SBCA96
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Posts posted by SBCA96
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What the heck happened here? Some ditzed brained pimple faced geek, who has
never had a girlfriend, rarely goes outside, hacked the site and stole the forum??
He probably recites lines from Harry Potter movies for fun, with his ONE friend
thats more of a geek then him. Glad to see its back up and running again!
Tom
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Went out driving around after correcting the runout issue, have a little bit
pulsating left, but it got better then more I drive it. The manufacturer had
told me to follow this proceedure :
http://www.volvospeed.com/Reviews/seasoning.htm
Here are a few pictures along the way :
Would you believe that those rear brakes are the same diameter as the
stock Studebaker fronts?
Getting down low .. and watching for cars!
Went to the beach, here is the river where it hits the Pacific :
Looks kinda menancing :
Here is what happens when your gas gauge doesnt work, and you throw
caution to the wind and decide to make "one run" before hitting the gas
station to fill up - you run out of GAS! Luckily, I was walking distance to
the Vandenberg Air Force Base NASA Gate. I was able to call a friend, &
he drove out to bring me gas. I made the mistake of taking a picture of
the Gate on the way back to the car. I was met shortly by Vandenberg
Police, & they were going to take my film until I explained it was a digital
camera. He had to watch, as I deleted the image, after calling into their
headquarters to find out what to do. 911 changed more then a few things.
This is for those who think there is no passenger side :
Tom
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I think I mentioned that the stock Mustang GT front hoses didnt fit the new
Cobra calipers. The problem was that the boss on the hose end, that the
banjo fitting bolt goes thru, is in a different spot on the pass side caliper.
The GT caliper has the boss in the bottom, the Cobra has it on the top on
both sides. To get the GT hose to fit, I needed to match the boss :
Here is another shot of the steel hose bracket I made. I made a drawing
for this, to make it easier to make another set.
Then I had to machine that hub, to get it right took two tries! It must have
been bent, since the pass side hub only needed a good wack to get it to be
within spec on runout. I would assume that a standard brake lathe could
be used to "true" up a hub before new bearings are installed. The other
fix would be to "true" the rotors with the hub bolted into them. I was not
able to do this, as you arent supposed to "turn" drilled and slotted rotors.
Then I went on too the rear brakes. I could have gone to Cobra rears, but
that would require modifying another set of brackets. I figured that the
GT rears were plenty fine for the 30% left to stop the Avanti. But I wanted
them to match .. so here are the drilled and slotted rears installed :
The old rotors :
Drilled and Slotted rotor installed :
Caliper back on, with new pads of course :
Tom
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In my effort to keep you all informed of the good AND the bad in this mod,
here is the latest :
After getting everything together on the car, I took it for the maiden
voyage and it was pretty obvious on the first stop, that something was
not right. The pedal was pulsating pretty good. These were two "new"
hubs that I had to history for, so I did some research on the max rotor
runout thats allowable. The spec I found was .005 at the rotor, which
translates to about .002 at the hub. I checked both sides, and one was
at .007, and the other was over .010! I was able to "correct" the .007
side to .0025 by removing the rotor, and hitting the "high" side with
my trusty BFH (Big Freakin Hammer). The hub was about .003 out, and it
was only in one localized area. A couple sharp blows got me .001 out.
With the rotor back on, that translated to .0025, which is within the
.005 max (.003 preferred). The other hub was .005+ out, & it was over
a 180 degree arc. It was pretty obvious that the BFH wasnt up to the
task of correcting that much error. So off the hub went, pressed out
the studs, and brought it to work and had Bobby take .006 off the front
side. Will try it on the car when I get home (before putting the old
studs back in) and see if its within .002 (.001 preferred).
Heck, if adapting brakes was easy - everyone would be doing it!
Tom
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The performance of the 350 Avantis depends on the year, the late 60's they used the
Corvette engine, and it had plenty of power. Through the 70s ALL V8s started losing
power across the board. So I would say that a late 60s 350 powered Avanti would be
pretty close to the R2 engine.
Second question. Yes. But avoid the temptation to cut the springs, you WONT like it
after the springs are cut. The best way is to remove the body spacers in between the
body and the frame, to the number that the Studebaker version had. If you get a high
miles Avanti II for cheap, then purchase a 93-97 Camaro/Firebird parts car with a good
engine and trans, and swap that into the Avanti. That will give you the hood clearance.
Supposedly the Chevy engine is taller then the Studebaker one. The LT1 engine has
a very low slung intake, so it would clear the hood with ease. The LT1 is 285 hp, which
is 'modern' HP and good for a 0-60 of under 6 seconds properly geared/traction, AND
a solid 25 mpg on the freeway with a light foot.
