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I put the control valve seals in the correct way per the shop manual and turned the adjusting nut the proper turns again per the manual. I checked the orientation of the hoses as well. I even installed a new pump and have circulation. Maybe the power cylinder is not working and just passing fluid in and out? I have no leaks as well. (first time for that after owning 4 cars with the Bendix system!)

I still have a bad vibration from about 35mph on up. I can rev the engine in neutral up to 3,000 rpm and it's smooth as silk. But driving in gear the car vibrates. I put it on jacks and removed the rear tires and it still vibrates running in drive, so it's not tire imbalance. I also replaced the ujoints and the motor mounts and rear transmission mount. I'm baffled!

If somebody have an early Avanti II with 4 speed , i'm interesting about under car transmission pictures 😊 Thanks

The following is taken from Bob Johnstone's Studebaker Resource Website. My understanding was that the Avanti II, ie post 1965, the body was raised about 3" to accommodate the SBC 327. Similarly, I was informed the even the Studebaker R3's, the bodies were raised about 1.5-2 inches to accommodate the R3 supercharger airbox. I can attest to that, my 64R5335 was modified with an R3 type airbox but it rubs against the underside of the hood, the body wasn't shimmed up to accommodate it. I think the R2 airbox is lower in height and so it didn't require shimming. Newman - Altman spent 1965 re-engineering the car for the GM engine, upgraded upholstery and other amenities. There were no official 1965 models. Any cars titles as a 1965 are rare, most are regarded as '66' models. In '65, the R-series engine options under Studebaker also disappeared and the vehicle numbering system went from "R-xxxx' to 'RQA-xxxx'. They adapted the GM 327 Cubic inch/300 HP through a custom bellhousing and coupled it to the existing Powershift (FMX type) transmission. The remainder of the car stayed, as Studebaker had produced it, with the exception of the emblems.< The installation of the new engine required the body to be pivoted upward in front, in order to accomodate its dimensions. This was accomplished by using varying thicknesses of steel shims along the frame mounting points. The resulting, additional, three inch gap between the fender and top of the wheel was remedied by installing filler pieces at the top of the wheel opening. The 327 engine & 2.5" exhaust manifolds into 2.25" exhaust pipes remained throughout 1969 production. It in 1970 the 350/300 was installed and the exhaust manifolds went to 2" with 2" exhaust ( reportedly to be much easier to install ) . Again the 350 was coupled with the original Powershift (FMX) transmission or T-10 four speed. The first 350 equipped Avanti II was RQA0315. Ref.. The first 400 cubic inch engined Avanti was the first 1972 Avanti...RQB1801. That was with a 2-barrel carburetor. The first 400 cubic engine Avanti with a 4-barrel carb was RQB2050 (1974 model year). Ref.. For those that want a trivia point, the "II" in the Avanti II emblem was made from the Lark's V-8 emblem, by cutting off the first 2 characters of the "VIII" - (VIII -> II) Nate Altman and Molded Fiberglass Co (MFG) Page 1 Page 2

RQB 3263/81 ... WELL THE FRONT ALIGNMENT IS DONE AND I MAY NEVER KNOW IT WORTH MY $125.00 .....SO NOW I AM TACKLING THE TRACK (TRACTION) BAR REHAB ... 3263 TRACK BARS WERE ALL ORIGINAL AND A BIG MESS... I RECEIVED THE RUBBER BUSHINGS (4) FROM STEVEN ALLEN HERE IN GAINESVILLE FLORIDA AND HOPE TO PICK UP THE STEEL SPACERS (2) TODAY.... I ALSO HAVE FROM THEM NEW REAR SHOCKS TO INSTALL....... TRACK BAR REMOVAL NOT EASY BUT YES CAN BE DONE WITHOUT REMOVING REAR WHEEL ....45 YRS OF NEGLECT DIDNT MAKE IT EASY.... I HAD TO CUT ONE OF THE REAR BOLTS TWICE TO GET IT OUT... ONE FWD SHOULDER BOLT IS IN GOOD REUSABLE CONDITION BUT THE OTHER WAS IN BAD SHAPE AND REQUIRED A SLEEVE BE MFG AND INSTALLED (.75 OD X 1.5 IN.LONG) WHICH MEANS THE DAMAGED SHOULDER BOLT HAD TO BE GROUND DOWN TO ALLOW THE SLEEVE TO FIT OVER AND INSTALLED WITH LOTSA JB WELD...... TRACK BARS SAND BLASTED PRIMED AND PAINTED AND ALL NEW GRADE 8 HARDWARE READY MAYBE FRIDAY ... YAAAAA I MAY INSTALL THE REAR SHOCKS TODAY .... EASY JOB .... FAMOUS LAST WORDS ....MORE ON THIS WHEN ITS ALL DONE .....AND I HAVE RECUPERATED FROM MY THURSDAY TRYPTOPHAN RUSH... HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL .... BILL IN FLORIDA ...

