silverstude
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Posts posted by silverstude
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#9, the one in the SMN, still has the suspension & interior mods, so I'd say true
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You could also mount the plate, using rings, on the lower core support. When you're stopped it will remain vertical. At speed it's tucked under the lower valence. Doesn't look too bad.
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Probably Item #3, since the front suspension was modified for better handling at the Salt.
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Ever check with Hagerty Insurance?
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November 28, 2016
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Didn't they make trucks there also?
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The pull handle is located on the floor rise of the drivers side, passenger seat. It runs thru the rise and lays on the floor, goes under the rear panel, thru the gas tank compartment, then down to the trunk floor and is hidden under the carpet.
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Is the website avantihouse.com still viable?
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While you're working your way through the wiring problems, you may want to go to your local NAPA or even Home Depot and get a can of CRC Electrolytic Grease. Disconnect every wire from its Significant other, put a dab of that grease in and reconnect. It will enhance the connectivity, prevent corrosion, dry connections and make life very nice, especially for light bulb sockets. You can't go wrong with it...
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If there's no lip rolling under the fender, then it is definitely weaker. Might just flutter in the wind turbulence when driving at speed. I can't comment on how the bodies of an 83 were manufactured, but the lore is that by 1983, he factory did some of its best work on these cars. The seams were tight, tolerances close and very professional fit and finish. Hard to believe there wouldn't be any reinforcement behind the fender
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Nice. You'd wonder why it was parked to begin with..
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.......... and change the timing and carb jetting.
Interesting that all this can be done without causing any mechanical grief.
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That's R-2353, right? Looks like it's mostly intact...
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The hood-mounted strip appears to be a different cross section than the one used on the cowl.
Jim,
That cowl strip is important. I recall hearing somewhere, that the cowl section of the wx/strip was allowing hot underhood air to bleed by and get sucked into the cowl air intake..... warming up the interior. It's important that it seals correctly..
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Check this info page... http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/repavIIMC.html
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Put an R2 in it. ($$$$) ( not being cynical )
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WayneC... Your photo is exactly like the one I have. The air cleaner base drapes over the side of the carb and allows that large cleaner element
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Check your messages..
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I still have the original from RQA0381. It has NO snorkels.
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From the photos I have, each of those 4 switches are just pressed into the console. Probably have a plastic locking tab to grab the side of the hole. If you wrap a piece of masking tape around the end of a putty knife, use that to protect the wood. Then try and slip the keen edge of a penknife between the putty knife blade and the underside of the switch. These are polarity reversing switches. You can find them in a lot of places. Yours may have been a bit more proprietary in 1990, so I'd start looking at McMaster-Carr. If you find something that looks and works, pass the info on...
thx
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Might be a bit late, but here's a 1970 RQA type
http://www.studebaker-info.org/DSCN2469m.jpg
You can see the bottom of the bracket. The belt adjustment is made from a piece that's bolted to the front of the exhaust manifold. There's another pic around with the bracket on the bench. Will try and dig it up..
.....and the dig was successful, but not the pic I thought... You can see the attachment point
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I believe Dennis Paul has seen it first hand and can tell you more about it.
Thx, I'll contact him
Replacement vent flaps question
in 1963-64 Avanti
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From my past experience, The control cable knob moves almost effortlessly, so they close with a slight interference, somewhat diagonally. Too much interference would pinch the rubber in the duct and make moving the knob tougher.