Tom
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You caught me, no there was no jack stand under the car, usually I use them, and they were only
about 6 feet away. I just didnt. If I was going under the car, I would have done it for sure, but I
wasnt under it, so I figured worst case, it will just end up on the jack.
As for needing big brakes, I needed brakes, and I figured why have what everyone else has? I
decided to share that it COULD be done, and have been asked for help in doing so. If you look
at the cost, it wasnt that much more expensive then Steeltechs 12" setup. Heck the two front
rotors costed less then one replacement Stude rotor. Both calipers were less then 200 and thats
with pads installed. Still prototyping, but its coming along.
Tom
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Once the Dodge studs are in the stock Stude hub, the rotor is an easy step
of tightening the lugs on, to draw the rotor onto the shoulders.
Then, the Cobra caliper gets bolted onto the bracket. With the thickness I
chose for the bracket at the mounting point, I found the perfect length of
bolt at Ace Hardware, though the size could be picked up anywhere.
Here is a shot looking over the Cobra caliper at the lower mounting bolt,
this shows how close the extention is to the steering arm, but it works!
Here is a shot of the upper mounting bolt, again close, but it clears! These
are BIG calipers, so they have a wide spread on the bolts.
Tire back on the drivers side, now off to do the passenger side.
Tom
I thought I would show the inner hub seals from Napa, the part number is
in the picture. They are nice, because they are not felt, but are a little bit
more difficult to install on the spindle, the rubber edge doesnt slip over on
the seal surface like the felt. I finally used the nut to put pressure on the
seal, and then rotated the hub and the seal popped on.
Hub on the passenger side spindle :
Rotor and caliper assembled :
Unfortunately, I found that the passenger side GT brake hose, does not fit
on the Cobra caliper. The locating boss interferes with the block on the
hose (these are banjo fittings). Not sure how I will correct his, I have the
stainless steel braided hoses, but some prelim comparisons made me think
that the braided lines can not fit where the rubber lines are, since the dont
bend as easily as the rubber! A speed bump .... I'll figure it out!
Tire assembly back on the passenger side :
Is this a freaking BIG brake or what? I guess I have now officially taken
away Steeltechs claim of the "biggest brakes available for Studebaker".
Sorry Dave! Though yours still fit inside 15" wheels. These wont!
Tom
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Nice work and pics
. Taking the time to post this work is much appreciated. It should be a quantum leap forward in improved braking and future brake service-ability.Joe MThanks Joe ... its certainly taking some effort to get done!
The next step was to remove the old bearing races, & install the new ones.
I added some Loctite & then tapped the new races in until they were flush
with the hub surface. I have installed bearing races this way for years, it
just requires that you continue to hit the race in a "star pattern", like you
torque wheel studs. This keeps the race from getting stuck :
Then I used my two cut old races to tap the rest of the way until the race
was against the machined step inside :
Then I pressed in the Dodge shouldered studs :
Finished hub, waiting to go on the car :
Then I had to remove the Mustang GT rotors, calipers, & the modified hubs
to make way for the unmachined hubs. The machined hubs are going to
Michigan to go on my dads 1969 Avanti II.
Clearance for wrenches is tight, but it works :
Drained out some brake fluid. As you can see, the prototype brackets got
some extra holes, that was to rotate the caliper up, to get the bottom bolt
higher then the steering arm, so a standard wrench could be used on the
top and bottom bolt, and tightened to 85 ft lbs :
Then pack the bearings, add the new seals (Napa now carries an updated
neoprene seal, was glad to toss the old felt ones!!), bolt it on the spindle,
new cotter pin, and add the modified "Help!" dust cap (not a direct fit like a
cross reference site for Studebaker listed!).
Tom
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Reposted from SDC:
My brother is coming to visit this week, so I am getting my daily
driver 224,000 mile Camaro polished up a bit. I have a host of things
I have been putting off for the last few years as I rack up the miles.
First order of business was to buy new tires, the 275/40R17s were now
slicks, and I didnt want to hand the car over like that. As with a
lot of things car rated, one item turned into another. The tire shop
did a free alignment check, and found that the camber and toe were out
of spec. I have also been putting off shocks, so I decided to just
get new shocks and struts since the front end must be aligned after.
I picked up the shocks and struts through the lifetime warrenty, but I
had to go to the next town since the local store was out of stock. I
got home, and swapped the rear shocks (they are easy). I was met with
a problem on the second shock, there was no nut or lock washer in the
plastic bag, only the shoulder bolt and spacer. I ran inside to wash
up and jet over to Home Depot but it was after 9pm - they were closed.
