SBCA96
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Posts posted by SBCA96
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Did you contact the person I posted to you on your other thread?
Tom
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Thanks for the words of support, they do help.
We got the quote on the kittys leg amputation - 800 bucks. After telling a few people
at work here yesterday, I have already started getting donations, the first being a
check of a surprising amount. There still is kindness in the world, I guess thats the
"evening out" you speak of. This kitty was found by a fellow employee out in the back
behind our work, apparently thrown from a moving vehicle on the freeway behind.
Its back was broken, and rear legs paralysed. Surprisingly, its the most friendliest
cat you ever met, and its mood is happy and playful, not effected by its hardships.
Its truely an inspiration, something that I wish I was able to acheive.
Tom
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Very Very very very VERY nice!
Tom
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This is not a happy post for me to type.
Its been a rough year for me, until I get my tax refund, I dont have any
more money to "play". As many on here know, I have developed a
brake setup that can stop the engines you guys want to build, but I have
gone the opposite route - ground up. I have a decent engine that I can
build from the parts left from my 60 Hawk, but for me, brakes were the
starting point, whats the point in going fast, if you cant stop all that HP??
I got permission to make 4 sets of brackets from my work. I just DONT
have the money to get them made. I have ONE person that has actually
offered to send me a check for what I have found it will cost. I have been
holding back on sending him the info to send me the check, until I have
proven the Cobra rotor doesnt need the Studebaker hub modified. I dont
want anyone upset, I am also not a money hungry "vendor" like some
have accused me of being.
As soon as I receive my refund, I will buy the Cobra brakes and confirm
the hub fitment. I am running on the assumption that they WILL fit due
to the Ford using the SAME bolt circle, and the rotors slipping over the
early Mustang drum brake hubs without modification.
Things going against me lately: Wifes rebuilt transmission (2 years) took
a dump on friday, my Camaro is running hot and was spewing coolant,
water heater (story on this site), Impala running hot, Impala A/C not
taking a charge, raccoons busting holes in the wood on the side of the
portable jacuuzi, my Camaro has bald tires, her 78 project Camaro isnt
getting done, 86 IROC needs work to sell, her laser eye surgery became
blurry in the last month, her cat of 17 years is dying of liver failure
IV fluids must be given, paralyzed kitten we found at my work needs to
have a rear leg amputated, her pet rat died unexpectedly, did I mention
my DSL??, and probably some other things I am forgetting.
At any rate, I do not have the money to continue with the project for the
time being, so those that are interested, bare with me. Sorry.
Tom
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Not that confusing, I'm not planning to change the engine for awhile... Still not sure if I'll install a 350 or the LT1 yet, been watching the Chevy sites and learning the problems involved.
I can put you in contact with a guy I know who HAS an LT1 in a Monte ... if
that would help you. Also, try the 2nd gen Camaro website should apply:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=49
Tom
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2.) Ordered a serpentine belt drive kit from GM. This will get rid of the old fan belt system, includes new water pump, alternator, P/S pump and A/C compressor. It will also move the A/C compressor from the drivers side to the passenger side of the engine, allowing me to get rid of about 10 feet of a/c hoses.
All sounds great, but I am VERY confused about this one!! The LT1 will give you this
exact setup (though the A/C compressor might not clear the frame), you could save
the money and jump on that LT1 swap instead. Seems like an aweful lot of work to
do when you plan on changing the engine anyway.
Tom
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You might try "JDP" over at the Studebaker forum, he seems to part out Avantis quite
often and just purchased an Avanti off Ebay. I would bet that someone would want to
take the existing frame if you dont want it. Also, Art Morrison makes a frame for the
53 Studes, and the Avanti frame is "similar", though shorter .. and blah blah.
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_f...p?TOPIC_ID=3650
"John Poulos"
Tom
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Have the 400 on the stand ready for a refresh and a few mods. Trans was a 350 three spd. that someone swapped in before I got it, now it's a 200 R4 from a Buick Grand Sport with B&M mods, so it's pretty stout, not to mention the better gearing.
Good luck with the project, I have just had really good luck with my LT1's, so I have a
tendency to recommend them.
I dont remember reading that the 200 4R had bettergearing then the 700 R4. The 700 is a 3.1 first, and a .8 OD. I have read that a well
built 200 can be a good working trans, but the 700 is good out-of-the-box from 88 up.
Just FYI for others reading this post.
If anyone would feel better about it, I'll gladly take a couple hundred for the motor. Maybe it's easier tosell something than give it away.
It is actually. Its a standard GM engine, so you might have more luck selling it in the
local paper for 500 bucks, then giving it away here.
Tom
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Cool stuff!
Tom
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These are the parts you get with the kit.
Looks good. I didnt realize that the Avanti radiator was so 'square'. A dual
fan kit wouldnt work too well. Looks like that one fits amazingly well!
keep us posted! (my DSL is dead, so my responses are slow
)Tom
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Would anyone be interested in the engine out of my '83 ?? I'm currently in the process of replaceing it with a 400. It's an SBC 305, ran OK, odometer shows around 35,000 (?), just wanted a larger engine. Anyway if intersested, just reply and come get it. Toms River area NJ.
