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Posts posted by SBCA96

  1. I hope that both of you will SHARE what you have done with the rest of us

    when you get further along, or possibly document the process as you go

    to help others avoid mistakes along the way. This forum really should be

    used more then it is, that Yahoo group should be closed and its members

    moved over here. This IS the club forum.


  2. The same basic rules apply to Studebakers as any other brand, I would first

    find out WHY its burning oil. Usually there are two main causes of oil burning

    one is valve seals (can be done on the car) and two is rings (rebuild time).

    You can help to figure out which by paying attention to WHEN you see smoke

    out the tail pipes. If you see smoke whenever you accelerate, and during

    idle, and you have low compression 125 psi or less, then its probably rings.

    If you see smoke when you have left the car sit after driving it, & when you

    fire it back up (say sitting for 30 mins to 2 hours), and notice smoke out the

    tail pipes when you let off on the gas and reapply on the freeway, then it is

    valve seals. These are NOT definate, but are simple rules of thumb. The oil

    leak you notice from the rear seal COULD be coming from above at the oil

    pressure rubber line, or could be from an oil pan that has loosened over the

    years. Sometimes retorqueing the pan bolts according to the shop manual

    will solve (or seriously reduce) an oil leak. Studebakers are going to leak

    pretty much regardless, so if you can fix it without pulling everything apart

    thats a better plan. Also make sure that the oil is not leaking from the FRONT

    seal and running back down the engine to leak off the rear of the pan.

    I wouldnt go rebuilding it until you know whats wrong, is the oil pressure

    good? How does it run other then fouling plugs?


  3. You mean the amazing turbo Buick Regal Grand National V6? I think that the

    "wow" factor is pretty high with seeing one of those under the hood, and they

    certainly make a lot of power, but the cost vs the final result makes the swap

    not worth the investment. For the money, an LS1 making 335-350 hp could

    be put in. The aluminum block and heads will make up for the lack of a turbo,

    and drop the front end weight of the Avanti. I wouldnt waste the time to put a

    run of the mill non-turbo 3.8 V6 in. If you really wanted pucker-factor fun, an

    LS2, LS6 or LS7 (500 hp?) could be used. All of the LSx family would be easier

    to install then the MOD 4.6 Ford. Considering the performance of the CTS-V,

    the GTO, the Camaro/Firebird and the new Corvette, it would make for some

    tire smokin rear axle blowin fun! B)


  4. Are you asking a question? There are better engines out there that will fit a lot

    easier. The LS1 or LS2 comes to mind. Even an LT1 would be a better choice.

    The Ford 4.6 was a dog in the mid 90's, and didnt "wake up" until the early 00's.

    Its a large engine, quite massive, and has a weak lower end, & up til a redesign

    to the heads in the early 00's, was prone to spark plugs flying out of the heads.

    Unless you plan on spending premium money for a Cobra engine, I would stick

    to the better GM engines that are an easy bolt in. Or in the Studebaker Avanti,

    keep the Studebaker engine.


  5. Finally a new post!!! There ARE others out there! Sometimes I feel like I am

    all alone on this forum, searching for signs of life.....

    Sounds like you have a plan, thats good. I dont know whats available, but it

    seems like your options would be quite vast compared to the Studebaker

    chassised Avantis. I agree, why rebuild it when you can so easily upgrade!!

    You know ... the Monza inspired axle in my 1993 Camaro Z28 is a limited slip

    and with 230,000 miles - still works! Thats quite impressive when you consider

    that the fluid has been changed ONCE in those miles (at 39,000), and its got

    the high torque of that LT1 infront of it, my lead foot, & the overall agreement

    that the 4th gen Camaro axles are junk.


  6. Dave "Avanti Kid" Bloomberg sent me some pictures of his Bonneville

    Avanti hauler and a few shots from Speedweek which I thought I would

    share. I love the 4 Avantis together.

    Here is the workhorse to get the Avanti to Bonneville :


    Here is the salt rocket inside the trailer :


    The four Avantis and Dave's email text edited for clarity :

    No problem showing the four Avantis on the Studebaker WEB site. This is the first time that 4 Avantis actually raced at Bonneville. They were from left to right : Dan Wathen's Avanti II (Ford engine), Jim Davis' Avanti II (Chevy engine), Jim Lange's Avanti (Studebaker engine), and my Avanti (Studebaker engine). At the meet Lew Schucart from Avanti Owners magazine took some great pictures of the four Avantis together and will do a future article on them. - Dave


    Picture of Jim Davis' Avanti II with the 408 CI Chevy engine :



  7. Chuck,

    Any idea how much a set will cost? Also, can they be made to resist wheel hop?

