Throttle Kicker

[Bob Preston]

New member, new owner. Recently purchased a 63 R2 automatic. Currently working on replacing most suspension components (bushings and shocks) rebuilding the power steering pump and hydraulic cylinder. 
 

After experiencing difficulties in starting the engine the ignition resistor was bypassed and it fired right up. My plan is to install the transistorized ignition, which I understand, bypasses/eliminates the resistor. I was unable to source a resistor. Thoughts on the above?

Second issue was high idle. Current solution was removing the throttle kicker and plugging the vacuum hose. Idles perfectly now. Currently unable to source a kicker. Any ideas? Is the kicker serviceable? The action seems very stiff, IMO too stiff for the vacuum to operate properly, if at all. 
 

On a side note, there was initially considerable smoke, particularly from the drivers side which has now almost completely cleared since removing the kicker. My brother in law commented that he thought the smoke was fuel related rather than oil/piston ring related. I’m sure I’ll have a few more questions. Thanks in advance. 
 

 

Edited Wednesday at 11:54 PM by Bob Preston
Adding info.

[Mel]

Pull the wire from the coil (the wire leading to the distributor) -- you don't want the engine running when doing this.

The post on the coil which has the wire attached which leads from the ignition switch should have two wires attached.  Put the ignition switch in the ON position and measure the voltage at this terminal.  You may read 7-9 volts.  If so, you probably have a resistor wire leading from the switch to the coil and would not need the ballast resistor.  If you have full voltage, you probably have regular (non resistor) wire in place and may have a bad resistor, which you apparently suspect.  (The wiring diagram shows an inline ballast resistor; my '66 has the resistor wire leading from the ignition and does not need the ballast.)

A separate wire from the starter solenoid passes full voltage to the coil when the switch is in the START position.  Have a helper hold the ignition switch in the START position; the voltage at this same terminal should now be 13 volts or so and revert to 7-9 volts when the key is released.

If you have full voltage in the ON position without the ballast resistor in the line but the car won't run with the resistor in line, you may have a weak coil.  If you don't know the condition of the ignition system, I'd probably replace ignition components, at least for now.  Coils of that era are not designed to operate at full voltage..

As I understand it, the electronic ignition requires full battery voltage continuously; hence, you'd have to put in a relay to pass full voltage IF, IF you don't have full battery voltage with the ignition in the ON position which, again, would indicate resistor wire from the ignition switch.

Welcome to the club.  Come back here often.  Lots of owners chiming in with tips, how to's, etc.

Good luck and keep us informed.

[Bob Preston]

Thanks. I’ll measure the voltages to confirm. The transistorized ignition I plan to install it the factory option #196. It is not a full electronic ignition. 
 

To my original questions. Does the installation of the transistorized ignition eliminate the ignition resistor? If not, where can I order one? 
 

Can the throttle kicker be reconditioned/rebuilt? If not, where can I order one? 

[regnalbob]

5 hours ago, Bob Preston said:

To my original questions. Does the installation of the transistorized ignition eliminate the ignition resistor? If not, where can I order one? 
Can the throttle kicker be reconditioned/rebuilt? If not, where can I order one? 

It uses a special resistor, not the stock resistor. Also requires a new bracket for the resistor.

The condenser is removed from the distributor.

The stock coil is replaced with a Transigniter coil.

The tachometer sending unit needs to be replaced.

 

Did you try adjusting the plunger on the throttle kicker?

 

[mfg]

Dave Thibeault is the ‘go to’ guy for a new throttle kicker…. They are not rebuildable .

[mfg]

Dave’s Tel#.  978 897 3158

[Bob Preston]

Dave’s voicemail box is full. 
 

I’ll try the kicker adjustment suggestion when the car is back on the ground. I’m fortunate to have a friend/neighbor/car enthusiast who has a nice shop setup in his pole barn and has a retired mechanic who works a few hours a day at a reasonable rate to do most of the work. We were under it yesterday and found a few more parts that are in need of replacing. 
 

For lack of a better description, the plunger on the kicker feels sticky, crusty and requires quite a bit of effort to push in. Maybe that’s normal and a small adjustment will resolve the issue?

Another peculiarity we discovered is a second fuel line running alongside the fuel line shown in the parts diagram, with the drain plug on the driver’s side, that goes from the fuel pump back to the fuel tank. I didn’t see a tread that covered the subject, so I’m adding it to this one. Should I start a separate thread for that or are a fuel line and a throttle kicker close enough relatives for the same thread?

[64StudebakerAvanti]

the smaller line that goes to the tank is the fuel return line. it helps cool the fuel, and, at least in theory, helps with vapor lock.

[64StudebakerAvanti]

your high idle could be caused by a throttle kicker with a vacuum leak. replacing it should help. the way the stock kicker works is that high vacuum in the engine pulls the plunger back. as vacuum drops, like when the engine is about to stall, the plunger goes back out to increase engine rpm.

[Bob Preston]

Thanks. That’s the conclusion we reached, however I haven’t seen that part on a diagram in the parts catalog. 
I’ll look to see if it’s addressed in the shop manual  

Our diesel motorhome also returns unused fuel to the tank. In this situation the returning fuel is warmer than the fuel in the tank. Over time and as the fuel level in the tank decreases the fuel temperature can increase to a point where performance can be negatively impacted. We’ve made a practice of filling the tank after we’ve used about half the fuel, or about 60 gallons, particularly on hot days.

Just need to find a new kicker. 

Edited 1 hour ago by Bob Preston

[64StudebakerAvanti]

look on page 40 of the parts book. part numbers 1558666 and 1558315. the diagram does not show this explicitly.