SBCA96
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Posts posted by SBCA96
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it's apparently the one of choice for the Avanti guys
Avanti guys are weird!
Tom
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Just got my new AOIA Mag. Inside the front cover is the new one. Looks really great. makes me wish I could afford one.cbk
You are refering to the Avanti Avanti, not that XUV thing right? I think that overall
they did pretty good on the new Avanti, not sure about the Ford running gear, but
its on the right track. Did they use my advice and use the 03 Cobra wheels on it??
Hey! My article is in this one I think!!
Tom
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Yes, unfortunately, this site is fairly dead; the Yahoo Avanti site is a good one; I'm surprised more of the Avanti people don't post on this one.
Sounds like YOU need to do some recruiting! Bring Um over here Gman!!
Tom
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Front rotors are stock size. The big difference is the 11" is by SSBC Brakes and the others are from Baer Brakes, I'll probably go with best setup.
I just meant there isnt any reason to go 13" on the rear if you have 11" on the front.
I'm not in a rush to junk the 5.0L yet, so the LT1 upgrade is on holdThats too bad ... I have grown to LOVE the LT1! Long lasting POWERFUL engine. The downside is that
there is more stuff to go along with it, computer, high output pump .. etc ...
Tom
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1.) Rear disc brakes - have 2 different systems available in 11", 12" or 13" rotors.
Would depend on the size of the front rotors. Did you increase the size of the front rotors when you
put the drilled and slotted rotors and 2 piston calipers on? Mustang GT uses 11 front and 11 rear.
The rear only does like 30% of stopping, so unless you plan on really doing a lot of repeated stops
I would just get the 11 inch rear. Thats what I will be staying with on my brake conversion, even
with the 13 inch front Cobra rotors and 2 piston calipers.
2.) Serpentine belt drive - GM Performance offers a complete bolt on system, it would also switch the alternator with the A/C compressor moving it to the passenger side of the engine. Would really clean up the engine compartment.Worth while only for cleaning up the engine compartment, I dont think you are going to see any
performance increase. Arent you considering an LT1 upgrade? If so, forget this upgrade.
3.) Remove belt driven fan and install electric fan system - Current system makes alot of noise, would love to get the noise down to the gentle wind blowing by the window seals.Worth while, and a nice improvement, it will help your car warm up faster, and will only work when
its needed, not all the time. Other benefits include no big steel fan to fly through your hard to find
hood or radiator! Should also be good for a few extra Hp.
4.) Vintage Air heating and cooling system - I have never seen a bigger mess then the cobbled up heating and cooling system in this car. Well... the wiring comes close.There are simple upgrades to change to R134a, costing 1000s less. Also, if you go with the LT1,
you will have to do this all over again.
Tom
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I've been running the new wheels and tires for a few days now, 16x7 wheels and P225/60R16 Yokohama AVS db tires, I'm very happy with the handling and RIDE improvement. I wasn't expecting a better ride.
The right setup yeilds nice results. I am running 17x9 stock Impala rims on my Impala with 275/40 tires,
and the ride is amazingly nice.
Tom
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I am trying to put together a first run of 8 sets to be sold. With
the cost of material, and unfortunately not being able to do the work
machining the adapters myself, my overhead is high. If I do offer
these, its NOT going to allow me to quit my job.[] The Cobra brake
setup requires 17 inch rims, that might be a problem for some people.
The GT brake setup can all be bought from Autozone, BUT they require
the machining of the hubs. Since the person buying the kit HAS the
hubs, thats an operation that "he" must have done, that creates a bit
of a problem (I have been doing a LOT of thinking on this). So the
Cobra kit would be an easier install, but would require larger wheels
and "rubber band tires". To me this is a GOOD thing. I have priced
the rest of the Cobra kit online, and its just shy of $500 for all
the parts (thats AFTER the adapter). This will get you :
Two Aluminum 2 piston "PBR" Calipers in black (Mach 1/Cobra) w/pads
Two 13 inch zinc coated cross drilled and slotted rotors
Two stainless steel high pressure braided brake hoses
These are all new parts, the price I mention includes shipping inside
California (outside would be more obviously) and tax.
If we go with the GT setup on the other end of the spectrum, Autozone
carries EVERYTHING, and it would be roughly 225.00 including tax for :
Two Reman Calipers (they have yellow or red for more)
Two new 11 inch vented rotors
One metallic brake pad set
Two rubber brake lines
My inital calculations are looking like 150 to 250 for the 4 required
brackets, thats the two billet 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum caliper
mounting brackets (which weigh under 2 pounds each), and the two steel
hose mounting brackets.
