SBCA96AOAI Forum Members
Posts posted by SBCA96
Thanks Joe, yah Mark ... I am in the process now. Also Dan can help with
finding the manual parts, as his Avanti was an auto.
If you have a Studebaker bellhousing, "Dan Giblin" over on the SDC page
has a kit to install any T-5, TKO/TR-3550 or TKO500/TKO600 trans. I have
bought his kit to install a TKO/TR3550 into my Avanti and sold my T-56 off.
I am doing a install proceedure on SDC, and Dan is working with me on a
few tweaks to make my install easier (since I have a recent clutch).
email@example.com. Price is $279.
My install thread :
Dan's original thread :
TomMark: Talk to Tom (SBCA96) about options for manual transmissions mated to a Studebaker engine. He recently let go a T56 in lieu of a TKO unit. Hope this helps, Joe M
I couldnt stand the factory seats in my '63, so I installed 97 Camaro leather
seats in the front. They are a close match to the design and color for Fawn.
Sound heard inside the Avanti factory in Mexico :
Thanks Ward, its an uphill battle keeping the car on the road, so many things tend
to break when a car sits for so many years. Since these pictrues were taken I've
gone through the entire power steering system. I posted the process on the SDC
forum, but quite frankly I need to get with Lew and get him to add them as some
"stickies" here. I also might get Sonny over at Racing Studebakers to do the same.
I hate to see people asking the same questions over and over and not being able
to find the info that has already been provided.
That sucks .. I hope they get their act together. Other orders are dependant!
Hubcentric wheels didnt start turning up until the late 80's, this was due to extra
vibration that exists in lugcentric applications. Ultimately the lugs support the
weight, since obviously force becomes a sideload on a turn. Also, after my trek
into brake design for my Avanti, I found that the hub casting isnt even machined
concentric! Spin your wheel and watch the hub! Both of mine wobble like crazy
and I sure wouldnt want my wheels to follow that motion.
TomThe hub is supposed to support the weight of the vehicle, not the bolts. I'll keep looking.
I have been detailing the rebuild process on my 63 Avanti power steering
rebuild on the SDC forum. I need to get with Lew, and maybe get a tech
sticky of each on this forum. SDC refuses to use stickys, and the same ol
questions get asked over and over again. Lots of GREAT info have been
lost on page 15. Its a real shame. Bob Johnstone has been transfering a
lot of what I have done to HIS page :
Wow .. well they certainly tainted the name "Avanti".
Is this a Silvertone system? I have been considering the 2-1/4 inch setup.
The dimensions I got from "T-bow" for the mufflers are :
"26 inch overall 2 1/4 center in 2 1/4 center out. small oval can."
I would be interested in pictures of your exhaust, maybe you can take a
few of it snaking through the X-member while the car is on a lift?
These "Flex-a-Form" springs are the tapered fiberglass ones and resist wheelhop?
You must upload the file onto the web somewhere and then put the proper
syntax at the start and end of the link. I can send it to you in an email,
but if I post it on here, the forum will input a red X thinking I was actually
posting a link incorrectly.
TomUh oh! Added file - don't see it. What do I need to do to add attachment?
Pictures didnt come through. Is this a dealer or the plant in Mexico?
TomHere's some pics of the "move" - they are gone!!
Very cool, very nice looking. I cant wait to see the prototype out on a track under
a finished car. Some 0-60, 60-0 and slalom numbers will be impressive I'm sure!
The 700R4 doesnt have a vacuum control, its a TV cable hookup. Older TH350
transmissions had the vacuum, but I am pretty sure later ones went to a cable
as well. Regardless, this topic was done to death on the SDC forum and some
very good points were made. The point thats worth repeating here is :
Its NOT worth going through the cost and hassle to put a TH350 trans into an
Avanti with a Powershift transmission. The Powershift is a better transmission
in just about everyway imaginable. The rebuild kits are available and any tech
thats ever rebuilt an older Ford BW unit can do the work. There are also a few
Studebaker vendors that will do it for you. The ONLY reason to go through all
that work and money is to reap the cost savings of a GM OD trans. If you do
not drive the car enough to benefit from an OD trans, you wont have to worry
about rebuilding your Powershift ever again.