I have heard that non-Studebaker Avantis were shimmed higher to remove the rake. The rubber shims are between the frame and body. Maybe not needed on non-Studebaker cars as they sit up higher.

Yes, those shims are all ‘factory’ on the ll’s !

Good for You and I am truly happy things work like that for You. It hasn't gone like that for us. I've had 67 vehicles... Only 1 bought new (first car) and I ran it into the ground for 12 years and 250k miles. I figure I got my money out of that car . The rest were to get around but always in my mind has been to sell later for more or use it up until it gets hauled off on a hook. Since I've been blessed mechanically It was possible to do this... Everyones situation and abilities vary.

Hi 64studebakerAvanti- Yeh lots of shims but it is an Avanti II with a Chevy engine so I wonder if that's why. About an inch at the Hogtroughs. When I put the body back on I will be looking as to whether I might eliminate a few, perhaps. Your comment about Rubber insulators for the Mufflers - are these rubber Suspension Straps for the restraint of the Exhaust system or something else? I have recently had a full dual Exhaust bent up and fitted to this chassis buildup.

Wow Zedman, a lot of shims. I have removed bodies from 3 Stude Avantis and have experienced a lot fewer shims. Basically, the steel shims I have encountered are 1/8" and 1/4". Maybe total of 1/2" inch at cowl. The hogs had at most 1/4". You do not seem to have the rubber shims that insulated the mufflers. They are located just where the exhaust pipes come in at front and where they exit at the rear of the x member.

I have owned many boats, rv's and vehicles, never bought any of them to 100% make money. I bought to enjoy that said item. I wanted the enjoyment that item would give me and my wife. Been blessed that our hard work and saving has allowed us the life style we have. Yes, a few things i bought did sell for a tad more than purchase, but that was not why we bought. We got the use, that was what we wanted, could afford and had the time to use. So when I decide to sell this Avanti conv, I will sell for whatever I can get at that time. Will I loose money, probably, but have enjoyed the car when we were out and getting thumbs up from others. Everyone has different wants/needs and desires, much is what they can afford. I figured we can't take it with us so might as well have fun while we are here to enjoy. t

Grant mills i do not have the measurements for the spring they are already mounted plus I think my grandfather might have built a coustom spring pack. Each pack has a total of 8 springs and the top one is flipped. Thank you everyone for the great feed back

MFG. Good points and the stability of the markets is not always predictable.... but research over (say) 10+ years can show trends.. with market fluctuations. That said. Your 401K plans are also at risk of the same thing.. (I lost my ass(ets) in 2008). Being I went down the standard investment s... hole in the past, these Vehicles are a far more stable market, BUT.. They must be treated as such IF Your going to get ahead in the vehicle game. And it to me is a safer investment.. Like any Investment much research and time must be done to follow trends. I'm not a Master in that realm but I have watched the Vehicles rise and fall a little,,, but nothing near as bad as the Markets. I also see better offerings in the Vehicle Markets because YOU set the Purchase prices by buying at (say) 50% or more from what the Market is bringing.. Not true when doing stocks/bonds. Their prices are set... no fluctuations. No Negotiations. That said, IF You buy well below market value, You should be safe. You see. I'm in this to win,,, not just because I love a certain model car. As said... I can't afford to lose ... and so far so good. This must offend many that I'm not buying for the desire to own a certain model... BUT.. I do get to buy them.... Just under my terms.

