, but many other variants existed at one time.

SCPO-PD... Your engine mounts will be the same but if they're old replace 'em with the ones pictured below for Corvettes (Avanti factory OEM also). I believe there is also a kit available to control the lockup torque converter from B&M, but your re-builder will probably be able to advise you. Youtube features some how-to's on that subject. Engaging the Lockup is one thing but disengaging it automatically when coming to a stop is another. If you are getting away from the ECU, Carburettor and Distributor, you might like to dice the EGR Valve & solenoids, Smog Pump, Pipe to the Catalytic converter (if it's still there), AIR system Valve and Manifold tubes as well. You can close the holes in the manifolds using lengths of 1/2"-20 UNC screws/plugs. A plate can cover the EGR flange on the Intake Manifold or replace it with an aftermarket one.

THANK YOU THESE ARE GREAT

Kieth This is a colorized version that has the different system's separated. Scroll down to the 63-64 Avanti. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eSSmIKiSS8lzc9kPYRm4Uk3yeu72TIlj Steve

THANKS DALE

Keith, Here is Diagram from Workshop Manual, as well as Circuit info. That's all I have - hope it helps. Dale

DALE THANK YOU THERE IS ALSO ANOTHER PAGE.. DO YOU HAVE THAT??

Keith, See if this is what you are looking for. Dale

Also, another good idea if you live in a warmer climate, is to plug off the radiator’s internal transmission cooler, and install a quality remote transmission cooler in front of (or below if possible) the radiator. Your transmission, and your engine, will thank you!!

Just letting folks know there’s a second very simple option!

Sure, you can do that, but why add that to the driving task when a simple change in the valve body makes it automatic? He's already having the transmission beefed up for more power, so the valve body will already be out anyway.

Hello Friends,. Anyone have a digital file of the 2 page wiring diagram for the 63 Avanti?? Thanks KEITH

No need to open the trans to keep the lockup functioning…. A simple on/off toggle switch will do the job… Did this to my ‘83 Avanti ‘everyday driver’ about 15 years ago when I ‘deep sixed’ the computer system.

The transmission lock up converter is controlled by the ECU that you are removing. The transmission shop can make a modification to the valve body to fix this while they are working on it.

We need to remember here that when the Studebaker V8 was initially designed, future horsepower increases were to come from compression ratio increases….. not from a large expansion in cubic inches…. The engineers felt that high octane and ultra high octane gasoline would be available forever……. Studebaker V8 engines, considering their limited cubic inch capacity, were built considerably stronger than other period engines…. Designers of the Stude V8 were expecting compression ratio increases over 12 to 1…..possibly as high as 14 to 1 !

“Lower earth orbit”?… quite an exaggeration…. but I think what you’re saying is that Studebaker lessened the compression ratio on the R2 for warranty concerns… which I suspect myself! ( Once again….. has anyone actually heard of a stock Avanti R1 engine, which a standard Paxton ball drive supercharger had been installed on, failing?)

Didn’t Studebaker state there was no warranty on an R3 engine…and it had 9.75:1 CR? And the R3 was Granatelli developed. They must have expected a combination of a supercharger and R1 heads to grenade on a regular basis and send parts into lower earth orbit. That would have made for some really bad publicity and lawsuits.

I’d like to repeat this question…. Since a ‘as new’ Avanti R2 supercharged engine (9-1 comp) was rated by Studebaker at 289 horsepower….What would Stude have rated the horsepower to be if that same engine had an additional 1 1/4 point higher static compression?

RQB3263/81/305/700R4 WOW WOW WOW .......YOU BEEN CHANNELING ME FOR MONTHS NOW .. AND YOU DECISIONS ARE EXACTLY WHAT I WILL DO WHEN MY 305 RETIRES.... PERFECT ... PLEASE KEEP IN TOUCH HERE AS I WANT TO ... I WILL PROBABLY GO WITH A BULEPRINT 350 BUT CAST IRON HEADS FROM A 92 ROADMASTER /CAPRICE...NOW I JUST HAVE TO OUTLIVE MY 305 ... HUMMMMMM

Thanks. JB

1 and 2 are kind of humorous for us older folks, but also true. I friend told me that my 185 OHV6 Champ was pinging, but I could barely hear it once he pointed it out. Which begs the question: With modern engines having knock sensors, is there a way to add one to a Stude to have a warning light or something?

Yes, a great time to rid yourself of the ‘Computer Command Control’ system … Go with an Edelbrock carb and the earlier vacuum advance distrib!