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No problem, or you can email me at peterbacich@yahoo.com Ta pb

I' ll post some in a bit.

Jim, Do you have photos of the other used parts at all? Thx Peter

yes

What do you mean by "frame rails for a 64 R1"? Do you mean the frame rails that are about 15 feet long and weigh several hundred pounds? --Dwight

I have a set of frame rails for a 64 R1. Also a set of wire wheel hubcaps with centers and clips, also a lot of other used parts that came with the car when I bought it

I had a serious leak in the power steering system in my 64 Avanti R1. After rebuilding the pump, replacing all the hoses, it turned out to be the spooling valve. Sent it off to get rebuilt. No leaks now.

Like Ronmanfredi wrote. Check this might be missing or broken: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

Good question … I believe the knock sensor ‘alerts’ the onboard computer to retard the engine timing somewhat… Without a computer’s ‘help’, I don’t see how it could really work. (other than the light alerting you to take your foot off the gas a bit !)

Since a knock sensor should theoretically detect a ping before the driver could hear it, could a knock sensor be installed on the engine and wired to a red light on the dash in such a way to alert the driver?

Great info!

'63 R2. The left rear axle had stripped threads (how? I dunno) and the axle nut "secured" with red Locktite. Once around the block after I got it running, and the wheel nearly fell off. Thank goodness it was a literal block, because I was 1/2 way around when I knew something was way bad. I replaced the axle and then rebuilt the non-functional rear brakes... front brakes too. Oh, and it had about 3/4" of toe out.

Be careful upon reassembly. the shaft has a very sharp edge that can cut the new seal. I also look at the shaft to make sure it isn't grooves where the seal rides. I have had to install ready sleeves to repair them in the past. Also look at the reservoir to pump body gaskets. They are square shouldered "O" rings. Be sure the lid is vented properly, or it will leak again. Aftermarket repair kits sold by All the vendors use the wrong cover post stud gaskets.

R1 (570) heads will already have a tighter quench and squish than an R2 head, so there's that. In my experiences, dish pistons give better turbulence, and better combustion than flat top pistons.

I think it all depends on how you drive your Avanti…. If you feel your car has adequate performance now, I would leave it ‘as is’!

I agree with psdenno… and shaft seal not very hard to change once pump is off.

The difference in wheelbase lengths on the Lark is negligible (1/2”)… A driveshaft from any shorter wheelbase Lark with auto trans will work…(109–109 1/2” wheelbase) You will find a driveshaft from a Lark ‘6’ is smaller in diameter and ‘thinner’ walled, but it too will work in a pinch!

Start with the pulley shaft seal and then check the hose connections. Pulley shaft leaks are typical.

Enjoying this discussion. So to add to this line of thought. Could you use a 570 head, with the supercharger but swap the pistons out for 1/2 dish pistons. I tried doing some calculations and with a std steel head gasket, I estimate the compression ratio of about 9.5. Do you think that would work with 93 or 92 octane gasoline? My 64 R5335 is an R1 block, with Hawk heads (casting 535976), a supercharger, and full dish pistons. That's how I purchased it. I estimate the compression ratio of about 8.5. My compression checks indicate an average of 150 psi in the cylinders which I think confirms that lower ratio. I was toying with the idea next year to replace those heads with 570 heads, std steel head gasket, and swap the pistons to a 1/2 dish piston to raise the ratio and get some horsepower out of it. I'm using 92 Octane currently without any ping but not surprised.

I have an early R-1 (1289) and the power steering pump is beginning to leak. I am having trouble finding the source of the leak since the pump is right next to the radiator fan. The wind from the fan essentially sprays the leaking brake fluid all over the pump, battery and underside of the roof. Question: Where are the typical locations of leaking power steering pumps that I should look for? Thanks in advance!

Someone must know how tight the quench area in the combustion chamber must be for the quench area to do its job: reduce pinging. Wouldn't it defeat the purpose to increase that too much? --Dwight

If you're going to do a valve job anyways, a little porting in the combustion chamber to unshroud the valves will also lower the compression ratio. You can open that up, and use the composition gaskets, and get it back down to 9:1 without too much trouble. Plus, it will breathe better at lower valve openings.

Check the firewall gromet to see if it's still there or if you have any other issues in that area.

Canuck E Yes and no. The earlier Larks and later Larks have slightly different lengths. Later Larks (Crusier) had a longer wheelbase and longer driveshaft. Larks also used 2 different u-joint types (spicer and mechanics) so the drivelines can be the same length but not be the same. The 63 Avanti with automatic (powershift) uses a driveline that measures 46 9/32” center to center of the u-joint holes. The Avanti driveline used spicer u-joints. So some 62,63 and 64 Larks with automatic’s use a 46 9/32 length driveline. If one of those has the spicer u-joints it would fit. I don’t know if the tube size and thickness is the same or different. A driveline from a 3 speed OD car or longer wheelbase with spicer u-joints could be shortened and have the yoke changed. Steve