Dead electrical system

[RQB Fan]

I just got through installing new wood veneer console and dash panels in RQB-2698. Got all the gauges back in and everything looks nice. BUT - no electrical - no lights, nothing. Battery is charged. I did label all the wiring to the gauges and put them back the way they came out. Fuses all look fine. Did I mess up something?

Would appreciate some help.

[Jim78]

I just got through installing new wood veneer console and dash panels in RQB-2698. Got all the gauges back in and everything looks nice. BUT - no electrical - no lights, nothing. Battery is charged. I did label all the wiring to the gauges and put them back the way they came out. Fuses all look fine. Did I mess up something?

Would appreciate some help.

Did you disconnect the battery during the work on your dash? Are the battery connections clean and tight? Do you have 12V at the fuse panel?

[Mel]

I guess your battery could have suddenly developed an open cell but that does seem doubtful. I'd first take a meter to be sure you've got a good battery. If that's the case with the meter probes on the battery posts, you may have a bad connection on the battery post. If I were you, I'd start at the battery with a meter and work forward.

For instance: If you have a good battery and battery post connections, I'd disconnect the positive cable on the battery and remove the ignition switch, but not the wires leading to it, from the back of the panel. (This is to make sure you don't short the battery terminal on the switch to the metal bar behind the switch.) Then, making sure the terminals of the switch aren't against anything, reconnect the battery. Then take a meter and be sure you have power coming to the switch terminal labelled 'Bat'. You can turn your switch to the various positions to see if you have power there. You can use your meter to see if you have power to the fuse block, etc. You should have power to the fuse block for the lights circuit even with the switch in the off position.

My guess is it's something simple. Good luck.

[Jim78]

I guess your battery could have suddenly developed an open cell but that does seem doubtful. I'd first take a meter to be sure you've got a good battery. If that's the case with the meter probes on the battery posts, you may have a bad connection on the battery post. If I were you, I'd start at the battery with a meter and work forward.

For instance: If you have a good battery and battery post connections, I'd disconnect the positive cable on the battery and remove the ignition switch, but not the wires leading to it, from the back of the panel. (This is to make sure you don't short the battery terminal on the switch to the metal bar behind the switch.) Then, making sure the terminals of the switch aren't against anything, reconnect the battery. Then take a meter and be sure you have power coming to the switch terminal labelled 'Bat'. You can turn your switch to the various positions to see if you have power there. You can use your meter to see if you have power to the fuse block, etc. You should have power to the fuse block for the lights circuit even with the switch in the off position.

My guess is it's something simple. Good luck.

The Avanti in question is a '78, so the ignition switch is in the steering column, not the dash. It can't be simply removed like the older style. But, the rest of the advice is sound. Get a volt meter and, starting from the battery, determine where voltage is or is not present. Let us know what you find.

[IndyJimW]

On my '87 Avanti all current goes thru the amp gauge before going to the ignition switch or the fuse block. Make sure you have power on both sides of the amp gauge.

Good luck,

Jim Wood

[RQB Fan]

Thanks, guys - I checked my instrument wiring again and it looks like I didn't connect the red wire to the ammeter properly. Now I have electrical. BUT I keep blowing a fuse in the power window/instrument circuit. I have a white ground wire connecting the temperature gauge to the ammeter. Maybe something's still not right?

[adamderosa]

Hmmm I don't think you should have a white wire connecting the temp gauge to the Ammeter. The wiring diagram shows for the ammeter just a Red wire on the - terminal and a Black wire on the +. For the temp gauge there shoulbe be three wires, a white one, an orange one, and a grey one with a black stripe.

[RQB Fan]

Thanks for the info. I rewired the ammeter like you suggested and am still blowing the fuse. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for Avanti II instrument? (Stewart Warner)

[Gunslinger]

Here's a link to schematics for Avanti II's on Bob Johnstone's website. Hope this tells what you need to know.

schematics

[RQB Fan]

Thanks for the schematic. It helped. Turns out one of the little insulating washers was missing from the temperature gauge. Everything works fine now. Instrument lights are still dim, though. I seem to remember an article in the AOAI magazine about the lights. More research...........

Marc