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I was an infant in the late 60s, but here's a question: Did people not hydrate back then when they went on car rides? Let's document our various hacks for holding drinking vessels. I was recently at the Swap Meet in South Bend and took a couple of photos (I guess only one).

We used sandpaper only, no chemicals. We used cleaner to remove dust and possible oil residue. I think the cleaner was thinner. We used a primer, 2k epoxy filler, 2 layers of 1k base coat and a top coat.

Did you use any chemical paint stripper on the area. Is it the area where you did bodywork prior to the repaint?

No silicone in the barn. The problem is not the adherence but something that grew under the paint.

There was no silicone products used at any time on the body was there? Silicone penetrates the fiberglass and leaches out over time keeping paint from adhering.

Then I assume the black line to the left is the overflow since it runs into the floorpan and down

Ok, Thanks. I'm considering a 2" drop spindle and a few other things for my '73'. The info helps.

Yes, I-phone 14… ‘Still swinging’ on this… Thanks for your concern!

I would wait for a few months and see if the problem area gets bigger before stripping the area and repainting it. I'm guessing that something penetrated the fiberglass before it was sealed/painted and it's just now showing up. While it looks bad, I'm sure you don't want to redo it more than once.

Do you recall seeing where your phone (i-phone?) recently had a software update? I'm wondering if a setting changed in Safari (if you have an I-phone)

Bought these for rear, drop in replacement: KONI 8040-1018: https://finder.koni.com These were made for a CHEVROLET CAMARO and PONTIAC FIREBIRD but will do on any Avanti II

I had my car repainted last winter. I did the disassembly, sanding, and bodywork myself, but a friend handled the spraying. Now, after a long period of heavy rain (the car is parked outside), bubbles are forming in the paint. Luckily, it’s only in one spot—right under the rear quarter window on the driver’s side. As far as I remember, there wasn’t anything special about that area when the car was stripped down. Any advice on what to do?

Avanti Motors was still using Studebaker parts until 1985 for suspension parts. What they might have run out of they reportedly stamped the parts out on tooling purchased from Studebaker.

In 73... was Avanti using Avanti parts or Chevy for things like A-Arms and the likes.? If Chev, what model did they source from?

Ended up at my local phone store… Salesperson appeared to have solved the issue…. A short time later, phone reverted to my having to log in every time I open this forum. Oh well, I’m still here, but continually having to log in will hamper my posting somewhat. (not the biggest problem out there!!)

Could be… I’ll check that… Thanks!

Various shots of my 2002 Convertible, purchased in April 2024.

I have the Avanti White lacquer as well. What color is your inside? Mine is Royal Orange. One of my winter projects is to get the clock to work. I contacted Instrument Services (clocksandgauges.com) in Illinois about my 63 R1 clock, and he said he doesn't work on those nor does he sell parts for it. 🤷‍♂️ I'm going to convert it to a 12v A23 battery (https://amzn.to/4uU3SUV) that is wired closer to the fuse panel so that it's easy to replace, and it's not reliant on the 3EE, as I routinely disconnect it at the terminal (https://amzn.to/4vPf8Tf). I'll be sure to document my trials and tribulations. (My other winter project is to replace the rusty gas tank that is giving my 2 inline filters something to do and racking hell on the carb.)

Worked fine this morning. Is your browser set to delete cookies when you shut it down?

Nope. It's operating normally for me.

Anyone else having to ‘sign in’ and give email address & password when going on this forum? (every time)….This requirement started yesterday. Seems odd… Any thoughts about this?

I covered this hole with some foam (temporary) to see how it affects the heat. According to my passengers, they don't feel the warm air any longer. I also decided to see where else the heat could be entering the cabin from. There's the firewall with the engine and the exhaust system below (in fact, the mufflers are under each of the front seats). So, I added a ceramic and metal blanket over the top of each muffler to start. I may cover some of the exhaust tubing and see if that helps too. I can definitely tell a difference by covering the mufflers. And it didn't start a fire! This is the product: https://amzn.to/4v80Ywl Any words of warning?

The crevice is where the clip is. There may be a thin piece of plastic touching the inner part of the handle. If so, the clip is between that piece and the handle.

Thanks @ronmanfredi . Just to clarify my markup, B is the space between the leather door panel and metal piece, and A is is the crevice between that metal piece and the rotating handle.

There is a standard spring clip between A and B. There is a clip removal tool available at most part stores, etc., designed for this. Then remove the door panel and the latch striker. Check the alignment at the front of the door. If it looks good, then loosen the hinge bolts on the door, leaving the lower bolt on the lower hinge snug. With the door closed, raise the back of the door until it is where you want it and snug one upper hinge bolt. Check all the gaps and if you are satisfied, then tighten all the bolts. Now reinstall the striker and adjust it to where the door closes correctly. Lastly, check the vent and window alignment with the top and adjust those before reinstalling the door panel.