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Brad, man do I agree with you!

Dear Dwight, :-)… I’ve checked your measurements against mine… the wrong booster and the bracketry from SA and yes… your booster will fit. Pictures are okay… overall fine. With other words… you made my day! Please tell me what you have in mind. Regards, Paul

Never use 60 year old rubber unless you want to do it again in 6 months!!! Always use fresh new rubber .

I sold 3 at the Washington Pa. meet. I have 1 left in stock. The fiberglass fabricator still has my mold, said he can continue to layup, but has a minimum of 5 pieces per run. So, if interest continues, I will have more made.

Not sure why you would have to bench bleed at this point. Simply keep adding fluid and bleeding each wheel until all the air is out. Make sure your helper understands the pedal must stay down until after you tighten the bleeder. Look at the stream of fluid as it exits. If you see any interruption or hear air, there's your problem

Thanks guys. Michael have you sold any more? And thanks to A0136 for packing it back from the meet. Mike

GOOD MORNING MEL THESE BUSHINGS ARE NEW MFG AS ALL THE ORIGS HAVE LONG AGO DRIED UP AND GONE AWAY WILDFELR IS ME.... 50 YRS AGO.... BUT I AM STILL ON A LEASH NOW I NEED A STUDEBAKER MECH TO INSTALL THEM ....COFFEE TIME

Bill, Thanks so much for this! Do you know if these are NOS or new 'repops'? I'm guessing Wildfelr is your dog's name - I love it. You are right; attitude is everything. You have a good one, also!

GOOD MORNING MEL BILL GREGG IN FLORIDA WELL I JUST ORDERED AND RECEIVED THE BUSHINGS FOR RQB3263/81..... THESE ARE THE CORRECT BUSHINGS.... ONE DAY PRIORITY MAIL

Spoiler looks great!

Looks as though the front suspension bushings are letting go. From what I've read, the Delrin are metal, made for racing setups and not the way to go. From what I've heard from a local restoration guy, the polyurethane are almost as hard and squeak badly. It appears Moog makes rubber bushings of many sizes. Does anyone have all the Moog p/n's for the setup. Going into it, I'll replace all of them. Thanks for any assistance.

Nice car….. Nice photos!

Got the air dam mounted.

Hi, Paul, I have received a notice from my internet service provider that the email I sent you "has been delayed", whatever that means. So, I'll post it here. The booster weighs almost 10 pounds, so I'll figure 12 pounds, including the box & wrapping. Shipping to S.I., 630 South Noble Street • Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 comes to $20.70 by US Postal Service. I haven't checked UPS or FedEx, but they can't be much cheaper. Attached are pix of the booster. BTW, what is that fuel pump I see in your pix? --Dwight

Got lucky , it was just this hose leaking air. Disconnected, plugged the port, now stops on a dime again

Yesterday I took my '63 around the block and the brakes were alarmingly bad, all the effort I could muster would barely stop the car (it has a Turner front disc kit with a dual master added earlier this year). I assumed I needed a new booster, but now am not so sure. The pedal sinks as normal when starting the car and it feels like it's getting vacuum, but not enough. Was wondering if anyone knows where this hose leads, as I'm thinking it may be the source of a leak. Maybe the dash vacuum gauge? Everything in the engine compartment looks OK. Anyone ever had a booster that went out, but not completely? I was under the impression it was all or nothing.

Hi again, I have eyeballed your brackets relative to mine on the booster I have that still has its original bracketry. This one probably came off one of the '70 Avantis I parted out years ago. I can't see any difference between yours and mine. You also appear to have all of the bracketry needed. If you want a check valve this is the one I bought on ebay earlier this year for my nice '64 Avanti. --Dwight

Hi, Paul, My P.B. booster has the following measurements: On back (bolts to firewall bracket): 94mm CtoC horizontally, both top & bottom On back (bolts to firewall bracket): 89mm CtoC vertically, both sides So, the rear bolt pattern is a perfect rectangle, with 90 deg. corners. On front (attaches to M.C.): 82.5mm CtoC horizontally, both top & bottom On front (attaches to M.C.): 45mm CtoC vertically, both sides The front bolt pattern is also a perfect rectangle, with 90 deg corners. Hopefully, this isn't clear as mud. Let me know if it is. Also, you may need a new check valve. The one I bought is on ebay and is made for Studebaker's Bendix P.B. booster by Fusick. $28.50 + shpg. Regards, --Dwight

I hope to get my air dam installed today and post a photo. Mike

If protection of the radiator is all that's desired, just put a wire mesh on the actual radiator surface. But me personally to get down near the ground to see a grill is sorta senseless, (my opinion). An airfoil is a little different.. It can be seen standing up.

BTW… Only my opinion, but I feel ‘round light’ Stude Avantis look more ‘aggressive’ with the scoop area left open! (grille less) ‘Square light’ Stude Avantis look, to me, more normal if the factory grille is in place.

I agree. More about protection than look.

No grease fittings needed here.

The quick steering arms are only worthwhile on cars with the forklift steering box…somewhere in the 1977 time period. On cars prior to that the quick steering arms are not worth it. I put them on the ‘70 Avanti I had and the handling was not improved. My description was that the car’s steering became “darty”.