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Posts posted by SBCA96

  1. Now on to the rear! I have not finished the install, the brakes function, but

    I have not hooked up the parking brake. I originally installed the calipers

    opposite to the 98 Mustang (forward of the rear axle) because it looked like

    the factory parking brake cable would fit that way, but after getting it on

    the car, it was obvious that they would work better in the factory location.

    My plan is to use the factory cable, with a tube on the cable end to relieve

    the jacket when the handle is pulled - we shall see!

    The Ford rear disc calipers are bolted to a bracket which bolts to the rear

    axle, so modifying this bracket is more simple then starting over. The center

    hole was enlarged and a "break out" was created so that the bracket could be

    mounted to the back of the axle flange.


    Setting up the rear hubs is the same as the front, except the diameter inside

    the rear disc is larger then the front, so the hub doesnt need to be machined.

    As with the front, the longer wheel studs with shoulders were pressed in. The

    holes in the disc were drilled out, as with the front discs.


    The following pictures show the brackets on the wrong sides, though the way

    they mount either side is the same. The error was explained above. These

    pictures came out too good to not use - you get the idea. Here is the 'new'

    bracket mounted on the backside of the axle flange:



    Then you put the drilled rotor onto the new wheel studs:



    Thread on the lug nuts:



    And then tighten the lugs down evenly to "draw" the rotor onto the shoulders

    of the wheel studs. After you do this, the rotor should stay there, or you

    can leave the lugs on until the caliper is on. Once the caliper is hooked up

    and the pedal has been pushed, the caliper will self align, and the pads will

    hold the rotor in place while the tire assembly is off. To remove the rotor

    from the hub takes a sharp blow from a rubber mallet.


    Once this is completed, its a matter of following the instructions in the

    Haynes manual for a 98 Mustang GT. You bolt on the caliper mount bracket:


    Slide the pads into the mount bracket, & then put the caliper over the pads:



    I bought new hoses for a 98 Mustang GT from Autozone, the hoses have brackets

    as part of the hose assembly. The Avanti has a welded on bracket for the

    rear swaybar. There is a hole that is unused. This was a perfect place to

    mount the hose bracket. The length of your shocks should be checked to make

    sure that when the axle is hanging, there isnt any strain on the hoses:


    The passenger side hose assembly has a dual block, I decided to use this as

    a splitter, and run the center metal line out to here, and then bend a new

    line to cross back over to the drivers rear. There is more then one way to

    go about doing this. I just didnt want to stick with the Stude rubber line,

    since its not going to get easier to find. I am glad I replaced it, after I

    had a chance to inspect it, I found that it was rubbing against SOMETHING.



    The combination of the front & rear set, makes for a balanced factory system.

    I have also found that the front Cobra setup is balanced to the GT rear. It

    was relayed to me from a Ford parts supplier that "no one ever needs to add

    a proportioning valve when upgrading to the Cobra front, from GT front, on a

    GT Mustang". Thats good news for part 3, which will happen right after I get

    my tax refund! I plan on zinc plated cross drilled and slotted 13 inch rotors

    front with 'PBR' aluminum 2 piston Cobra calipers, and matching zinc plated

    drilled and slotted rear rotors for the rear.


  2. Thanks for the words of support, they do help.

    We got the quote on the kittys leg amputation - 800 bucks. After telling a few people

    at work here yesterday, I have already started getting donations, the first being a

    check of a surprising amount. There still is kindness in the world, I guess thats the

    "evening out" you speak of. This kitty was found by a fellow employee out in the back

    behind our work, apparently thrown from a moving vehicle on the freeway behind.

    Its back was broken, and rear legs paralysed. Surprisingly, its the most friendliest

    cat you ever met, and its mood is happy and playful, not effected by its hardships.

    Its truely an inspiration, something that I wish I was able to acheive.


  3. This is not a happy post for me to type.

    Its been a rough year for me, until I get my tax refund, I dont have any

    more money to "play". As many on here know, I have developed a

    brake setup that can stop the engines you guys want to build, but I have

    gone the opposite route - ground up. I have a decent engine that I can

    build from the parts left from my 60 Hawk, but for me, brakes were the

    starting point, whats the point in going fast, if you cant stop all that HP??

    I got permission to make 4 sets of brackets from my work. I just DONT

    have the money to get them made. I have ONE person that has actually

    offered to send me a check for what I have found it will cost. I have been

    holding back on sending him the info to send me the check, until I have

    proven the Cobra rotor doesnt need the Studebaker hub modified. I dont

    want anyone upset, I am also not a money hungry "vendor" like some

    have accused me of being.