So if you look at the extreme end of the "factory" brakes, thats about
$750 MAX total for some awesome brakes, if I my costs for the bracket
hit the high end of my estimate. Thats 100 more then Steeltech, but
its also a LOT more brakes, easier to find replacement parts, simple
upgradability to even 14 inch and 8 piston calipers. On the cheap end
thats $475 total for the GT brakes with the high estimate for the
brackets, yet still gives you the ability to upgrade later to Cobra
brakes, since the brackets fit either caliper.
Either setup requires the Napa wheel studs at 2 bucks a piece.
I plan on taking this Avanti to a road course track eventually, so I
want brakes that will stop it, lots of early Mustang guys are using
the 13" Cobra brakes on their cars. They look great and stop great. I
see them as a MUST if you are going for this look.
Tom
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http://www.avantipowerboats.com/
Avanti Powerboats has been manufacturing high performance power boats, under the name "Avanti", for over twenty years. We currently have five different models in our line-up, from 22 feet up to 39 feet in length. Over the years, our boats have been well proven and widely accepted as one of the top performance boat lines in the marine industry. Avanti has been two time consecutive National High Points Champions in the Factory division of the US Offshore Racing Association. In every area of Avanti, from philosophy to design through construction, creating the very best in boating is the primary goal. Avanti is a low volume custom powerboat manufacturer. Every boat is assembled by hand, the achievement of many weeks of dedicated craftsmanship, with the use of only the finest materials, to create the perfect powerboat. Our commitment to building boats of outstanding quality and lasting value has earned Avanti the reputation as one of the most well respected manufacturers in the boating industry.Aside from manufacturing, many other services are offered by Avanti to cover all of your service needs. As a Mercury Marine OEM we are authorized to perform warranty repair on any Mercury product. As high performance specialists, we can perform virtually any performance upgrade to your boat. Other services we offer are complete boat refurbishing, hauling, winterization and storage. When you are interested in selling your boat, it can be brokered through Avanti Powerboats.
Tom
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If you grind off the high spots of the nut and round them off they fit perfect
Make sure you dont get any of the grinding material inside the hose! Or that
12 dollar hose will cost you thousands.
Tom
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I'm having trouble gettting into the trunk of my 63.
I posted a reply to this on the SDC forum.
Tom
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I've found a source for NOS pieces..but does anyone have instructions on how to do it and where to place the bag?
I have that strange medical bag looking thing on my Avanti - passenger inner fender.
Tom
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It looks like the brake lines that run from the frame to the caliper in the front need replacement. Is there a replacement for the Wagner line that I can get from NAPA or one of the other parts stores?
They wont have the actual prebent piece, but its a standard inverted flare. 3/8 if memory serves. You
are best to remove the old piece, then measure it, and buy a piece a similar length. You might have to
go a little longer then factory. Also, if the front needs replacement, chances are the line to the rear is
also in sorry shape. Make sure you inspect the rubber hose from the frame to axle. Mine was worn in
a BAD way .. and was close to leaking.
Tom
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A mechanic I know that works by himself uses a 12 volt buzzer that he picked up at Radio Shack to check for battery drains, He connects it between the battery and positive cable, then pulls fuses until the buzzer stops making noise.
Sounds like a pretty good idea. Of course, my '60 Hawk had only one fuse I think.
Tom
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OK, so I have had my Avanti for over 12 years, and the other night
my friend looks at it and says, "one of your turn signals is bigger".
Sure enough, one of my turn signals IS bigger! The drivers side
turn signal is larger then the passenger side.
Drivers is 6 3/8 inches tall
Passenger is 5 5/8 inches tall
Drivers has on the lense "64 STU-1" top and "SAE DP 64 (S)" bottom
Passengers has "63 RQ DP" top and "SAE DP 62" bottom
What gives?? I am assuming that in 64 they increased the side of
the turn signals? I knew that the fender had been damaged and it
was repaired, but I guess they used a 64 fender! Good thing they
didnt decide to use one square headlight and one round also!!
Tom
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It has an electrical leak that drains the battery (a lingering issue possibly stemming from a serious engine harness meltdown that I tried to repair before it got stored... I may have missed something)
I have a volt meter, I think that a test light works better.
I need to finish the job of converting the back up lights to tail lights (started before the storage, but never completed)I was looking into the LED inserts......
check out the brakesMan ... I have seen SO much brakes lately!
get the tranny servicedGoleta Transmission on Aero Camino ... down from Specialty Tool.
replace the broken dipstick (had one somewhere, can't find it)Stupid dipstick! .......... no .. the dipstick .. not you!