    I have read that the fiberglass springs already resist it, but can more be done? I

    am interested, though how will they determine ride height? How to adjust?

    Does David Livesay have that info? He seems to have all that stuff.


  8. Looks very nice, clean installation. I personally love the single serpentine belt

    over the multiple belts. The downside is if it breaks, you lose everything. That

    is the NICE thing about the LT1 engine, the water pump is driven off a gear out

    the timing cover, so if you break the serpentine belt, you only lose powersteering

    alt and your A/C - but you can still get where your going - as long as the battery

    holds out!


  9. That Avanti I listed info for, is a chrome bumpered Avanti. So it would look just

    like a Studebaker one, and N&A had the company until 1983 when the plastic

    bumpers came onto the scene. See below :

    1965 – 1982 Avanti Motor Corporation – Avanti II

    1965 Avanti Motors press release issued Monday August 2, '65

    1965 45 new Avanti II's are produced as 66 models

    1968 100 cars built for Avanti II's third model year

    1973 10th anniversary generates national publicity

    1976 Nate Altman dies leaving his brother Arnold in charge of the company

    1982 Stephen Blake purchases Avanti Motors on October 1, '82

    1982 – 1985 Avanti Motor Corporation – Stephen Blake

    1983 Contoured, body-colored bumpers replace chrome ones

    1983 Limited Edition 20th Anniversary car introduced

    1984 Limited Edition Touring Coupe introduced

    1984 First prototype convertibles produced

    1985 Blake files bankruptcy in October

    Not sure of a listing of VINs, I would guess you have to contact Avanti Motors in

    Mexico and find out.


  10. Chuck,

    Are these the fiberglass spings? I have been considering new springs, currently

    my Avanti has a set of Lark station wagon springs. To use them I need some

    2 inch lowering blocks made!! I contacted eaton springs, and they can make

    any height/rate you want, but I couldnt get a reference dimension to know what

    spring I wanted to get - stock? 1 inch drop? 2 inch drop? :unsure:



  11. My tach started freaking out recently too, I suspect a ground problem. You

    might check to make sure that it has a good ground. Its also possible that

    our tachs are just getting to their replacement time. The faces on both my

    speedo and the tach are showing age, I think I will eventually get new S&W

    gauges to replace them. Unfortunately, when I did that on my Hawk, the

    gauge housing was a slightly smaller diameter on the new S&W gauge from

    the old S&W gauge. It still fit "ok" but wasnt tight in the dash hole.


  12. Modifications : I decided to go through with the tapping of the plug

    hole and creation of a filler screw, I started with a brass 5/16 pan

    head screw 1/2 inch long :


    Turns out the pin is .250 diameter and the minor diameter of a 5/16

    tap is .257, since its aluminum - you dont have to enlarge it. I ran

    the tap down approx. .250 inch :


    Here is the screw, turned the head down to .380 diameter, removed all

    but the first .250 of thread, shortened to leave some pin movement :


    Cleaned up the seat with the dremel and a file :



    Comparison between new theaded plug and original soft plug :


    Comparison to the stumpy plug supplied with the S.I. kit :


    Proper installation of the stem seal :




    I could just be like a Chiltons manual, and say "installation is the

    reverse of removal" - but how often is that REALLY true?? ;)

    Here is the correct way the valve goes together. I had to look at my

    OWN picture above to make sure I had done it right! :blink:


    The mushroom shaped deal gets pounded in until its flush with the top

    of the hole (or bottom), you CAN go too far - so dont!


    I used Loctite in the hole, just a little bit. You dont need much :



    Wipe off the excess :


    Hammer it in. I used a wood block, that way I didnt harm my table, or

    have to remove the fittings I just redid :


    Make sure you put this gasket on correctly. If you do it right, you

    can blow through the assembly, if you put it on 180 degrees, then you

    will "seal" the input, and no gas will get through. Thats bad.



    I used a VERY light film of permatex on both sides of the gasket, I am

    paraniod about fuel leaks. After looking at the way the diaphram goes

    together, I realized that I COULDNT use permatex there. If you cant

    use it both spots, its pointless to use it at all. If I had to do it

    over, I wouldnt have used the permatex on the fuel bowl :





    Then tighten the screws, I read that one thing to do to insure that it

    doesnt leak after, you take the parts and use sandpaper or emery paper

    and place it on a glass surface, then run the part back & forth until

    you get a smooth uniform shiny part. I didnt want to do that since it

    has a nice rough texture to the sealing surface, which seemed like it

    would seal better then a smooth surface. Food for thought.


