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Wow! Just checked for replacement Sumitomo cylinders. They are running over $250 each from parts geek. Over $1,000 for 4. Sleeving your existing cylinders or purchasing the Cobalt replacement seems to be a good idea.

I forgot about the rubber shim in the middle of the rear cross member just over the differential.

On an Avanti, the body to frame shims are steel. The only rubber ones are just over each muffler on either side of the X member. There should be 4 rubber shims. I am guessing that was to keep the floor pan away from the hot exhaust. I had the body on a rotisserie. I cleaned off the old undercoat and resprayed it with 3M rubberized undercoat.undercoating.

The Cobalt cylinders are of modern design and should work better than the original Dunlop design. Check 'em out. The website is: https://mossmotors.com/8777-4-jaguar-premium-front-brake-cylinder-piston-master-kit-2-1-8-mk-i-mk-ii

IF someone could contact Mr Gundry and get permission perhaps the book could be reprinted, or at least photocopied, and provided to Avanti owners. I have a copy but won't copy it without permission. --Dwight (R-4228, R-5407)

As I said in my previous post, the man is almost 90 years old and the link expired on September 30th of this year. Apparently his book is no longer available from him. I would like to humbly thank Stan for providing us all with his wonderful book for so many years. He deserves our appreciation.

I emailed him a few months ago (I live within 30 minutes of him) and have never heard back. The email wasn't bounced.

This is the front right (passenger) engine mount. Is the only grounding from the engine to the frame?

What year/model Jaguar those Cobalt calipers apply to? Thx. Steve

It is great to see the start of a restoration with fresh and newly painted parts ready for installation. I also have a question that I posted elsewhere but still don't have an answer for. Would you be able to tell me the height of the arc of rear leaf springs? That is, with the spring ends sitting on the ground, curve up, what is the distance from the center (connection point to frame) to the ground? I would like to replace the current "flat" springs on my 1984, and there is a spring manufacturer close enough that will build them to specs..all of which I have except for the uninstalled height of the leaf spring. I know that EatonDetroitSpring has them, but It would be double the cost of a local manufacturer after Canadian $ exchange and shipping.

I would love to have a copy of the wiring schematics. If available, please email to jkhowes@msn.com

Good fall afternoon. I'm trying to figure out a starter issue. My first thought is that the grounding isn't good enough, thus a full circuit is not there. The negative battery terminal goes to the engine (head?, driver's side), then on the other side there's a 10-14 awg wire from the engine block to the frame at the front, passenger engine mounting block. That to me doesn't seem to be beefy enough to handle the current that deals with the starter motor, but rather for all the accessories. I can not see the top of the starter motor to confirm that the cable from the starter solenoid has a tight connection. Is there a larger engine to chassis/frame wire for grounding? A braided one or something?

I have started a restoration on a 63 that has been passed down I originally pulled the body to weld in a new rear crossmember. One thing led to another and now in the process of a full restoration. Things i have done so far. Striped the frame down painted it. All new suspension bushing front and rear new hardware rebuilt rear end My plan is to run new break/fuel lines finish up the steering tuner disk breaks front and rear new exhaust. Looking for some advice on things to do before putting the body on. Also what should I use for rubber between the body and frame? Any advice is greatly appreciated thank you here are some photos of the progress

I had a problem(s) with the Quadrajet in my 74. Some of the people on a Camaro forum recommended Cliff's High Performance in Ohio. Cliff discovered that my original carb body was cracked and provided a completely rebuilt Quadrajet that fit and worked fine. I recommend him for Quadrajet parts and service. cliffshighperformance.com

Posted 7 minutes ago RQB3263/81/305 ..... FRONT SUSPENSION BUSHING REPLACEMENT PROJECT COMPLETE .... USED ONLY NEW MANUFACTURE PARTS FROM STUDEBAKER INTERNATIONAL IN ARIZONA....... BOTTOM LINE .... EXPENSIVE .... MECHANIC VERY METICULOUS AND FIXED A COUPLE OTHER THINGS ALSO BUT..... TOTAL COST PARTS AND LABOR ...$1600.00 !! AND ALIGNMENT NEXT WEEK ....!!.... ALL DONE ALL GOOD ... LIFE TIME GUARANTEE ... BEST WISHES ....BILL IN FLORIDA ....

RQB3263/81/305 ..... FRONT SUSPENSION BUSHING REPLACEMENT PROJECT COMPLETE .... USED ONLY NEW MANUFACTURE PARTS FROM STUDEBAKER INTERNATIONAL IN ARIZONA....... BOTTOM LINE .... EXPENSIVE .... MECHANIC VERY METICULOUS AND FIXED A COUPLE OTHER THINGS ALSO BUT..... TOTAL COST PARTS AND LABOR ...$1600.00 !! AND ALIGNMENT NEXT WEEK ....!!.... ALL DONE ALL GOOD ... LIFE TIME GUARANTEE ... BEST WISHES ....BILL IN FLORIDA ....

I adapted a used Quadrajet taken from a ‘78 Buick for my ‘83 Avanti everyday driver. I did this to eliminate the troublesome electronic factory Quadrajet which seemed to have a mind of its own! After rebuilding the Buick carb with a zip kit and new composite float, it dropped right onto the stock factory manifold with no major change to the throttle linkage. Biggest challenge was adapting the electric choke from the ‘83 carb to the ‘78 carb…. which wasn’t hard to do. Factory air filter assy dropped right on. The distributor also had to be changed from the stock electronically controlled advance type to the earlier Chevy vacuum advance type… again very easy to do. I made this change approximately 400,000 miles ago… and have never looked back!!

Hi Ted- I'd strongly suggest a total rebuild of your original by a well experienced technician. I'm looking for one too, because I'd like to eliminate the Computer controlled unit one day, but I dont want different Throttle Bellcranks to the original and I'm not having a lot of luck finding that. I may relent eventually and try a Chicom Copy...

I like the idea that a younger person with some mechanical talent but perhaps not a whole lot of $$$, can pick up a running but ‘worn’ Studebaker Avanti for $4,000–$8,000. Whereas a well worn 1962 Corvette, similar to the one which I purchased for next to nothing when I was a ‘kid’, now will bring $30,000 and up… Out of sight for many guys starting a new family.

I can see that from a Buyers point of view... and agree it's like a good thing. For me.. ALL Collectibles are still surging and it suits me that what I've bought (4 differing Sports cars) have escalated to 2X the value that I spent. So the Avanti's haven't surged to (say) the value of a Camaro or Stang, That's good since the entry level is still available. But to me, the Avanti's are on the rise.

OK , so mine too have the original automatic transmission , but i'm gone put a 4 speed T10 and i'm searching all information to do it right 😃

The Rochester Quadrajet carburetor is shot on my 1969 with the Chevy 350 engine that came from the factory when new. Where can I get a replacement with an automatic choke? I am looking for an authentic replacement.

Hello Dwight, all okay! I have informed Jime Lime of Studebaker International too. Thank you a thousand times for your help! / regards, Paul

Something which I’ve seen as a ‘positive’ over the years is that Studebaker/Avanti prices have never taken off ‘through the roof’ as prices of other collector cars have. (Corvettes, some Mopars & Fords) This fact has allowed me to buy and sell Studes at prices which I (and others) can afford…..Some may see Studebaker/Avanti financial values lower than comparable vehicles as a negative, however, I’ve always felt their more attractive pricing was a good thing! (IMHO)

Well, Mfg... I just don't have a choice. I need to watch where my pennies go. I'm also at the age where working on them much is out of the question,