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Posts posted by SBCA96

  1. B) which master cylinder did you use? their seems to be several mention. john

    I found this today ... I think that this is the master I used, I was looking at it

    now that I have the 4 wheel discs on, and its looking kinda "icky" after being

    on there for over 10 years. I think I will stop by Autozone and buy a new

    master cylinder to be ready for my Cobra brakes which I will order soon.


    "Here is what you will need. 1 ea. NAPA/United master cylinder 36307 (or Bendix 11515; this unit fits a

    variety of '71-'75 Mopars, but a specific model to nail it to is a '71 Dodge Polara, 360 ci V-8)"

    I also solved the design issue of the lower caliper bolt, rotating the caliper up

    about 10 degrees from where I originally put it, now makes both bolts easily

    accessible. The only drawback, is that the metal part of the brake line needs

    to be bent inward and away from the upper a-arm - a task easily done by hand.

    I also found I did something amazingly stupid, after all that cool design work,

    I used caliper mounting bolts that were too long, and they made a nice groove

    on the inside of the rotor! Now, its not a huge deal, since the reason I GOT the

    brakes for free, is that the rotors were worn out and needed replacement. I

    went to Autozone and picked up two new rotors, and a pad set. The GT rotors

    are 25 dollars a piece, and the pads were only 15 bucks. :DB)


  2. :) Just got my new AOIA Mag. Inside the front cover is the new one. Looks really great. makes me wish I could afford one.cbk

    You are refering to the Avanti Avanti, not that XUV thing right? I think that overall

    they did pretty good on the new Avanti, not sure about the Ford running gear, but

    its on the right track. Did they use my advice and use the 03 Cobra wheels on it??

    Hey! My article is in this one I think!!


  3. Front rotors are stock size. The big difference is the 11" is by SSBC Brakes and the others are from Baer Brakes, I'll probably go with best setup.

    I just meant there isnt any reason to go 13" on the rear if you have 11" on the front. ;)

    I'm not in a rush to junk the 5.0L yet, so the LT1 upgrade is on hold

    Thats too bad ... I have grown to LOVE the LT1! Long lasting POWERFUL engine. The downside is that

    there is more stuff to go along with it, computer, high output pump .. etc ...


  4. 1.) Rear disc brakes - have 2 different systems available in 11", 12" or 13" rotors.

    Would depend on the size of the front rotors. Did you increase the size of the front rotors when you

    put the drilled and slotted rotors and 2 piston calipers on? Mustang GT uses 11 front and 11 rear.

    The rear only does like 30% of stopping, so unless you plan on really doing a lot of repeated stops

    I would just get the 11 inch rear. Thats what I will be staying with on my brake conversion, even

    with the 13 inch front Cobra rotors and 2 piston calipers.

    2.) Serpentine belt drive - GM Performance offers a complete bolt on system, it would also switch the alternator with the A/C compressor moving it to the passenger side of the engine. Would really clean up the engine compartment.

    Worth while only for cleaning up the engine compartment, I dont think you are going to see any

    performance increase. Arent you considering an LT1 upgrade? If so, forget this upgrade.

    3.) Remove belt driven fan and install electric fan system - Current system makes alot of noise, would love to get the noise down to the gentle wind blowing by the window seals. :D

    Worth while, and a nice improvement, it will help your car warm up faster, and will only work when

    its needed, not all the time. Other benefits include no big steel fan to fly through your hard to find

    hood or radiator! Should also be good for a few extra Hp.

    4.) Vintage Air heating and cooling system - I have never seen a bigger mess then the cobbled up heating and cooling system in this car. Well... the wiring comes close. :lol:

    There are simple upgrades to change to R134a, costing 1000s less. Also, if you go with the LT1,

    you will have to do this all over again.


  5. I've been running the new wheels and tires for a few days now, 16x7 wheels and P225/60R16 Yokohama AVS db tires, I'm very happy with the handling and RIDE improvement. I wasn't expecting a better ride.

    The right setup yeilds nice results. I am running 17x9 stock Impala rims on my Impala with 275/40 tires,

    and the ride is amazingly nice.


  6. I am trying to put together a first run of 8 sets to be sold. With

    the cost of material, and unfortunately not being able to do the work

    machining the adapters myself, my overhead is high. If I do offer

    these, its NOT going to allow me to quit my job.[;)] The Cobra brake

    setup requires 17 inch rims, that might be a problem for some people.

    The GT brake setup can all be bought from Autozone, BUT they require

    the machining of the hubs. Since the person buying the kit HAS the

    hubs, thats an operation that "he" must have done, that creates a bit

    of a problem (I have been doing a LOT of thinking on this). So the

    Cobra kit would be an easier install, but would require larger wheels

    and "rubber band tires". To me this is a GOOD thing. I have priced

    the rest of the Cobra kit online, and its just shy of $500 for all

    the parts (thats AFTER the adapter). This will get you :

    Two Aluminum 2 piston "PBR" Calipers in black (Mach 1/Cobra) w/pads

    Two 13 inch zinc coated cross drilled and slotted rotors

    Two stainless steel high pressure braided brake hoses

    These are all new parts, the price I mention includes shipping inside

    California (outside would be more obviously) and tax.

