mtgibby Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I pulled the propeller shaft out of the 'yet to be restored' pile o' parts and started to clean it up. Even though it had a label on it that said "Bentley's 63 Avanti" (Bentley was the PO), I think it has been modified or replaced at some point. My biggest concern is the length. The book says the prop shaft for an automatic before serial number 4882 should be 46 9/32", and this one measures 52 3/4" (shaft alone) and around 58" with joints. I would offer it up and check the length, but the engine and transmission are out and the body is at the boat shop getting some fiberglass work done. The shaft steps up to just under 3" between the joints. There is also a number stenciled on it that looks like (bar)7812620. The joints don't have the snap rings on all the cross and bearing units like the book shows. I don't know how to disassemble the bearing units that don't have snap rings. Would you trust it? Should I just get a new one made? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynolou2 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 That is a later model gm style u joint and yoke components. Those style of ujoint used injected plastic to retain the joint. To change the joints over to the inside snap ring style you have to heat the yoke area around the cap with a torch, when properly heated the plastic retaining compound will flow the small holes , then apply the appropiate amount of force to remove cap. Studebaker, Newman/Altman or Blake didn't use this retaining method. That only came about with the Kelly/Seaton models that used the gm chassis. Obviously not the drive shaft that came in a 63 or 64 Avanti. With the longer length could this have come from the Avanti LSC ? Lou Cote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynolou2 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 On closer examination those joints may have been replaced as the injected retainer joints didn't have grease fittings in them. If you clean the inner edge of the caps you will find a "C" shaped clip that retaines the caps in the yokes. Lou Cote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynolou2 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Also looking at the front joint and yoke you have two different styles of retaing the caps, the shaft end has the injected retainer, and the yoke uses the outside snapring -a real mishmash of parts. It looks like someone built this. Does this car have a gm transmission 200 4r or 700 r4 transplant? Lou Cote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 If you decide to replace the driveshaft, consider getting an aluminum unit. It does cost a bit more, but it reduces rotating mass, which gives a bit better performance and reduces weight overall in the car, which is a good thing as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtgibby Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Thanks for the responses guys! Lou, I am no expert on the transmission types. I understood the transmission was the original Studebaker unit rebuilt by Goodell Transmission in Columbus, OH. I wrote to Goodell and they said it was rebuilt to manufactures spec. I guess I will have to wait to see if it fits when everything is back together. I just can't figure out how a shaft that is 6 inches too long would work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64studeavanti Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 What are the raised letters/numbers? The Avanti transmission I have out right now has N3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Definitely a Studebaker Avanti Powershift unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lschuc Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Mike, It is a Borg Warner Powershift (cast iron case) and should be what was used in the Avanti. the driveshaft, like Lou said, looks like someone built up something to work. I would be wary about using it. The ends behind the U-joints don't look correct and look like someone added tubing to get the right length. There is a place near our shop where I had a couple of driveshafts made and they are very reasonable priced. Contact me offline or by my email next week when I get home and I can get you the correct numbers to get one made for you. They are close to your work too, just a little north of our shop. Lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtgibby Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Just to close the loop on this thread, I got a used prop shaft from Atlanta (eBay) and it is much shorter. I contacted the restoration shop that started the project in 2012, and they said the car came in with a Chevy powertrain (350?). This explains the significant number of GM parts I have found in the boxes The owner must have had the Studebaker engine in storage, because the block # is correct for the build sheet. Anyone need a nicely painted prop shaft that is 6 inches too long?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Measure u-joint center to center distance, that will give a prospective buyer the info they need. Before you sell it, be sure the new one fits. If it's from an original Avanti then you should be good to go. There are a lot of Camaro shafts out there that are close to the Avanti length but a bit shorter. Good luck, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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