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Starliner, hands down. Those wide white walls are da bomb!

...at the risk of being voted off the MFG Island, you might hit those plastic anchors with a dab of Gorilla Glue. They aint gonna budge no more!

Desert Driver, thanks for asking the question, because that's what teased out all the information. Recently my driver's outside mirror has become loose. I've discovered that somewhere along the way, someone used plastic sheetrock / wallboard inserts in the fiberglass instead of the correct well nuts. The screws are tight in the inserts, the inserts are loose in the fiberglass. Fortunately, the holes in the fiberglass are still really small. It looks like I'll be buying the correct well nuts very soon. Mark

I bled the new MC and installed it, and bled the front brake circuit over the weekend. One thing I noticed is that the front calipers have the same issue as the rear calipers. With the car level front to back and left to right, the bleed valves for the front calipers are not at the very top of the wheel cylinder. They are actually forward of center. I had to remove the upper caliper bolt and loosen the lower bolt, then rotate the top of the caliper towards the rear of the car about 20-30 degrees to put the bleed valve at the very peak of the wheel cylinder. The brake pads were still on either side of the rotor (barely). I prepared the rear calipers for bleeding by disconnecting the emergency brake cables and return springs from the calipers. Several months ago I found a super simple method to adjust the emergency brake brackets that are connected to the rear calipers. Most of the internet instructions have you remove the bracket from the caliper and use wrenches to re-position the automatic adjuster so that when the bracket is installed, it has the proper gap to the bracket. The instructions I found adjust the bracket without removing the bracket from the internal adjuster. I'm going to make sure I check the adjustment of the emergency brake brackets (again) the simple way, then bleed the rear calipers the same way I bled the front calipers: Removing the top bolts from of the calipers and loosening the lower bolts, then rotating the calipers to the rear to get the bleed valves to the top center of the wheel cylinders while the pads remain on either side of the rotors. If I ever get this to work, I'm going to be an expert at the Turner kit.

Solved (partially) It is part of the electrical control for the SkyTop power moonroof. When I put the new radio in, I found that my moonroof was dead. I finally traced it back to the above part. It seems that when I reconnected everything, I failed to fully connect that 7 pin connector. (Big hands, small opening, tight sockets) When I went back into the dash, I noticed that while the two connectors were joined, they were were only held in place by the friction of the plastic covers, but not seated. Fully seating the plugs restored the moonroof to operational.

Once again, you are misinterpreting the INTENT of the question… Seems like all other responders understood… and then came Regnalbob!! I have an idea… how about you posting a few trivia questions of your own instead of continually trolling me? Wouldn’t that be a more productive way of spending your spare time?

That’s pretty cool Mark!

The answer to the question is all of the above. Read the question. Odd that mfg could not figure that out.

I replaced the bushings on my car last year. On my '84, the rear sway bar is larger than the earlier ones (3/4" vs 1/2) . The square bushings I was originally sent (from Avanti Parts and Restoration) were too small and when I contacted the seller about this, they sent me larger replacements which they said were from the front sway bar but fit the rear properly.

According to Regnalbob's list, for 22 Avanti owners it was their second Avanti!

That makes sense….. Odd that Regnalbob couldn’t figure that out.

Just using regnalbob's listing of the various vehicles owned by the buyers I added up all the GM models and that comes to 399, well beyond the Strudebaker owners. So I have to believe GM is the correct answer to the orignal question.

I also run manifold vacuum. Edelbrock intake and carb on a 350.

my 79 runs pretty cool at idle with the hood closed. When I got it, the vacuum advance used manifold vacuum; when I "fixed" it by moving to ported vacuum it definitely ran hotter, and yes provided less advance at idle/steady state. I messed with adjusting the vacuum can (older MSD dizzy) but wasn't satisfied. So I've been using manifold vacuum ever since. Wondering what others use. AFB and then Holley 4150, Performer EPS, warmed over 350.

No… I wasn’t the doubter!

And you refuse to post any documents.

According to the results of the survey from MFG Co. Studebaker and not GM is the answer to your question. If you disagree you can post the page from the Morrison-Gottlieb survey that you have showing that GM is the answer to your question.

It’s good to see that you are now posting the entire document when you quote a source… as opposed to just posting a few lines, or simply one page as you’ve done in the past. I credit myself for this improvement in your communication skills… Be well!

Today I was finally able to get back to working on the brakes. This evening I bench bled the new master cylinder I mentioned in my May 19 post above. When I took it out of the box, I was pleasantly surprised that it's actually an aluminum master cylinder, and it does not have a hole pre-drilled and threaded for the brake light switch. That's just fine, because I removed the hydraulic brake light switch from the circuit and I'm installimg a dedicated mechanical switch at the brake pedal arm. I uncovered and aired out the car a few weeks ago. I was surprised how rusty the new cast iron master cylinder had become since last fall. The aluminum MC will probably stay looking nice for a longer time. Over the next few days I'll get the MC installed and start bleeding the system for the umpteenth time. When I get to the rear calipers, I'm going to remove at least one of the bolts and make sure the bleed valve is not pointing down as it is now with the bolts installed.

Thanks for your input Jim and Wildfelr. Wildfelr's solution is creative and well executed I must say- especially burying front Indicators in those big holes ! Jim, your solution is straightforward and commonsense, but since I'm a stickler for keeping original parts, I'd probably end up Fabbing a new piece. Nobody has any info on what's actually inside of these Buffers?

Well, I’m completely satisfied with Stacey’s answer… SUGGESTION….do a bit more research concerning your ‘survey’s’ findings, and get back to me as soon as possible!

No, unless you show the survey results you are wrong.

So, you think Stacey is wrong?

To prove GM is the correct answer.

Why would I do that? This trivia question has been answered correctly by Stacey… General Motors!