Its interesting you mention a 2nd gear start, unless I am mistaken the PS is a
1st gear start trans. So if yours starts in 2nd, it might be a plain Flight-O-Matic
in which case a TH350 would be an improvement. Info here :
Keep in mind that once you lower the front, you might want to cut the fender
out to get the correct top of tire to fender opening distance. The Avanti II
had a fiberglass filler glued in. I cut this out on my dads '69 with a template
made from a Studebaker Avanti.
Keep us posted .. and get those pictures up!
Ditto to what Wayne said, and I stress the caster adjustment.
Once you take care of the worn parts (dont forget the bellcrank), there is
an adjustment in the rear of the control valve. I just rebuilt my whole PS
system and upon completion was VERY unhappy with how it darted back
and forth. The cap is held on with two screws, and there is a 1/2 selflocking
nut on a shaft. This is the PS sensitivity adjustment. Loosen this one to
two flats (NOT TURNS) and write it down (or mark it). Drive the car and
see if its any better. If this part was recently replaced, rebuilt or messed
with, it could be set wrong. I turned mine 1.5 flats and it made a HUGE
difference ... like a new car. Also, there is an adjustment on the pitman
arm ball that can take up slack there. It requires almost a complete tear
down though. If you can FEEL movement up and down in the bellcrank, it
can be adjusted by taking out the slimest shim and bolting it back up. on
mine this made a nice change also. I put the shim under the nut so the
cotter pin can go into the same hole as before. The shim does not effect
the end play unless its on the shoulder of the pin, and holding the washer
away from the housing.
I can't imagine there are many Avantis around here, I wonder if you are
the person the story was about. Details are different but its like the game
"telephone" where the message changes. I am in Santa Barbara. Where
was it you were failed?
TomI first failed due the Avanti printed label on the engine indicated there was a EGR valve, but the inspector could not find it and he failed me> Iwas sent to a state referee at Pierce College in Woodland Hills.
If you live in California (or other pollution controlled State) be careful when
buying an Avanti. Check with the DMV. A friend of mine who used to be in
the Smog course at the local City College was recently told by his friend who
runs the Smog Rep station that an Avanti came in the other day. He had to
turn the car away as a FAIL (means cant be registered in Ca) because it did
not have the proper smog documentation. Apparently Avanti leaves the info
that Ford put under the hood, but its NOT being registered as a Mustang so
the stickers have the "wrong" info. Bummer.
TomHowever, does anyone know if they have produced/sold any 2007 cars? I did meet a fellow in South Bend who had bought a 2006 in May from the factory in Cancun, but he said at that point no 2007s had been built.
Sounds much better on the outside than the inside.
Congrats on your purchase.
On 83 Avanti would be the 20th anniversary, its possible there was a Paxton option. Your Chevy 305 is a
dog no doubt, but I have to take issue with comparing it to the R1. An '83 305 is lucky to have 120 hp, the
R1 came with 240 hp. We have a 305 in a 78 Camaro, the word "dog" doesnt even come close. The dual
hood bumps sound quite odd, a picture would be appreciated.
Also your 305, if setup FOR a blower, will be even MORE of a "dog" without it. You might have a TH700R4
transmission in that, I remember reading 83 was the first year. Unfortunately its the bad 700, but would be
easy to update to a newer 700 or 4L60.
You might consider installing an LT1 into you Avanti to get some REAL power. The lower intake would also
allow you to drop the body on the frame to get the Studebaker rake without suspension travel loss. The
upgrade to an LT1 would also give you the option of a 4L60E or T56 6 speed.