Tom
give the leather some TLCwax the carreplace the aged tiresBig Brand Tire, in Goleta talk to Gary, but listen closely he talks VERY fast!
Rant: As usual, when working on ................. . Arrrgghh!!!SAY IT LOUD ... SAY IT PROUD! I agree.
Tom, the underside of my 71 is pretty grungy... do you know of anyplace I can get it cleaned?There used to be...
Due to environmental concerns and lot of places stopped doing that. I dont know if I can
help you there, try calling around.
the engine harness meltdown was caused by the wire harness being routed too close around the hood latch on the passenger side...I hate doing wiring, its my second least favorite thing - after brakes.
Tom
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I'm the guy in Switzerland, which Mustang brakes did you put on?
Pls. let me know, thanks
Hi guy in Switzerland .... I apologize, do I know you? There is a previous post I
made on the forum that even covers the installation. 94-04 Mustang GT and Cobra.
http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=345
http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=387
Tom
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Just curious, could you use one of the universal mandrel bend exhaust kits offered by Summit?
Probably ... but .. it would be more work. I think that at the very least I will
get a Silvertone 2 1/4 exhaust
Keep the Impala SS. I have the Impala SS in a tuxedo, namely a '95 Fleetwood, with SS springs, HO sway bars and some other upgrades.I consider my '81 Avanti the old man's Camaro.
yah .. I enjoy it .. I was trying to get my father-in-law to get a 94-96 Fleetwood.
Tom
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SBCA96, I saw your latest post on the 63-64 forum. You have an Impala SS, too? (I know you said your Dad has one, but I didn't recall your saying you did)
Yes, I have an Impala SS (clone). I have too many cars, or is that possible? I bought it a
few years ago now. Its an exCHP Caprice 9C1, which is what the Impala was based on.
It has the Vette motor and 4 wheel disc. Over the Impala, its got extra coolers on the
trans and engine, and power steering too! I bought it from a guy who was converting it
to an "ethnic" Impala SS. He had got the entire Impala SS interior (rare and expensive),
but had funky rims and a cheesy airbag suspension on it. I had him convert it back to
springs and bought it. Over the last few years I have completed it into an Impala, with
the correct width rear axle (Impala got a special wider axle), Impala rims and other details
that he had missed. Its got 209,000 miles on it and runs like a top. Did you know that a
stock Impala SS can beat a 2002 Nissan Maxima through the slalom AND in 60 to 0? It
goes without saying it beats it in 0-60, I find it amazing that a 4200 pound car can take
on a little nimble Japanese sport sedan. So my dad has a real Impala SS and a "fake"
Avanti (a II to look like a Studebaker), and I have a real Stude Avanti and a fake Impala.
Great progress on your Avanti, where/when is the show? Lompoc? Or do you mean Wheels & Waves?Thanks, its coming along all right. Took the fuel return line off today, so I can measure
it and replace it. Its amazing, I think it was replaced back in the mid 80's, it has a hose
on part of it, too good a shape to be original, and under the hose its NOT rusted. That
means that all that rust happened AFTER it was restored?? DANG!
The show is in Lompoc, put on by the Lompoc PD and Andy Granatelli.
http://www.ci.lompoc.ca.us/departments/police/05carshow.htm
http://www.ci.lompoc.ca.us/departments/police/05carshow2.htm
http://www.lompocrecord.com/articles/2005/...news/news06.txt
You would think that with Andy involved, I would have WON my division!!
Come on down and help me get my '71 back on the road.... I finally got it out of long-term storage and it runs and looks great (only moved it a few feet so far)I have a lot on my plate right now, but if you have a specific issue, I can come by during
the week sometime after work.
Tom
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Today I bled the brakes again, and went for a drive. The black Avanti was turning
heads around town with the new rims obviously making quite an impression. I went
by to drop off a hub puller that I had borrowed to put the rear discs on, and just
did some cruising. With the infinately better brakes, I feel more safe tooling up
and down the roads. The old brakes were so bad, that it was kinda worrysome if
it would stop the next time I hit them! The 3 spd trans has GOT to go, but it gets
the job done for now (barely). I have SUCH a renewed interest in the car now. If
I had not got the new rims, I might have sold it. I was actually toying with the idea
of selling the Avanti, Camaro Z28 AND the Impala SS, and getting a new GTO. I am
glad that I didnt, and with the brake project getting close to finished (still need to
put on the 13 inch zinc plated cross drilled and slotted rotors with the aluminum 2
piston calipers) I can focus more on the exhaust. I need to replace it, and do
the bumpers before the show this year. The exhaust is in VERY sorry condition,
not just in the rust scale, but the quality of the bends, each bend is terribly
crimped & VERY restictive. The bumpers need to be rechromed, the rear is peeling.
