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Posts posted by SBCA96

  1. Interesting problem. You could have special bolts made with a shoulder or drill the

    holes out to the next standard size and have some fillers made from grade 5 washers

    to go into the enlarged hole. Once everything is bolted together, the filler will keep

    the bolt centered in the hole. You could tack the filler into place. Another way to fix

    the problem would be to have plates made with the same pattern, and add some new

    holes in the plate and the frame to bolt the plates to the outsides of the mounts. The

    plates would require slightly longer bolts most likely, and should be the same material

    thickness as the frame. Use grade 5 hardware to mount the plates, or weld them. If

    memory serves the eye bolts are grade 5, you would need to confirm this. If they

    are grade 8, then use that grade for the fillers or plate mounting hardware.

    Yes, the bushings in the frame require a special tool, though you can make a tool from

    bolts, washers and steel tube. I havent done it myself, but I read of others have.


  2. I saw that, cracked me up that I have cousins of two of the scariest cars.

    An Impala SS clone, and a Studebaker Avanti. They list the car as an Avanti

    II, and sport coupe. Lots of mis-information in that article. It was not the

    Buick Regal that had the phrase "Vader, your car is ready", it was actually

    the Impala SS. oops.


  3. I am making steps back toward the Avanti, and developing the rear brackets

    to mount the disc brakes. I sent out an email to those on my list to let them

    know that I am having the CNC guy make 3 more sets for sale. My wife is on

    the mend, and the '99 SS we bought her it turning into a good distraction from

    losing her '95 Camaro Z28.

    Anyway .. I am still around, I would like to get my next article done for Avanti

    Magazine, which will be the TKO 5 speed install.


  4. You can build anything to handle what you want, doesnt mean that one should go

    and buy a used 200 from a salvage yard and expect it to handle a V8 engine. My

    point is, its a dis-service to people to compare their 1500+ dollar special built trans

    to a common everyday 200. The 700 can be pulled from a wrecked Camaro and

    used right away - I wouldnt do the same with a 200.

    Unless you pick up a 200 from a Grand National, stick to a '88 or newer 700R4.


    I have a reworked 200R4 in my El Camino - 450+ horse, turbo 383 SBC.
  5. Apparently the 200-4R has a little better gear spread, which makes sense since it

    was designed as a small engine transmission. The 700-R4 was designed for larger

    engines, and has a wider spread. The problem with most 200's is that it wont hold

    up to the abuse of a even slightly modded V8 when stock. Weight is also almost

    the same between the 200 and 700 so dont get fooled by that.

    I found that general daily driving was improved with the low first gear, the car

    felt like it was considerably faster. I would get mid-20's on the highway with my

    modded Studebaker V8. You dont need the Myer kit if you have a Chevy V8. Do

    make sure that you stick to the Gen 1 and Gen 2 bolt pattern trans though. It is

    in your best interest anyway, as all Gen 3 are the electrically controlled, which will

    be even better, but more expensive to set up.


  6. I have one of those around here for a round headlight Avanti. The plastic for

    the headlights are yellowed though. Was in the trunk of my Avanti when I got

    it years ago. I think its in the attic now.


    No you dont have to take any thing off. The Bra has straps for everything that goes around something.
  7. Mine was a 3 spd, but it isnt anymore. Quite frankly it was horrible to drive

    so my guess is, of the 30 Avantis that came with 3 spds, only a few would

    still have the 3 spd in it. The T-86 is a crappy trans, the gear spread is not

    useful, and the non-syncro first gear makes life difficult. I just finished the

    install of a TKO 5 speed manual trans and have NO regrets. Sure I thought

    about how rare it must be, but I didnt want to drive it! It certainly would only

    be worth money to someone that knew they came with 3 spds, and thats a

    very few group of people. Even the experts were stumped when I showed

    them the proof. Here is the detailed thread on SDC :


    I will be rewriting it for an article in Avanti Magazine if Lew wants.


  8. Sloppy steering is a major headache, what cylinder are you refering too?

    THere is a rag joint on the steering column that can cause play, the center

    pivot (bellcrank) is a common place, incorrect alignment, previous worn

    tires from prior to fixing the play, and other areas.



    My 85 with 127000miles has had sloppy steering for years. Replaced parts and adjusted the box. Nothing seemed to help. Two years ago I spent a lot of money to have a GM cylinder installed which has been a big disappiontment. Has anybody looked at using a Chrysler cylinder in a Avanti? Thanks Bob
  9. Thanks Joe,

    It does run amazingly good considering the 103k on it. I have only done

    valve seals/spark plugs as far as making it run better. The restrictive

    exhaust is one of the things on my list, as is eventually sway bars. The

    rear suspension has shown its inadequacy since the lower TKO first gear

    has been introduced. The T-86 has a 2.5 first, your T56 has a 2.66 and

    the TKO has a 3.27!!! Thats made a huge difference in launch, which

    has also bad the rear axle hit the floor with ease! I am checking on a

    set of fiberglass rear leafs, and will do some Bilstein shocks. For sway

    bars I have been considering the TBow 20th anniversary Avanti set.