If you havent bought the 400 yet, I would suggest an engine/trans from a 4th Gen F-body (Camaro/Firebird)
its an LT1 with a 4L60E tran (the upgraded 4 speed auto). Yours is a TH700 R4 also correct? You have the
early version, if so. That trans isnt going to last very long with the power of that 400. Just FYI. You might
look for an 88 to 93 TH700R4 or 4L60 (no 'E').
Also .. I will have a 305/350 tran from a 78 Camaro (left over from our LT1 install project) that can join your
305 for some company, then it wont be lonely.
Tom
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The shroud is very well made with two fan supports molded into its one piece design, a strong piece that shouldn't flex. ..... Looks easy to install, thermostat module allows you to wire into A/C so that fan comes on anytime A/C is on.
Sure sounds like a quality kit, lots of options. So then it IS a dual fan setup, thats NICE!
Tom
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On our '82 my guess is that the A/C condenser inhibits air flow through the rad and it is difficult to get enough heat transfer without a strong puller fan.
Could be .. I dont have A/C on the 63 (and its black). My Impala has two large fans, but a large engine
compartment. My Camaro has two large fans, and NO room in the engine compartment. I wonder if its
the dual fan setup that makes it work? Of course the fans are staged, so one comes on WITH the A/C
and then the other comes on at a certain temp, and then BOTH come on at a max temp.
Tom
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There is no question that the mechanical fan adds clutter, robs Horsepower, and makes unwanted noise. We just couldn't seem to keep the engine cool without it.
So weird ... I dont see WHY it couldnt be setup with the electric. I was wanting to
go with a dual fan, staged, but even single, it should work. My Avanti is a mutant,
as it runs at about 140-150. I dont know what the deal is, I also have a leaking
core plug??? It takes forever to warm up, never shown the signs of running hot,
so I have no reason to doubt the gauge.
Tom
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I found a new kit (part# FLX-180) from Flex-a-lite that should work fine. It includes a shroud, fan and controls. My radiator core measures 22x19 and this unit measures 21.5x17.5,
Sounds NICE! I am VERY interested in the results. Is it a single or a dual fan? I also want to
dump the mechanical power robbing ready to break off and fly into your radiator fan.
Tom
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My '02 Avanti has BFG G-Force tires on it and they're very good tires as well. My intent for when they eventually require replacements is to buy Michelin Pilots for the car, though they are expensive, but in line with other makes of the same specs.
You might want to check out those EVO-Z tires, your Avanti is the same car underneath
as my wifes Camaro Z28, we got a set of the EVO-Z's for it as well, and she feels they
are some of the best the have been on there. She drives her car VERY hard, so thats not
the dizzy input of a "woman driver". Here is the link from the Impala site on the tire:
http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/forum2005...?TOPIC_ID=34473
Those Pilots ARE good tires, but they are WAY too expensive! I have 3 of them to put
on our 78 Camaro 'G-machine' from the wrecked 94 Firebird, I priced the one tire to
make a full set and was in SHOCK. It was MORE then half what I paid for the WHOLE
set of 4 EVO-Z tires!! That was also through Tire Rack!
The tires on the Impala are 275/40 R17.
Tom
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I wonder if those '63 headlights would look good on my '87.....
I am sure you could make them fit, but if I was going to go through that
much trouble, I would contact Avanti Motors, and buy the lights they are
using on the NEW Avanti instead .......... adapt those ... (minus the bump).
Tom
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I did stop at the one in Santa Barbara and they were only interested in selling me some Cooper tires.... no thanks.
I ran Cooper tires on my commuter cars for years, was very happy with them, I
tried BF Goodrich, Sumitomo, and Yokohama and they were all bad for different
reasons. The Yokohama started to come apart, the thread was separating, the
Sumitomo was OK, but wore out fast, the BF Goodrich caused the car to wander
all over the road. Nah, I would say Cooper is a good inexpensive tire, and when
you compare them to the expensive tires I tried, they did well. I drive over 500
miles a WEEK, so I get a lot of experience with them. Right now I am running
EVO-Z tires made by Goodyear and the Kelly Tire name. Thay are knockoffs of
the Goodyear Eagle F1 (a ~250 a piece tire). They have a 420 tread wear and
are rated to 168 mph! I paid 400 for a set of 4. They dont carry anything small
enough to fit a 15 inch rim though, got them at AFS (same place as Cobra wheels).
So far I REALLY like them, they got rid of the wander, feel GOOD in the rain, and
stick nicely on dry pavement. I hope the last as long as they say!
Tom
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I haven't decided what to replace the 5.0L with yet, I have the complete LT1 donor car in the back lot (totaled but driveline OK) and that would be my first choise. The big problem with any of the engine setups I want to install is EFI. How to modify the fuel tank to work, that's the hold up.