I began the search in the garage of all the nuts and bolts I had in my
assortment of tins and boxes - no such luck. Finally, about to throw
in the towel, I saw sitting in the corner a lone old lugnut. I picked
it up and checked it on the bolt and IT THREADED ON PERFECT! After a
little more searching I found single lock washer also. So now my '93
Camaro Z28 drivers side rear shock is held in place by a 40 year old
Studebaker lug nut.
Tom
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This is a great topic, and I am also interested in the findings if someone has done
this upgrade. I also updated a C/K with an electic pump years ago, and yes it was
an instant improvement. It was my '60 Hawk, and roughly a 10PSI pump, I had
to use a pressure regulator, so I would assume that pretty much ANY electric fuel
pump will deliver enough pressure for ANY older car (supercharged or not). I put
the one on my Hawk in the front, next to the radiator. Most say that they should
be in the rear, but I think that as long as its below the fuel level, it should be fine.
You dont want it to run WITHOUT fuel, it will burn up quickly. The Avanti tank sits
up pretty high, so I think it would be difficult to mount it above the fuel level.
Anyone done this mod yet?
Tom
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...someone explained that it was Mike Myers car and had better than 400 hp.
Oh Wow! I LOVE his movies!
Austin Powers was a hoot! 
Tom
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Thats unfortunate.
Tom
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Interesting Avanti .. thanks for sharing the pictures!
Tom
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Got out there tonight and drilled the holes out in the new rotors. Thought I
would show a couple pics, the rear rotors had smaller holes, but this could
be because they are "aftermarket". Used the 5/8 drill and went to town:
Rear:
Front:
Sorry about those pics, I dont know WHAT the camera was focusing in on,
it certainly WASNT the rotor. Hummm.
Here is a couple shots of how little material had to be removed from the
front rotor holes, here is one drilled through :
Here is a partial drilled hole. Not a lot to remove :
Close up :
Tom
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Tires are on the car, transmission is serviced, new exaust extensions and the gas tank seems to be leak-free so far. Lookin' great and freeway safe. But, now my attention is directed to a bunch of rattles coming from the rear, a slight brake pull to the left, and an engine that pulls strong but doesn't idle quite as smoothly as it ought to... possible vacuum leak, or maybe I need to change the spark plugs.
Way to go Wayne! I didnt drive my Avanti today, I need to drive down to LA today and
buy some tires. I know that I recommended Big Brand, but you use the common tires,
my cars all have 16 inch or larger. I found a place in LA that sells a tire made by Goodyear
under the "Kelly" name, thats a knock off of the $250 a tire "F1". This place doesnt sell any
tires UNDER 17"! For the money I will save, its worth the drive. Our network here is toast
at work, so I lost the work I was doing, so until they recover it, I am dead in the water. I
was working on an overhead job, and that file got corrupted when the network crashed
yesterday, so I am afraid to work on anything now. I should make it to In N Out by around
9 pm tonight, if you want to swing by with your Avanti. I am driving the 224,000 '93 Z28
beater Camaro today.
As for your issues, rattles usually are exhaust, and if your idle is bad ... my Avanti has a
symphony of exhaust rattles, some from directly under the floor, and some from behind.
I would put some plugs in, it certainly can not hurt, and if you cant remember the last time
they were done ... also .. there is a little light (too bad I am at work already or I would
have brought it) you can get (Walmart) that you put next to spark plug wires to check if
they are working right. I found 5 suspect wires on the wifes 78 Camaro with it. Its about
5 bucks - simple to use. Brake pull is usually leaking or stuck wheel cylinders in the front,
look for wet or shiny insides on the inside of the front tires.
The tool is made by "Katar Hand Tools", part #92A, its called a "Spark Plug Firing Indicator".
Made in the USA.
Tom
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I got a set of front brake hubs from a guy who had recently upgraded to
Turner disc brakes from his tired 4 wheel stock drums. I pressed the old
drums off the hubs, and then trial fitted the stock hub into the 13" Cobra
rotor, and it fit perfectly - that was a BIG relief! :
The next step was to press out the old studs :
Here is the studless hub :
Did you know that the factory studs have NO knurl?? No wonder they tend
to strip out so easy with an impact gun!
They looked SOOO ugly, I scraped them with a screw driver, and the took
them to work and used the wire wheel :
Thats all for now .. I had to order the new wheel bearings, seals, caps, and
also make a tool to pound out the old races. The caps I got from Pepboys
in the Help! section, but the part that slips into the hub was too long, so it
would not sit flush, hub against the crimped shoulder. I also bought the 10
Dodge wheel studs mentioned in my original article, and drilled the hub for
the interference fit for the knurl. I took two of the old bearing races, one
of the inners, & one of the outers, and had the machine shop at my work
cut a slot through one side with the chop saw. This will allow me to use as
an installer, so I dont risk damaging the new race with an out-of-control
chisel tip! I went to buy a bearing race installer kit from the local Harbor
Freight, but they were sold out! I will update this thread as I go.
