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Everything posted by Jim78

  1. 3.0714285 😄 is 43(ring teeth) divided by 14 (pinion teeth).
  2. Note the stack of spacer washers on the body mount in the right of the picture. This "factory" solution to raising the body looks like something from a back alley garage.
  3. When my old A6 compressor bit the dust, I changed over to the Pro6TEN. Bolts right up,works great, and is about 20 pounds lighter.
  4. Seems to be the logical place for it.
  5. Just a guess here... Possibly someone replaced the dimming resistor for the dash lights with a rheostat. This would affect the brightness when the overhead switch is in the first position.
  6. If you go to Bob Johnstone's site you can see the wiring diagram 5b for your interior lights. Simply add a switch in parallel with the door switches going from the red/wht wire to ground. Very simply, you are creating another "door switch". However, this will also serve to activate your ignition key warning buzzer if the key is in the ignition. Find the annoying buzzer and pull it from its socket. Nobody likes that noise anyhow! https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Diagrams/AEC/aec.html
  7. I used an electrical contact cleaner (aerosol can) and a fine wire brass brush. If you disassemble the switch, know that the wiper is spring loaded, so open it carefully and note the order that the parts (wiper, washer, spring) go in.
  8. By design, these controls reduce voltage to the motor to control the fan speed. The quick and dirty way to do this is by adding variable resistance to the circuit. The down side to this method is that the variable resistor turns the excess power into heat. That is why these controls are typically located in the air stream. Mine had the additional problem of corrosion that caused poor contact between the wiper and the resistance coil that caused erratic speed control and even more heat. Replacement switches are available, but a bit expensive. I was able to carefully disassemble mine and clean and adjust it. Works as good as new.
  9. The rotary fan control has an "OFF" position when it is fully counterclockwise. It is possible that the switch is broken. Another possibility is that the PO mixed up the wiring at the back of the fan and temperature controls. That's easy enough to check by removing the four screws that hold the vertical panel and tipping it forward. You may need to loosen the screws on the horizontal panel a little to get the bottom tab of the vertical panel loose. A picture of the correct wiring is attached. But, before you get into removing the panel... This may be a dumb question, but are you sure that it is the A/C fan that you are hearing? There is another blower motor in the heater that is controlled by the 2-speed switch in the overhead console. You might want to check that first.
  10. I had the same issue with the belts on my '78. I took them to a local auto upholstery shop and they shortened them for a small charge. Alternately, if you google "auto seat belts" you will find numerous vendors who can supply the belt buckle in various anchor lengths. You may want to consider going to the semi-rigid type which eliminates a lot of fumbling to hook up.
  11. Rule #1 of discussing Avanti IIs: Never say "never" and never say "all". Some models came without glass covers.
  12. Just for fun, take a piece of wire and and ground it to the chassis. While listening to the radio, touch the ground wire to the housing of the antenna and see if there is an improvement in the volume of the sound.
  13. That type of fuse was used on the lighter sockets to prevent meltdown or fire if the element didn't pop when it reached the proper temperature. If you're not using the socket with the heating element, that special fuse really isn't needed. On my '78, I found that circuit was protected by a 20A fuse in the box. Since I will not be using the socket for a cigarette lighter, I reduced that to a 10A fuse for powering my plug-in Bluetooth converter/cell phone charger. Since you have an early RQA, I would think that your wiring would be the same as the Studebaker. IIRC, the black 14 ga. wire from the lighter socket is tied into the circuit for the dome/courtesy lamp circuit. If so, that circuit has a fuse in the panel. You can verify that by pulling fuses out at the panel. When you find the one that turns off the courtesy and dome lights, verify that it also turns off power to the lighter socket. The downside of using the lighter socket for powering phone/electronics is that it (like the courtesy lights) is powered all the time, regardless of the ignition key. So, if you forget to remove a device when you park, it can run the battery down. I intend to run a new wire from the lighter socket back to a fuse that is only powered in the ACC key position.
  14. Well said. Run, don't walk. These repairs would put you deeply under water on any Avanti II.
  15. Dwight's comments say a lot about the Avanti market, particularly #2. A very experienced Avanti owner/trader often said "There is noting as expensive as a cheap Avanti". This is VERY accurate. My advice to someone buying an Avanti (or any classic car) in today's market is to buy the best original or restored car that you can afford. Don't buy a "fixer-upper" as you will most certainly end up upside down in it. Today's costs for restoration including parts, chrome, and paint are incredibly high, not to mention the cost of labor if you can't do the work yourself. Then there is the delay in being able to enjoy the car while it's in the shop. Find a nice car that doesn't need major work, or one that someone else has restored (and is going to take the loss on).
