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I’ve mentioned this before years ago using type F trans fluid.I noticed the dipstick would get very hot, especially on long trips. It was so hot that I needed a rag to insulated my fingers from the dipstick when pulling it out to check the level. I also went through drive sets too often. I changed over to Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid. I found that I could now check the oil without using a rag but just my bare hands. I would think this tells me the fluid is not being sheared at the bearing interface which would produce the heat. My bearing problem is gone. Maybe the B&M Trickshift does the same thing? Did you notice a reduction in blower temperature on trips or even around town?

Myer's Studebaker, Nostalgic Motors and Studebaker, Intl should all have what you need.

I think the B&M fluid is similar to Ford ‘Type F’ ……..in that it’s less ‘slippery’ than some other ATF’s.

Unpacking the bins that came with the jigsaw puzzle. Hoping to soon install the new engine - then the real fun will begin. No engine mounts. Internet search and forum search not helpful. Anybody got a part number? Thanks.

Good! After the discussion a year or so ago on fluids to use in blowers I concluded, for me, to use B&M Trick Shift, the blue non-synthetic ATF. It meets Type F ATF standards. --Dwight

After a certain serial number '63 Avantis switched from a 3-pole starter to a 4-pole one. What is your serial number? The 4-pole starter was added by Studebaker to address the higher starting power needed by the 10.24 CR of the R1 engine. I don't know whether parts will interchange between them or not. --Dwight

Those service letters are very informative, thank you again!

I guess the 4 pole bodies are easy to come by.

Thank you for that information. That service letter is very helpful. I guess mine came with the 3 as I am the original owner, car has 39k and starter was never replaced. I was fortunate to have one lying around even though it had a different nose. Had another and think I gave it to a scrap guy that came around last year.

I used to be right on top of these things… but I guess I’m slipping a little! No one needs the expensive of a Paxton rebuild if they can help it!

Others, more knowledgeable than I, will chime in on this, but my recollection is that 4 field starter is in fact, the correct starter for an Avanti.

About the oil color https://riautomotive.net/dark-brown-transmission-fluid-needs-to-be-changed-right-away/ Since you can't see the color on the dipstick, you either check by sucking a sample, by wiping the stick on a white cloth or change it regularly. In my experience, that 5000 miles could be a good limit - I think. The oil is used so little that this is not a cost issue. If you change the oil on time, I think you don't need to flush the entire oil chamber.

I've removed the coin collector on top (where the speaker originally went), as well as the front knobs and support nuts at the front. Does the support bracket for the top tray also need to be removed for better access? I can not see any side connections holding the radio in place. Is there a lower tray or some other mechanism holding it in place? Judging by the workshop manual description, I don't want to remove the dash to get to the back. I am willing to remove the front seats if necessary to get down on the floor and work from underneath. Any hints or pointers in the right direction would be appreciated. Yes the radio has failed (or faded to almost no sound) and the tape deck has eaten a tape. I will fix or replace as practical.

Have overhauled everything except the starter. When I open it up, one of the welded on brushes had rotted off. My starter is a MDU7025 12T. I had another prestolite that has the same body, but noticed when I opened it up, It has 4 field windings and the Avanti only has 3. Anybody have any ideas. Getting down to being able to fire it up soon.

Have overhauled everything except the starter. When I open it up, one of the welded on brushes had rotted off. My starter is a MDU7025 12T. I had another prestolite that has the same body, but noticed when I opened it up, It has 4 field windings and the Avanti only has 3. Anybody have any ideas. Getting down to being able to fire it up soon.

Yes Dwight, after I pumped out the bad stuff, I immediately refilled with new fluid, rotated blower, then pumped that out… then, I once again refilled with new fluid…After a week or two I’ll once again pump out both superchargers… then refill.

I also used the ‘F’ type fluid…. although the container specified it met the requirements of almost everything else!

There's a one-owner 2007 convertible available on Bring-A-Trailer with about 3o,000 miles. VIN 1ZVFT85HX75222117 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-avanti-convertible/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

Thanks for reminding to change the oil. 👍 I have a rebuilt Paxton and the seller said TYPE-F ONLY - nothing else. This has about 5000 miles and three years. The oil is not completely black and there are no visible particles in it. The color has darkened from red.

Thanks! It is the glue on type. I'll get the mini-mirror back on the windshield for the first time in over 50 years.

If it’s a glue on you can buy mirror glue at the parts store. Make sure your glass is clean for best adhesion. Mike

Of course you didn't get all of the black stuff out of your superchargers when you sucked the old fluid out. What you might do now to get essentially all of it out is to change the fluid again very soon. There has been some lively discussion on what fluid to use in superchargers within the last year or so on either this forum or the SDC Forum. --Dwight