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Posts posted by SBCA96

  1. Interesting comment on wagons. 5 or 6 years ago on one of my business trips to Japan, I was talking cars with the sales manager of the foundry we were working with. He had just bought a station wagon, as it was the "cool" thing for 30-somethings without kids.

    Well .. look at the sales of the Dodge Magnum, Pontiac Vibe and Toyota Matrix.

    They just dont call them "station wagons" now, they call them "crossover vehicles".

    The name change doesnt change what they are.

    Those "SUV" vehicles are just jacked up station wagons.


  2. Considering the rarity of the Silver Anniversary cars and how far automotive technology has advanced, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of these cars if it was priced fairly.  Any issues related to the blower installation could be rectified, I'm sure.

    Do you know if they used a Paxton blower? If so, then Paxton might be the place

    to start as far as finding a solution. If they dont want to touch it, I bet that the

    http://www.pcmforless.com/ place could fix you up.


  3. My understanding is that the Silver Anniversary cars were a bit problematic mechanically due to the supercharger installation not well matched to the computerized nature of the engine.  The electronics of the era simply weren't sophisticated enough to deal with the forced induction.  You could always take the drive belt off the blower and drive it that way.

    Wow, no offense, but that blows my mind. Perhaps it was the electronics that the

    Avanti Motor Company used in the car, but two years prior to that car being made,

    GM was ripping up the road with the Buick Regal Grand National. Granted it was

    a turbo car, but still forced induction and computer controled. I would say that an

    '88 would be a good year to get. GM had some problems with the 700 R4 trans &

    had solved them by mid 87. Earlier Avantis would be damned with the same bad

    shifting and early failure that the pre-87 1/2 700's GM cars had. As for the engine

    issues, I had never heard of that. Was it belt related, or just computer? I know

    of a guy that does "miracles" for the Impala club :


    The guys sware by him. His buddy does performance chips to order. I was going

    to have him make one for our 1986 Camaro IROC.

    In a quick search I found these:




  4. I have a '63 Avanti that I purchased new.  It was a daily driver until about 5 years ago and has about 360K miles.  It's rest period began because of power steering leaks, and I really don't think I want to continue to live with the recurring leaks.  I am considering going to rack and pinion and would appreciate any input.  Is it a good idea, or not?

    Rack & pinion has its advantages, but since it wasnt originally on the car, it wasnt

    considered during the design of the suspension. The BEST way to go on your high

    mileage Avanti would be to rebuild the front end, and replace hoses and steering

    parts, and keep the original setup. There was an article in a past issue of Popular

    Hot Rodding explaining the drawbacks of swapping a 2nd Gen Camaro to a Rack

    and Pinion setup. I dont remember all the little details, but they touched on quite

    a few areas that become affected. Studebaker has VERY long tierods, and the

    GM setup in the 2nd Gen Camaro has a center link. They were explaining how if

    you hit a bump in the road and the angle of the tie rods to the a-arms and.... well

    like I said .. its pretty complicated. If you make the swap, you are married to how

    well the place you buy from did their engineering. In other words, you solve one

    problem, and open the risk of new DRIVING problems, which are worse. The stock

    setup in your Avanti apparently worked VERY well to rack up all those miles, just

    bring all parts back to new, and enjoy another 360k miles. ;)


  5. Tom- I have seen the ads and will contact him. His s

    etup does not use a power booster and may help one of the problems with that alone. Thanks for your input. Bill.

    The upgrade to a dual master is pretty easy, if memory serves its the same Master

    as a late 60's early 70's Dodge. I made the swap already on my Avanti, shortly

    after I lost brakes totally on my 1960 Hawk when a new rear wheel cylinder blew

    out and was leaking. I lost the brakes coming off the freeway, I can tell you that

    its a REALLY bad feeling. There are a few people that have a dual master kit for

    purchase. The mod isnt really difficult to do on your own. The parts can be all

    picked up at your local parts house. The booster is the same as cars around the

    same time frame, I think Jeep used it and Dodge. Its also a fairly inexpensive

    part to rebuild. I would suggest keeping the booster, it just makes it that much

    more safe (since you have less pedal effort). Also, on a fiberglass car, there is

    going to be extra strain exerted on the pedel inside the car, instead of mulitplying

    it on the firewall. This means that cracking in the firewall could develop over time

    since YOU have to make up the difference in assist.