    As soon as I receive my refund, I will buy the Cobra brakes and confirm

    the hub fitment. I am running on the assumption that they WILL fit due

    to the Ford using the SAME bolt circle, and the rotors slipping over the

    early Mustang drum brake hubs without modification.

    Things going against me lately: Wifes rebuilt transmission (2 years) took

    a dump on friday, my Camaro is running hot and was spewing coolant,

    water heater (story on this site), Impala running hot, Impala A/C not

    taking a charge, raccoons busting holes in the wood on the side of the

    portable jacuuzi, my Camaro has bald tires, her 78 project Camaro isnt

    getting done, 86 IROC needs work to sell, her laser eye surgery became

    blurry in the last month, her cat of 17 years is dying of liver failure

    IV fluids must be given, paralyzed kitten we found at my work needs to

    have a rear leg amputated, her pet rat died unexpectedly, did I mention

    my DSL??, and probably some other things I am forgetting.

    At any rate, I do not have the money to continue with the project for the

    time being, so those that are interested, bare with me. Sorry.


  4. 2.) Ordered a serpentine belt drive kit from GM. This will get rid of the old fan belt system, includes new water pump, alternator, P/S pump and A/C compressor. It will also move the A/C compressor from the drivers side to the passenger side of the engine, allowing me to get rid of about 10 feet of a/c hoses.

    All sounds great, but I am VERY confused about this one!! The LT1 will give you this

    exact setup (though the A/C compressor might not clear the frame), you could save

    the money and jump on that LT1 swap instead. Seems like an aweful lot of work to

    do when you plan on changing the engine anyway. :blink:


  5. You might try "JDP" over at the Studebaker forum, he seems to part out Avantis quite

    often and just purchased an Avanti off Ebay. I would bet that someone would want to

    take the existing frame if you dont want it. Also, Art Morrison makes a frame for the

    53 Studes, and the Avanti frame is "similar", though shorter .. and blah blah. ;)


    "John Poulos"



  6. Have the 400 on the stand ready for a refresh and a few mods. Trans was a 350 three spd. that someone swapped in before I got it, now it's a 200 R4 from a Buick Grand Sport with B&M mods, so it's pretty stout, not to mention the better gearing.

    Good luck with the project, I have just had really good luck with my LT1's, so I have a

    tendency to recommend them. ;) I dont remember reading that the 200 4R had better

    gearing then the 700 R4. The 700 is a 3.1 first, and a .8 OD. I have read that a well

    built 200 can be a good working trans, but the 700 is good out-of-the-box from 88 up.

    Just FYI for others reading this post.

    If anyone would feel better about it, I'll gladly take a couple hundred for the motor. Maybe it's easier to

    sell something than give it away.

    It is actually. Its a standard GM engine, so you might have more luck selling it in the

    local paper for 500 bucks, then giving it away here. :P


  7. These are the parts you get with the kit.

    Looks good. I didnt realize that the Avanti radiator was so 'square'. A dual

    fan kit wouldnt work too well. Looks like that one fits amazingly well!

    keep us posted! (my DSL is dead, so my responses are slow :blink: )


  8. Would anyone be interested in the engine out of my '83 ?? I'm currently in the process of replaceing it with a 400. It's an SBC 305, ran OK, odometer shows around 35,000 (?), just wanted a larger engine. Anyway if intersested, just reply and come get it. Toms River area NJ.

    If you havent bought the 400 yet, I would suggest an engine/trans from a 4th Gen F-body (Camaro/Firebird)

    its an LT1 with a 4L60E tran (the upgraded 4 speed auto). Yours is a TH700 R4 also correct? You have the

    early version, if so. That trans isnt going to last very long with the power of that 400. Just FYI. You might

    look for an 88 to 93 TH700R4 or 4L60 (no 'E').

    Also .. I will have a 305/350 tran from a 78 Camaro (left over from our LT1 install project) that can join your

    305 for some company, then it wont be lonely. ;)


  9. The shroud is very well made with two fan supports molded into its one piece design, a strong piece that shouldn't flex. ..... Looks easy to install, thermostat module allows you to wire into A/C so that fan comes on anytime A/C is on.

    Sure sounds like a quality kit, lots of options. So then it IS a dual fan setup, thats NICE!


  10. On our '82 my guess is that the A/C condenser inhibits air flow through the rad and it is difficult to get enough heat transfer without a strong puller fan.

    Could be .. I dont have A/C on the 63 (and its black). My Impala has two large fans, but a large engine

    compartment. My Camaro has two large fans, and NO room in the engine compartment. I wonder if its

    the dual fan setup that makes it work? Of course the fans are staged, so one comes on WITH the A/C

    and then the other comes on at a certain temp, and then BOTH come on at a max temp.


