Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Past hour
  2. You sure do some interesting improvements to that car. Like what you have done.
  3. Today
  4. You might consider this sealant https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-coatings-sealants/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant-2-oz/ The website has a store locator included so you can avoid USPS delays.
  5. I've seen that more than once...having to undo what past owners have done before doing it correctly.
  6. Problem solved! I discovered that the connections at the fuse panel were reversed at the wiper circuit breaker. The ignition hot wire that should go to the common input of the fuse panel was on the oposite side of the wiper circuit breaker. Thus everything on the ignition circuit was going through the curcuit breaker before the common of the fuse panel. Everything worked until the additional load of turning on the heater motor and/or wipers. That additonal load would trip the breaker. All I had to do was reverse the connections and all is well. I guess I'm forever cursed with correcting previous owners mistakes!
  7. Thanks for the Pix's. Your link doesn't go direct to the vehicle and I see no means to do so.
  8. Our auto body supply stores are all gone... but ordering from one of the on-line suppliers is a good idea.
  9. Try an auto body supply store for the dum-dum. Or, is there some type of caulk in a tube that would never dry (sort of like dum-dum)? IIRC, the hose that loops down through the sail panel is used to vent the fuel tank. And, Avantis used that so they could use a sealed gas cap - correct? I assume that the thought was that gas could slosh out through a vented gas cap and damage the paint. Correct or not? So, is there really a danger of fuel sloshing out a vented cap? If not perhaps one could cap off the vent tube on top of the fuel tank & use a vented cap. Thoughts? --Dwight
  10. Thanks all. I drained the tank for now, it got cold again. I hope it's not the hose that loops up in the sail ;panel, that one is a pain to replace. And maybe that's only on the Studebaker Avantis and early A IIs. Now about the dum-dum. I've not looked for it in years, and I doubt I have enough left, but I don't recall seeing it at the FLAPS. And I hate Amazon. Any ideas of where I can get it? Or maybe even use caulk instead?
  11. Here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1528583763951075/?multi_permalinks=3785979311544831 The car appears to be a reasonably good car that deserves to survive.
  12. I still like the Gillig bus magnetic hood locks….. Very crafty!!!
  13. With the 2026 AOAI meet coming up in just a couple of months, I knew it was time to do one last engine compartment upgrade to our 2006 Avanti GT before we take it to Palm Springs. I’ve done a lot of appearance work under the hood yet there was one area around the top of the radiator that just didn’t look finished and that needed to be corrected. After opening and closing the hood a dozen times, I knew that I wanted a waterproof panel that was strong, that wouldn’t show in the front hood edge to front body nose gap when opened or closed. It also couldn’t go past the hood struts either. I wanted it to wrap around the individual parts mounted in the engine compartment, while not rubbing up against any part mounted to the engine. After measuring for the basic size, I cut two 12” x 22” pieces of 1/4” Luan plywood to create templates since I knew there would be several hours trimming, test fitting until everything looked right. Wanting them to be uniform in shape when joined together and being able to remove it if needed was another consideration. The Avanti front nose cap in front of the radiator has a lot of curves up and down, left and right that affected how level the piece would sit so test fitting and trimming was mandatory. And of course, the finished piece had to look good. While I was working on the final template layout, I order a sheet of 12” x 48”, 1/8” thick, epoxy based marine fiberglass off of eBay. The seller is a boat company who sells 1/8” – 1/2” thick panels cut to the buyers’ specs who I’ve used several times for flat panels. Here are a few photos of the process and the results.
  14. Here are some naked Frame photos- these may help... My Chassis was very salt corroded and some fuel lines were virtually rusted through and broke completely during removal. Are yours as bad as mine?
  15. Agree.. where's the link or photos? From what has been typed, it sounds like a mess.
  16. links are a good thing to post.
  17. Sorry, outer frame rails have the rips. Something hanging from dash on pass. side, looks like a gauge.
  18. I think dash was modified for a replacement radio, 2 holes on the X frame are ripped partially out also. Has a nice unshrunk steering wheel though. Underside is a little Mass eaten up.
  19. There is a 63 R1, auto, P/S, A/C, white, Red interior for sale on face book. Located in Mass. From what I could see the boxes are history, carb has been changed out also. $14,500
  20. You might want to look up the local SDC chapter. They may have a few hooks in the area....
  21. Yesterday
  22. When we started the AVX-2007 project, John mentioned that he was confident that he did have a lot more records of 2003-2005 models packed away in the dozens of storage boxes and cabinets. He just needs the time to locate and publish the info. On the records he doesn't have, he told me that he knew some other sources of records as well. It's all about what is a priority to him considering all the projects he is usually involved in. BTW, I do follow up with him about this a couple times a year.
  23. The Avanti II lines are on the passenger side and come from the fuel tank as rubber hoses to the metal lines in front of the right rear wheel. Leaks can occur in those old rubber lines, plus the filler neck hose. The rear seat and rear panel needs to be removed to get to those lines/hoses. Once there, I'd suggest replacing all rubber hoses and don't forget to seal the panel when reinstalling the rear panel with fresh dumdum. There are 2 rubber hoses at the fuel pump that need to be checked/replaced as needed.
  24. The Avanti II lines are on the passenger side and come from the fuel tank as rubber hoses to the metal lines in front of the right rear wheel. Leaks can occur in those old rubber lines, plus the filler neck hose. The rear seat and rear panel needs to be removed to get to those lines/hoses. Once there, I'd suggest replacing all rubber hoses and don't forget to seal the panel when reinstalling the rear panel with fresh dumdum. There are 2 rubber hoses at the fuel pump that need to be checked/replaced as needed.
  25. Hello Dwight, I’ve checked the tracking code 9505515180426006513158 and USPS confirms delivery on January 12, 03:03PM at Shelbyville, IN. With other words… the booster is at SI. Let's see what Jim has te say. / Have a nice day, Paul
  26. Ok, will do tomorrow (Wed). Attached is a copy of the receipt of what I think was the second booster. If it didn't get there I will have to file a claim with the USPS. --Dwight
  27. Last week
  28. If you feel the source of fuel leak is concealed, I’d pull out the rear seat and fiberglass back plate to reveal fuel tank and it’s connections.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...