    Thanks for the reply, its helpful to know my work is appreicated. ;)


  10. I put the DV cam into the open center console, with the lid flipped

    back, and used a garage door opener remote to prop it up. I will get

    an actual CAM mount, but this had to do for now.

    Here is the gear whine the TKO makes, I did a slow run through the

    gears up to 4th:

    Here is a harder run up through 5th gear, without a functioning tach

    I am quite hesitant to wrap the RPMs up too high. I also have a bad

    squating problem thats become VERY bad with the lower TKO gearing.

    Here is the hardest run of the day, you can hear the tires bark into

    second gear, and the rear end hit the floor on launch.

    I will be putting together another article for Avanti Magazine covering

    the TKO install process.


  11. Too bad the 5.0 is a total dog though. I guess by the end of the 80's

    it had become somewhat better, but a Stude 289 has more guts. The

    Monte Avantis are better balanced though, I would figure they would

    be fairly easy to launch well. My plan for the '63 is road course work.

    I might play on the 1/4 mile, but not seriously. Once I get the TKO in

    its gonna be cake to smoke the 245/45 R17s. I just need to hook up

    the factory traction bars again ... or the upcoming Cal-Tracs that is in

    the works by Dan Giblin (who made the TKO install kit I am using).


    Almost got into trouble a couple of times with the rearend breaking loose on wet pavement. After all the 5.0L engine is larger than what Studebaker put in them.
  12. REAL 300 hp is easy to get out of an LT1, and with 251,000 miles on my '93 Z28

    I can say its damn dependable. We also have a TPI '86 IROC & it throws codes

    more often then Britney Spears is in the news. The Bosch system with the MAF

    is terrible, and to turn a MAF to Speed Density is a pain. A running LT1 can be

    picked up for 500 to 1000 these days since the LS1 became popular. By the time

    you get all your TPI parts together you could be close to 500 bucks. Then you've

    got a Frankenstein motor, which if you didnt do your homework can be hell. The

    LT1 can be plug and play, there is some great info here that applies :




    We are currently installing one into a '78 Camaro, total cost of the engine, 4L60E

    trans and plenty of other parts in a 67k mile wrecked Firebird was 2300 bucks.

    Compare that to a 4000 dollar crate engine, and its a no brainer. PHR did a

    383 crate motor in a 76 Camaro and once they got it to pass smog it had 180 hp.

    That was around a 200+ hp drop from what it did in the dyno. Keep in mind the

    crate engines are rated differently than the LT1's real world rating.

    Height wise the TPI is considerably taller, much the same as a carb :


    The LT1 is more compact :



  13. I would suggest going with a complete LT1, the lower intake plenum will allow dropping

    the body to Stude height on Stude framed cars. The engine will make more HP and is

    a much more reliable/troublefree setup. TPI is great, mostly, but avoid the MAF driven

    units from the mid 80's, opt for the speed density ones from the late 80's early 90's. It

    will require the same fuel pressure for either system = 40 psi over the 7 psi of the ECC.

    This will require a different fuel tank/pump setup. If you are going through this much

    hassle, use an LT1 and get the full benefits. The LS1 would be great, but requires more

    work to get it to fit. LT1 is almost bolt in by relocating the A/C pump to the Vette spot.


  14. Same here, and sometimes I dont bother to check it at all. I am running high

    speed DSL at home, faster than a T1, but loading this forum its like a 33k

    modem from 1993. I agree that there is a problem.


    Same here ! This site is painfully slow, because of this its one of the last I visit.
  15. Wow ... many have wondered where that car went! Good to hear from you.

    Do you have any pictures of it currently? You might also sign onto the SDC

    forum and the Racing Studebakers forums. They are more active then this.




    The car is presently owned by me, Richard Bennett, Irwin, Pa.. ... Hope to have the Due Cento at an AOAI meet soon so that all may enjoy all the History!
  16. The wheels I chose are a narrowed version of the 03/04 Mustang Cobra rim.

    The factory wheel is a 9 inch wide but these have an inch taken off the inside

    which results in a 17 x 8 with a 5.02 back spacing. My Cobra brake setup uses

    the rotor as a spacer giving me 4.75 backspacing, and I had a spacer made

    of .100 thk to give a little more room - it STILL touches on one side, so I will

    adjust the tierods to compensate. If you want to lower your Avanti in the

    future, I would recommend putting an LT1 FI engine in, which would allow you

    to lower the body on the frame. You can get a wrecked 4th gen Camaro or a

    Firebird for $2000, and use the engine and trans (4L60E or T56).

    Shocks are another story I havent got to yet .. I plan on using Bilstein shocks

    on all corners, 2nd Gen Camaro shocks are almost bolt in for the front, which

    are the same as 94-96 Impala SS. The rear shock is tricky. I want to use a

    stock shock, so my plan is to modifiy the car to accept something unmodified.

    Hope that helps.


    Hi Tom,

    What's the back spacing on your wheels ? I want to install Roto RB (Panasport look-a-likes) 17 x 7 wheels with Avon Tech 500 225 x 55 x 17 tires on my '82 with a "built" 383 sbc and 700R4. What shocks would you recomend?

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