I think that with the new rims/tires, the 4 wheel disc brakes, rechromed bumpers,
paint fixed on the pass rear fender, and a new exhaust, I should be able to WIN at
this next years Police sponsored car show. 2 years ago I lost to a '50 4 door
that was a complete restoration, nice car, but still. Last year I lost to a 61
Lark wagon! An Avanti losing to a Wagon! NO! This is why things needed to be
happening this year. I have done MORE work on the car since the car show, then in
the last 12 years or so I have had the car.
So with the response that I got today with potential whiplash receipients, I can
pretty much assume that I will get a better pull on the popular vote.
Tom
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http://racingstudebakers.com/stl-web/bulle...410a441aaadd413
Take a look there ... might be some help.
Tom
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The tech. advisor at Edelbrock just told me they do not recommend their carbs for a supercharged system. Therfore no help from them on getting the right carb for the change. 1963 R2 Carb adjustment advice?
Strange, What if the carb is IN a pressureized box? Still no go? I bet they are worried about
the liability of it popping the top. Of course, you are not running the boost that they run in
the NEW cars, let only anything that might pop the top off the Edelbrock. I think that Studes
are lucky to hit 7 PSI on a good day. Thats chicken feed compared to the new Mustang Cobra.
My guess is some yahoo sued them. The Edelbrock card is a straight over slight redesign to
the Carter thats on your Avanti. I say buy the 600 cfm, swap the tops and call it good then.
I was running a 600 cfm on my "R3" inspired 289 Hawk motor, NICE carb!
Tom
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Its not the body that it is close to rubbing, they added a plastic inner fender shirt that comes down and attaches to the frame. The tire comes within 1/2" from it.
I wonder if you can remove the skirt ... OR modify it?
Tom
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Second time to visit the site. Having trouble finding older answers to my questions, so I'm hunting fresh replies. I have only had my new 1963 R2 for one week. Last owner said I might change out the carb for easier starting.
The Edelbrock is a great carb, and you will be happy with it, BUT its not a direct "bolt in"
as the airhorn is considerable larger. I have heard about some swapping the tops on
the carbs to solve that problem. Since you have a blower, you NEED to have the right
size carb airhorn, or contact Paxton for a bonnet that fits an Edelbrock. Also the linkage
is a little different. You can see about getting an 'R3' box for the carb also.
Tom
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The only real problem I saw was that the A/C compressor would hit the frame, but I found an A/C bracket kit that moves the compressor to the drivers side of the engine.
Yes, that IS the single biggest problem, the other being the exhaust manifolds. The heads
are a "D" port, your current engine is most likely a "square" port. The location that the
manifold "dumps" on the LT1 is different then most early SBC apparently.
What A/C bracket did you decide to go with? The Corvette one has been discontinued,
and the aftermarket one I found was close to 1000 bucks!
Tom
Mustang GT brakes on my Avanti?? Hummmm
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
I found this today ... I think that this is the master I used, I was looking at it
now that I have the 4 wheel discs on, and its looking kinda "icky" after being
on there for over 10 years. I think I will stop by Autozone and buy a new
master cylinder to be ready for my Cobra brakes which I will order soon.
http://patriot.net/~jonroq/Text/AvantidualmcSG.txt
"Here is what you will need. 1 ea. NAPA/United master cylinder 36307 (or Bendix 11515; this unit fits a
variety of '71-'75 Mopars, but a specific model to nail it to is a '71 Dodge Polara, 360 ci V-8)"
I also solved the design issue of the lower caliper bolt, rotating the caliper up
about 10 degrees from where I originally put it, now makes both bolts easily
accessible. The only drawback, is that the metal part of the brake line needs
to be bent inward and away from the upper a-arm - a task easily done by hand.
I also found I did something amazingly stupid, after all that cool design work,
I used caliper mounting bolts that were too long, and they made a nice groove
on the inside of the rotor! Now, its not a huge deal, since the reason I GOT the
brakes for free, is that the rotors were worn out and needed replacement. I
went to Autozone and picked up two new rotors, and a pad set. The GT rotors
are 25 dollars a piece, and the pads were only 15 bucks.
Tom