Enjoy!
Tom
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I will direct you to this thread :
http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=437
And the following quote from "avanti-info" on Jun 1 2006, 08:56 PM
"In response to the questions about Avanti's future existence. Avanti Motor Corp. will soon be announcing exciting news about future production and future models. Avanti has not "gone away", it is only going through an important transition that will be made public soon.
This is the only post that will be made in this forum until the news on Avanti's new plans are released later this summer."
Tom
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Finding out why the rear axle froze, and what was damaged would be the first order
of business. Its doubtful that you would need a whole rear end assembly. Most
likely its either in the rear brakes (frozen wheel cylinder) thats causing the wheel to
not turn. If it is actually a frozen axle, then it could be a matter of replacing the
outer bearings and seals. The axle in your Avanti is a standard Dana 44, which is
quite common in the offroad world. Most offroad shops can completely rebuild your
rear end assembly in a day. The cost is the issue. While getting a replacement
might seem like a good idea, the reality is that the replacement might be worse! Or
on the verge of being worse. I would look into repairing what you have. Fairborn
Studebaker sells a kit to upgrade these Dana 44's to a MUCH stronger flanged axle,
that basically means that breaking an axle shaft would be close to impossible. By
design, the axles IN your current rear end assembly are prone to breaking when
they get many miles or years on them. The Fairborn axle kit comes with a set of
new bearings, and seals for just under $500 dollars. A local shop to you, should be
able to install them in only a couple hours. If you have a brake problem then it
would require some more work. Just a couple thoughts.
http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/
I am in Santa Barbara, Ca .. I dont have any suggestions about places to take your
Avanti too, but if you have any questions send me an email : SBCA96@aol.com
I might be able to source a shop near you if you need that.
Tom
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It WAS leaking. I took it back to the guy who cleaned it, but had to leave it because he wasn't there (closed over the 4th holidays). When I picked it up he apologized and said he should have tested it the first time
The only thing worse then doing a drawn out messy repair, is doing it twice. We have all been
there Wayne, I feel for yah man!! At least you got it done (fingers crossed).
Would you believe the quote for the same tires I priced about 3 months ago at the same place (your favorite, Tom) has gone up $75!!!!Call Gary over at the Goleta store off Fairview, he should set things straight for you. He talks
REALLY fast, so have about 5 cups of coffee before talking to him.
Tom
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Keep it up, Tom!! Pretty soon, you'll have to hire an agent to handle your Avanti and your fans!!
Tom
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Tom:
Great pictures!! And the Mustang disc brakes really look cool behind those wheels!!!
Good to see you out driving it to all the cruise-ins and shows..... Lew
Thanks Lew, I am trying to get it out and about as much as possible, as you know
the Cobra brake parts are here, I havent put them on yet. We suffered a loss in
the family recently, and thats kinda dampered the mood here. Our cat of 17 years
lost her battle with kidney failure, and we had to put her to sleep. I havent felt
like doing much lately, but I need to kick things back into gear. I found that the
Stude hubs DO fit the Cobra rotors without modification to the diameter, so thats
promising. I need to order the larger studs for my unmodified hubs, new bearings
and then drill the new rotors. I also need to fab another set of hose brackets.
Tom
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i hate to ask more but: how about a side view right, left.
gage of s.s. ...your hei unit cover , does it need more width and or height?According to my calipers ... its .020 thick, I dont know what gage that is. I also
dont know the exact changes needed to fit the HEI yet, I guess I need to do
some measuring soon!
Tom
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Karl sent me these tonight, it seems that the comments about his car had
made him look into lowering it. Personally I dont think it sat too high. BTW
those that are considering lowering an Avanti should make SURE to check
the tire to fender clearance at full lock, and under spring compression to
the lower rubber bumper. Avanti II's with their added 2" filler, are known
to crack front fenders with the STOCK wheels. Just an FYI warning.
Anyway ... here it is, looking like a tiger ready to strike!
Tom
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Wow that would be cool! maybe if the event is still going on in a few years
then i will be able to attend. have fun!
Tom
Hacker / Hijacker
in Avanti Pub
Posted
Lew,
Dang! I called that one right! At 14, I even got the pimples correct. You would think
that with all those missles hitting the ground in Israel, there would be more things to
think about than hacking an American forum for a 40+ year old car!
I sent you an Email in regards to my Avanti articles, and I didnt hear back, should
I resend it? It might have gone to that kid in Israel instead.
Tom