I will also add that (in my opinion) the condition and history of the specific car being sold means much more than a broad 1-5 valuation system…. A condition 1-5 evaluation may be practical for modern vehicles, but for a 50+ year old car there are just too many variables.

I understand your strategy, however no one can be sure if a collector car’s value will increase or decrease over a specific time period… and as I mentioned earlier, sale prices on many collector type vehicles seem (to me) to have held steady or somewhat decreased.

I know this is going to possible\y offend or disturb some, but it's where I have to be. There's an old saying...."The profits are made at the time of purchase!" So to not be aware of the end game market price, and knowing if or if not the Market on the Vehicle will increase is a major loss to many folks . ... I can't (won't) buy without a significant built in profit. I see too many people buying just because it's their dream car. That attitude can be very costly in the end game. If You can afford funding losses, Enjoy! (Would You do this with Your stock investments?) I have to approach any ''Hobby'' as a ''Business Venture''. No matter how much I LOVE the Hobby, if it doesn't show a profit, I personally can't afford to participate. This means, that I also won't restore or Retro a vehicle unless the calculated end game makes a profit (labor included)... I'm just not in the Financial Class to afford to make big mistakes. I'm glad many of You have expendable cash to play with, but that's not the hand of cards that I was dealt.

Doing a Frame-off rebuild is a challenge, but boy oh boy, the satisfaction is so rewarding. . Not to mention the ease of buildup because you can get at everything because it's right in front of you. The feedback you are getting is dead accurate but I'll post some photos for your benefit. The following comments and photos relate to my 1981 Avanti II The 1/8" approx rubber 'tyre sidewall material' live up on the Crossmemeber above the Rear Axle as shown in the picture. These were not bolted- rather just taped on. I think these were an anti chafe measure There are two Rubber Doughnuts (water splash mitigation?) interposed between the upper X Frame rails and the body where the Seat Belt bolts go through At the 'A" pillar/Toeboard there are a stack of large 1/4" thick shims- the top one of these is longer to offer more contact with the fibreglass and is not shown that way in one photo, but is in a closeup.. At each Body mounting along the Frame there is a stack of 1/8" STEEL Shims 1 1/2" x 2" (and some thinner ones for fine adjustment) There is a STEEL shim at the rearmost tubular steel crossmember pad- mine only had one of 1/8" and it measured approx 1/12" x 3" And just in case you don't have one, (add one !) there is a Battery box Reinforcement bar up front and on the left top Frame The photos here should show all of these details...

I didn’t buy my car with investment in mind, I just wanted one, and when it comes times to sell I’ll get what I can. Mike Exactly, these cars to me was not an investment vehicle, but something my wife and I wanted. When the time comes to sell it off, we will end up with whatever the buyer is willing to spend. I can say well it is worth SO MUCH, but unless the buyer comes up with that amount , it isn't worth that. It will be worth what the buyer and I agree to.

It's good if You have the free cash to do so.

That's as realistic an attitude a one could have.

My brother-in-law had Memory Lane Motors in the Seattle area for 20 years. People who had spent a lot of money restoring their car and decided to sell would bring them in to see about selling on consignment. With parts, paint, tires and wheels, new upholstery, etc, it was very easy to have more in their car than the market would support. I didn’t buy my car with investment in mind, I just wanted one, and when it comes times to sell I’ll get what I can. Mike

RQB3263/81 .... WELL NOW THAT MY FRONT "A" ARM BUSHING PROJECT IS COMPLETE .....ALIGNMENT IS NEXT THIS WEEK.... THEN NEXT IS THE TRACK BAR BUSHINGS AND REAR SHOCKS ..... IM LOOKING FOR ADVICE AND SOURCE MFG AND P/N FOR UP-GRADED REAR SHOCKS .... THANKS ALL .... HAPPY THANKSGIVING FROM THE FREE STATE OF FLORIDA.... BILL

I was curious about that. Thanks for the info.

wow, I just saw this message .....Sorry I missed you

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