    If we go with the GT setup on the other end of the spectrum, Autozone

    carries EVERYTHING, and it would be roughly 225.00 including tax for :

    Two Reman Calipers (they have yellow or red for more)

    Two new 11 inch vented rotors

    One metallic brake pad set

    Two rubber brake lines

    My inital calculations are looking like 150 to 250 for the 4 required

    brackets, thats the two billet 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum caliper

    mounting brackets (which weigh under 2 pounds each), and the two steel

    hose mounting brackets.

    So if you look at the extreme end of the "factory" brakes, thats about

    $750 MAX total for some awesome brakes, if I my costs for the bracket

    hit the high end of my estimate. Thats 100 more then Steeltech, but

    its also a LOT more brakes, easier to find replacement parts, simple

    upgradability to even 14 inch and 8 piston calipers. On the cheap end

    thats $475 total for the GT brakes with the high estimate for the

    brackets, yet still gives you the ability to upgrade later to Cobra

    brakes, since the brackets fit either caliper.

    Either setup requires the Napa wheel studs at 2 bucks a piece.

    I plan on taking this Avanti to a road course track eventually, so I

    want brakes that will stop it, lots of early Mustang guys are using

    the 13" Cobra brakes on their cars. They look great and stop great. I

    see them as a MUST if you are going for this look.


  7. http://www.avantipowerboats.com/

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  8. It looks like the brake lines that run from the frame to the caliper in the front need replacement. Is there a replacement for the Wagner line that I can get from NAPA or one of the other parts stores?

    They wont have the actual prebent piece, but its a standard inverted flare. 3/8 if memory serves. You

    are best to remove the old piece, then measure it, and buy a piece a similar length. You might have to

    go a little longer then factory. Also, if the front needs replacement, chances are the line to the rear is

    also in sorry shape. Make sure you inspect the rubber hose from the frame to axle. Mine was worn in

    a BAD way .. and was close to leaking.


  9. OK, so I have had my Avanti for over 12 years, and the other night

    my friend looks at it and says, "one of your turn signals is bigger".

    Sure enough, one of my turn signals IS bigger! The drivers side

    turn signal is larger then the passenger side.

    Drivers is 6 3/8 inches tall

    Passenger is 5 5/8 inches tall

    Drivers has on the lense "64 STU-1" top and "SAE DP 64 (S)" bottom

    Passengers has "63 RQ DP" top and "SAE DP 62" bottom

    What gives?? I am assuming that in 64 they increased the side of

    the turn signals? I knew that the fender had been damaged and it

    was repaired, but I guess they used a 64 fender! Good thing they

    didnt decide to use one square headlight and one round also!!


  10. It has an electrical leak that drains the battery (a lingering issue possibly stemming from a serious engine harness meltdown that I tried to repair before it got stored... I may have missed something)

    I have a volt meter, I think that a test light works better.

    I need to finish the job of converting the back up lights to tail lights (started before the storage, but never completed)

    I was looking into the LED inserts......

    check out the brakes

    Man ... I have seen SO much brakes lately! :blink:

    get the tranny serviced

    Goleta Transmission on Aero Camino ... down from Specialty Tool.

    replace the broken dipstick (had one somewhere, can't find it)

    Stupid dipstick! .......... no .. the dipstick .. not you! :P


    give the leather some TLC


    wax the car


    replace the aged tires

    Big Brand Tire, in Goleta talk to Gary, but listen closely he talks VERY fast!


    Rant: As usual, when working on ................. . Arrrgghh!!!

    SAY IT LOUD ... SAY IT PROUD! I agree.

    Tom, the underside of my 71 is pretty grungy... do you know of anyplace I can get it cleaned?

    There used to be...

    Due to environmental concerns and lot of places stopped doing that. I dont know if I can

    help you there, try calling around.

    the engine harness meltdown was caused by the wire harness being routed too close around the hood latch on the passenger side...

    I hate doing wiring, its my second least favorite thing - after brakes. :P;)


  11. Just curious, could you use one of the universal mandrel bend exhaust kits offered by Summit?

    Probably ... but .. it would be more work. I think that at the very least I will

    get a Silvertone 2 1/4 exhaust

    Keep the Impala SS. I have the Impala SS in a tuxedo, namely a '95 Fleetwood, with SS springs, HO sway bars and some other upgrades.

    I consider my '81 Avanti the old man's Camaro.

    yah .. I enjoy it .. I was trying to get my father-in-law to get a 94-96 Fleetwood.


  12. SBCA96, I saw your latest post on the 63-64 forum. You have an Impala SS, too? (I know you said your Dad has one, but I didn't recall your saying you did)

    Yes, I have an Impala SS (clone). I have too many cars, or is that possible? I bought it a

    few years ago now. Its an exCHP Caprice 9C1, which is what the Impala was based on.