  11. There is no question that the mechanical fan adds clutter, robs Horsepower, and makes unwanted noise. We just couldn't seem to keep the engine cool without it.

    So weird ... I dont see WHY it couldnt be setup with the electric. I was wanting to

    go with a dual fan, staged, but even single, it should work. My Avanti is a mutant,

    as it runs at about 140-150. I dont know what the deal is, I also have a leaking

    core plug??? It takes forever to warm up, never shown the signs of running hot,

    so I have no reason to doubt the gauge. :blink:


  12. I found a new kit (part# FLX-180) from Flex-a-lite that should work fine. It includes a shroud, fan and controls. My radiator core measures 22x19 and this unit measures 21.5x17.5,

    Sounds NICE! I am VERY interested in the results. Is it a single or a dual fan? I also want to

    dump the mechanical power robbing ready to break off and fly into your radiator fan. ;)


  13. My '02 Avanti has BFG G-Force tires on it and they're very good tires as well. My intent for when they eventually require replacements is to buy Michelin Pilots for the car, though they are expensive, but in line with other makes of the same specs.

    You might want to check out those EVO-Z tires, your Avanti is the same car underneath

    as my wifes Camaro Z28, we got a set of the EVO-Z's for it as well, and she feels they

    are some of the best the have been on there. She drives her car VERY hard, so thats not

    the dizzy input of a "woman driver". Here is the link from the Impala site on the tire:


    Those Pilots ARE good tires, but they are WAY too expensive! I have 3 of them to put

    on our 78 Camaro 'G-machine' from the wrecked 94 Firebird, I priced the one tire to

    make a full set and was in SHOCK. It was MORE then half what I paid for the WHOLE

    set of 4 EVO-Z tires!! That was also through Tire Rack!

    The tires on the Impala are 275/40 R17. B)


  14. I did stop at the one in Santa Barbara and they were only interested in selling me some Cooper tires.... no thanks.

    I ran Cooper tires on my commuter cars for years, was very happy with them, I

    tried BF Goodrich, Sumitomo, and Yokohama and they were all bad for different

    reasons. The Yokohama started to come apart, the thread was separating, the

    Sumitomo was OK, but wore out fast, the BF Goodrich caused the car to wander

    all over the road. Nah, I would say Cooper is a good inexpensive tire, and when

    you compare them to the expensive tires I tried, they did well. I drive over 500

    miles a WEEK, so I get a lot of experience with them. Right now I am running

    EVO-Z tires made by Goodyear and the Kelly Tire name. Thay are knockoffs of

    the Goodyear Eagle F1 (a ~250 a piece tire). They have a 420 tread wear and

    are rated to 168 mph! I paid 400 for a set of 4. They dont carry anything small

    enough to fit a 15 inch rim though, got them at AFS (same place as Cobra wheels).



    So far I REALLY like them, they got rid of the wander, feel GOOD in the rain, and

    stick nicely on dry pavement. I hope the last as long as they say!


  15. I haven't decided what to replace the 5.0L with yet, I have the complete LT1 donor car in the back lot (totaled but driveline OK) and that would be my first choise. The big problem with any of the engine setups I want to install is EFI. How to modify the fuel tank to work, that's the hold up.

    I would say GO FOR IT! Most guys on the 2nd Gen Camaro site just use an inline fuel pump

    and the high pressure rated fuel line.



  16. Graet car! The '63 round headlight has always been my favorite. B)

    Thanks! It cleaned up nicely, I had no idea it would. Now the laquer paint

    is thinning, and it scratches SO easy! I would love to get a more durable

    paint job on it, and then there is the place on the pass rear fender thats

    now lifting, and there are strange defects appearing in the paint. From a

    few feet away it still looks good, thats good enough until I get the all the

    mechicals sorted out. Its bad practice when restoring a car to paint first. ;)


  17. I didn't want another unknown name jelly bean for a car, and the stares and comments let me know that I'm showing people that there was a time when cars had style.

    Its certainly better then one just rotting away in your garage, I didnt mean that in

    a negative or degrading way, I apologize if you took it that way. For me, its a

    reminder as to what chassis it has. I get confused as to when they switched to

    the GM chassis. I think that its a great combo really, there are more options for

    your platform then mine. The only real "downside" I saw with the Avanti II was

    the higher front end - which you solved. The Avanti was designed with a "rake".

    I thought it flowed nicely .. "MonteeAvantee" ... wasnt meant to be mean. ALL the

    other cars I have are GM, and I totally support the install of an LT1! B)


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