SBCA96AOAI Forum Members
Posts posted by SBCA96
I am running a 17 x 8 with 5.02 backspacing on my Avanti. With my Cobra
brake setup the 13" rotor is used as a spacer and cuts that down to 4.75. I
used long enough wheel studs in the modified Stude hubs to use up to a 1/4
spacer. Right now things clear OK, but at FULL lock my wheel contacts the
upper front threaded bushing cap. Steeltech never got back to me on that
info either, thats one reason I made my own disc setup. The other reason
is I could afford the $700 bucks. I think I made out better anyway.
The 95 LT1 should have spanish arch style ports, not square. You should be
able to use the Caprice/Impala manifolds. The Camaro ones are the same,
other than a different seal at the head pipe. You will need to use the smog
equipment, which includes using the Caprice dual CATs. Painless makes a
great kit, you did the right thing there. You also need 40 PSI fuel pressure.
I think that the later Monte Avantis used EFI, so one of those tanks should
work, someone can chime in on that. I would use the dual fans, & also the
radiator from the Caprice if you can. With the LT1, you should also be able
to remove the extra spacers between the body and frame and get the Stude
rake back. That will require removing the fender fillers. An inexpensive way
to relocate the A/C is available through Bowers.
I have 4 LT1s in my driveway ... and am currently swaping an LT1 into a 78
Camaro ... so I have done some research.
You should be able to run up to a 4.5 inch backspacing without clearance
issues. I am running 17 x 8 with a 5.02 back spacing, but my Cobra brake
setup uses the rotor as a spacer giving me 4.75 backspacing. Its still not
enough, and I get rim contact on the upper front threaded bushing. I am
looking into an adjustable steering stop to solve that, I could also use a
1/4 spacer, the studs I used in my modified hubs are long enough.
I have been using Dot 3 Synthetic .....
SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid is recommended for ABS, hydraulic drum and disc braking systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. Its premium, synthetic, low-moisture formulation provides superior anti-vapor lock protection. It has a high dry-boiling point up to 500°F that reduces the risk of fluid vaporization and possible brake failure.
*Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications
*For most ABS, disc or drum brake systems
*High boiling point reduces risk of brake failure
*Compatible with conventional brake fluids
How did you get it to fit properly? I found that the power seat assembly
made the seat bottom WAY too high compared to my 63 Avanti seats. I
guess the Avanti II seat bottoms are higher and you sit up higher? Head
room isnt a problem?
TomI installed 2001 Trans Am seats in my '81. ..... using the Trans Am mounts exclusively.Paul
Sorry for the lack of replies .. I started to give up logging into this forum
since no one posted ...
I never heard of GM using two different flexplates. I would assume that
the part would have a number on it, or some other distingishing feature.
You could measure the distance between the teeth on the gear, and then
go to the parts store and measure the new part.
I didnt get a chance to do a side by side comparison, but from what I
could tell from looking at them, the angle is REALLY close. I dont know
if the panel is fiberglass or plastic, but either should work. I was also
looking at the turn signals. They looked like they could be rotated up
90 degrees and used as wrap over lights for the front fenders.
TomHmmm......they look pretty good, don't they?
If you are going to start cutting and doing fiberglass work anyway, how
about looking into THESE lights from a late 90s early 00s Jeep Liberty?
I have been pondering changing my round-eye '63 over to these.
TomIf the other poster can't find a good round headlight Avanti, I'll settle for the round lights themselves.
Good info .. only things I would add is get some GOOD shocks on the car,
make sure that the tires are good, and add the larger swaybars that are
available from a few sources. This thread on Racing Studebakers might
be of interest to you guys also. I've been pondering more drastic ideas
to be made to the Stude front suspension (and rear).
TomRube Goldberg may not have been the original designer of Studebaker's steering, but one gets the impression he started with their covered wagon design and 'upgraded' it.
I guess the first question is, did you JUST replace the brakes at the wheels, or
did you replace the master cylinder also? I am running the early 70's Avanti II
master cylinder on my 63 Avanti with 4 wheel disc, & the fronts are two piston!
I havent had any trouble with low pedals. Prior to that I had the 11 inch GT on
the front and single large piston - also no problems. I was concerned about it
needing a different master cylinder with the 13" Cobra brakes & 2 piston calipers
but everything works perfectly together. If the master was replaced, check the
depth of the piston in the master relationship to the pin coming out of the brake
booster like Wayne mentioned. Check the old and new masters depth. Air is
the one thing that makes sense here. Call Steeltech.
I made this post about installing 4th gen Camaro seats in my 63, this will
work on the later Avantis as well. Just FYI if you want to save your back.
Unless you have the later Recaro cars.
I would suggest measuring your window at the correct location, and confirm that
its the same height. Then using the mirror base dimensions, check the top and
bottom locating dimensions I posted to confirm that the base is the same diameter.
Then I would use some kind of sharpie or something that you can mark the glass
with on the outside and with the help of a helper holding the mirror inside, locate
the mirror an mark the glass with an x and a circle. Then glue the mirror on.
Send them to me, and I will host and post them for all to see.
Here is a picture from my Camaro Z28 seat install:
The measurement I get from the top of the windshields weather stripping BOTTOM
edge to the bottom of the windshields weather stripping TOP edge (glass area) at
the location of the mirror is : 18 1/8"
The mirror bottom of the circular base to the top of the bottom weather stripping is : 2 9/16"
The mirror top of the circular base to the bottom of the top weather stripping is : 14 3/8"
These are all approx OUTSIDE dimensions.
Grrrr. I tried to post on the Yahoo group, but I dont see my post. I dont know
where it went. This is why I rarely check that group, its a shame that more of
those guys dont come over here. I guess they like the private messages??