  6. At the very least read this article about how Sony has put a computer virus on CD's in order to undermind their customers computer security.


    Because the courts have given them free reign to sue, they now feel that they are ABOVE the law (which apparently they are) and they have started putting VIRUSES on the CD's they sell. So when their CUSTOMER puts the CD into their computer it loads a virus into their operating system that opens a "backdoor" for the RIAA to do whatever they want. It also undermines the security of the CUSTOMERS computer and leaves that "backdoor" open to any hacker that wants to use it. Think easy credit card theft! STOP BUYING MUSIC! This is the only way we as the little folk can show the big money hungery companies that they DONT have the right to do these things.

    Now MY story ....

    Well ... almost two years ago ... I set my wife up with a file sharing program called "Kazaa" which she apparently used to share some mp3 files ... I didnt know to what extent .. then I got a letter in the mail from my ISP telling me that the RIAA might be submitting a subpoena for my personal info .. Now almost two years later I got another letter .. telling me that my ISP got the Subpoena and that they had to release my info ... shortly there after I got a letter in the mail telling me that I had been sued, and lost as a "Doe" defendant ... then I had to call the Lawfirm. They told me they were going to sue me for over 700,000 dollars in copyright infrigment fines because there was supposedly 1014 songs in this "shared folder". I told them that the harddrive that was in the computer that the IP address was for, had died over a year before and all files were lost, then I told him that when I got the first warning almost two years ago and found out what might have been going on, I disconnected the computer. I can neighter confirm or deny it even happened. They said that the RIAA would be happy thats the case, but there is NO negotiating the extortion .. oops ... "settlement" fine. They offered me a $4250 (for over 1000 songs) or they would take my house. I decided to accept the extortion fine instead ...

    How did they know you ask?

    They have "moles" that sit on Kazaa and offer music for you to download from them .. then they log your IP address .. and make a "screen shot" of whats in YOUR folder to download from ... then .. they sue you ... this is just how "hurting" they are for money, they can pay people to sit at a computer to "intrap" people.

    I did lots of research on the web . and other then living in Canada ... no one has won fighting the RIAA .. they have been SO successful .. that the MPAA wants in now and is sueing too!

    After two years of lawsuits, file sharing has INCREASED, so sueing music lovers isnt working as they hoped. It is really a nice way to make money, this way the Music Industry doesnt have to bother making quality music, or lowering the unwarrented cost of a CD, they can just SUE people to supplement their sales. If they had fined my a couple hundred dollars, it would have sent me a message that what I "did" was illegal, but to make me pay a $4250 "settlement" fee, just makes me REALLY mad. Spread the word!!


  7. I found this for Ramblers .. I bet most is similar - Tom


    1963-66 Rambler Classic

    Marlin and Ambassador

    Hazard lights [ 4 way flashers ]

    The 1963 thru 1966 Classic Marlin and Ambassador use common wire coding and components for the turn signal and brake circuits. This works to your advantage to install the hazard light [ 4 way flashers ] on to any of these cars.

    The BOBKIRK Model 600 was custom wired as a dealer installed option for the 1966 cars, featuring correct colour coding to match the Rambler harnesses. The unit contains a 14amp fuse and three terminal flasher unit. Installation is a simple matter of attaching the mounting bracket under the dash [ you will notice the convenience of many pre-drilled holes, so you do not have to butcher your dash ] and attaching the corresponding coded wires.

    Similar non-coded BOBKIRK units without color coding may be utilized, as the unit only feeds a pulse signal into the wires. The color coding of the Rambler wiring harness is as follows:

    ORANGE rear left turn signal

    WHITE rear right turn signal

    YELLOW front left turn signal and left turn indicator

    BROWN front right turn signal and right turn indicator

    The RED wire on the unit goes to the BAT terminal of your ignition switch. The two remaining wires in the wiring harness are not affected by the modification [bLUE turn signal flasher unit, GREEN stoplight switch].

    The flasher modification could also be applied to other earlier Ramblers by decoding the harness for the turn signal wires.

