Throttle Kicker

[Bob Preston]

New member, new owner. Recently purchased a 63 R2 automatic. Currently working on replacing most suspension components (bushings and shocks) rebuilding the power steering pump and hydraulic cylinder. 
 

After experiencing difficulties in starting the engine the ignition resistor was bypassed and it fired right up. My plan is to install the transistorized ignition, which I understand, bypasses/eliminates the resistor. I was unable to source a resistor. Thoughts on the above?

Second issue was high idle. Current solution was removing the throttle kicker and plugging the vacuum hose. Idles perfectly now. Currently unable to source a kicker. Any ideas? Is the kicker serviceable? The action seems very stiff, IMO too stiff for the vacuum to operate properly, if at all. 
 

On a side note, there was initially considerable smoke, particularly from the drivers side which has now almost completely cleared since removing the kicker. My brother in law commented that he thought the smoke was fuel related rather than oil/piston ring related. I’m sure I’ll have a few more questions. Thanks in advance. 
 

 

Edited 9 hours ago by Bob Preston
Adding info.

[Mel]

Pull the wire from the coil (the wire leading to the distributor) -- you don't want the engine running when doing this.

The post on the coil which has the wire attached which leads from the ignition switch should have two wires attached.  Put the ignition switch in the ON position and measure the voltage at this terminal.  You may read 7-9 volts.  If so, you probably have a resistor wire leading from the switch to the coil and would not need the ballast resistor.  If you have full voltage, you probably have regular (non resistor) wire in place and may have a bad resistor, which you apparently suspect.  (The wiring diagram shows an inline ballast resistor; my '66 has the resistor wire leading from the ignition and does not need the ballast.)

A separate wire from the starter solenoid passes full voltage to the coil when the switch is in the START position.  Have a helper hold the ignition switch in the START position; the voltage at this same terminal should now be 13 volts or so and revert to 7-9 volts when the key is released.

If you have full voltage in the ON position without the ballast resistor in the line but the car won't run with the resistor in line, you may have a weak coil.  If you don't know the condition of the ignition system, I'd probably replace ignition components, at least for now.  Coils of that era are not designed to operate at full voltage..

As I understand it, the electronic ignition requires full battery voltage continuously; hence, you'd have to put in a relay to pass full voltage IF, IF you don't have full battery voltage with the ignition in the ON position which, again, would indicate resistor wire from the ignition switch.

Welcome to the club.  Come back here often.  Lots of owners chiming in with tips, how to's, etc.

Good luck and keep us informed.