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My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it. I know this is a baffle that attaches somehow above the oil pump but not sure exactly how. I I assume it would attach to one of the closest main bearing bolt caps but none of my bolts have a provision to bolted in place there. Am I missing two special bolts that would have a threaded section that this baffle could be bolted to or is there some other way it should attach to the bottom of the engine block?

Intermittent suggests to me that it might be a bad connection in one of the system connectors or a switch adjustment that is on the edge of out of range. I'm not sure of the style of cruise that is on your model. My 82 wasn't working when I got it and the magnets had fallen off the driveshaft. Once replaced, I found the brake switch out of adjustment and once that was fixed, I had to adjust the speed screw in the small box until it set and held the right speed. On my 89, I found a bad fuse and a corroded connection on one of the plugs. Once I fixed those, then I had to adjust the speed screw on that one as well. So the first thing that I would do is disconnect, inspect and reconnect each electrical plug in the system to be sure the contacts are clean and working. I'm thinking your model has a speed sensor connected to the speedometer cable at the transmission. If so, you need to check the connection there. If it has that, then it doesn't have magnets on the drive shaft. The brake pedal activates a switch to kill the cruise when you press on it in addition to the brake light switch. You need to check and be sure it is working correctly with good electrical connections. Don't forget to check the control switch connections at the steering column also.

My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it. I found 2 crank bolts, 1 is significant heavier than the other so which is correct for my 289 R2 engine?,,,

@ronmanfredi Now that I have squeezed my way even further underneath I do see a 2-inch-ish hole where they could fall out (can see the ring gear too).

A bit odd those mounting bolts don’t slide right out…. And no, a press isn’t needed to change the starter bendix.

The cruise control on my 1987 Avanti works intermittently. Any idea as to the cause/how to repair it? Thanks, Bob

Robert Gordon Claremont, Ca 1987 Avanti II Convertible

Thanks Nelson. I didn't change anything except the internals of the Prestolite starter that the rebuild shop used. Everyone keeps saying the bolts, but I can't even remove the bolts that hold the starter on. So it's the exact same setup that's been used for 63 years. (The top bolt will spin, so I'll need to wrench both sides, but not for the bottom mounting bolt.) I can't locate any torque guide, so I just make sure they are nice and tight. Bob from Avantiparts.biz is sending me the starter drive to have a shop install, as I'm guessing that a hydraulic press will be needed?

Make sure you are using the correct started to engine bolts. The act as a dowel pin to assure the correct engage t of the ring gear to starter gears. Also, is there a possibility it has a 6 volt ring gear? They have a different tooth count and I would think do the kind of damage you have.

I was having trouble timing one of my Avantis the other day. It just wouldn’t run unless it was up around 50 degrees advanced at idle. I thought the outer ring had slipped on the balancer . I took a wooded paint stir stick and split it then put it partially into the number one cylinder and bumped the engine over with a remote push button switch. I was able to find top dead center and was able to verify the balancer was clocked correctly while on the combustion stroke. You might try this method, it’s straight forward. Just make sure your rotor is close to number one plug wire and you are on the compression stroke.

If the clock worked at all, I would buy a Lottery ticket!

My "64 R1, automatic, 16,000 miles. Fresh redo.

There are no other marks on the damper I have.

Thank you,,,

AVX Number 1, LT1 350 with Paxton SN92 supercharger

Boot = trunk Bonnet = hood

Thank you for your reply. Even without the silver paint, your G2 mark is much deeper and more defined than the marks on mine. Do you have a mark 180 degrees opposite of the mark you show, it may be very faint as mine are?,,,

I’d call Dave Thibeault… Be assured he will sell you the correct part… Tel# 978 897 3158

This is the damper from a 63 R2. The short silver sharpe mark lines up with the key way. It is best to check the accuracy of the marks. They can be checked with the positive stop method or with a dial indicator. I use the positive stop method before putting the heads on.

Thanks Guys. At least now I know what to look for. I have a feeling the clog is in the feed line and the tanks not an issue, Got some checking to do..

I think you call them trunks. Pb

That’s odd… on my ‘83 (RQB3655), the fuel outlet is bottom dead center of the fuel tank… exactly like earlier Avantis .., There is also a factory drain plug in the fuel line located approximately under center of passenger door.

The gasket around the throttle floor board penetration.

mfg, thanks. The brakes were fine. Even the old am radio came on with some distant country song. We live a ways from a town. The only thing that didn't work right was the clock.