  8. They do look nice!!!  I'd be very careful, though, because that is a radically different size... in an Avanti II if I hit a bump while turning (interference with the left front fender wheel opening, not good for the fiberglass or paint). I think I ended up with 195/75-15 on the front of that car.

    My dads 1969 Avanti II (you might remember it ;) ) also had trouble with the tire

    hitting the fender, it seems that a lot of Avanti II's had this problem. When I was

    researching this on the web, I factored that in, and found this article:


    Which states "The fronts will tolerate a 17 x 8" wheel with a backside

    dimension of 4.5" (13mm offset). The tire I used is a 235-45-17" Bridgestone"

    There is NO way I could live with my Avanti having 195/75 tires!! Thats the same

    size I had on my Hawk in H.S.! They are the same size as VW bug! ick! Also the

    original Avanti seems to have larger wheel openings. Not just in the filler piece

    that was added. The plan is to add a larger bump stop so that ride suffers and not

    the fender! (just in case). My 93 Camaro is running 17 x 9 with 275/40 tires!!

    Closest to original size is 205/75-15, I think. Your new tires are almost an inch and a half less in diameter, which helps clearance, but 1.6 inches wider (ie, they stick out about a half-inch further even with your current backspace, and extend inward a little over an inch further).

    Yup! MUCH wider, and looks sooooo sweet! I figured that I might need as much

    as a 1/2 spacer at worst case. Unfortunately the narrowest bolt on spacer (much

    stronger then a "bolt thru") comes in 3/4 inch - thats too much!

    What sort of lugs do your new wheels use?

    Standard acorn nut. I just reused the ones I had with the Keystones.


    Seems to me that any substitute rotor setup that would provide the needed clearance to the steering link would be essentially the equivalent of using adapters or spacers. Either method would push the wheel/tire further out of the wheel opening and risk fender opening damage.

    The damage is the downside, but I feel if I limit the travel, then I will save the

    fender, My Camaro has a very limited travel, sure the Avanti RIDES better, but

    the Camaro will put the Avanti to shame around corners. We cant have that!

    I am currently looking into SteelTech brakes, and also reusing the stock Avanti

    hub with a 1994 thru 2004 Mustang rotor. The Mustang uses a "floating" rotor

    so it slides over the hub, where as the Avanti rotor is pressed onto the backside

    of the hub. With the rotor in between the hub and the rim, it will act like a spacer,

    and with the original rotor gone, the stock studs might be the right length! Mustang

    rear rotors are the same non-vented thickness as stock Avanti ... hummm. Then

    again it WOULD be nice to have 12.9 inch vented Cobra front rotors. :D

    Have you considered using a narrower wheel & tire of the same design for the fronts?

    I considered it, but .. it doesnt exist! The 03 Cobra rim on which this design is

    based, is a stock 17 x 9. AFS offers them in a wider 17 x 10.5 and then a bit

    larger 18 x 9 and 18 x 10.5. I was quite happy to find that they made a narrower

    17 x 8 version ... I dont know why though! The 94-04 Mustangs can fit the stock

    Cobra rims without mods ... so who knows how long these rims will be around!!

    I looked for over 10 years for a rim that would "work". I have been going thru

    back issues of Turning Wheels and Avanti Magazine, but nothing seemed to really

    match the original hub cap like these - down to the concave center! The only

    otehr rim that I really though looked good on the Avanti was the BBS style rim

    they used on the 20th anniversary Avanti.


  9. No, I saw something about rims & tires for $800 but the link you provided did not take me directly to a set of rims, I think it went to a Chevy Caprice webpage, so I assume it was a set of Caprice rims.... 66-83 Avanti's use the Ford/Chrysler pattern; what ARE you driving these days? My fleet hasn't changed in years now.

    This is what they refer too as a "thread hijacking" - sorry "timepilot" .....

    It seems you have two separate threads confused ... here is the rim one with pics:


    They are a "Ford" bolt pattern from an 03 Mustang Cobra. 4.5 inch bolt pattern.