If one of you on the group can check and see if it even posted, or link to this
thread or whatever .. I am tired and going to bed.
As many know on here I dont have the highest regard for Avanti Motors
since after handing them the finishing touch ('03 Cobra wheels) for their
all new Avanti they didnt have the decency to give me a "thank you". I
contacted Lew in hopes he could give me Kellys direct email address so
I could ask why I was never given any response, but I guess it needs to
be forwarded through a Florida jail now anyway. I had assumed that my
email was intercepted by someone at Avanti who submitted it as their own
idea (since it was immediately changed too its obvious the choice was a
correct one, getting that person a promotion or bonus), but its very much
possible that it was actually Kelly himself that took credit for it. Whats
quite funny, is my Cobra brake article was in the SAME issue as the one
they unveiled "their" new wheel choice. I bet whoever it was that used
my suggestion had no idea that my car would end up IN Avanti Magazine
(their primary advertisement source) and all over the internet with my
Cobra brake design. Not getting the "thank you" was only part of what is
bugging me, whats more upsetting is after a decade long search for THE
"right" wheel, people will think that I copied Avanti Motors.
If it isnt Michael Kelly, there is some dishonest person working there. Of
THAT I am very sure. I noticed that they had their own center cap made
for the latest cars wheels, that would have been the perfect "thank you"
gift, along with an official letter of thanks from Michael Kelly himself. Just
incase you are reading this Mr Kelly.
I wasnt looking for a Chip Foose type consulting fee, just some credit I
could share with friends. Look familar Mr Kelly?
I would say call Avanti and talk to them, if their assests havent been frozen,
they should still be able to sell one. Sounds like it might be a really good
investment since the ones in the Avanti Magazine article might be the end.
But how many times has "Avanti" died? I sware the name is cursed.
If I had it to do over, I might have rather had an Avanti II. Reason is its
going to cost me a LOT of money to rebuild the Studebaker engine, and to
adapt the T56 trans to the Stude engine. If I had an Avanti II, I would
simply install an LT1/T56 combo and call it good. I can not bring myself
to replace the Stude engine - so bye bye money!
I have 4 solid orders, the rest of the sets will go into storage. My brother wanted
one set when he gets his affairs in order. I hate to keep asking this, but its hard
to match names with email addresses, are you on my email list? Its the best way
I found to keep track of those interested, and interested in buying.
I had 5 solid orders, but my most interested person, and the one who kicked me
in the butt to make this happen, past away in recent months as I was told by his
son-in-law. I am saddened by this news.
Sorry about the Volvo, thats my big worry driving the Avanti back and forth from
my house to work (55 miles) and then home in the dark! Which is why I want to
upgrade the lighting on the car soon. Someone had mentioned the Jeep Liberty
in the past, the lights look like they might work well. Finding one wrecked with a
useable front end will be hard. Paying dealer costs isnt realistic.
If the Avanti says Studebaker on it, it has to be either a 1963 or 1964, those
are the more desireable Avantis. We are not talking 1 million dollars like a
COPO 1969 Camaro, but good as far as Studebakers go. Keep us posted, I
am sure that one of us on here would be interested in the "bad" one.
The Studebaker it sounds like what you are describing is a 1956-1961 Hawk,
which could range from a straight 6 Flight Hawk to a Packard engined Golden
Hawk. The value between the two is significant.
Flight Hawk :
Big winged Hawks (1957-1961)
The two Avantis are both usable in some way, the one you say is in great
shape obviously, but even the one sunk in the mud might be salvagable.
There is a guy looking for an Avanti body, so even if the frame is toast,
the bodies are fiberglass and should be fine. If the Avanti has the Stude
engine, its a 63/64, if it has a GM engine its 65-82. I am assuming that
they both have chrome bumpers. If you send me pictures to my Email, I
can help you out better.
Take a look at this page, it has lots of pictures:
I got the first article set of brackets from the CNC machinist last week, I
removed some material, and decided on a name/logo/position. I have
considered black anodize, but thats still in the air right now. I have to put
them on the Avanti and confirm fitment, and I can give the green light for
the CNC guy to make the remaining 10 sets. The logo will be engraved
into the leading edge flat of the bracket, which can be seen with the wheel
turned to full lock.
I will add to this thread the install of the first article set, when I get to it. I
think they came out very nice :
Welcome to the forum, maybe by hanging out here, you will get the
bug and buy your own Avanti. You feel like a celebrity when you go
around the block with all the attention. Not the best choice get-a-way
car for robbing a bank.
Looks real good. Did you color sand it to remove orange peel?
LT1 for 81 Avanti
in 1965-83 Avanti
I havent bought it myself. I only bought the A/C pump delete pulley from
a discount GM parts dealer back east. I wasnt going to use the A/C in
the 78 Camaro, at least not right away. The delete pulley allows you to
get past the initial fitment issues and get the engine in! Here is where I
found out about it :
I have read that the Corvette bracket is no longer available from GM, and
when you find it, its rather expensive. There is another setup available,
but its over 1000 for the kit - ouch!
When they made the Avanti II, they raised the body up on the frame with
extra body spacers and evened everything out. The reason they stated is
because the GM engine was taller. The LT1 is very low profile, so I would
bet that you could remove the extra spacers & mimic the Stude numbers.
In order to have the same clearance in the fender openings, you will have
to CUT the filler panels out of the fenders. I did this on my dads 69 Avanti.
I used templated made from a 63-64 Avanti and drew a line on the fender.
I used a cut off wheel and followed the line. If you look inside your front
fenders, you will see an added piece bonded on.
Here is my 63 next to an early 70 Avanti II, notice the distance between
the top of the fender and opening is more on the Avanti II :
See the difference in front end height? Its about 2 inches raised from 63.