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silverstude

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Posts posted by silverstude

  1. Just some $.02 I have some notes on. Some older correspondence between myself and the factory indicated that the Edelbrock 500 CFM (1403/1404) is jetted for performance from the factory, while the 600 CFM (1405/1406) is jetted for economy. However, I don't know what the differences would be if they were installed on the same engine

  2. A couple years ago, a conversation with an Amsoil sales person (Studebaker owner) indicated that their Universal Trans Fluid could be used in a Toyota as well as an Acura or an Infiniti. I bought a case, but considering the penalty for a mistake, given the cost of these cars, never had the nerve to use it. Maybe it can be a replacement in a 700R4 or a PowerShift

  3. Working in a transmission shop for 31 years, I have seen in the last few years more specialized fluids for European vehicles. Until the mid '90,s when electronic solenoids invaded transmissions all we stocked was type F .The came along DEX 111 and Mercon. And from there it has snowballed. No whining from the BMW, Mercedes,Volkswagon folks. I had to run to the BMW dealer to get fluid for a late model, 2 1/2 gallons was over $$ 175.00 our cost!! Some of the autoparts stores have begun importing the Pentosin brand, much more affordable. Lou Cote

    The premise of proprietary trans fluids has always amazed me. What Makes one oil different from the other (Toyota vs Nissan) and with many American units, you can substitue Dexron for the original....

  4. You can use a Ford style starter relay and mount it somewhere away from the excessive exhaust heat. Bolt the starter cable up to it and then to the starter solenoid. Move the Ignition switch wires to the Ford unit and you'll never have a hard start again..

  5. on a 350 SBC. I want to remove it, but there are 2 sizes. The listings are for corvette 350 and a smaller one for a 2 barrel engine. I know the 70 supposedly had a Corvette 350/300, but my exhaust headpipe is only 2".

    Has anyone gone thru this before?

    thx

  6. Your 69' was painted with Lacquer, about 6-8 coats and each coat was hand sanded between applications. When new, looked like you could fall in it. The primer was a standard red clay colored lacquer primer (NLA) and sticks to the fiberglass pretty well. When removing the lacquer for a repaint, you could (carefully) use a razor blade, but some nicks are inevitable. Glazing compounds can still be used on lacquer based primers, so it's not a hard job, just a bit tedious.

    If you had to remove it, then sanding would be the only option.

    Sanding will allow glass fibers to stand up and after the car was completely devoid of paint, it would be varying tones of ash gray depending on the density of the resin mixed with it. To recapture the fibers, you'd have to heavily epoxy prime the entire car, block sand it smooth, then apply sanding primer, 2-3 times and again block it to make a uniform surface. After that comes the paint, either acrylic one stage or base/ clear, two and three stage.

    If you're looking to touch up lacquer, it won't be easy to find something that will be compatible. Many modern solvents are too 'hot' and will curl the lacquer. You could try Acrylic, but a custom mix would be costly for a quart of stuff you may only use 2-3 ounces of.

    My 1970 came with a color called "Emerald Green Metallic" and while neat looking for a few years, was a bit loud with the yellow/black houndstooth interior. It only lasted about 4 years before I painted it silver.

  7. Thanks Lou,

    Again, things are smoothing out. Just a new paradigm that has to be worked through. One unfortunate item is that the old backup drives from my PC cannot be seen by the Mac, so ever slowly and carefully, using a large thumb drive, things are getting moved over. The Apple Migration Assistant relies on networking the systems, but the network board on the PC is what went south. Just another workaround to deal with..

    RJ

  8. Hi Carl,

    thanks for the tips. It's been a few weeks now and my initial frustration has been dealt with. You were correct regarding the Text/Edit and I've made some customization changes. The best tool is the TextWrangler for what I do and it's been working pretty well. Also had to add a couple lines to HTML files. ( and, there are thousands of files...) but will work things in as time goes by.

    Still have to replicate a work flow that is quick and efficient. Desktop links to underlying directories is a concern. I don't like having to duplicate an image file to change it's name when the size is reduced, but 'google is your friend' when it comes to asking for help..

    Can't wait to start dictating emails, ;-)

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