silverstude
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Posts posted by silverstude
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Anyone know his email?
thx
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Hi all,
To many of you this will seem like gibberish, but I hope there are some "Cognoscenti" out there..
Background:
) My 7 year old PC (64 bit, Win7) lost it's network capability..
) Tried all avenues to regen the network to no avail. Both wi-fi and RJ-45 do not work..
) Tried a PCI internet card and no luck (see above)
) No exact replacement motherboards available...
) New motherboards will use Win10 but I will not ..
) So, I thought the answer was to get a new IMAC. I have an extensive Unix background and presumed the familiar field would be great...
) Had issues getting the large amount of PC backup data available to the IMAC but that's not the problem right now...
) I have to maintain all those web files......
) Tried a simple update using the text editor on the IMAC....
)) the file was transferred to the website using the recommended FTP app...
))) When you view the file on a browser, it errors out because it has alien characters in the 6 lines of text.....
)))) try http://www.studebaker-info.org/aoai/aoai174class.html and view the 'page source'.....
....calling the Apple Help line wasn't productive (not unexpected)
Do anyone of you own an IMAC and know about this stuff??
Thanks
Bob Johnstone
www.studebaker-info.org
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This didn't show up the first time...
Here it is again
The last I had was
wfhenderson at yahoo dot com
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I did mine back in the late 90's and if memory serves me correctly, the exhaust pipes have to be tweaked to go thru the frame, a new rear motor mount is required, (which is where I found that GM used some metric bolts on things). My shifter came out of a 97 Camaro and was installed on a trans tunnel floor which had to be fabricated. After that the exhaust pipes were wrapped with Thermotec to avoid frying the shifter cable.
Since I was using an R3 airbox, a hybrid mount had to be made for a Lokar TV cable, plus a unique piece of throttle linkage.
I also went to BowTie Overdrives for help and they were great to work with. They produced a kit to make everything work like a clock. The car was placed on jackstands and a new TV shifter spring was installed. A transmission pressure gauge was attached and it was run through the gears at specific RPM's to check shift points. Everything was noted and a call to BowTie was made, after which they advised on TV cable adjustments. You need a specific TV pressure range to make the shifts properly. Beyond that, the transmission was modified to have the lock-up only occur in 4th, plus put a switch on the dash to activate it or not..
An auxiliary oil cooler was added ( due to paranoia about heat) ......
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Not the number you need, but if you can't open old MS Word docs, install the Apache OpenOffice software and it will take care of that issue. The software is free and proven. ( then send me the parts lists you have!) :-))
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There used to be a Loktite product on the market that would renew stripped lug threads. I tried it and was amazed at the strength..
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If the puller hole has been stripped, why not get a "bottom tap" and make new (larger) threads... then use a larger bolt? Grease on the tap can capture most cuttings, the rest when the wheel is off...
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At the top rear of the vent window frame is a small rubber covered piece, which has a small rivet (or two) keeping it in place. The part buffers the window from contacting the metal frame, at its up-most point. Obviously the rubber is thin and goes away... Is this part available? Any alternative?
thx
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........About the 63RQ-3623
Yes, thanks.... however the chassis number has no "Q" in it... This has always fooled a lot of the newby-owners and many oldie owners who aren't into this stuff, that much. The old AOAI rosters have a lot of body tag entries that were sent as serial numbers....and they printed them! Go figure..
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You can add R4541.
Thanks, looks like a great car..
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The Due Cento had red lens in the backup light position which operated as the taillight, stop light and turn signal since the taillights were dummy lights made of aluminum and painted red to simulate taillights as it was the prototype.
The car was run with and without the lens in place. Earlier runs in and later runs out. The purpose was to relieve pressure. There are also larger holes cut into the inside of the trunk lid to allow more air to pass through on my car.
Bump!
Also, weren't the parking light holes in the front fender used as an air pass thru for the supercharger oil coolers?
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http://charlotte.craigslist.org/bar/5555917951.html
If someone hit him in the rear, then why aren't they paying to fix it?
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You can get that effect if you use Coil-Over shocks. The extra spring power boosts the rear up a bit. Could just be new rear leaf springs also.
The question was posed regarding the seller because the serial number was missing and the reply I received when my email was returned was ".....why?".
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I used to own R-5011, a round headlight 64. Ed is yours a round square?
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come as close as anyone can to a COMPLETE listing of surviving Studebaker Avantis...
Thanks.... and will stay at it. The one big help would have been if the AOAI and SDC would have taken up on my suggestion to require serial numbers on classified ads. That alone, would have been a big help, but ....deaf ears, you know.
Still go to some of the large meets, taking pics and noting numbers..... If you ever see any cars at local shows, try and get serial # and pass it on to me. There are a couple Avantians who regularly go out of their way to do this and are a great help. Obviously, there are quite a few owners/investors/collectors out there who don't belong to any organizations.....
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That Avanti was restored by Nemesh Solanki and sold with an R3 engine. Someone took out the R3 drivetrain and installed a SBC, then tried to recover what they initially paid for the car. Probably a nicely done car, but why didn't they put another Stude engine back in?
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What comes to mind here is having an open hood, caught suddenly by a high wind, causing the attachment point to flex. No experience in this area here, but those rivets suggest a steel frame under the bolt-to plate. Seems to be strong enough!
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. In 2012, it had 115,K on it...
http://www.studebaker-info.org/avdb2/avantirqb/81qb3260/81qb3260x0912/81qb3260x0912ae.jpg.
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Lou, check your PM's... Thx
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Many thanks..
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....New Lenox, IL. Used to own (2011) a turquoise 63 Avanti. Anyone know of him?
thx
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You can use a dental mirror and flashlight to see and judge the condition of the bolts/threads. The nuts are 3/8", I believe. Small wrenches are available. Super penetrant oils are Kroil, Seafoam, etc. PB Blaster will work well, but some say it should be cleaned off after using. I've had my door off/on a few times for painting and can't remember it being a big deal, but there was something about getting the spring back on ...
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I've used the Deltron paint system and have concluded that they (Blake) waited too long after priming to spray the base coat. If you miss the window to spray the color coat, then you LOSE the chemical bond AND if you don't reprep the primer, then you compromise the mechanical bonding of the paints as well. If this was the case, then no wonder the stuff flew off in sheets...
Transmission Oil Cooler Questions
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
The usual motive for doing this is that the cooler in the radiator cooling coil had a leak and was bypassed. Regarding the cooling capacity, the radiator would always be at 180+ and would keep the trans fluid at radiator temp, which may not be the best situation. Don't forget the Stude engines develop a sludge problem area in the rear water jacket over the years and the temps go up..
Moving the cooling to an airstream depends on the cooling capacity of the device. If one of those Hayden types, they are fairly good at their job, using the engine fan to pull air through it before the radiator. IMO, it would keep the trans fluid temp below engine temp, even when at a standstill.