I would say GO FOR IT! Most guys on the 2nd Gen Camaro site just use an inline fuel pump
and the high pressure rated fuel line.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40481
Tom
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Graet car! The '63 round headlight has always been my favorite.
Thanks! It cleaned up nicely, I had no idea it would. Now the laquer paint
is thinning, and it scratches SO easy! I would love to get a more durable
paint job on it, and then there is the place on the pass rear fender thats
now lifting, and there are strange defects appearing in the paint. From a
few feet away it still looks good, thats good enough until I get the all the
mechicals sorted out. Its bad practice when restoring a car to paint first.
Tom
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I didn't want another unknown name jelly bean for a car, and the stares and comments let me know that I'm showing people that there was a time when cars had style.
Its certainly better then one just rotting away in your garage, I didnt mean that in
a negative or degrading way, I apologize if you took it that way. For me, its a
reminder as to what chassis it has. I get confused as to when they switched to
the GM chassis. I think that its a great combo really, there are more options for
your platform then mine. The only real "downside" I saw with the Avanti II was
the higher front end - which you solved. The Avanti was designed with a "rake".
I thought it flowed nicely .. "MonteeAvantee" ... wasnt meant to be mean. ALL the
other cars I have are GM, and I totally support the install of an LT1!
Tom
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I spent a few hours checking it out, perhaps my fooling around with the tail light wiring fixed the problem.
Cool .. at least its "fixed". Maybe you can make it over to In N Out with it and
there could be TWO Avantis there someday! That would be an event!
Tom
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I'll take a look, didn't realize there was anything needing a reply.
I guess there wasnt really ... I just didnt know if you read it!
Tom
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The SSBC calipers that I installed are aluminum.
Monteavanti!
In the pic at a glance, they didnt look aluminum ... my bad. Sorry about
the "Monteavanti" comment ... I just thought of it ... kinda flows ....
Tom
Mustang GT rear disc brake install process
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by SBCA96
Now on to the rear! I have not finished the install, the brakes function, but
I have not hooked up the parking brake. I originally installed the calipers
opposite to the 98 Mustang (forward of the rear axle) because it looked like
the factory parking brake cable would fit that way, but after getting it on
the car, it was obvious that they would work better in the factory location.
My plan is to use the factory cable, with a tube on the cable end to relieve
the jacket when the handle is pulled - we shall see!
The Ford rear disc calipers are bolted to a bracket which bolts to the rear
axle, so modifying this bracket is more simple then starting over. The center
hole was enlarged and a "break out" was created so that the bracket could be
mounted to the back of the axle flange.
Setting up the rear hubs is the same as the front, except the diameter inside
the rear disc is larger then the front, so the hub doesnt need to be machined.
As with the front, the longer wheel studs with shoulders were pressed in. The
holes in the disc were drilled out, as with the front discs.
The following pictures show the brackets on the wrong sides, though the way
they mount either side is the same. The error was explained above. These
pictures came out too good to not use - you get the idea. Here is the 'new'
bracket mounted on the backside of the axle flange:
Then you put the drilled rotor onto the new wheel studs:
Thread on the lug nuts:
And then tighten the lugs down evenly to "draw" the rotor onto the shoulders
of the wheel studs. After you do this, the rotor should stay there, or you
can leave the lugs on until the caliper is on. Once the caliper is hooked up
and the pedal has been pushed, the caliper will self align, and the pads will
hold the rotor in place while the tire assembly is off. To remove the rotor
from the hub takes a sharp blow from a rubber mallet.
Once this is completed, its a matter of following the instructions in the
Haynes manual for a 98 Mustang GT. You bolt on the caliper mount bracket:
Slide the pads into the mount bracket, & then put the caliper over the pads:
I bought new hoses for a 98 Mustang GT from Autozone, the hoses have brackets
as part of the hose assembly. The Avanti has a welded on bracket for the
rear swaybar. There is a hole that is unused. This was a perfect place to
mount the hose bracket. The length of your shocks should be checked to make
sure that when the axle is hanging, there isnt any strain on the hoses:
The passenger side hose assembly has a dual block, I decided to use this as
a splitter, and run the center metal line out to here, and then bend a new
line to cross back over to the drivers rear. There is more then one way to
go about doing this. I just didnt want to stick with the Stude rubber line,
since its not going to get easier to find. I am glad I replaced it, after I
had a chance to inspect it, I found that it was rubbing against SOMETHING.
The combination of the front & rear set, makes for a balanced factory system.
I have also found that the front Cobra setup is balanced to the GT rear. It
was relayed to me from a Ford parts supplier that "no one ever needs to add
a proportioning valve when upgrading to the Cobra front, from GT front, on a
GT Mustang". Thats good news for part 3, which will happen right after I get
my tax refund! I plan on zinc plated cross drilled and slotted 13 inch rotors
front with 'PBR' aluminum 2 piston Cobra calipers, and matching zinc plated
drilled and slotted rear rotors for the rear.
Tom