    It has the Vette motor and 4 wheel disc. Over the Impala, its got extra coolers on the

    trans and engine, and power steering too! I bought it from a guy who was converting it

    to an "ethnic" Impala SS. He had got the entire Impala SS interior (rare and expensive),

    but had funky rims and a cheesy airbag suspension on it. I had him convert it back to

    springs and bought it. Over the last few years I have completed it into an Impala, with

    the correct width rear axle (Impala got a special wider axle), Impala rims and other details

    that he had missed. Its got 209,000 miles on it and runs like a top. Did you know that a

    stock Impala SS can beat a 2002 Nissan Maxima through the slalom AND in 60 to 0? It

    goes without saying it beats it in 0-60, I find it amazing that a 4200 pound car can take

    on a little nimble Japanese sport sedan. So my dad has a real Impala SS and a "fake"

    Avanti (a II to look like a Studebaker), and I have a real Stude Avanti and a fake Impala. ;)

    Great progress on your Avanti, where/when is the show? Lompoc? Or do you mean Wheels & Waves?

    Thanks, its coming along all right. Took the fuel return line off today, so I can measure

    it and replace it. Its amazing, I think it was replaced back in the mid 80's, it has a hose

    on part of it, too good a shape to be original, and under the hose its NOT rusted. That

    means that all that rust happened AFTER it was restored?? DANG!

    The show is in Lompoc, put on by the Lompoc PD and Andy Granatelli.




    You would think that with Andy involved, I would have WON my division!!

    Come on down and help me get my '71 back on the road.... I finally got it out of long-term storage and it runs and looks great (only moved it a few feet so far)

    I have a lot on my plate right now, but if you have a specific issue, I can come by during

    the week sometime after work.


  13. Today I bled the brakes again, and went for a drive. The black Avanti was turning

    heads around town with the new rims obviously making quite an impression. I went

    by to drop off a hub puller that I had borrowed to put the rear discs on, and just

    did some cruising. With the infinately better brakes, I feel more safe tooling up

    and down the roads. The old brakes were so bad, that it was kinda worrysome if

    it would stop the next time I hit them! The 3 spd trans has GOT to go, but it gets

    the job done for now (barely). I have SUCH a renewed interest in the car now. If

    I had not got the new rims, I might have sold it. I was actually toying with the idea

    of selling the Avanti, Camaro Z28 AND the Impala SS, and getting a new GTO. I am

    glad that I didnt, and with the brake project getting close to finished (still need to

    put on the 13 inch zinc plated cross drilled and slotted rotors with the aluminum 2

    piston calipers) I can focus more on the exhaust. I need to replace it, and do

    the bumpers before the show this year. The exhaust is in VERY sorry condition,

    not just in the rust scale, but the quality of the bends, each bend is terribly

    crimped & VERY restictive. The bumpers need to be rechromed, the rear is peeling.

    I think that with the new rims/tires, the 4 wheel disc brakes, rechromed bumpers,

    paint fixed on the pass rear fender, and a new exhaust, I should be able to WIN at

    this next years Police sponsored car show. 2 years ago I lost to a '50 4 door

    that was a complete restoration, nice car, but still. Last year I lost to a 61

    Lark wagon! An Avanti losing to a Wagon! NO! This is why things needed to be

    happening this year. I have done MORE work on the car since the car show, then in

    the last 12 years or so I have had the car.

    So with the response that I got today with potential whiplash receipients, I can

    pretty much assume that I will get a better pull on the popular vote.


  14. The tech. advisor at Edelbrock just told me they do not recommend their carbs for a supercharged system. Therfore no help from them on getting the right carb for the change. 1963 R2 Carb adjustment advice?

    Strange, What if the carb is IN a pressureized box? Still no go? I bet they are worried about

    the liability of it popping the top. Of course, you are not running the boost that they run in

    the NEW cars, let only anything that might pop the top off the Edelbrock. I think that Studes

    are lucky to hit 7 PSI on a good day. Thats chicken feed compared to the new Mustang Cobra.

    My guess is some yahoo sued them. The Edelbrock card is a straight over slight redesign to

    the Carter thats on your Avanti. I say buy the 600 cfm, swap the tops and call it good then.

    I was running a 600 cfm on my "R3" inspired 289 Hawk motor, NICE carb!


  15. Second time to visit the site. Having trouble finding older answers to my questions, so I'm hunting fresh replies. I have only had my new 1963 R2 for one week. Last owner said I might change out the carb for easier starting.

    The Edelbrock is a great carb, and you will be happy with it, BUT its not a direct "bolt in"

    as the airhorn is considerable larger. I have heard about some swapping the tops on

    the carbs to solve that problem. Since you have a blower, you NEED to have the right

    size carb airhorn, or contact Paxton for a bonnet that fits an Edelbrock. Also the linkage

    is a little different. You can see about getting an 'R3' box for the carb also.


  16. The only real problem I saw was that the A/C compressor would hit the frame, but I found an A/C bracket kit that moves the compressor to the drivers side of the engine.

    Yes, that IS the single biggest problem, the other being the exhaust manifolds. The heads

    are a "D" port, your current engine is most likely a "square" port. The location that the

    manifold "dumps" on the LT1 is different then most early SBC apparently.

    What A/C bracket did you decide to go with? The Corvette one has been discontinued,

    and the aftermarket one I found was close to 1000 bucks!


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