    You can see what oozed out - even though I used a little bit!


    Here is the stem seal installed on the old higher pressure spring :



    Fits into the housing :


    This picture is deceiving, I first thought it would go together better

    if I did it this way, but the instructions say to put the arm on first.

    They are right, if you push the top of the shaft through the housing

    and then stick the "fork" end under the "head" of the shaft, it will

    hold it all together while you put the screws in. Nice.


    "Head" on the shaft :


    "Fork" under the head :


    Pin into the hole, through the arm :


    This is what concerned me about the "short" push plug. Though I didnt

    measure it, it LOOKED like the short plug might allow the pin to move

    over far enough to leave one side of the arm with no support and riding

    in that necked down area in the center of the pin. Thats why I liked

    the old longer nose pin better, and made my screw to match it :


    Arm installed, pin in, screw set, holding diaphram :


    Putting the screws in .. do NOT tighten them as you install them! Just

    leave them loose for now.


    Here is the FUN part. Page 5 in the "Avanti Workshop Manual" in the

    Studebaker shop manual, clearly states on step 7 :

    Align the indentification file marks and install the

    valve body-to-pump body attaching screws loosely.

    Hold the cam lever in its maximum stroke position,

    then tighten the attaching screws securely.

    Oh Yah right! I need at LEAST two more hands to do that. I tried a

    few different things, and none worked. My vice doesnt open wide enough

    and tightening the assembly in an 8 inch C-clamp didnt work either. It

    would pop right out. I figured out that if I marked the arm, and did

    a few adjustments for fit, I could push the pump INTO the C-clamp with

    the result being the arm at full stroke. Takes a few trys, I was able

    to tighten the screws pretty well, then it popped out, I finished it

    out of the clamp, but I think it was tight enough it didnt move back :


    Time to put that spring back on the arm. I put the end into the arm

    first, and pryed it onto the bump in the housing :



    All done .. ready to go back on the car :



  13. Once the pin is out, the arm comes off :


    Down inside the housing :


    Remove the screws from the bottom :


    Crack it open :



    Was happy to find the diaphram cracked (needs replacement) :



    Assembly slides out :


    Apart :


    New diaphram to old diaphram :



    New spring / old spring :


    Looks like the distance from the surface of the plug hole, to the pin

    is about .350. Thats plenty to tap for a screw. Then I can remove

    some of the threads from the screw to clear past where I dont tap, &

    make it as long as the original plug tip was.


    Inside the upper housing :


    Decided I wanted the higher fuel pressure of the original spring :




    Disassembled :


    Old spring / new spring :


    Remove fuel bowl screws :


    Crack it apart :



    Cut off the end of a nail, the head side might work easier :


    Clamp in your vice grips :


    Center over the valves :


    Gently tap them out - doesnt take much :


    Old valve assembly :





  14. Thanks Lew! It is sure getting attention, and also from the younger crowd. I am getting

    it over to In & Out Burger as much as possible (didnt make it this time because of the

    fuel pump issue). The "kids" showing up from the local high school had some nice things

    to say about it. I was chatting to one kid that wasnt there last week, and one kid who was

    there came up and asked, "where is the Studebaker??" The kid I was talking to said," A

    Studebaker?? Hahahaha!" Then the other kid jumped right in and said, "No!! This was

    REALLY cool!!" Not much else makes you smile. The kid defending my Avanti drives a

    new Mustang GT, the other kid said. "Oh, I know what they look like". Kinda a funny

    thing to say, since Studebaker made quite a LOT of cars! I bet he was thinking Fozzie

    the Bears car. Will try to get it there next friday. Also last time I drove it, I heard some

    "expert" tell his wife, "Thats the car that you couldnt tell which way it was going!". Yah,

    ok pal .. if you cant tell which way an Avanti is going - stay off the road! :rolleyes:;)

    So, Lew .. which issue am I gonna get "cover"? hehe :lol::P


  15. I am confused by your questions :

    1 . I believe that Studebaker pretty much used Bendix parts, but you will not be

    able to find them at your local parts house. The offset is different then anything

    that would be close. They are available from some Studebaker vendors. I have

    a complete rear assembly (minus the hubs) for an Avanti (from switching to the

    rear disc setup I made). The drums are within spec, one has a couple turns on

    it left, the other might squeeze one more out.