  16. By virtue of its design, the control valve has inherent "slop". Movement of the spool within the housing is how it controls the fluid flow. If the engine isn't running, there is a lot of movement. Some mechanics mistake this for a bad valve. If you're checking for lost motion in the steering linkage, be sure to do it with the engine running. Expect some motion of the spool as it operates. I had a problem with excess motion in the steering of my '78. I discovered that the steering box was actually moving on the frame. The mounting arrangement is not the best design, but tightening the bolts that hold the box to the frame took care of that problem. I think that we have become so accustomed to rack and pinion steering in our daily drivers that the old '50s design of the Avanti multi-link steering, at its factory best, seems sloppy. Add to that any wear in the king pins, or the multiple rod ends, and it gets "loose". Another issue not yet mentioned is the control arm bushings. Worn/cracked bushing can allow the control arms to move horizontally, which will also contribute to the problem. Be sure to check these, too.
  17. A friend of mine has a copy of an autographed Tom Kellogg print for sale. He's a classic car collector, but not into Avantis, so he would like to pass it along to someone who is. Artist J. Kent Stansbury did this art work in 1999. It appeared on the back cover of Avanti Magazine Spring/Summer 2001 Issue #114 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Avanti and Tom Kellogg's team creation with Raymond Loewy. A limited series of 200 11x17 inch prints were signed and numbers by both the artist and by Tom Kellogg, and were available at the June 2001 national meet in Villa Rica, Georgia. This print is #65/200. If you are interested and would like to make an offer, contact Jeff at kd6wva@aol.com
  18. In '78, the rear axle/suspension was still the Studebaker configuration. The Twin Traction was not standard. The steering column is the AMC tilt type with the ignition switch in the column.
  19. I haven't replaced mine yet. But, I have seen positive comments about Duque Hoodliner who offers a hood insulator for the Avanti at $115. Their web site has information on the recommended procedures for installation. Removal of the hood is a must, but that's not difficult. https://www.hoodliners.net/s/shop
  20. I don't see the need for a DPDT switch. If one wire (B+) is hot in either position, there is no need to run it through a switch. The other wire (ACC) will be hot in one position, and not the other. So, the simple SPST shown in my sketch should accomplish that. Simple enough to try a bench check before crawling under the dash. Just to clarify. With the wiring as shown in the sketch, the antenna will extend when the ignition switch is on, or is in the ACC position. It will retract when the ignition switch is turned off. You won't need to use the switch at all, unless you want to retract the antenna while the ignition is on. If you want to have only manual control of the antenna, the DPDT would accomplish that, and you could use a single B+ source to feed both poles. Of course, that wouldn't automatically retract the antenna when you parked the car.
  21. The more I think about this, the more I think that we're over-thinking it. If you were to abandon your existing switch, and replace it with a simple SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch, the wiring should be simple. The switch must be of the maintained position type, not spring return. Check to see if there is a wire that is always hot that went to the old switch. If so, run this power back through one of the existing wires and connect it to the red wire on the antenna. If there isn't an "always hot" wire on your old switch, find a fused source on your fuse block for this B+ power (the "always hot" is necessary to retract the antenna after the key is turned off) Find a lug on the fuse panel that is hot in the ACC position only. Run that power through the SPST switch, and back to the white wire of the antenna. Solidly ground the case of the motor. You could tap in to one of the existing ground wires that go to the shell of the light sockets. Or, you could use one of the existing wires back to the dash and ground it there. With this configuration, and the SPST switch in the ON position, the antenna should extend any time the key is in ON or ACC position. If for some reason you want to retract the antenna while the car is running (e.g. car wash) simply flip the switch to the OFF position.
  22. Check out Bob Johnstone's site. It has a LOT of valuable information. There are two electrical diagrams for the power antenna (10C and 10D). I'm guessing that you have a "three wire" switch paired with a "two wire" antenna. You'll probably need to replace one or the other. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Diagrams/AEC/aec.html Just as a side note, my '78 has NO antenna, as such. They actually used the rear window moulding as the radio antenna. It is a continuous loop, insulated in the rubber that holds the glass. Not the best of antennas, but it works, and there is no external antenna to worry about ups and downs. I had added a Sirius XM adapter some years ago, and recently dropped that service and added a Bluetooth adapter to my radio. Now I listen to tunes from my phone. No antenna needed. Also, remember that Google is our friend. There are several links that would be helpful. This one is very straightforward: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGQOPOGmieQ
  23. Before opening it up, consider the possibility that the new antenna may use case ground as part of the circuit. Ground the motor to your battery "-", and try applying "+" to each of the wires, in turn. If this works, you will need to connect a ground wire to the motor as the body will not supply a ground path.
  24. 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape would hold the reservoir in place without the nut(s).
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