    The Hawk I gave away. I have the 93 Camaro Z28 and the Avanti and my 1995

    Impala SS Clone. My wife has her 1995 Camaro Z28, 1986 Camaro IROC (for sale)

    and a 1978 Camaro (getting a 94 LT1 engine and 4L60E trans). The Camaro and

    the Impala Clone both have over 200k on them. The heads have never even been

    off the Camaros LT1. I can not make the same claim for the Impala, since I dont

    have a whole history.


  10. http://www.geocities.com/hardimon01/Conversion.html

    The above article might be of use for you, there are three ways to go about getting

    the LT1 to fit your frame, one is the easiest (and what we are doing with our 78

    Camaro LT1 swap) to get the A/C delete pulley and do away with the A/C.


    The second is to get the now discontinued Corvette assessory bracket, and the last

    is to get the assessory bracket made by some aftermarket companies (not cheap).

    I would go with the LT1, its a VERY good engine. Even deleting the A/C to do it,

    the TPI is OK, but still leaves a lot to be desired, and the MAF system they had on

    the earlier cars is total crap. The later Speed Density setup is MUCH better for

    reliability, you would regret going with the MAF. I have 200k on TWO LT1's one

    in my 1995 Impala SS clone, and one in my 93 Camaro Z28. Both cars are still

    quite fast, and smoke the tires just fine. If you need a source for ANY GM part,

    then go with Dal at :


    What tire diameter are you looking for? I will measure these and tell you what

    they are. The responses on the Impala site have been VERY favorful of these

    rims, the total cost of $813 bucks can not be beat for 4 rims and tires, granted

    you would be paying shipping on top of that.


  11. Hello, Tom, et al,

    You guys are getting WAY out of my league on this discussion,  I really liked the Grant steering wheel conversion idea for my '70 Avanti II.  Bottom line, will it work for me?

    Sorry Paulie ... with time it will all become easy (or your head will explode! :P )

    I dont see why it wouldnt work for you. From what I understand, the Avanti II

    used the same steering column until the late 70's, when it got an adjustable one.

    My dads 1969 still used the "Studebaker" column, though if memory serves the

    1978 he had was an adjustable column. Looked like a Chrysler.


  12. What you are suggesting would mean that Studebaker just didnt care that AM radio

    could not be heard in the Avanti? That makes no sense. I have read that the hood

    material is the reason that the antenna is on the rear fender. Supposedly the use

    of a non metal material causes interferance with reception.

    From what I remember the AM works fine in my 63 Avanti, I dont listen to the

    radio much in that car though, it "gets out" maybe twice a year, at present.


  13. Having not been able to drive the car due to the clearance issues and the lack of

    long enough studs on the front hubs, I can not say that handling is changed. From

    my experince in the past of bubble tires (70-75 series) to performance tires (60 or

    lower) the difference in handling can be amazing!! I expect the car to feel as its

    going around turns on rails. As far as LOOK, yes these rims did wonders for the

    look of the car, and I feel have brought it out of "old school" into the more current

    trend. Also I have read quite a few articles on rims sizes, and the optinum sizes

    seem to be 17 and 18 inch for a car of this size and weight.

    I am interested to read what others think as well.


  14. Avanti Motor Corporation

    106 Temple Street, PO Box 158

    Villa Rica, GA 30180

    770/456-0900 Phone

    770/456-0989 Fax

    Dear Avanti Motors,

    Please, for the love of God, drop this new SUV that you are making under the name

    of Studebaker. Studebaker was ALWAYS a leader in ideas, not DEAD LAST. This

    concept is over. The SUV is dead. If you want a winner, then use the rights that

    Newman and Altman bought with the Avanti back in 1965 and bring back the Lark

    Wagonaire as a new model. Base it on a GM chassis, or create your own that can

    also be used on the new Avanti. Wagons are the NEW big thing. Take the styling

    of the original Lark, and update it. Keep the sliding roof, thats a concept that WILL

    sell in the right platform and a wagon is it. Witness the sales of the "Magnum".

    Whatever you do, stay away from Ford power. GM has the best powerplant with

    the LSx based engines. The Ford modular V8 is filled with potential problems like

    inadaquate spark plug thread contact, and lack of bearings for the cams. These are

    the kinds of things that will come back and haunt you later. Ford also has issues

    with cracking intake manifolds - not good. I like the over all styling of the new Avanti,

    but those concept rims have got to go. I just bought a set of 03 Mustang Cobra rims

    for my 1963 Avanti, and it closely resembles the original Avanti hubcap.