    2. I am not sure what "nut" you mean on the brake line to backing plate. The

    brake line screws directly into the wheel cylinder, and doesnt touch the backing

    plate at all. Perhaps you mean the flare fitting on the line? If thats the case you

    can just use flare tubing from your local Napa, they come in different lengths and

    you can screw into the "T" block on the drivers side of the axle. Make sure you

    inspect the rubber hose coming down from the frame, mine was worn through to

    just about bursting - from rubbing on "something".

    3. Is the bleeder "missing" or is it broken off?? If it was missing you would have

    no rear brakes, if its broken off then it will have to be extracted (not an easy task

    with years of rust). The set of brakes I mentioned above have backing plates

    and wheel cylinders (need rebuild) and working bleeders. The bleeder you can

    get from most parts houses, once you remove whats left of the old one.

    Hope that helps.


  16. Here is the disassembly proceedure for the R1 fuel pump, I will add

    text where it will be helpful, but the pictures should be sufficent.

    The stock Studebaker fuel pump is similar, so most of this will apply

    to that unit as well. If you have dialup, this might be a little bit

    for you, hit the red X or the "Stop" button on your browser. If you

    want to see a certain picture, right click it, and hit "show". I am

    using a rebuild kit from Studebaker International, with a different

    stem seal that is included in the "Cellar" kit :

    Here is the pump, off the car, and cleaned :




    Closeup of the plug holding the pivot pin in :


    Put in a vice (carefully) pinched on the "nose", and the plug hit with

    a center punch a few times to make a ridge. The material is pretty

    soft, I found that a screwdriver would "grind" it away :


    I used a flat blade screwdriver and tapped around the edge, creating a

    bump to pry against :


    Again with the flat blade, I chiseled (by hand) material away to gain

    better access to the plug, and get it out from under the "stake" :


    Plug popped out. The plug has a MUCH longer tip on it, the one in the

    kit is very stubby, and will allow the pin to move back & forth more.

    I think I will tap the hole and modify a screw to plug the hole :


    Pin comes out with a little cleaning of the hole :



  17. If you have your heart set, I found one that needs less work then what you describe,

    its an 1982 Avanti, here is a link to the post I made on the SDC site. Its in Southern

    California, and is currently listed as non-op. The owner has NO idea what he has,

    but the price is right.


    The pictures are dead, so the post on Craigslist might be dead, but the phone number

    is there, so you can call and see if its sold or not. I might be able to dig up the three

    pictures in an old email if the car is still available and the owner cant send them.

    Let me know.


  18. I am new here, almost have the Ford 4.6 DOHC engine and 4r70w trans in the Avanti, plus waiting for 12" front discs and rear disc adapter plates. With new 17" wheels on the way....

    Read the below threads, and send an Email to me sbca96@aol.com if interested in my 13" brakes.

    Avanti Forum original 11" GT brakes post :


    Avanti Forum followup (after rear installed) :


    Avanti Forum GT brakes to 13" Cobra brakes :



  19. Paxton on an LT1 has been done in the 4th Gen F-body (Camaro/Firebird) which

    has less hood clearance then the Avanti. They get around this by mounting the

    Paxton UNDER, which may or may not clear the Stude frame. As with any swap

    there will be issues to sort out. That 327 Corvette motor will get you enough $$

    to buy an LT1. The LT1 would be a simplier swap then an LS1, though the LS1

    being all aluminum shaves weight off the front of an Avanti - which is a good thing.

    There is a guy on the Racing Studebakers forum (and I believe he is on here as

    well) that will be doing an LS1 into an Avanti II. If you decided to go that route,

    you two could share costs on some of the fab work, as with most things, making

    one is expensive, making two is cheaper for both .. and so on.

    If you wanted to get REALLY nuts, you could drop in a 500 hp 7.0 LS7 crate motor,

    shave the weight, AND not need a supercharger. Considering what the cost of an

    LT1, and then a Paxton would be .. the LS2 or LS7 starts to make sense.


  20. Yes, N&A used Corvette motors in the Avanti II, the 327 would have been used in 1968.

    The Studebaker engine was no longer available due to the closure of Studebaker in 1964,

    Canadian Studebaker engineered the installation of a GM based engine into the Larks in

    1965 to stay afloat, so N&A used their mounts to install the Corvette engine. Its quite a

    peppy car, my dad has a 1969 Avanti II. The only "downside" is that the "rake" that was

    so loved on the Studebaker Avanti was "leveled off" on the Avanti II. This raised the

    front of the Avanti II about 1.5 - 2 inches. THey added a filler into the front fender to

    make up the difference. The change was made with more spacers between the body &

    the frame - to clear the taller GM engine. You could install an LS1 or LT1 engine which

    has a much lower intake, and drop the body back down - cut the fenders.


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