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Those holes (without the plugs) are to let boost into the passageways to equalize boost pressure from the throttle plate bores to outside the bores of the throttle shaft, so it doesn't push fuel out the throttle shaft.

It's in the mail now...Shipped it out Friday.

hi John, wilfelr, kodjo and rhusak, thank you for your Inputs and recommendations! Very much appre iated. I will try and come back with the results ...

Thanks Ron- I will compare that carb number to the ones I see here in Oz and pick one up eventually. My 305 will likely require a re-jet smaller , I excpect.

Thanks MFG- I have recently fitted a dual exhaust (minus Cat- I'll take a risk.. ) whilst the body is off the Frame. The Carb and Distributor are up for substitution after I get the car reassembled and inspected for roadworthy. I'm looking for an Australian delivery carb that was jetted for the Holden 308 or Pontiac Parisiennes befor the late 70's.

cue Dolly Parton's "Coat of Many Colors" and you'll understand Avanti sourcing. I think I responded to your inquiry on FB, but if someone missed it: I bought a plastic gas cap at AutoZone for around $12. Fits just fine, but you have to align it to clear the chintzy keyed lock Mr Blake put on the filler door. Don't get me started on other oddities found on Blake Avantis 😵‍💫

Hello Stefan, I have had the same issue with several cars. Gaskets never seem to do any good no matter how thick they are. The reason is the heat is transfered directly through the mounting studs to the carb. Until you isolate those it will continue to percolate. The best solution I have found is to mount a 3-4 PSI pump near the tank, and run it when the ignition is on. I have an R2, a 62 fuel injected Corvette, a 32 Chevy and a 96 Sea Ray boat I'm doing this with now with no issues. Best of luck, John C.

The 7 pin round plug is for speaker amp to connect to the radio. There are 4 positive speaker wires, 1 ground, 12V and switched 12V. The amp takes the 4 speaker signal wires and the single ground input and sends out a pair of wires for each speaker with a + and - for each speaker. (strange set up if you ask me). The radio also had a wire remote option, so I'm guessing that is what the board may be for?

I have a service manual for that unit, but can not post on this forum for some reason. If you need it, PM me and I can email you a PDF copy. Bill

Thank you, the picture really helps.

Okay, ill be careful

We may be talking about different items. I've attached a picture of the PCB that sits on the radio...apologies for the poor quality, but my cheap flip phone has a cheap camera.. Anyway, I did a continuity tests between 3 of the speaker wire connectors (Becker 2pin DIN) and the each of the 9 pins on the connector to the "amp". I got nothing. I would expect an external amp to be connected to the AUX output (round 7 pin connection plug) and that had no connection. So I am still curious as to what it is for (on my system)

While the door panels are easy to remove and put back on, repeated re-screwing can make the connection into the fibreglass loose. After much work on my doors (and some stripping of the fibreglass interior door panels) , I ended up enlarging the holes, squaring out the circle and placing plastic (locking) inserts that would accept the screws. This made the panel more secure against the door

Thanks Gunslinger

Call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. He was an Avanti dealer through the Blake era. If he doesn’t have a NOS cap in stock he’ll know what car it came from.

This was some years back…but I saw a R3 intake on the shelf at Myer’s Studebaker in Ohio. I’ve no idea if it’s still there…Jon Myer had a number of R3 engines on stands as well.

Buying

Thanks guys. I just wasn’t sure where to start. My car looks like an amalgamation of parts. Ignition switch (and key) look to be of Chrysler heritage. Engine/Trans is GM. Frame is Studebaker! It’s interesting!

The carb number on my 1980 350 is 17080204. It's not computer controlled, thank goodness. It should be perfect for your '81

Thanks Dwight, will try and lube up the door cylinder. Maybe it will start working.. Yes I have a friend with a mobile locksmith business..

Normally, you should have TWO keys, one for the ignition & doors, and another for the console & glove box. That's how Studebaker did it, and your car is a '70, so should be the same. Many times the ignition switch fails and is replaced. That's how a car becomes a three-key car. The door panels can be removed easily. Perhaps a locksmith can reset the door lock cylinders to match the ign key. Or, at least, he can make a key for the door locks. May have to look online these days for locksmith services. --Dwight

It's mounted in the engine compartment on the fender well in the typical place. Much easier to install there than next to condenser

Read that I should have three seperate keys , door, console and ignition. I only have the ignition key.. Wondering if the door cylinder tumblers can be reset to accept the ignition key. Had this done on my 63 Comet convertble. "I know a guy"... is door panel removal pretty straightforward..? Working on my 70 rqa0387. TIA

Sold $39750!

The radio puts out a low-level speaker signal to the amp. The amp boosts the signal to the speakers. You need the amp to get any sound.