    You have a good concept with the new Avanti, keep the style, change the wheels to

    AFS Cobra knockoffs, and put in an LS1 or LS7 GM engine. That will bring the new

    Avanti the kind of attention it deserves, and the performance it hasnt had since the

    60's supercharged Studebaker versions!

    If you used a chassis that was "modern", but kept the same mounting points and also

    dimensions as the original Studebaker Avanti, you could also pick up "rolling chassis"

    sales to owners of 1963 thru 1983 Avantis that have rotted frames and good bodies.

    I hope this note gets to a desk that makes decisions.

    Thanks for listening,


  15. Not bad, steering wheel looks similar to the wheel that came stock on my '87. I've been modifying my Avanti's suspension, brakes, exhaust, wheels and drop spindles for that original rake look.

    If I had an Avanti II, I would be putting an LT1/6 speed or an LS1/6 speed into the

    car. The LT1 version would be quite nice, but the LS1 with more power, and a bit

    lighter, could help with handling. Did the Monte framed Avanti IIs use the spacers

    under the body (in between body and frame) to lift the body up like the Stude framed Avanti II's? If so, I would remove those and drop the car down that way,

    then you wouldnt be compramizing the ride and suspension geometry as with a

    set of lowering springs and drop spindles. Did you have a tech article in a recent

    issue of Avanti Mag?? If you went with an LT1, that would eliminate the carb zone

    on top of the engine and give more hood clearance.

    My dad has a 1969 Avanti II, we cut the springs to drop it down, and have regreted

    the fact since. It bottoms the suspension WAY too easy now. We also made a

    template to cut the front fenders to the same wheel opening as the early Avanti.


  16. Hello, Tom,

    I understand your frustration and feeling of aloneness (is that a word?)  I don't know anything about tires, wheels, rims, etc, so I can't help you with your specific topic.

    Well .. I ended up getting the rims, and I put them on the car, and posted pics of

    the rims on the car. So even opinions were appreciated! Sometimes even a

    simple "I dont know, but those look cool!" is better then not getting any reply at

    all. LOL!

    As for the steering wheel question, I used the adapter I bought for my 1960 Hawk

    to put a Grant wheel on the Avanti. Here is a link to the model I chose :



    Part Number: 1760

    Formula GT Wheel. Black stitched vinyl hand grip with silver anodized 3 spoke design. 15" diameter, 3-1/2" dish including styling sleeve.

    Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price: $144.87


  17. I posted a thread about my new rims and even though over 100 people read the

    post ... NO ONE replied. Thats pretty sad. If the members of this forum DO NOT

    reply to thread or post, the forum WILL die. The point of "our" area of the Net is

    to SHARE with each other. I belong to the Impala SS forum too, and those guys

    KNOW how to be social. A "newbie" posts and he gets 5 to 10 replies welcoming

    him to the forum. This is a NICE forum people, step up to the plate, share your

    views and lets make this Forum WORTH reading!!!


  18. All Avanti II's have the possibility of cracking the front fenders just above the

    centerline of the tire. The reason for this is that the Avanti II was raised in the

    front to "level" the rake by Newman and Altman, the pair that bought the rights

    to the Avanti from Studebaker. When they raised the body, it left an even larger

    front wheel house opening, so they added a "filler" piece of fiberglass. You will

    notice that the Avanti II fender above the tire is "thicker" then the original Stude

    Avanti. This added filler, tends to hit the top of the tire on a turn/dip, due to

    the exaggerated suspension travel on the Studebaker framed Avanti. I find it

    quite odd that an 87 GM framed Avanti would do this too, but its very possible

    that the track is wider on the GM frame then the Stude frame. This would put

    the rim/tire package out closer to the fender and allow it to contact. This can

    be solved by using skinny tires (ick) or by modding the suspension with taller

    rebound bumpers so that the suspension "bottoms" instead of cracking a fender.

    Personally I would rather be punished from the mistake of hitting a dip too hard

    by being jarred in my seat, then visiting the body shop for fiberglass work!


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