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Can someone please tell me the battery tie down used for this group 51 battery? I'm trying to do it without drilling new holes. Thank you!

The ‘high fuel tank situation’ has been a chronic Avanti problem since day one!

Close Ron, but no cigar. My post wasn't as clear as I had intended. The carb is off being cleaned and reassembled, but the fuel line had dripped at lest a quart before I saw it. I did jack up the front of the car and that fixed that, so it's not really the problem with starting, it's just that the fuel level was higher than the inlet to the carb. The other question, (now separate from the dripping fuel line), is could the purge valve be causing my flooded starting conditions?

If you are saying that gasoline is leaking onto the engine where the metal fuel line threads into the carb body, then the only reason for that is the fitting isn't seating correctly when tightening. If so, then double check the flare on the line and carb to be sure they are clean and smooth. If so, then you will use the new filter/gaskets PLUS apply about 3-4 loops of plumbers' tape around the threads of the "Nut" threads to aid in sealing. You want the tape to only be on the threaded area of the nut. Be sure both threaded sections are clean before assembly. A little rubbing alcohol used on the threads before wrapping and installing will help dry off the threads to help the plumbers tape do its job.

RQB3263..... EXHAUST/TAIL PIPE/MUFFLER BLOCKAGE ...COLLAPSED MUFFLER.....ANOTHER POSSIBILITY

Thank-you everyone. I guess I have my work cut out for me!

RQB3263...... BRAND NEW DOESN'T GUARANTEE CORRECT OR QUALITY .... WELL THATS ANOTHER STORY.....CHECK WATER PUMP BELT TENSION ... AND IGNITION TIMING....IN COMBINATION BUT MORE THAN LIKELY ONE THING RESTRICTING AIR OR WATER FLOW AND NOT A MAJOR PROBLEM WITH YOUR NEW ENGINE..... INTERESTING KEEP IN TOUCH HERE... BILL IN FLORIDA

RQB3263..... MICHEAL PHILLIPS 215-260-8377 AIR DAM SUPPLIER MANUFACTURER

RQB3263/81/305 .... THERE ARE STILL SEVERAL THINGS YOU CAN DO ... ALL TOGETHER MAY HELP .... INDIVIDUALLY NOT SO MUCH ...AIR DAM WILL HELP DOWN THE ROAD ... I GOT MINE FROM MICHEAL PHILLIPS IN PA....I BELIEVE HE IS THE ONLY MFG./SUPPLIER.....PICK A TARGET TEMP I SUGGEST 200 DEGREES RUN IT TO THAT POINT AND SHUT IT OFF AND COOL DOWN... TIME IT AND DO IT AGAIN ...EACH TIME IT SHOULD TAKE LONGER UNTILL IT WILL RUN AT 200 CONTINUOUSLY ... THIS WILL INDICATE YOUR ENGINE BREAK-IN IS COMPLETE ... CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER .... ALSO INSTALL A TRANS COOLER AND GET THAT HEAT OUT OF THE RADIATOR ... I NEVER COULD UNDERSTAND THAT ... REMOVE THE HEAR RISER VALVE FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD ... IS YOUR ELECTRIC FAN BLOWING THE RIGHT DIRECTION ?? BE SURE THE THERMOSTAT IS 180 WITH 4 OR 5 .. 3/16 HOLES DRILLED .... HOW ABOUT THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER NOT IMPOSSIBLE IT HAS THE WRONG IMPELLER... IVE SEEN IT BEFOR ...ALSO IN THE SUMMER TIME I SPACE THE HOOD LATCHES UP 3/4 INCH REQ LONGER BOLTS... 5 MINUTE JOB ...AND SWITCH BACK AT THANKSGIVING ....

Yes…an air deflector directs more air to the radiator that would otherwise create turbulent airflow under the car. It serves no purpose idling but really helps at speed.