TomThe 83 has a Chevy 305 for power, and it's a dog - like the original R-1. Mine has a Paxton blower which was off the car needing overhaul when I bought it.
And a curious item. This car has both the normal Avanti driver's side hood hump, plus a matching one on the passenger side. To me it neither looks better or worse than the normal hood, but I'd never seen this before. Anybody have the story on it?
The above link has a link to a thread that has measurements from my Avanti
and also Karls Avanti. In the above link there are some dimensions from a
source I am not familar with, but you can contact the individual. First I would
make sure that there are no spacers between the spring and the control arm
and the spring and the frame. There are Avanti II spacers that will fit a Stude
Avanti and raise the car. Once you know that there are no spacers, check to
see if you have extra spacers between the body and frame. I am at work at
the moment so I dont have access to my Avanti to count them, but maybe it
will be posted by someone else before I get home later. After you know there
isnt any outside force causing the height issue, then yes the springs must be
changed to lower the car. The only other possibilty is that the suspension was
assembled wrong. When the front end was rebuilt, did they drop the car on
the wheels to settle the suspension before tightening the ruber bushing caps
on the upper and lower control arms?? If the caps are tightened with hanging
suspension, they CAN hold the car up until forced down. This is NOT a good
thing to do, as it CAN destroy the new bushings. All bolts should be torqued
to the proper specs EXCEPT the end caps, and those torqued while sitting on
all four wheels at ride height (or equvilent).
What you are describing could range from worn wheel bearings to tierods, to a
controld valve, etc. Its very hard to narrow down, unless you get under the car
and actually force parts back and forth to find slop. One of the main places to
check is the bellcrank (or center pivot). This has a tendency to move up & down
rather than just rotate, which can cause quite a lot of play. I am currently doing
a complete rebuild on my power steering and documenting the process in a few
threads on the SDC site. I might check with AOAI and see if they have a tech
section that can utilize "Stickys". Anyway .. here is what I have done so far :
Control Valve :
Steering Ram :
Bob Johnstone has a great amount of resources on his page of what to look at
for wear and repair. Rather then retyping here ..
I just picked up the first two sets from the CNC shop with the engraving,
it came out pretty nice. These already have owners, so I will be able to
get some feedback as to how well Studebaker kept their tolerances. They
go with me tomorrow to be checked on the surface plate for all the critical
dimensions. Things are moving along now.
Changes from the "First Article" set include, the "key hole" shaped grease
trap to a "cam lobe" shape, and of course - the engraving.
Development has started on the GT rear caliper mounting bracket, and it
will soon follow with a Cobra rear caliper mounting bracket.
Avanti II mods
in 1965-83 Avanti
Thanks Wayne and Joe for the kind words, yes Wayne I am "in production", but at the moment I
am waiting for feedback on fitment from the first two sets sent out. I want to make sure that the
tolerance between Studebakers allows for the measurements I took off MY Avanti. Just because
they fit MY Avanti, doesnt mean they will fit all Avantis/Studebakers. I am also waiting for some
measurements promised to me from one of the first two. Also, it should be pointed out that the
Mustang GT brakes WILL fit inside a 15 inch wheel, though I would suggest trying your current
rims on a friends 94-04 Mustang to make sure they clear the caliper to the face of the wheel, not
the wheel rim. Mustangs are everywhere, so even ask someone at a car show.
It is interesting to note that from the install instructions on Turners website, the wear indicators
must be ground off the pads in order to clear the Turner install bracket, so much for the modern
early warning conveinence.
As for lowering the Avanti, if you did a combination of lowering the body on the frame, and also
cutting the springs (or buying some Eaton lowering springs http://www.eatonsprings.com/) that
should lessen any ride issues. When we lowered my Dad's '69 Avanti II (Wayne's old Avanti) it
was done by only cutting the springs. This resulted in a bumpy ride, as the lower arms will now
hit the rubber bushings. We also cut the fenders out, Avanti II's are known to crack fenders on