New info: I received my carb kit from Quadrajetpower.com, and began dismantling the carb. The good news is that the carb is clean inside, has already had the throttle shafts bushed and the well plugs epoxied, so it appears to be remanufactured, though not recently based on the outside grime. Remember the engine ran well, idled well, accelerated well, no issues other than being flooded at start, and blocking the choke open did not help. What is troubling, is that even with less than 1/2 a tank of gas, fuel keeps dripping out of the fuel line where it went into the carb. (I've not yet completed the carb, so the line is open, save a piece of towel to keep trash out). Best as I can measure, the carb is above the fuel level, though that can be tricky to figure. I loosened the fuel cap to see if pressure had built up, but no sound of air whooshing, and the fuel keeps dripping. I'm starting to wonder if either the vapor canister is flooded or the purge valve is bad, causing that, and indirectly flooding the engine after sitting overnight. What do you all think?

I pulled the trigger and bought a 350 long block freshly professionally rebuilt. I have a brand new aluminum Avanti radiator. I have a heavy duty racing water pump and electric fan. The new engine needs to be run a 2,000 rpm for 30 mins to break in. I can't run it for 15 mins without the temp guage pegging to 240 and it overheating. I've purged the air out as well. I am lost why this thing won't run cooler. If I can't fix it soon, it will have to be sold at a huge loss. A friend told me that Avantis have an inherant air flow problem through the radiator. He said some people got more flow installing an air dam. Has anyone tried this? Or does anyone make an aftermarket add on?

Thank You my Friend, I got my fuel pump on today and drove it for the first time since March of 2017 and the tail lights and side marker were on while the car was running. When I turned the key off they went out.... thanks for the information//// Brooks

Above the interior rear view mirror (front centre ceiling)

could someone tell me where the headlight switch is for my new to me 1985 avanti?

From Avanti Magazine Issue 187 Summer/Fall 2019 article by Curtis Fischbach AOAI Michigan member 1. The latch assemblies mounted in the header were from ASC, Inc., of Southgate, Michigan. The handles were shortened since the Avanti was narrower than the cars ASC, Inc. had made them for. Most of these latch parts could be found in the Renault Alliance convertibles.

Be aware it’s easy to damage the two rubber o-rings when splitting the cases for a thorough clean out… Think space shuttle ‘Challenger’ !!

I was lucky to obtain a good used pair of manual Avanti window regulators a fellow from Florida sold me… He was parting out a wrecked ‘64.

I rebuilt my window crank last year, not having rivits I spot welded with mig the bushing cap , my crank shaft had a big groove in it which I welded up and then turned down on lathe, the cap itself was also worn the hole larger than when new, to remedy I swedged the hole by pounding with hammer and drift, same technique a watch maker uses to repair worn parts.

A 160’ thermostat may also help ( If your current thermostat opens at s higher than that temperature)

Hi John, wildfelr, kodjo and rhusak, So, the cross over the intake is blocked and a thick gasket between intake and carburator is in place. Also took the best fuel available (98 octan). As far as I can see, it seems to work. At least the engine did not die due to boiling fuel anymore. More tests to come on the weekend, but so far seems to work. Thank you all for your help!

I believe you will need to remove the original Rivets. These can be replaced with similar rivets if you trim the length so when assembled , you have only 1 x the diameter protruding. These can be gently mushroomed over with a hammer (buck the head end on a soiid flat steel surface) to secure the cover once again. Tinmen's or pan head rivets ought to do. You might even be able to use suitably sized flat head nails as substitute rivets (done that before). Pop rivets might do but use steel ones not Aluminium otherwise they might loosen up in service.

The entire steering column is likely a Mopar unit. Avanti Motors at different times used both Mopar and American Motors steering columns.

Need some tips to replace the crank area with new parts. Looks like I have everything (driver side crank) to replace but will be unable to press in holding pins on cover without separating from rest of the entire 1 piece mechanism assembly. Any ideas appreciated.